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James Woods

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Everything posted by James Woods

  1. Congrats on cruising in a Deville again. Sounds like a multi meter is going to be your friend for the wiper problem. I'd rather be driving with a good engine and no wipers, compared to perfect wipers and sitting in driveway overheating. Lol.
  2. My truck is a 388, it's an evolution of 379. Just the old school square look. Not too much of the aero style. The truck only has 280k miles on it. I did receive all the previous maintenance logs with it. I just follow the factory recommendations for the services. Annually you need to have a trucks get a department of transportation inspection and then you get a sticker to put on the side of the truck. I'm sure there are programs out there to manage the business, but with car hauling it's a little bit different than just hauling a trailer and either getting unloaded at a dock or just dropping trailer and picking up another. Of the 9 cars I'm capable of hauling it seems to be that only 3-4 would be for the same customer each trip. Some trips that my brother runs all 9 cars are for a different client. I'm just following my brothers business model and using the accountant he uses for the financial side. For the compliance side of the truck I am using a company that does it all. And they have 24 hour assistance, just in case there a problem at a weigh station or a roadside truck inspection, hopefully never for an accident. Any and all permits are handled through them. There are a lot more to running a semi truck then I ever imagined. To have your own company take the mental thought of dumb trucker and throw that out the window. It takes quite a bit to do this, being a company driver that's for the dumb trucker. To run your own truck you have to set up a LLC, then with the DOT you need to set up your own authority for each state you will drive in. I have mine assert up for eat of the Mississippi, if I go anywhere else the company told me out Tasha a few days to add other states. Plus more money. Then some states like Kentucky you need additional registration. Then there is fuel tax permits, know as IFTA. I'm just glad there are one stop companies to handle all the compliance stuff.
  3. Got my temporary drivers permit for my CDL. Took my first drive today in my used semi car hauler. It's definitely not a Cadillac. I guess from what my brother said who was riding with me it's a better driving and riding truck than his. It'll take done getting used to, glad I went driving it much, only when my driver is on vacation or maybe short trips in town to drop off or load cars. I bought a 2012 peterbilt with a 2013 trailer. Holy crud talk about torque. I short shifted because it was empty but never went above 1300 rpm.
  4. Be thankful we are not talking Maybach alternators .a few years back at the dealer I work at we had a Maybach 65 with a bad alternator. It was like 3 months out of warranty. The part was $12,000. Labor was about $2500. Maybach goodwill the alternator and customer paid for labor. It was a 275 amp that is shaft driven off a Jack shaft from the rear of the engine. It is cooled by coolant and bolted to the block and lubricated by engine oil. All those electronics and accessories in the car use a ton of power. I guys if you can buy a $250,000 car a $15,000 bill for an alternator is no big deal. But me I'd cry, then poop, then cry more.
  5. I'm lucky, here in Columbus Ohio we have a great rebuild that's local. I've always had then rebuild my own part instead of taking one off the shelf. Just dwells better to me too know I am getting my original part back, off close it's been tanked and cleaned. Normally I drop off in the morning and pick up later that day. I like that they replace all parts that wear, not just what went bad. I've heard that AutoZone and other stores only remove what was bad plus bearings. The last northstar alternator I had rebuilt it was about $75. The company is Hite Parts exchange. They also sell parts if you want to rebuild your own. Not sure if they do mail order rebuild bit for site they do sell the parts. Highly recommended.
  6. If your car has a cassette player there are cassette adapters now that stream Bluetooth. I forgot about those. I got one at best buy for $25. It works great. Downside is it only last about 6-8 hours till I need to recharge it. Just used a micro usb like my phone. Actually Wal-Mart had Same one less than $20. Made by Ion it's a ITR20.
  7. There is a wired adapter the PDX box and wiring connector for the CD changer input that's about $90. But I saw a neat looking Bluetooth adapter that does phone calls and music streaming that can be hook up through a aux input or it connects inline with the radio antenna to play through a radio station. I've had bad luck with the style that plugs into power port and transmits. I always seem to get static. But I can help but to think an amplified signal that is sent to radio by having the antenna plug into the module would most likely give positive results. But for $150 I don't want to be the tester.http://pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=1195&CategoryID=55
  8. I inquired at my local car audio shop and they were not sure if PIE still makes that adapter.. But Pac Audi makes adapters. And they make a Bluetooth adapter for the Eldorado that has Bluetooth streaming music support. Here is a link to to Pac audio website for the Eldorado and what products they make http://pac-audio.com/productSearch.aspx?Make=Cadillac&MakeId=37&Model=El%20Dorado&ModelId=1570&Year=1997&YearId=8
  9. I had a 6 volt car a few years back and I installed a 12 volt alternator then built a regulator/ resistor box to knock it down to 6 volts. Then I also used the 12 volt output for a modern stereo and also a power outlet to charge my cell phone.
  10. Halloj them all, I have for years had trouble getting the charge to work well on my CAD 50 ser.62 (6volt DC). Spring-15, I bought a 6volt AC generator (alternator) from powermaster performance in the United States. It has built-in regulator so it's just plug the single cable (one wire operation) to the battery, and disconnect any other cords. It basically looks like an original generator and it takes only 10 minutes to restore to the original if you want it. It produces 53 A at idle up to 64 when I lathes. I've been running all summer without problems. High beam, Deluxeheater, kupefläkt mm in the same gång.fungerar perfect. I recommend anyone who has the same problem with the charge to install an alternator Much easier than building on the 12volt. Good Jul.Bosse
  11. I used Google translate and this is the best I can get for the members here like me who cannot read Swedish
  12. Sorry to hear this. You can try car-part.com for an engine.I prefer to buy mine from a LKQ. With then you can get a warranty and also their warranty had an option to cover labor of the engine fails. So then your not paying labor 2 times even though the engine is warrantied
  13. I had in my older Deville an adapter that connect to my CD changer input. It basically made that an aux input. From there you could use a 3.5mm Jack to input or a Bluetooth adapter that puts out to 3.5mm PIE made the adapter. Think it was a model GM10-AUX . Think that'll do what you want
  14. Wow. That must have been a high school kid that is related to someone high up in the dealership that did the oil change. Doesn't seem like anything a experienced mechanic would do.
  15. The amount of hacks that do hall work and create more problems than what they started with. Of they just flat out ruin good reusable parts. It's a shame and those mechanics should have all tools removed from their possession.
  16. I checked my car by sitting inside it, then put my viper alarm on valet mode. I locked my doors then opened the door and the factory alarm went off. So you are correct, when using my viper remote to lock and unlock my dos it arms and disarm the factory alarm. Not sure on the Cadillac but most factory alarms are simple and go off if the door is opened/unlocked without using the keyless entry or the key hole on the door. If the door is unlocked by just lifting the door lock knob then the alarm goes off. The only bypass that was done was for the pass key system. They used a newer style bypass where I didn't have to forfeit a key for the bypass box. Which I like better because on the older bypass methods where you had to keep a key in the bypass module then the car can be started by a screw driver since the factory anti theft always see a key of the correct signal to allow remote start to work. Or a knowledgeable thief would just find the bypass box and yank your key out and drive car away. One time I had a shop actually recommend to just have dealer program a blank key that wasn't cut but was programmed so that couldn't happen. Oh I forgot also a bypass for the onstar, or maybe that was for my stereo. I know stereo need a Bose bypass and then each speaker rewired directly to my amplifier. Since I had to rewrite everything I did a separate amplifier for my mid and highs instead of using the head unit to power speakers
  17. I installed standard struts and adore shocks on my dts. I just used radio shack resistors. I cut the wires at the strut and separated the 2 weeks inside the insulation. I soldered the resistors from 1 wire to the other. Some people have unplugged the connector up under the engine compartment and just stick the resistors into the plug, but I prefer knowing the soldered connection will not ever come loose. The resistor is a 4.7k ohm 1/4 watt
  18. When I had a viper remote start and alarm installed on my dts the installers disabled my factory system. Best bet is to stop and ask a car audio shop to do it. I'd avoid the best buy alarm car audio center. They just seem to follow directions from the internet to do installs.
  19. I own a snap on modis and like it. But I've also acquired a scan tool made by launch, it's called a dia-gun. It's very impressive especially for the price. It does all domestic Asian and European model's. The software for each brand is almost a complete copy of the manufactures scan tool. It's very amazing. It can write to modules and code them. I paid less than $800 for my tool. If you own more than 1 brand of car or do work on other people's cars I recommend it. Not sure how they get the software without a lawsuit because the vw,Benz, Porsche and Ford are dead ringers for the dealer software. The screens options and other items are spot on. I've never used a tech 2 so I can't comment on that aspect.
  20. I use the torque pro app on my phone with a blue tooth obd dongle and love it. It's great to be able to scan with my phone and also get real live data stream. It was cheap. I think about $5 for the app and about $30 for the dongle. Not sure if it does air bag codes but it does do abs codes.
  21. I have used uv dye added to the coolant to find small leaks that are not visible. Just go to any auto parts store and get a bottle of yellow dye, usually you can get a kit with the glasses and the ultra violet flashlight that will make seeing the dye easier. After adding the dye drive for a few days. Any where the coolant leaked either as a liquid or as steam will leave the dye behind as a tell tale sign. Look at the obvious places, like the radiator end tanks. Heater hose and connections. Coolant crossover That should make it pretty painless to find your problem. As body by Fisher stated if there is a small crack or leak anywhere as soon the coolant gets out to atmospheric pressure it will turn top steam due to lower boiling point. At 15 psi a 50/50 mix boils at about 260-275 degrees F. With no pressure coolant will turn to steam at any where from 195-220 degrees.
  22. It seems very true that towards the end of a model of car how all the little bugs are worked out and perfected. Then a new model comes along and the little quirks all over.
  23. A few things can happen by wedging the breaker bar. The worst is the head of the crank bolt can snap off, it a would a similar situation to over torquing it. Or if the engine turns backwards there is a chance of loosening the crank bolt. That's an easy fix. But I hate broken crank pulley bolts.
  24. If it snakes through anywhere it might work to connect the new came to the old top pull it through. Or tire a string to the old cable so the string can pull the new one through
  25. I do like the movable coils on the earlier north stars. On my 2002 2003 Deville it's one coil pack for front bank and one for the rear. All I can do is move the whole pack and see if the problem moves to the other bank. Glad it worked out easy and cheap for you
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