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Bought another caddy. I must be crazy


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Well title nails it. I bought another Cadillac today. I am thinking of possibly retiring my Deville this year and found the right deal on a Eldorado,

I bought it with the intentions of small repairs and to be ready for the road when I am ready.

I bought a 2001 Cadillac Eldorado ESC. It is pearl white. Main reason why I bought it is because of the fact that there is no rust anywhere on it. The underside is mint. Body has some dents and dings but it doesnt bother me, as long as it is not rusting. The interior is in great shape. Shale. No rips or tears, not faded.

It is the newest vehicle I have ever bought. I absolutely love the body style of the 96-2002 eldorado.

I was afraid of the head problem or transmission issues but on the 52 mile ride home it did great. no trans or overheating problems. I am going to change all the fluids asap in hopes that I can prevent the headbolt problem. It got driven hard on the way home and handled it well.

Now for the needs list

It needs a alternator took 2 batteries to get it home.

brake lights came on during test drive and now wont shut off. I pulled the fuse for now

Turn signals wont cancel. I am wondering if brake light issue could be related with TSS.

on startup engine misses bad enough to flash the ses light and p0300 is shown but it clears up and runs fine. I am hoping just bad gas(car sat for awhile).

exhaust does not smoke but does stink of nasty gas when on gas.

Took 3 quarts of oil to get on the stick.

Coolant has very minor leak at upper radiator hose. No funny smell at all in reservoir.

Overall I love it and could really use some insight as this is my first northstar with all of the emission parts. Should I worry about the head problem or should it be ok? That is my main worry.

The best thing I love is the improved RKE. it has same type keys and remotes as my deville and seville, but the remotes are different internally. I love the fact of the horn confirmation and the extended range.

Please feel free to give me all the insight possible as this will be fairly different to me. Thanks to all in advance. I will post more pictures another day. the one posted is not mine but it pretty much nails it

post-12985-0-44088400-1393209017_thumb.j

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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The brake lights constantly illuminated may just be a bad brake light switch retainer.

First Northstar with all the emission parts?? Are your others missing the catalytic converter or other emission parts?

Maybe keep the Deville as a winter car?

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I meant the air system. my 96 and 97 dont have the air pump and diverters, etc... I use the Deville as a DD but am up in the air on what to do. That is likely what I will do. Both my seville and eldo are in beautiful shape. Wish I could say the same for the deville

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I would change all the fluids, check the belts and hoses and replace as appropriate, run it down below 1/4 tank and refill with top-tier gas, and drive through that tank at least halfway. That should fix the miss on startup.

I suggest that this first oil change be with 5W-30 Mobil 1 or perhaps that less expensive GM synthetic blend oil. The idea is that you will need to get out the sludge and free up the rings a bit, and the best oil you can get will help get the job done quickly without additives. That should reduce any oil consumption to acceptable levels or stop it altogether. If it stays clear on the dipstick and has no musty smell, you can wait for the OLM or your regular oil change interval with this first change.

The first order of business is the alternator. I would clear the codes, drive it, and chase the alternator based on the CURRENT or fresh codes. It could be something as simple as a slipping belt or a wiring harness connector, or a bad battery or engine ground or cable connection to the armature (one of the three big red battery cables). The next thing is the stoplight switch. Given those, you can clear the codes again and work through with priorities as suggested in the FSM.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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thanks.

I know the alternator is bad. It will be the third one I have had go bad in this way. it puts out good when it is cold but as it gets hot it wont charge anymore.

What about the chevron oil. The EOS 5w30. should that be suitable to help clean out the engine.

Also going to get a bottle of chevron techron and fill tank with good gas. Scantool showed cylinder 4 misfire today. better than when I first started it.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I don't know anything about the Chevron oil. So long as it is very high detergent, and has very few impurities like waxes and light hydrocarbons found in dino oils so it doesn't contribute to sludge and such, has low ash, etc. it's ideal. If the Chevron oil is a synthetic or synthetic blend, recommended for high performance cars with long oil change intervals, it should fill the bill just fine.

Yeah, a can of Techron can make that bad old gas part of the solution, not part of the problem.

If the alternator works OK when cold but quits when hot, it may just need brushes or have an air flow problem, or have a bad internal regulator. Perhaps you could rebuild it and get back the OEM quality. I've rebuilt a lot of alternators in my time, and I never had to do more than one per car. With good parts and a clean, well-lighted work area, it's an easy job, too.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Thanks. I have had great luck. Am I to assume I can get the alternator rebuilt then? I cannot find a listing for the voltage regulator itself. just the whole alternator

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I would put some marvel mystery oil in the gas and oil. If your radiator needs to be repaired, remove it to make the alternator job easier. Sometimes it's less and definately easier to get a rebuilt alternator from GM rather than replacing brushes, and the voltage regulator. Once coolant and voltage are repaired, inspect brake system and suspension for safety, drive it around locally, then if all seems safe and sound, try a short WOT.

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Sounds good., I just have to work out the kinks one at a time.

I do have another question. Would a TCS 1243. Pump stalled. Cause a service stability code?

The Traction, ABS, and Service stability are all on.

GM FAN FOREVER

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Yes, a stalled ABS pump will cause ABS codes and the ABS light on the dash to light.

Usually alternator rebuild kits are the best way to get the brushes and regulator. I don't know if AC/Delco makes a kit for your alternator. On Rock Auto, I see rebuilds for on the order of $100 and even the AC/Delco reman is just under $200. A rebuild kit would be at least $50. But I don't see a rebuild kit listed. I found an aftermarket kit for $99 but I don't see a listing of the parts in it so I don't know if that kit includes AC/Delco or other OEM quality parts. The web page is http://qui-quote.com/unit-q81-27-11-q82-26-11/

The stalled ABS pump may be due to a bad ground, a bad connector, or a bad fuse. There is a special ground on the back of the motor that goes straight to the engine block (or possibly the chassis) that *must* be good for the ABS pump to perform well. Power comes through two big red wires to the EBTCM, so check those in the EBTCM connector. Logan or KHE may have some ideas on freeing up the ABS pump if that doesn't do the trick. The ABS manifold/pump assembly is expensive so you want to get it going if you can, or look for a good one at a recycling yard if you can't.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I hear it on cycling the key on but it seems to run for shorter than normal. I was just curious if it would cause the service stability message?

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I would have to check the FSM to see whether the ABS pump cycles when you turn on the key. If the C1243 is a HISTORY code, perhaps it just happened once when the car was started up the first time after sitting for years, and if you clear it, it won't come back.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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the code is current. comes right back after being cleared.

On a positive note I ordered a new alternator, plugs, wire kit, fuel filter, oil and filter.

I am going to try to tackle things one at a time. Car sat for about 11 months, just started occasionally and moved around.

I am hoping the alternator job is like the older northstar but I am not sure

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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to update this. some good news

I exercised the abs pump with my scantool and cleared the code. all 3 lights went out and did not come on during drive.

Engine is running much better other than one cylinder. I am going to fill the tank and run a bottle of chevron techron

going to change the oil and filter tomorrow and try to wash it. Sadly it has more dents and dings than I can count.

I am only down to 2 codes

B2711. Passkey related

p0304. cylinder 4 misfire

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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well just thought I would post a update on the eldo. I am calling it a work in progress. I must say this car has been neglected a bit.

I cleaned out the trunk, installed a new power antenna, and added a 12 disc changer.

I love the fact that the eldo stuck with the prewired setup for the cd changer. I happened to have a spare and it works perfect.

So now trunk is clean, antenna works great, and it now has a factory cd changer.

If only the weather could make up its mind I could get the belt, alternator, and coolant changed.

The more I run it the better it runs. I will post pictures once I get it washed and the weather clears up.

I also found 2 other things different from the 90s era of the E/K series.

It does not have the trailer harness in the trunk.

Also it does not have the front suspension sensors and the passive struts. The ball is on the control arms but there are no sensors. I was surprised because I didnt know they changed that option. Must only be available on the ETC.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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The ride height sensors on the front are used by the ABS. The signal goes to the RSS module along with the rear wheel ride height sensor outputs. The RSS module sends road force information to the EBTCM to help with the ABS, TC, and ESC.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So some great news.

Got the theft system problem resolved. took 3 resistors, soldered them into the 2 wires under the dash. once I cleared the code no more problems. I might add I tried a new key before I did this and being it didnt help I just bypassed it.

Some not so great news. went to change the alternator, dogbones, and coolant last week and found a few things. Whoever replaced the alternator last time did a hack job. bolts on the back of the alternator were gone, and the main cable to the back was routed wrong and got chewed up by the cooling fan, and to top it off I didnt find out that the new alternator was bad until I installed it. I had a spare set of bolts for the rear of the alternator. The main stud on the new alternator was broken and loose. I will be reinstalling it thursday.

One by one I am resolving the issues and I hope once done it ends up being a decent eldo. Just have to figure out something with the driver door panel. I would consider it unrepairable and have found no listing or used one. I dont even care if it matches.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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To update.

Replaced alternator and pigtail. Charges good now.

Changed the coolant. Was surprisingly decent and correct coolant.

Changed the torque struts. They were so bad that when I took them out the rubbers fell right out.

Security issue is gone. Hopefully will never have to worry about it anymore.

Have to figure out tranny leak because that worries me. I am actually praying it is the cooler line that runs along the unibody next to the tranny. It drips about once every 5 seconds.

On test drive it rides much better. Still has a rubbing noise under load but is 100 times better.

Thanks for the help on the panel. I will look into it

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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rockfangd

I found 2 listings on craigslist for door panels. I don't know if they would ship or not, but one is a dismantler .

I used Ad Hunt'r and searched "eldorado door panel"

just out of curiosity what is ad hunt'r? you have to excuse I am not very good with technology

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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If the engine still moves enough to hit or rub on something on hard acceleration, either the dog bone bolts aren't tight or you have a really bad motor support under the engine.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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that is what I am thinking. either the rear engine mount or the trans mount. but it doesnt clunk when shifting. Dogbones are nice now

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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rockfangd

I found 2 listings on craigslist for door panels. I don't know if they would ship or not, but one is a dismantler .

I used Ad Hunt'r and searched "eldorado door panel"

just out of curiosity what is ad hunt'r? you have to excuse I am not very good with technology

ad hunt'r searches all craigslist ads. You can narrow the search regionally also. Sometimes you find dealers etc.. on there also, so shipping makes entire usa search worthwhile.

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oh ok. Is it on the craigslist website? I couldnt find it. I probably didnt look in the right place

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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