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Project: 1939 Jaguar SS100 Replica Classic Roadsters, LTD. "Duke"


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Neat. Is the Duke on front a sticker? Are your louvre openings on both sides of engine vented? Mine has slots molded into the sides but they are not actually vents / vented.

Bruce

2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing

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These are the new polished stainless steel hinges I found on Ebay at a boat store.Hole locations are a little different,but ,will work fine.I removed the installed pins,then machined new ones .Bought new hairpin clips at Hectors Hardware.Also,no standard washer would fit correctly,so had to make those also.Now I can simply pull the pins to remove the hood.Jag008.jpg?t=1397231247

Rick

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The louvres are open top to bottom.Like almost all chrome on the car,the duke emblem was neglected. We have cleaned some of it up,but much more to do.The wheel covers were almost not savable.The sticker in the emblem is ,I think,original.We carefully removed it,cleaned the emblem,then glued the sticker back on.One big concern is my winshield frame.It appears to be covered in chrome like tape.It's bubbled and has some damage,but really scared to pull it off to see whats under it.

Rick

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It will be interesting to see what the assy manual says to do to open louvres along the sides of bonnet.

The 39 Jag had a folding windscreen, so if you end up fabbing a new part it would be fun if it folded lol.

I think my previous owner put a jaguar logo over the duke logo; I'll have to see if it can be restored.

Bruce

2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing

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Beautiful! I love that dip in the center of the front bumper for the hand crank!

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Here is a high res scan of the Duke ad from 1984 with the order info (trimmed to just the car and info -- the top of the ad is several inches higher and reads "Classic Elegance":

DukeScan6000001_Trimmed.jpg

I would like to find those wheels -- mine has solid wheels with hubcaps. A new assembly manual was $15.

Bruce

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Cool pic above.My wife trimmed the Duke sticker because the edges were pretty rough and still not great.We007.jpg003.jpg?t=1397328604 might try to photocopy it sometime and see how it looks.My louvres look like they were trimmed out after they were molded.The bumpers are 1934 Ford or as I was told .008.jpg

Rick

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Ah - so the fiberglass vents probably need to be dremelled out or similar. I'll have to think about how to do that so that they look evenly cut & uniform. I was considering replacing the fiberglass indents with actual aluminum louvre panels -- just cutting a large rectangle out and putting louvre panels in place, then paint to match.

The Duke logo looks correct -- a blue oval with silver "Duke" lettering appears standard. I want to have a dash plaque laser engraved. I will look at doing a oval piece to replace the Duke logo.

My car has a jaguar there (a previous owner was VERY intent on getting jaguars on every part of the car)

DSCF0043.JPG

Yes, pics of the 1934 Ford bumpers front and rear show that divot in the design.

My windshield frame does not have that wrapping:

IMG_1465.JPG

Bruce

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Looks like I found the no high beam problem.I tested the switch on the lower column and it works fine. However,the wire that should go to that terminal is not hooked up and there is not an obvious candidate to attach to that terminal.Looks simple .....or not...So,the beat goes on..Nightmare001.jpg

Rick

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From the schematic, it's a 12 gauge W/Bl (white with black stripe?) wire. From your photo, I can't tell which device is the dimmer switch. I would follow the white-with-black-stripe wire from the headlights.

The wrapper on your windshield frame looks to me like a factory protective wrap that simply needs to be removed.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I have scanned in the Duke Assembly Manual and placed it online here. I will note that it looks better if downloaded to a file and loaded from a file than it looks in the browser, perhaps due to browser palette-ing.

Key info I was wondering about:

  • Step 55: the leaf spring instructions say disassemble the springs from a Mustang II, then use the smallest two leafs with the new spring. This sounds as if a single leaf for each side came with the kit.
  • Step 82: the lourve molding came with tape to make it look like it was cut out, but was not intended to actually get cut out. I still would like to cut mine out anyway.
  • Curb weight wet and fully equipped in the manual was 2,000 lbs. This is lighter than my car at 2,324 lbs. Mine has the optional dual sidewall tires, and a different (I would have said lighter) engine/transmission.
  • All the gauges should be VDO; mine are mix and match -- on mine whoever put in the 3TC engine changed some gauges at the same time?
  • Heater and defrost were standard (now missing on mine)
  • Page 45 -- the wood trim strips seen on the back and trunk of some examples were a factory option
  • The car could be put together 1) all chevette 2) Ford engine, Chevette susp 3) Ford engine, Ford Susp, 4) 2.5 Pontiac engine, Chevette Susp.

Bruce

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Oh good I'm glad you could access it. I ran the adobe optimizer (which I should have done previously) and that cut the file size from 93M to 20M and changed the link above to the latter.

Bruce

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My Duke Roadster is still stuck waiting parts for rear suspension:

...got the grommets for shackles,, still waiting on the perch rubbers, they should be here tomorrow. Based on suppliers Word

Bruce

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Seems Like we always have to wait for something.Just got off the phone with my stepson,who is an assistant manager at NAPA.They have everything for a complete tuneup except the plug wires.No big hurry on this anyway,but just figures.So anyway ,got the new windwings on.Machined the collar for the steering wheel.Got the mirrors on.Everything is so tight around the grille shell may have move radiator to see which wires actually go to the headlights.Should be white with blue stripe for high beams,but if they are under the dash,I'm not seeing them.

Rick

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I have scanned in the Duke Assembly Manual and placed it online here. I will note that it looks better if downloaded to a file and loaded from a file than it looks in the browser, perhaps due to browser palette-ing.

Key info I was wondering about:

  • Step 55: the leaf spring instructions say disassemble the springs from a Mustang II, then use the smallest two leafs with the new spring. This sounds as if a single leaf for each side came with the kit.
  • Step 82: the lourve molding came with tape to make it look like it was cut out, but was not intended to actually get cut out. I still would like to cut mine out anyway.
  • Curb weight wet and fully equipped in the manual was 2,000 lbs. This is lighter than my car at 2,324 lbs. Mine has the optional dual sidewall tires, and a different (I would have said lighter) engine/transmission.
  • All the gauges should be VDO; mine are mix and match -- on mine whoever put in the 3TC engine changed some gauges at the same time?
  • Heater and defrost were standard (now missing on mine)
  • Page 45 -- the wood trim strips seen on the back and trunk of some examples were a factory option
  • The car could be put together 1) all chevette 2) Ford engine, Chevette susp 3) Ford engine, Ford Susp, 4) 2.5 Pontiac engine, Chevette Susp.

Bruce, firstly, thanks so much for the pdf! :-)

In the case of our Duke, either there were no leaf springs which came with the car or the builder lost them at sone point during his build as he just cut the originals down ( in such a way that it would not pass a European annual road test.)

Don't cut your louvers out.... There is no way you will get them to look good ( We were going to do this but soon decided against it).... Your best bet would be to get aluminium panels made, with the louvres cut into them and then recess them into the fiberglass panels.

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Seems Like we always have to wait for something.Just got off the phone with my stepson,who is an assistant manager at NAPA.They have everything for a complete tuneup except the plug wires.No big hurry on this anyway,but just figures.So anyway ,got the new windwings on.Machined the collar for the steering wheel.Got the mirrors on.Everything is so tight around the grille shell may have move radiator to see which wires actually go to the headlights.Should be white with blue stripe for high beams,but if they are under the dash,I'm not seeing them.

As I recall the headlight wires run from the relays on the firewall in bundles, splitting at the front axle to go into metal spiral tubes and up to the light cases

Bruce

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Bruce, firstly, thanks so much for the pdf! :-)

In the case of our Duke, either there were no leaf springs which came with the car or the builder lost them at sone point during his build as he just cut the originals down ( in such a way that it would not pass a European annual road test.)

Don't cut your louvers out.... There is no way you will get them to look good ( We were going to do this but soon decided against it).... Your best bet would be to get aluminium panels made, with the louvres cut into them and then recess them into the fiberglass panels.

Good advice. That was my original thought as well - aluminum louvre panels placed in the fiberglass and painted to match, although matching gelcoat will be tricky. I would like to replicate the louvres on the top of the bonnet from original as well, and certainly no fiberglass form there. Why don't you fellows do up some new aluminum bonnets for us with louvres hammered in lol?

Glad the pdf worked!

I sent back to BRDracing to find any other crate 3TC engine options there.

Bruce

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Good advice. That was my original thought as well - aluminum louvre panels placed in the fiberglass and painted to match, although matching gelcoat will be tricky. I would like to replicate the louvres on the top of the bonnet from original as well, and certainly no fiberglass form there. Why don't you fellows do up some new aluminum bonnets for us with louvres hammered in lol?

.

We went for a full respray because of the fact that we would never have been able to match the gell coat and there were (how should I put this?) some areas which looked as though a panel had been in a fight with an angle-grinder.

A louvred aluminium (English spelling. ;-) ) bonnet (here we go again) was on the cards at one point but this rebuild is costing an arm and a leg and at the end of the day, we have had to decide what to change and what to leave as it is. It will have a hidden stereo installation, for example, which will vanish up behind the dash when the car is not in use.

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The hidden stereo sounds nice. I would prefer NO stereo in such an open car, but will leave mine.

I want to have a small laser-engraved plate just above the stereo done, where previous owner punched a hole in the wood dash to poorly install a jaguar emblem. The plate will say

"Classic Roadsters, Ltd

Duke SS-100

Fargo, ND".

Or similar. i also am on the lookout for a chrome dogbone radiator cap; your swallow of course is great in this regard. In general I want to get lots of the 'Jaguar' references off.

Oh I know a full aluminum bonnet is out of reach for good sense or economy, but would be nice. One feature I do think I can replicate is a leather bonnet strap.

Bruce

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One feature I do think I can replicate is a leather bonnet strap.

Funny you should say that... We are moving the 2 bonnet hinges, internally and will replace the 2 bonnet latches on the other side with a pair of leather bonnet straps, complete with tensioning springs. :-)

Sadly, progress has been slow this month, with one thing and another though.

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This plate was on a Marlene, but maybe the top script of Company name and second line, then a third line that says Duke SS-100 as on the cover of the assembly manual.

Mine doesn't have a serial number that I know of; I suppose only the factory assembled examples did?

Marlene_06_2012_13.jpg

More on this car: https://sites.google.com/a/dslextreme.com/marlene1989/

Bruce

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Bruce,

This is a link to the photo of my Duke's VIN sticker:

https://www.icloud.com/photostream/nl-nl/#A25oqs3qqHFti;AA3305C3-288B-459E-9BA7-5AA24FDBFD7F

Every kit supplied after 1985-1986 will have had one of these stickers, somewhere in the supplied paperwork.

On the subject of the bonnet straps, this photo (of a real SS100) gives a good idea of how it could look:

https://www.icloud.com/photostream/nl-nl/#A25oqs3qqHFti;D6AD4A51-9600-4FAE-AC92-F4AF273875D5

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