James Woods Posted October 18, 2015 Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 Haven't drove my DTS in a while. Coming home in the cold last night with no heat. Pulled codes on dash. Only code is a history b0429. I went thru the resynch procedure for the actuators. No heat still. Today I pulled a few panels and checked actuators for movement. They all move but no change in temperature output. After letting engine warm up I checked the input lines for the heater core and 1 side is cold and other side is Luke warm while the radiator hoses are burning hot. So its what I dreaded. My best diagnosis is the heater core is plugged. Sucks for me. Anyone here ever done a heater core? Or pulled the dash? I'm off work next few days so tomorrow morning I'll be starting the job. Any help, pointers or advice would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 18, 2015 Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 B0429 Temperature Control #3 Rear Circuit Range/Performance The FSM says that this is the temperature control door. Whenever this DTC is set, the HVAC control module will attempt to recalibrate the door every time the key is turned on, and the DTC will go to HISTORY once the error is no longer detected. It goes away after 50 ignition cycles, or about a month. The problem could be a loose connector on the temperature control door or the HVAC controller, etc. Get rid of the code before you go to do a heater core replacement. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted October 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 That code is for the rear seat temp control.its also a history code. I removed the glovebox and checked that actuator. Its all good. Unfortunately the hoses to core are col . Meaning no coolant flow thru core. I'm in for a terrible day tomorro . No way around it, except for no heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted October 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 I found out the previous owner had used head gasket in a bottle to try and fix head gasket. I bought car and did head gaskets with time sert . don't people know that if its supposed small leaks in a gasket it will also plug small passages on heater cores and radiators. thankfully I replaced radiator during head gasket job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 I would try to backflush the core before replacing it - that should get the heat working again. I believe core replacement in that vintage requires the dash to be removed - a big job. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 I would try to backflush the core before replacing it - that should get the heat working again. I believe core replacement in that vintage requires the dash to be removed - a big job. I've been considering trying a flush. I guess the hoses need to come off anyways. If it won't flush through then I've already got hoses off. Just need a few hours to pull the dash assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 Do you have access to a power flush machine? If so, that would be the ticket. If not a radiator shop will have a machine that will backflush the core with hot water under pressure. I'd think that would get rid of the crud that's clogging it up. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted October 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 I'd hate to pay for a flush and have the 14 year old core blowout a end cap. I can buy a heater core for less than $200. It'll take about 5-6 hours for me to swap it out. We got rid of our power flush machine at work due to problems with leaking heater cores after doing power flushes. Some of the Mercedes are 50 hours of labor to do a core. And if we cause it to leak we do it free. I've done a few S500 cores and it takes 2 service bays and 45 hours minimum. 1 bay for the car and 1 bay for all the parts removed. I'd hate to be the customer paying $7000 to get heat.but that's the cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 I would try backflushing it with a garden hose - You won't be able to do any damage that way and you really don't have anything to lose. It is worth a shot at getting the core unuplugged vs. tearing the dash all apart. The thought of squeaks and rattles after tearing into a dash would concern me. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barczy01 Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 Add a bit of CLR to the core and let it sit overnight. Back flush the core and you should be fine. I did this to alot of the older blazers and it worked. 7K for a heater core in a car is just CRAZY. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted October 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 Spending 45 hours to do one sucks. U know how many jobs you could do and make $ on. Only get paid 50 hours for core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted October 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 Thanks for all the replies. It seems I'd be a fool to not try a flush 1st. It just that fix in a bottle got me here and was trying to avoid another bottle fix it. I'll give that a shot tomorrow as I've added a bottle flush to the coolant today. I wasn't thinking of the squeaks and rattles after a dash removal and install. I do Mercedes dashes often so I know those really well. But not knowing the Deville I'm sure to probably have something make noise to where it'll drive me nuts and I'll take it back apart to fix it. I've found that applying felt tape to anywhere the dash contacts another spot tends to keep it quiet. On a Mercedes basically wherever the factory had felt insulation we apply new tape on top of the factory felt. It keeps dash nice and tight and quiet. Since I've never had a Deville dash apart I don't know if Cadillac uses and type of insulation at contact points. And hopefully I don't find out and theethe flush does the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 I was under the impression that replacing the heater core was an easy job as it was behind the glove compartment is that not true? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted October 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 From everything I've seen its about centered in the dash just below the radio. For a Deville. Not sure about other models. But to honest I've talked to a few Cadillac techs and book time is 6.8, they say actual time us about 4.5-5.0. With my experience they think I should spend about 6 hours on it. With the hardest part being getting the hoses off the core between the engine and firewall with the A/C lines in the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted October 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 ***update*** Great news. After adding the cooling system flush I let car idle for about a hour then iI drove about 30 miles on the highway. After about 15 minutes of driving I started getting air that wasn't hot but warmer than cold. 15 more minutes and I have luke warm heat. And that's just adding the flush to the coolant resivoir. Tomorrow I'll drain the cooling system and hose flush it then fill with water and 2 bottles of flush. Thankfully temperature is staying above freezing for the whole week. Any heat is progress and that makes me feel all WARM and fuzzy !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 Once you let the chemical work, backflush the core with a garden hose. You will most likely restore full performance from the heater core. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 By the way, I have changed those heater hoses by the firewall, they were easier to change than I anticipated if you want to flush it Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted October 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 By the way, I have changed those heater hoses by the firewall, they were easier to change than I anticipated if you want to flush it Thanks. I been looking at them and just seem to be in a tight spot. I've got remote cable hose clamp pliers and that should make it easier. In swear just by looking at it, it looks like pulling the engine to get at the hoses looks to be a viable option. J/K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 I keep some pics showing the Deville dash and heater core. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 Picture #2....#30 is the heater core. Very long tubes....both go downhill....so hard to flush. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 If I were to try to flush the heater core, I would not take the hoses off the core at the firewall, I would take the hoses off of where they connect at the heater pipes, and connect hoses to them with an adapter and clamp both ends. Flush in both directions. Use garden hose, one on the water pressure side, and the other directed into a bucket or drum then reverse. If you can figure out the flow, reverse flush first. Run that until the water runs clear. Wanna get fancy, put a pressure gage in line and see what it reads as flush progresses. Is it tight in there, yes, but think of yourself as a surgeon, the results will be worth it. Remove clamps and hoses at 14 and 15 at the heater pipes. You may be able to remove the bracket #11 and 2 bolts #7, to pull up pipes that are on hoses on the other end to get some working room. Your heat will be outstanding Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted October 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 BBF thank you so much. I am going to look under hood and maybe try close to #16 and 18. I'll just have to use hose pinch pliers at hose #1. That looks easier on paper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 BBF thank you so much. I am going to look under hood and maybe try close to #16 and 18. I'll just have to use hose pinch pliers at hose #1. That looks easier on paper. That is another way to skin the cat! Good Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 If I were to try to flush the heater core, I would not take the hoses off the core at the firewall, I would take the hoses off of where they connect at the heater pipes, and connect hoses to them with an adapter and clamp both ends. Flush in both directions. Use garden hose, one on the water pressure side, and the other directed into a bucket or drum then reverse. If you can figure out the flow, reverse flush first. Run that until the water runs clear. Wanna get fancy, put a pressure gage in line and see what it reads as flush progresses. Is it tight in there, yes, but think of yourself as a surgeon, the results will be worth it. Remove clamps and hoses at 14 and 15 at the heater pipes. You may be able to remove the bracket #11 and 2 bolts #7, to pull up pipes that are on hoses on the other end to get some working room. Your heat will be outstanding You beat me to the posting - this is exactly what you can do to make the job easier. Also, if you can use hot water to flush with - it will do a better job of unclogging the core. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 The 2000 and newer Deville DTS heater hoses are different than earlier Northstars. Kinda go in at the same area as the flywheel.. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.