Battery no charge

[Cadillac Jim]

Rated "M" ... for Messy.

It looks like the alternator is a wee bit more long than wide, so turning it sideways lets it just barely come out, pulley first. I wonder if they teach that in Goodwrench training?

[rockfangd]

That is how I do it.

[winterset]

Thanks all. I removed the access plate and that is all i can do for now. I am thinking of putting in a new GM regulator. The alternator was replaced many years ago with a new Delco, but only has 5k on it.

[KHE]

Thanks all. I removed the access plate and that is all i can do for now. I am thinking of putting in a new GM regulator. The alternator was replaced many years ago with a new Delco, but only has 5k on it.

Is there a starter & alternator shop near you? They can put the unit on a test machine and determine exactly what is wrong with it and replace the defective part.

[barczy01]

Put a new alternator in the car. I replaced bearings and brushes for years in alternators, get a call couple weeks or months later the no charge light is on.

[Cadillac Jim]

I'd go for a rebuild alternator - if I was the one doing the rebuilding, including picking the parts, using moly lube for packing the bearings, etc.

If the armature is too burned to be cleaned up with 400 grit sandpaper, go with a new armature. If there is physical damage to the field coils or armature due to debris getting into the alternator, go with a new alternator.

But, what barczy01 says; a rebuild is only as good as the parts and work that go into it.

[winterset]

Fixed!

Took the alternator out and took it to autozone where they tested it on a machine. The stat passed, but no volts were being generated. I took it home, marked the bolt position, and cracked it in half. SURPRISE!!

The brushes were burried in an oil like tar and it was so bad, i could only see one brush where the rear brush was pushed down into the slot and covered in grease. I cleaned out the grease, and sprayed the inside down with wd-40, then i used my air compressor to blow the liquid wd-40 grease out. Repeated till it was all clean of grease. I re-assembled, and was so sure it was fixed, i put it right back on the car where it worked right away. note: to hold the brushes down when assembling it back, i stuck a long finishing nail into the provided access hole in the back, and held the brushed down, passed the nail over them, then into the locking hole in the front.

I need to investigate where the tar is coming from, but it's probably from when i pressure wash under the car. I will cover the alternator in a plasic bag next time.

[BodybyFisher]

I have the exact same thing happening right now your post is perfect timing the oil cooler lines were leaking and the alternator heat sink is gunked up badly, I will pull mine tomorrow and report back but it sounds like its the same problem. Two weeks ago I got the message but after the car warmed up, the message went away. Two days ago, I started it up and the message didn't go away and the idle was bad as the volts were low.

[winterset]

bbf,I know you know this, but for others who might read this.... It is very important to mark the position of the alternator before splitting it in half. I used a red pastel to line up both pieces later for re-assembly. I would suggest after the cleaning, to take it to autozone rather than prior to the cleaning (like i did). My way was a bit of a gamble.

[rockfangd]

Thanks for updating.

I have changed enough alternators on these due to the oil leaking from the cam cover. They are actually very reliable alternators other than outside issues

[winterset]

I will think about fabricating a shield/cover.

[BodybyFisher]

bbf,I know you know this, but for others who might read this.... It is very important to mark the position of the alternator before splitting it in half. I used a red pastel to line up both pieces later for re-assembly. I would suggest after the cleaning, to take it to autozone rather than prior to the cleaning (like i did). My way was a bit of a gamble.

Haha, so true, Iv made the mistake over the years and learned my lesson. As a child when my dad and I rebuilt generators and starters he always marked the case.

[BodybyFisher]

I will think about fabricating a shield/cover.

If you have a leak at the cam cover seal, change it. I am afraid you will restrict air flow if you cover it, it needs cooling

[winterset]

If it is not too difficult, i will do it. Honestly, i never heard of it. I thought it was the case half, valve cover, or one of the others that required removal of the engine, or dropping the cradle.

Btw, i am in suspense if you get yours going. I wanted to say that there were 2 brushes in there (front and back) the front was 3/4" long, and the rear was 1/2"

[BodybyFisher]

Did you replace the brushes?

The most difficult part of the job is removing the cam pulley, you will need the correct puller/installer to do the job.

I don't have a good puller/installer or I would lend you mine. I need to buy a good one, the harbor freight unit is cheap and soft and not specifically for the NS.

I made an installer, here is a photo of it, that is a bearing from the harbor freight unit with washers, and M8-1.25, 8 hardness bolt, and a wide nut to get a lot of threads. The pulley went on like butter.

[winterset]

I did not replace the brushes. The Delco unit i installed many years ago only has about 8k on it. That cam job might be beyond my abilities right now. The alternator job was pushing it. Thanks for explaining it.

[KHE]

The pulley puller on the cam for the water pump belt is just a power steering pulley puller - available at any parts store for less than $25.00.

[BodybyFisher]

The pulley puller on the cam for the water pump belt is just a power steering pulley puller - available at any parts store for less than $25.00.

Thanks Kevin, I am thinking KENT MOORE J tool haha.....that is good to know, I can use the installer I developed above to install it. I just invited winterset to come to my house we can do the job together. I actually think I have a power steering pulley remover, gotta root through my tool box...I actually have the Kent Moore remover/installer tool on a list of tools to buy, insert big DUH here, haha

[BodybyFisher]

Easy fix!

[Cadillac Jim]

[airmike]

The last car I bought had no bulb in the check engine spot. I had a scan tool with me in anticipation of shenanigans. Only had 2 codes, one being bulb failure in check engine system lol. I feel a person should invest in at least a cheap tool, if they want to buy used cars. I also own a tech 2, since I keep several old cars.

[BodybyFisher]

I agree, all the neighbors borrow my code reader, and never return it, I need to keep a log like a library. A few months ago I needed it and went to the neighbor and asked him for it and he said, I don't have it....hmmm, I am pretty sure you do, my log says so haha.... yep in his garage... I really don't like lending its so easy to lose stuff

[Cadillac Jim]

airmike - the missing MIL bulb is your cue to go over the car verrrry carefully. Like, pull a wheel and look at the brakes, check the tires for bulges indicating a boot repair of a nail hole, drive through an OBD cycle and check the codes before you turn off the key, etc.

BBF - yeah, I once had a friend try to get a floor jack away from me like that. He drove an old Chrysler with a 440 in it and used it a lot more than I did in maintaining that car. I was the one that he arranged for his wife to call, when he was out-of-town, to deal with breakdowns. Once, it happened; she called and said that water was shooting out of the top of the thermostat housing. I said "No Way!" and drove over, and, sure enough, it had an aluminum thermostat housing, which had corroded a hole through the top. Fortunately, she had noticed it when she started the car in the morning and didn't move the car, and the local dealer had a new thermostat housing and gasket, exact fit, aluminum and all. Hose and clamp were good, so it was just a parts run and ten minutes, with a coolant top-off.

[BodybyFisher]

winterset, I ordered a brush assembly and both bearings from rockauto, ac delco and skf bearings. Cheap enough, and I figured if I was going to take it apart I should have the parts available.

[winterset]

BBF thanks for your offer with help on the Cam. I drove the car for the first time yesterday since Nov. boy, did i miss driving.

I would be curious of the length of the brushes. Again, advanced auto put the alternator on a spinning machine to test, and although a little cryptic, they were able to tell me that my voltage regulator was ok, but the alt was not producing voltage. There were 2 brushes, and the inside one was ~ 1/2 the length of the outside brush.

My brother drove in my car with me, and he commented that the car drove real nice. When i parked, i heard the air leveling system working, and I smiled. He was wondering what the burning smell was, and i told him that i spray the car down with wd-40 in the winter, and sometimes i get a little on the exhaust, and it burns off on the first ride.