93SixtySpecial Posted October 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Ahh, never even thought of that. Let me know if you find anything out. -Dusty- 2006 Cadillac DTS Glacier Gold Tri-Coat with 175,000 miles 1993 Cadillac Sixty Special Gold Mist with 185,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 I looked at the 1996 shop manual I have and it says, "If the vehicle's rear is high and there are are no DTCs, the mechanical portion of the exhaust solenoid could be defective." There are several pages of diagnostics in the shop manual. Many of which entail adapting a pressure gage to the system. If you don;t have the components to adapt a 120 psi gage to the 1/8" air lines, it may be worth a shot to throw an exhaust solenoid at it. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93SixtySpecial Posted November 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 Thanks for lookimg that up for me. Is one able to just replace the solenoid or is it an all or nothing situation with the compressor? Also, would it be wise to replace the compressor anyway due to corrosion? -Dusty- 2006 Cadillac DTS Glacier Gold Tri-Coat with 175,000 miles 1993 Cadillac Sixty Special Gold Mist with 185,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 ok listen. When you push the arm down (as in the car is loaded and needs to be raised)the compressor should come on to raise when you push the arm up(as in removing the load and it needs to lower) the exhaust valve should activate and lower the rear. Also there is a diagnostic solenoid and valve test in the instrument cluster on board DIAG. when you go to the RSS system go to outputs and push fan up on cycle all. then you will hear the compressor cycle, then the exhaust valve. it will continue to cycle up and down until you exit the menu. Very easy to do and if you hear the exhaust vvalve clicking it may be good but plugged. Do this and if it clicks I will post some pics of something you can try. It is well worth a shot and I have good pics GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 Thanks for lookimg that up for me. Is one able to just replace the solenoid or is it an all or nothing situation with the compressor? Also, would it be wise to replace the compressor anyway due to corrosion? All three components of the compressor (head asm., motor, & exhaust solenoid) are available as service parts - at least they used to be. The way GM is discontinuing parts, you never know. I'd be tempted to remove the compressor if you can't access the exhaust solenoid with it in the car and remove the solenoid and clean the mechanical portion and test it. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93SixtySpecial Posted November 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 Rockfangd, I had done the arm movement like you said, but it's actually the opposite of what you said. When the arm is up, this is actually a heavy load. The sensor/pivot point is mounted on the car and the arm is mounted ahead of it on the control arm. So when the vehicle is loaded the sensor will lower and the arm will raise. I did this and the compressor did run and when I went down to simulate a light load, I didn't hear clicking or any sort of exhausting. I'll try what you said about putting it in diagnostic mode and see what happens. KHE, it's getting really cold over here and I found a used entire compressor for $155 so I'm thinking I might just get that and throw it on. I've heard that the exhaust solenoid goes out due to corrosion and if it's bad then more than likely the compressor has a lot of corrison too. Is this correct? Thanks everyone for your help. -Dusty- 2006 Cadillac DTS Glacier Gold Tri-Coat with 175,000 miles 1993 Cadillac Sixty Special Gold Mist with 185,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 I've never had a compressor fail due to corrosion on any of the Cadillacs I've owned. $155 for a used compressor seems pretty steep. Since you need to remove the compressor anyway (to either replace the solenoid or install a used one or whatwver), why not remove it and inspect the exhaust solenoid? You might get lucky and fix it for just a little labor. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 My experience with a compressor is that the bolts are really hard to get at and I still have not figured out how to get it out after you get it loose. I have to replace my fuel pump and I thought about pulling it out when the tank is dropped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 I've never had a compressor fail due to corrosion on any of the Cadillacs I've owned. $155 for a used compressor seems pretty steep. Since you need to remove the compressor anyway (to either replace the solenoid or install a used one or whatwver), why not remove it and inspect the exhaust solenoid? You might get lucky and fix it for just a little labor. Lol my experience is just the opposite. every one I have seen fail is due to corrosion. and water intrusion. I would also be leery of a used one unless it has a warranty because it may have the same problem yours has. If you hear no clicking coming from exhaust valve it is likely the problem. I need one for my 96 Deville as it wont raise under heavy loads but under normal conditions the rear rides perfect. I found a mint 98 Deville at my local yard so I bought the compressor. compressor looked great but didnt work. When I disassembled it I found that the entire exhaust valve was corroded shut. The dead giveaway is if you remove the rubber hose from the exhaust valve you can look into the hole. if all you see is white where the hole is then chances are it is shot. The compressor I bought was seized up and the exhaust valve was corroded shut. It was the first time my ELC fuse ever blew. I reinstalled my original one. I highly recommend getting a compressor from another model other than the Deville, seville, or eldo. The mount bracket may be different but the compressor should be the same here are some pics hope this helps GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93SixtySpecial Posted November 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 Thanks for the pictures! I love the cat, by the way. Haha The only reason that I didn’t want to take it off and try to fix it myself is that I would more than likely have to get a part for it anyway and I would have to put it back up in there, wait for the part, and then do it all over again. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t mind the work, but it’s so flipping cold here and I don’t have a garage. Did you say you can buy just the exhaust solenoid or should I look for a used compressor assembly with a warranty? -Dusty- 2006 Cadillac DTS Glacier Gold Tri-Coat with 175,000 miles 1993 Cadillac Sixty Special Gold Mist with 185,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93SixtySpecial Posted November 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 This looks to be the same, am I right? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-BONNEVILLE-Air-Ride-Compressor-Rear-Suspension-Pump-Level-2522-/390448600154?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ABonneville&hash=item5ae88cd45a&vxp=mtr -Dusty- 2006 Cadillac DTS Glacier Gold Tri-Coat with 175,000 miles 1993 Cadillac Sixty Special Gold Mist with 185,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 looks right. of course just different bracket. the bonneville is located in the right rear, near the bumper GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brmurph Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 You can get a new one for a resonable price here https://www.arnottindustries.com/part_CADILLAC_yid6_pid35_gid749.html . They claim to be OEM . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93SixtySpecial Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Hm, that might be the way I will go. I plan on keeping this for quite some time and it has low mileage. If I put something used on there or if I fix the one I've got, I might be doing this in a few months again. I'll have to think about that one. Thanks for the link. -Dusty- 2006 Cadillac DTS Glacier Gold Tri-Coat with 175,000 miles 1993 Cadillac Sixty Special Gold Mist with 185,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 Hm, that might be the way I will go. I plan on keeping this for quite some time and it has low mileage. If I put something used on there or if I fix the one I've got, I might be doing this in a few months again. I'll have to think about that one. Thanks for the link. That is a great way to go. especially if you want to keep it for awhile GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 With the work involved, I'd go new also. I would suggest using the car for a few weeks to make sure it doesn't have any "Major" issues though. I wouldn't want to spend $200 only to discover a HG or transmission problem. I think you can just let the air out of the shock, and you'll just have a code till it's replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93SixtySpecial Posted November 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 I might do that because it looks a little ridiculous and it rides like crap with them pumped up all the way like that. I’ll buy it on Friday and let everyone know when I get it in. I did get the window switch for the car and swapped that out. All windows work now except the passenger window. Not sure if it’s the motor or what it is now. I haven’t even started testing to see if I have current or not over there. -Dusty- 2006 Cadillac DTS Glacier Gold Tri-Coat with 175,000 miles 1993 Cadillac Sixty Special Gold Mist with 185,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93SixtySpecial Posted November 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2012 I did some playing around and I can hear the passenger side clicking like it's activating to go up, but when I press down all I hear is a very faint noise that's hard to describe. I took the switch out and started playing around with it and it worked for about 5 seconds and then quit. I kept playing around with it for another 10 minutes and it worked again for about 5 seconds. I'm guessing it's the switch on that side that is also bad (I apparently have bad luck with switches). -Dusty- 2006 Cadillac DTS Glacier Gold Tri-Coat with 175,000 miles 1993 Cadillac Sixty Special Gold Mist with 185,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted November 7, 2012 Report Share Posted November 7, 2012 It may also be simply that the window is dragging in the traces, and the circuit breaker is shutting off the motor to prevent damage. With the door panel off, you should be able to tell easily. Are there any codes on the windows or doors at this point? -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93SixtySpecial Posted November 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2012 Nope, no codes for the windows right now. I really didn't want to take the door panel off so I was taking the lazy route. When it did roll down, it worked normally. It wasn't slow or leggy. -Dusty- 2006 Cadillac DTS Glacier Gold Tri-Coat with 175,000 miles 1993 Cadillac Sixty Special Gold Mist with 185,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93SixtySpecial Posted November 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 So I pulled the ELC fuse and after about a half day, it seems to have went down a bit. I'll check it again tomorrow to see if it has continued to go down. -Dusty- 2006 Cadillac DTS Glacier Gold Tri-Coat with 175,000 miles 1993 Cadillac Sixty Special Gold Mist with 185,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted November 8, 2012 Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 that may mean a small leak in the system. Does the car settle when parked overnight? GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93SixtySpecial Posted November 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2012 Nope, after 2 days of having the ELC fuse out, the car is still higher than stock. It's down from what it was though, which is nice. There is actually some movement now. When the fuse is in, they are pumped up to the max and there is no movement at all (I'm guessing because it can't exhaust any air and everytime I start the car it does its little 3 second test adding more air to the bags). I'm wondering if maybe the exhaust solenoid is partially stuck open (just barely) to allow some air to flow out, but not enough to lower the car when the compressor runs at every ignition cycle. But since it has been not pumping up with every igntion cycle, it's slowly going down. -Dusty- 2006 Cadillac DTS Glacier Gold Tri-Coat with 175,000 miles 1993 Cadillac Sixty Special Gold Mist with 185,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93SixtySpecial Posted November 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 So strange story... I had unplugged the ELC fuse and it was hanging still pretty high (about 2-3 inches above stock) for a few days. I put about 250lbs in the back (with the fuse still unplugged) and it squatted pretty bad. I put the fuse back in and the compressor started cranking away. With the 250 lbs in the back, it never really when back up. After I removed the weight, the ELC seemed to be functioning normally! It would pump up to the proper height and then stop. However, it seemed to lower too quickly after the ignition was shut off. BUT we got a storm the other day and it got really chilly and now it's having trouble keeping it inflated to the proper height. It seems that my problem did a complete 180 and now it's sitting too low. I know there is a chance that the exhaust solenoid can be stuck closed, but is it possible it can be stuck open or partially open? That's what it seems is happening. Oh and all windows are working. Woo hoo! -Dusty- 2006 Cadillac DTS Glacier Gold Tri-Coat with 175,000 miles 1993 Cadillac Sixty Special Gold Mist with 185,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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