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Bought another caddy. I must be crazy


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oh ok. Called both. Thanks. I like the set for 60. they are exactly what I need

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Thanks all. I hope to hear back on the set.

I washed the car today and I must say the pearl white is a pretty color. The downside is that the only panels not damaged are the left fender and left quarter panel. This car has more damage than any car I have ever bought. I unfortunately will never try to fix the body, but rather just try to keep it rust free. I will post some pics of the car this week. I treated the seats with mink oil and must say they are plush.

This poor car was driven hard and put away dirty.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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If you do the "paintless" bit and pull out all the dents with a suction cup, a good detailing shop will liklely be able to handle the scratches well, premium paint or no.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Today I took some time to remove the left door panel. I was hoping to repair it but it is useless. It had the dealer repair but it failed, the clips were in the bottom of the door. The whole panel was held on the door with 4 drywall screws, every support is broken, and the brace by the handle is gone.

I never heard back from either seller on the used ones. I wish I had. I am on the hunt for something better than mine but I know it is difficult to remove them without damaging them. I am still ashamed that the door panels are such a poor design for the weight of the doors. I have seen this problem with the Seville, and the eldorado, but never the Deville. I have tried to find old stock of the panel and nobody lists either side. I hope to get lucky enough to find one

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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This kind of thing happens when some ham-fisted mechanic simply pries off the door panel, breaking everything. It happens a lot on any car. Keep looking.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Yesterday I took off the left front tire and trims to find the transmission leak and what I found worried me. The leak was caused by the upper transmission cooler line at the transmission. IT got damaged somehow. It was almost kinked right by the fitting to the trans. It must be it got yanked or something and it damaged the flare to the fitting. I cut out the damaged section and made a new section. Now it doesnt leak anymore. I also found something else I didnt like. There is a line that runs across the subframe on the driver side below the trans side pan, it was rubbing on the trans by the mount and must have rubbed enough to rub a groove into the trans. It isnt too deep but enough to feel it, also the same line was pinching the hose for the air pump between it and the transmission.

I am wondering if the TCS problems are related to the trans leak because all of the fluid was running onto the EBTCM.

I checked the main pump ground and the plug to it and both were good and clean but it still throws the pump stalled code.

this could be a wild guess but I am almost thinking that someone dropped the cradle and didnt unhook the trans lines from the subframe causing the lines to get damaged. Then just reinstalled it. This car has been full of surprises. I am just working on things one at a time to try to make it road worthy again.

It is very lucky that the trans did not get damaged due to the kinked cooler line. Amazingly it didnt blow.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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You may recall my year of grief, about 2007, when I had intermittent EBTCM problems that turned out to be caused by leaving the EBTCM connector when the cradle was dropped, trashing the EBTCM connector. A Goodwrench tech found that the big pink wire was broken inside the connector, and that both grounds were a little flaky and he re-did those too. Prior to this we had found that the connector clamp was missing and the connector itself is cracked, but OK once the clamp is on tight. Never a blink after the Goodwrench tech fixed the big pink wire and the grounds.

So yes I agree that it looks like someone dropped the cradle without disconnecting the proper brake and transmission lines. I'm sure that it happens all the time. GM once made a "connector kit" for the EBTCM connector to fix that one, but they were no longer available by the time I needed one.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I am familiar with the connector kit. At least the parts of it anyway.I will have to look into it. The Abs unit itself looks great but I feel the transmission fluid may have messed something up.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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If the fluid is OK and you have no driveability problems, the transmission is surely OK. The cooler is not necessary for most normal city driving. Unless the car was driven up long grades in the mountains or sustained high speeds, or special duty such as extended towing at highway speeds, you won't hurt it by driving without the cooler for a few months.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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sorry. I was saying I am thinking the leaking fluid messed up the abs unit.

I did not bypass the cooler. I just replaced the damaged section of the line

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I wouldn't worry about the ABS unit or EBTCM either. It's mounted low and well-sealed against weather and road debris. And, ATF is not harmful for wiring and connector plastics because these are internal to the transmissions, particularly electronically controlled transmissions like the 4T80E, do Dexron III/VI isn't likely to hurt the wiring or connector.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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thanks. The abs is not working either. it is like a dinging christmas tree on the cluster

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I looked back through the thread and don't see recent post of the ABS/TC codes. They will tell whether you have a wheel sensor or some such, or whether the EBTCM is causing the lights to come on.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Thought I had posted it. The code stated pump motor stalled. It sounds like it wants to work but doesnt sound right

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I remember, now that you mention the stalled ABS pump. That will turn on the ABS and TC lights and my cause the "Stability Reduced" and "Speed limited to <way to fast anyway>" message regardless of the status of the EBTCM. If C1243 is your only chassis code and there are no EBTCM codes or other codes traceable to the EBTCM like C1252/C1253, I would get the ABS pump motor working before I did anything with the EBTCM.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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thank you. I actually wish the ground wire was bad to the pump but it appears not to be. I will tear into it as soon as I can find some time

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I would try to bump the pump by putting a full charge on the battery and turning on the key repeatedly. It might free up. If it does, even just a little bit, flush the brake fluid and do it again.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Ok I pulled the code again. C1243.

It used to make noise when I cleared the code but now it just clears the code.

I have tried to manually activate the pump with my scantool but all it says is something about the BPMV relay off and it wont open the parameter to cycle the pump.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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If that is the only code that you are getting, the ABS pump is frozen up. If you can't free it up you are looking at a new or used brake manifold. That's a *very* pricey item new.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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The ABS units have to be a dime-a-dozen at the junkyards - with all the Northstar cars scrapped due to headgaskets, there should not be a problem finding a good used one in the junkyard.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Take a good 12 Volt lantern battery with you and check the motor.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Ok so today I removed the left wheel and splash shield.

I checked both abs fuses

Double checked the ground to the pump

ran a extra ground to the pump motor.

Just to be sure, the stud on the back of the motor is the ground and the red wire on top is the positive?

Tried cycling the key like 20 times.

I even tried tapping on the pump while resetting the unit.

Pump never kicked on once.

In order to replace the pump does the hydraulic system need to be opened?

I have yet to replace a ABS unit on one of these.

I was hoping for a seperate abs pump relay but could not locate one

Every time I cycled it I could hear what sounds like a relay clicking in the EBTCM.

I wanted to supply voltage to the pump continously and tap on it but cannot figure out how to be able to do it.

I really am not ready to replace all of the lines, calipers, etc...

The ABS problem and door panels are the only things keeping me from putting the car on the road. I just wish it would at least attempt to work.

Thanks all for the insight

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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