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Bought another caddy. I must be crazy


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My Deville gains about 12-14 minutes in 6 months

My seville gains 7 minutes in 6 months

PZM replacement was ridiculously expensive for the problem. Dealer pretty much told me even with a new one there was no gaurantee it would be resolved

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I'm not sure whether the PZM is potted or just in a sealed can. If it's in a can, perhaps surgery is possible. The first thing would be to determine what the specs are on a good replacement crystal. Most clock chips are 32768 Hz but some are different. And, the type of oscillator that the crystal is designed for differs. For something like a car clock, where the battery may be disconnected for extended periods of time, I would use a buck regulator into a NiCd battery that ran an isolated clock circuit, which has an output that is then buffered to run at whatever voltage the PZM board runs on. A couple of replaceable AA NiCd rechargeable batteries could run a clock circuit for months.

But I also think that the GPS should have its data packet available on the network, so that the car clock could set itself. Then, there's the current generation of clock radios, that set themselves using one of the WWV stations that NIST maintains in Colorado and Hawaii. But, if the GPS data (lat, long, time, altitude, position accuracy) was on the network, the "compass" in the rear-view mirror could set its own zone, the clock could set itself because it would know what time zone the car is in and whether DST is used and in force, etc. With a full-blown computer in the radio, including a HD and EPROM, all this becomes almost free to provide. The nav system already gets you a data link to that computer. It can do the rest, including set the compass magnetic North correction and the car clock, including switching an hour when you drive across a time zone.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Well some good news and some bad news

Tonight I took some time to get under the car to look at the air vent hoses to the air ride. the hoses were rotten, I replaced all 3 and the filter.

the bad news.

Someone pulled the fuel tank and cobbled the connectors to the fuel pump unit. On the unit side the purple wire was connected with household wire screw cap

2 other wires were held together the same

Then 4 wires were all twisted together. 2 on the pump side and 2 on the plug side. I am assuming it is the ground wires for the fuel pump and level sender. They were all wrapped together and taped.

I fixed all but the 4 taped together. I will have to do them once I verify what wire does what.

Also I am definately worried about the power draw on acceleration. I am worried it is going to leave me stranded. I am going to replace the positive battery cables and hope for the best.

Also figured out the rubbing noise on acceleration, It is the exhaust rubbing on the plate under the car. All of the rubbers are bad. I ordered all new.

I have to figure out what is making it drop power when accelerating asap, I am thinking when the engine is moving under load it is rubbing something or pulling on something

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Connect a fuel pressure gage to the fuel rail and tape the gage to the windshield and test drive it. If you see the fuel pressure drop below 42 psi on hard acceleration, the fuel pump is bad.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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well thats the thing, it does not lack horsepower, It has plenty of that power but it is the voltage that drops on harder acceleration

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I am thinking it wont resolve the voltage problem. I am thinking it may have a bad battery cable and under torque it strains the bad wire causing it to lose connection. It may be the one that runs along the bottom of the radiator

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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last night I repaired the wires to the fuel pump unit and replaced the fuel filter. It didnt change anything other than ease my mind.

Another thing off my list

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I am thinking it wont resolve the voltage problem. I am thinking it may have a bad battery cable and under torque it strains the bad wire causing it to lose connection. It may be the one that runs along the bottom of the radiator

Of the three positive battery cables, the one that runs across the bottom of the radiator support is the one that does not move with the engine. The other two are to the starter and alternator.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Well I am wondering if the one to the alternator is bad. It stumps me as to why under heavier load the voltage drops, Usually from about 13.9 down to 12v, but goes back up to about 13.9 after letting off.

Normally when driving during the day voltage is at 14.5 even with heat or ac on

at night it is 13.9 with all lights and heat or ac.

To me that is excellent.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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never actually thought of that. I will have to recheck the tensioner. Belt is new with alternator, but tensioner seemed ok when I installed the new belt.

Could I check this by revving it in park? Because it doesnt do it when I rev it in park

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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The highest slip forces on the serpentine belt are on the alternator pulley. The combination of electrical load and a little RPM is probably what is causing it to slip, if that is what is happening. I don't think that a slipping belt will throw a code, either.

Bad diodes are rare these days. Unless water or coolant has been in the alternator or it has been subjected to road debris or whatever, I would not suspect the diodes. There are six of them, I believe. The "generator" is serviced as a unit in the FSM.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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You never mentioned how many miles were on this ELDO ,I believe like the others I would check that tensioner first, then I would slip that belt off and roll that alternator and see if any of those bearings are rough. Then last tackle that easy job of alternator removal and have that sucker checked. That's my two cents worth!!

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well the eldo has 135k

alternator and belt are brand new. Alternator is delco remy not rebuilt

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Sorry I reread ,new belt with alternator, I hope it is the tensioner, because it could be fuel pump, you need to put that guage on fuel rail and check that pressure on the road. I believe that is what one of the member said ,must have been Jim. Good luck, these kind of problems are usually something simple!!!

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  • 1 month later...

Just to update this.

Car runs wonderful.

chevron techron and fresh non ethanol fixed gas gauge on first tank..

ABS pump is fixed. Pump was bad.

New brakes all around

This car is a classic example of why I stick with Cadillacs, especially this style. I love having another eldorado. This is my second one and it is much better than the first one. I will try to get a few good pics this weekend.

Only bugs to work out as of now is

Rear knuckle bushings eventually. Are creaky.

Radiator eventually, Tank on passenger side?? I believe. is swelled and has minor cracking.

Left window rattles when it is down all the way. Maybe guide.

Other than that it rides like new. Been very reliable so far as my new DD

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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The bushings in the rear suspension are molded into the castings and flex as the suspension moves. One they squeak, you know that the shafts are turning in them, so the bond to the inner steel insert is gone. But it's not as big a job as a lot of things because of the accessibility of the rear suspension relative to the front suspension.

A good radiator is about $200, I believe, and replacing one is a Saturday DIY job.

If window rattling is the only problem, yes, the guides are worn. But anything that old that you take apart will, uh, inspire you to fix a few things along the way to buttoning it up. The think about Eldorados is that people tend not to put back the push-in retainers, and the two big screws holding the door panels on tend to work loose, something that you will fix as second nature on the way in and out of the door.

PICTURES!!!

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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