brmurph

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brmurph last won the day on April 6 2019

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About brmurph

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  • Car Model and Year
    98 Deville Concours

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  1. Yes its for the 98 deville and also 2004 deville. Currently I am working on a EBTCM problem on the 98 Deville. I had it at the dealer and asked them to try and reset a c1255 code with a tech 2 as apparently a tech 2 will sometimes reset this code where other code readers will not. Its my understanding that a tech 2 will also read sub codes which apparently a c1255 has many. Anyway the charge was $180.00 for scanner time and still don't know if there were sub codes. If I can get a tech 2 for a few hundred I certainly would. Oh I also get the dreaded po300 occasionally and it sounds like the tech 2 would hone right in on which cylinder is causing this. If there would be a large learning curve I am not sure I would be interested. If I do decide to buy one where can I get one that is not on Ebay, amazon or craigslist (in other words non clone)? Any idea what a good price would be for the oem? As long as the clones work are they OK? Thanks.
  2. I thought there were a few conversations on this already but I was not able to find much while searching. Anyway I am thinking about buying a tech 2 but have a couple of questions. First is how technical is the tech 2, in other words can someone who has been a shade tree mechanic use one of these without a lot of research/training? Which one do I buy? Should I look at clones or GM's? Where should I buy it (ebay, amazon)? What is a good price right now? I was surprised to find the dealership no longer has a tech 2, does that mean there are a lot of good used ones to buy? Thanks in advance.
  3. I know everyone likes it when an old thread is brought back to life so here goes :-). I had this leak on my new to me 2004 DTS this week, I was kind of bummed as I just bought it and it puked out transmission fluid all over my garage floor. I thought well there goes a couple of grand on a tranny rebuild 😞 Anyway I purchased this seal/bearing Mikelawson mentioned above and so far it has fixed my issues. I am not sure if this is mikelawson's website or not but this is where I bought it https://www.fitzall.com/94125LB.php . Only time will tell but so far its been great and seems like a better fix then replacing the bushing even if it was easy to replace (which it is not). Just a couple of tips, where it says to use silicon use blue silicon as it will squish out letting you know the bearing is pressed in all the way (clear silicon not so much:-). Second tip is to go ahead and remove the strut as it is in the way and you won't have room to get a good swing to press the bearing in (I had to use a 2 foot 2x4 and a small one hand sledge hammer to get it in. Maybe I have just missed it but I am surprised this fix isn't all over the forums :-). I also purchased the install tool and 1/2 shaft that is already ground to the right diameter, shipping was supper fast.
  4. Thanks KHE and all :-). I will most likely give that a try at some point and post results, meanwhile I found a nice 2004 DTS (Nice but not perfect) with 44,000 miles for $5600.00. So far having a blast with it. I'll add a pic with Concours in the background.
  5. I pretty much always use premium unless I am on a road trip, around town I notice a big drop in performance using lower octane fuel (87). I guess I could try 15W40 Rotella (in Texas BTW) but one thing I forgot to mention in my other thread (guess I should go update it) is that it also killed my CAT (P0420), that being said I have not replaced it yet so now would be the time to try it :-).. I was kind of hoping KHE or Logan would chime in but I am starting to think not many people have experience with this bulletin except maybe the dealer. I might have missed it but I always wondered what happened to your Deville, I thought maybe it was too painful to talk about, now I know:-). BTW here is the bulletin number for oil burning because of stuck rings if anyone is interested 02-06-01-009C
  6. Here you go https://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/topic/51275-rotella-t-interesting-results/?tab=comments#comment-240444 This is my theory on my head gaskets: First time the head bolts pulled and it overheated very quickly. Since then the dealer installed the timeserts and I am thinking they are still holding but this time the head gasket is leaking just a little. I have three issues that lead me to believe this might be the case. First I quit using the coolant pills and I started getting the steam out the exhaust pretty bad, I added the pills and problem went away. Second I have a miss that happens on start up but clears up within about 30 seconds or so and third I do have to add coolant every once in a while. Here is the Rotella I was using
  7. Using regular mineral oil (Pennzoil 10w30, getting harder to find :-). No smoke on start up and not much just cruising down the road but of course it blast some out during WOT. I have tried the Rotella (there is another thread somewhere with my results), unfortunately it went from about 900 miles to the quart down to 400 miles a quart on the Rotella, it jumped back up to about 500 miles a quart once I went back to Pennzoil. I have been on this board for a while so I remember learning about the WOT procedure from the Guru himself :-). That being said Austin Traffic doesn't allow for that procedure too often.. I was doing WOT procedures just under 100,000 miles and that is when the head gaskets let loose (during the procedure 🙂), I am over 200,000 now and I think I have a small head gasket leak so I admit I don't do it as often as maybe I could but I do put the pedal down just about every time I drive it (on ramps and what not). I really feel like new rings and head gasket would take this thing another 100,000 miles but I am not sure I am up for that much work.. Pouring something down the cylinders I could handle:-) . Thanks
  8. Its a 98 Concours with 210,000 miles. At 30,000 miles it would burn about a quart every 1700 miles, it has become worse and worse over the years even with many WOT's, I am at about 500 miles to the quart now, leaks very little if at all. . The compression runs from 160-210 depending on the cylinder, if I add some oil to any cylinder it bumps up over 300, surprised me that it went that high but confirms a ring problem I believe. I find it interesting that over the many years I have been following Cadillac forums many people have complained about oil burning but not many have talked about their experience with this technical bulletin (# 02-06-01-009C ). Here is a link to the tool (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-J-45076-GM-Carbon-Removal-Tool/143488923809?hash=item21689b38a1:g:YuIAAOSwCuheDPdF) It would seem I could do the same thing just by pouring the product into the cylinders and maybe adding some compressed air but not sure (hence the question on what this tool actually does).
  9. I know most of us are familiar with the tech bulletin about excessive oil consumption on the early NorthStar's but does anyone now how the Kent Moore tool works? I have the ring cleaner chemical kit in the bulletin and would like to give it a try on my NorthStar but don't want to spend $400.00 or more on the tool. Is anyone familiar enough with the procedure to be able to explain if I can do this without the tool? Thanks in advance.
  10. I just installed this http://www.discountcarstereo.com/blu-gm2.html on my 98 Deville, pretty much plug and play. It turns your system into bluetooth using the CD changer plug (changer will no longer work). I have only had it for a week or two but so far works great and such an easy install.
  11. I had a major miss a while back on my 98 concours, the problem turned out to be worn center electrodes that were much worse on the front bank. The 4 front bank plugs were all around .065 - .070 and the rear bank where all at about .060. I have had some coil problems but that shouldn't effect more then just two plugs I would think, I am also going through about a quart of oil about every 400 miles right now. The plugs only had about 25,000 miles on them and installing new plugs fixed the miss. Anyone know why the electrodes wore so fast (normally they don't wear at all from what I remember). And yes I am pretty particular about checking the gap when I install plugs and we all know the ac delco plugs (which I use the recommended plug from this board) are pre-gapped at .050. Thanks.
  12. Most of its life it was mix city and highway, lately it has been mostly city driving. I have always driven it fairly hard and certainly did my WOTs when I thought it was necessary (was doing this procedure when the head gaskets let go around 100,000 miles :-). Let me know if you have any luck on finding the windshield info.. Thanks.
  13. Right now I am running Pennzoil 10w30 but I put the Rotella oil in for one oil change (for extra zdp) and I went from 800 miles per quart down to 400 per quart, I also started getting the dreaded po420 (bad cat). The interesting thing is once I changed back to Pennzoil the cat cleared up and no more po420, and back up to about 500 miles per quart :-). Still a little confused on the windshield, are you saying if I am lucky enough to find an OEM windshield that I don't have to worry about the adhesive as the sensor is already mounted? Can I use any old windshield and mount my sensor on it? And yes I love the Concours :-) Thanks again.
  14. Thanks rockfangd, just to make sure I am understanding you correctly I will need a windshield specific for rain sense (I see that in your original post now)? Also the part number you gave for the adhesive is aftermarket? I found this on ebay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=RSK1229&_sacat=0 , do you think these would work? After 16 years with this car (which I have thoroughly enjoyed at 200,000 miles) it might be time to upgrade to Deville DTS (2003-2005 :-). I hate to give it up but it is now burning about 500 miles a quart as well.
  15. Thanks BBF. Yeah I suppose any of those would work, I just remember all the threads that say to use the special glue and how it has been drilled into our heads on this board over the years to use original parts :-)...