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Won't get out of 4th gear


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...The two huge problems I ran into was one of the axles was seized into the hub and I had a subframe bolt that was frozen.

I hope that those would not be issues as this is a 2008.

Will this work to support the engine? http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

That looks flimsy to me - there is no forward support to rest on the radiator support bracket to stabilize the assembly. Also, the lift rings on the Northstar are not in-line. If you look at my pictures of the support I made you'll see the two locations. My support structure was a copy of the Kent-More tool and I think I have less than $15.00 into it. I had the chain already.

Also, I don't have access to a welder. Can a tranny jack be used as is?

I used one of the existing supports but needed to fabricate the other three. The verticle pieces are so the trans. does not slip off the jack. You could probably use a piece of plywood and some clamps or even bolts through the plywood in a vertical direction to trap the transmission.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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1999 and below Seville, Deville, Eldo you can pull the motor and trans out of the top, I have done it many times. Jeff you did the right thing, just let someone else handle it and you won't have to waste a week or so of your time.

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I agree with above. I have dropped the subframe while supporting the engine and dropped it out through the bottom. Not too easy though

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Well, the wife and I were standing over it Tuesday evening and she asked if I was sure that I wanted to do this. I told her that any enjoyment of a project like this was no longer as I hate have having to lay under the cars reaching up into obscure places.

Caddy_Grill.jpg2008 DTS
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Well, the wife and I were standing over it Tuesday evening and she asked if I was sure that I wanted to do this. I told her that any enjoyment of a project like this was no longer as I hate have having to lay under the cars reaching up into obscure places.

I hear that. In my case, if it were not for the seized axle and the subframe nuts, it wouldn't have been nearly as bad of a job. I was into the repair for $420.00 in parts and supplies but if I paid to have it done, it would have been $1800+

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Jeff, if it helps, i think you made the right decision. This sounds like a miserable job, and it probably would have been an unhappy several days or weeks for you. Save the money on the smaller but still expensive jobs, and preventative maintenance. Sometimes, these big jobs are more than we want to do and too often they turn into bigger jobs than we thought. Some diy's just don't know where to draw the line, and these once enjoyable satisfaction projects ends up consuming them.

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This whole ordeal just irritates me. I've taken such good care of this car and keep having expensive repairs. This car has always had Mobil1 Gold 15k oil with Mobil1 EL filter. The transmission fluid was changed 20k early. When there were stone chips, she got repainted. When the headlights were showing some age, they were replaced at $900 a pop. When the fog/turning light assemblies started showing some age, they were replaced as well. I was even anal enough that when a couple of the little push-in plastic retainers on the plastic radiator cover broke, I bought new identical ones from the dealer. When the carpet was unable to come clean it was replaced, front and rear.

My only problem now is that the leather is showing its age and the drivers seat appears to be breaking down.

Caddy_Grill.jpg2008 DTS
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you are very anal like me. It is hard though.

I know the feeling about obscure places. Especially when you know right where they are and there is no easier way to get to things.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Jeff don't despair ,when that clip came off , which had to be a once in a lifetime thing, and the transmission pumped all the fluid out till it wouldn't move any further, that was it for the transmission. I am very surprised it lasted this long.You should have planned for a rebuilt shortly after that. You should be good to go after this because you take very good care of your car. That being said freak accidents do happen .Good luck and keep enjoying those Caddy's!!!!

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Question for those experienced with this transmission system. If that clip were purposely removed, could that line hold in for a while (few months) before popping out?

Caddy_Grill.jpg2008 DTS
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Question for those experienced with this transmission system. If that clip were purposely removed, could that line hold in for a while (few months) before popping out?

I wouldn't think so - the line pressure would blow it apart in short order. Even if the line stayed in by some luck, it would be impossible to prove the dealer broke it. I broke an engine oil cooler line retainer on the STS when doing the engine R&R back in 2006 and the line would not stay in. I thought I was going to have to buy the whole fitting for the radiator but the local parts store had the retainer clips by themselves for far less money.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Believe it or not buy I think it could stay in, but not for long. It has to be the right amount of pressure at the right time and pop there it goes,

I would think a good flowing system that is tight may not blow off right away

But a blockage, spike in pressure, or excessive heat can be all it takes.

Thats just my opinion

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I once had the oil cooler line loosened to the last turn at the radiator, on the input side, when my 1997 ETC was two years old. I caught it on the way home and put four quarts in, and another two when I got home. I called the dealer about it in the morning and asked for a tow, and they told me to drive it in, about 15 miles. It took 10 quarts but I drove in. They had a guy with a mop ready and he followed the car, getting the oil trail a few feet behind the car.

I got a good grilling about any knowledge I had about my car and "oil problems" that I put a stop to with a stern silence and a raised index finger. I pointed out that if there had been engine damage we would be "having an entirely different conversation" and demanded to be told what had caused the massive oil leak. And I was told.

This all happened the day after an oil change at that same dealer.

Over the years that I went there for service, I was aware of one service manager and possibly two techs that were fired for such things. Since they made these things right, and they were otherwise excellent, I always recommended them. My dad was a small business owner, a jobber wholesale brake, spring, front end, shock absorber, and muffler shop, with his main business doing service work for local GM dealers and occasionally others, and even some used car lots. I worked there summers through high school and learned how hard it is to get good help and keep them. Over time things stabilize into a good team but there is always some turnover due to illness, people move away, etc. That's why I sometimes tell people who have a bad dealer experience to give them three months and try them again.

But sometimes the problem goes clear to the top, or a culture develops that is impenetrable to the service managers. This is a very difficult situation to fix; the simplest thing to do is to fire everyone and start fresh, using background checks and references. But this means a rough period of breaking everyone in, going through initial turnover problems, etc. just like starting a new business. So that's rarely done.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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The corruption at this particular dealership goes all the way to the top, the owner...

:glare:

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Multifaceted situation. The dealership is owned by a guy named Keith Haney. The wife went to school with him and was friends with him until this fiasco. He owns a few dealerships around NE Oklahoma. The thing is though, he is also the owner of the Tulsa Raceway Park and many of us race our Camaros over there...So there is some politics at play

Caddy_Grill.jpg2008 DTS
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Multifaceted situation. The dealership is owned by a guy named Keith Haney. The wife went to school with him and was friends with him until this fiasco. He owns a few dealerships around NE Oklahoma. The thing is though, he is also the owner of the Tulsa Raceway Park and many of us race our Camaros over there...So there is some politics at play

Only camaro's ? Just kidding. I know nothing about him, but am very grateful someone is keeping the track open!

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Multifaceted situation. The dealership is owned by a guy named Keith Haney. The wife went to school with him and was friends with him until this fiasco. He owns a few dealerships around NE Oklahoma. The thing is though, he is also the owner of the Tulsa Raceway Park and many of us race our Camaros over there...So there is some politics at play

Only camaro's ? Just kidding. I know nothing about him, but am very grateful someone is keeping the track open!

Lol...All kinds of vehicles race there but my only friends that do are fellow Camaro owners in the OK Camaros club.

Caddy_Grill.jpg2008 DTS
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Sounds to me like the actual dealer manager is a hired hand.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Update: The car is fixed. I found a transmission with 39k off of an '08 in Texas at an LKQ. I mentioned it to the transmission guy and he called his LKQ rep. Long story short, this car with 132k on it now has a transmission with 39k in it with a 12 month 12k warranty.

So...Who will weigh in with their thoughts on extended vehicle warranties? My lender has a warranty division and I have contacted them. They will insure the motor, trans, heating, A/C, and fuel system for 4 years/60k at the cost of $2,841. Typically I have laughed at those warranty/insurance policies but hell, I've spent this in repairs over the last 10 months. What intrigued me is that they told me that this covers seals as well and I know that these motors will develop leaks from it's seals. They told me that they directly pay through all GM dealerships and my out of pocket deductible would be $100.

Thoughts?

Caddy_Grill.jpg2008 DTS
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Update: The car is fixed. I found a transmission with 39k off of an '08 in Texas at an LKQ. I mentioned it to the transmission guy and he called his LKQ rep. Long story short, this car with 132k on it now has a transmission with 39k in it with a 12 month 12k warranty.

So...Who will weigh in with their thoughts on extended vehicle warranties? My lender has a warranty division and I have contacted them. They will insure the motor, trans, heating, A/C, and fuel system for 4 years/60k at the cost of $2,841. Typically I have laughed at those warranty/insurance policies but hell, I've spent this in repairs over the last 10 months. What intrigued me is that they told me that this covers seals as well and I know that these motors will develop leaks from it's seals. They told me that they directly pay through all GM dealerships and my out of pocket deductible would be $100.

Thoughts?

Make sure the transmission shop replaced the retainers on the quick disconnect fittings or you run the risk of the same isue happening again. I changed the transmission fluid on my '05 Deville last weekend and intended to remove the lower line and let the engine pump out the fluid so it wouldn't make such a mess when I dropped the pan. I saw the fittings were the quick disconnect type and looked in the shop manual. Sure enough - there was a warning to replace the retainer clips when reconnecting the lines. I remembered the issue you had with the line coming off and since it was on a weekend there was no replacing the clips so I just loosened the pan and let it drip into the pan and then removed the pan cleaned the magnet, etc.

Many of those "warranty companies" are fly by night outfits that go out of business or they won't cover certain repairs, etc. after taking your money. I would find out how long the warranty company has been in business and get a list of what they do and do not cover.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I have one of the aftermarket warranties on my xlr. My thinking was that anything on that car is expensive and that made it more attractive. I would definitely do some homework on their history. As with anything you will find negative as well as positive experiences. I used Integrity Automotive Protection thru carchex and it has paid twice with no problems. They did send an adjuster by to verify work being done and needed. They have several levels of warranties to pick from. I would recommend them.

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60 a month 2 bucks a day isn't bad looking at it this way. Do you really want to hold onto the car for 4 more years? Ask yourself that question.

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