Project: 1939 Jaguar SS100 Replica Classic Roadsters, LTD. "Duke"

[Cadillac Jim]

I notice that Toyota cleverly arranged the manifold bolt so that it could not be mounted upside-down.

Have you thought about calling the people who sold you your new manifold and asked them about more ground clearance? Apparently the outlet is for a stock or rally car, not the SS-100 replica. Perhaps they have one, or at least the drawings, for one with 4" more ground clearance.

[Bruce Nunnally]

Variants of header systems for 30 year old discontinued engine lines are not as plentiful as one might wish. i think there are two designs out there. If the re-joined stock manifold flows properly above 4000 rpm I think I will be happy for now

[Cadillac Jim]

This will become more important if you get a rebuilt tuned motor, perhaps. If the repaired stock manifold flows as well, then you are done insofar as the exhaust up to the resonator, and the resonator back, are concerned.

[Bruce Nunnally]

It was warm enough to get the Roadster out, so I took it to lunch. It took a minute to start,

since it had not been out lately, but ran well. I went around the block to warm up a bit,

then a few blocks away to Taco Bueno,

Along the way people waved & commented. The Roadster gets a lot of supportive attention

around here.

The ground clearance is fixed but I am still careful to avoid parking lot speed bumps where

possible. No issues on the drive there and of course very easy to order from an open car.

On the way out of the parking lot a ripe acorn flipped off the front tires, over the wind screen,

and down the front of my shirt. I was surprised, but glad to find it was an acorn and

not something else.

Beautiful sunny day out, even if the temps here low 60Fs; hopefully we will have

more of this weather so I can get the Roadster out more often.

[Cadillac Jim]

Now you know why people wear a cap and an ascot when driving open classic cars!

[Bruce Nunnally]

Taking advantage of some 60F+ days to get the Roadster out and about. The shot with the driver door out of the frame is interesting -- one way to make an open car even more open! 

[Texas Jim]

Back in high school, my cousin had a Crosley Hotshot... Kinda like this one, but not in that good a shape.

No doors... no seatbelts... always ran it flat on the floor, but even that wasn't very fast...

We had a ball in that thing...

.

[Bruce Nunnally]

Hmm what appears to be a late t50 tranny for sale http://us.yakaz.com/posts/000bk2lt5q1i5lra?utm_source=MailAlert&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=MailAlert $250. This would notionally be a bolt-on for the tranny to replace the auto in the roadster, altho still would need clutch, hydraulics, pedals, etc

My feeling for now is to not start that whole project until another day. For neighborhood drives I lock the roadster in low (1) anyway.

[Cadillac Jim]

I think the $250 price is a little steep unless it is guaranteed, and the text says that the car hasn't run in eight years and "I'm not sure if it grinds at all because I haven't tested it." That's a $50 transmission (or, check your local recycling yard for a more accurate price for an as-is 85-87 Toyota transmission with I-dunno does-it-work). I notice that this guy apparently just put the same transmission up on eBay for the same price.

The T50 is not a common item to find used. Perhaps the $250 starting price with a rebuild might be an option to go to a manual transmission. But the rebuild kits are very pricey. And, you may need countershafts or gears, not just bearings, synchronizers, and gaskets. The transmission is just the beginning, too. You will need a bell housing, clutch, drive shaft, and shifter with shifter boot.

I've come to love my automatic transmission and have lost the lust for a 6-speed manual. Having both hands on the wheel is a big thing when you are dealing with any challenging situation, particularly surprises in traffic or on the road, like an elk chasing after his honey running in front of you on IH 80 in Nebraska, or seeing an idiot who wasn't paying attention out-of-control behind you trying to stop but with no prayer unless you get out of the way.

[Martin Monaco]

Hi Bruce,

I will get you the dimensions of the Duke rear leaf springs which we have just had custom made, but it will have to be on Tuesday when I next visit the workshop. :-)

[Martin Monaco]

Here is a photo of our Duke's new radiator cap (pre Chroming.)

[Bruce Nunnally]

I have been following your posts for a while from Holland as We have recently (November 2013) imported a Duke and have torn it down for a complete rebuild.

During this process, we have decided not to re-fit the front and rear chrome bumpers to the car and filled the holes for them in the bodywork prior to painting the car in period black.

If you are interested then please feel free to drop me an email

One other thing is that I was really not happy with the fake radiator cap which the Jaguar leaper mounts to and have made my own brass radiator cap which will go off to be chromed soon... I would live to send you some photos as this would be something which a local machine shop could reproduce fairly cheaply for you. ;-)

Great; thanks for posting. I threw the images over to google+ in an album here: https://plus.google.com/photos/111669618335209044868/albums/5988939491186131633?hl=en-US

to make it easy to link them back.

Looks like you are doing a complete refresh! Wish you could come do the same service level for mine.

[Bruce Nunnally]

Oh - by the way do you have the actual assembly manual? How does it say to make or source the rear leaf springs?

[Martin Monaco]

We don't have a build manual, sadly and the leaf springs on our Duke seem to have been Mustang ones, with one end chopped off, to shorten them and the cut-off end then just being held between two bars.

I will get you the dimensions , on Tuesday. :-)

One thing to note is that our Mustang based Duke seems to have a different chassis, although it certainly doesn't look to be any stronger than yours (Ours was supplied in 1987, by the way.)

[Cadillac Jim]

The base tools for leaf spring parts-making for rebuilding them includes, but is not limited to, the following (from memory of my dad's shop in the 1960's).

• A stock of leaf spring steel in various widths and thicknesses. The allow did not vary, apparently. It came in huge rolls.
• A "Big Dog" machine that cut leaf spring stock into shorter lengths for specific springs. It also punched holes for the center bolt, and wrapped ends of the leafs for the eyes.
• An acetylene torch and special anvil with 5-lb hammer to adjust the curvature of new and used leafs. The size of the eyes was also adjusted with heat, hammer and anvil.
• Assorted eye bearings, from rubber bushings with steel linings to sealed roller bearings, depending on the application, clamps, center bolts, etc.

You find all of this stuff in one place only in shops that service leaf springs.

[Martin Monaco]

I have an iCloud album which is turning into a scrap-book of SS100 Duke photos and is added to on a weekly basis.

https://www.icloud.com/photostream/nl-nl/#A25oqs3qqHFti

[Martin Monaco]

Spring length is 40.2 inch (102cm) , eye to eye, and we used a width of 3.1 Inch (8cm) with 4 leaves.

[Bruce Nunnally]

Thanks for sharing the image cloud -- looks like you are making terrific progress. Your suspension looks very similar to mine to me.

Great that you have the original purchase paperwork from Classic Roadsters, LTD!

Great custom touch here.

On the leaf springs -- I think mine are 2.5" wide, A=19.5 or 19.75", B=23".

So they are very much like 79 Pinto sedan rear leaf springs but 6" shorter in B. (Pinto/Bobcat was 19-3/4A 28-3/4B). (Mustang II Measured 21A 29B")

[Bruce Nunnally]

Spring length is 40.2 inch (102cm) , eye to eye, and we used a width of 3.1 Inch (8cm) with 4 leaves.

Thanks. The Duke arrived with leaf springs, and you had new ones custom made working from the originals? Would it be possible to give the A and B measurements of your leafs?

[Martin Monaco]

A and B are equidistant so the key is the curve, in my view and that dimension is not in your diagram.

[Bruce Nunnally]

I understand; however the spring shops want to know the width, and the A and B.

Based on your description, the original springs from the factory were as I suspected simply cut down versions of some existing car springs -- likely the Pinto/Bobcat or Mustang II cut shorter.

I would still like to hear the assembly manual instruction for how to create those springs!

I am excited to see more updates on your Duke. The Swallow radiator cap looks great.

[Bruce Nunnally]

The Roadster has an appointment with a local hotrod-and-body shop to consider the rear suspension refresh. Drop-off sked 3/31. Hopefully they can solve that issue then I can move on to other issues.

Linear Automotive: http://www.linearautomotive.com/classic-car-repair.html

[Bruce Nunnally]

Anyone rear Black River Falls? This guy has a paper copy of the Duke assembly manual. Would love to get a copy as a shop manual

http://nd.en.craigslist.org/cto/4348852362.html

[Cadillac Jim]

Wow! I think that the whole kit and kaboodle is an excellent deal at $4.5K, probably negotiable.

One possibility is to contact him and ask that he take it to Staples or FedEx and get the manual scanned to PDF and email you the PDF file.

[Bruce Nunnally]

If it were local or at least within reach then yes the whole kit would be negotable. I will admit to considering 1400 mile drive in uhaul and pricing upack transport ($1700)