Front Struts

[BodybyFisher]

This is the rebuilt control arm with the new ball joint, and an Energy Suspension grease seal..

[BodybyFisher]

Because the struts were so bad the car slammed down on the pavement so many times I needed to replace the shrouds as they were damaged

[mikeal1892]

Because the struts were so bad the car slammed down on the pavement so many times I needed to replace the shrouds as they were damaged

Looks good ! Cant believe the the shrouds were damaged as well !

Michael

[BodybyFisher]

Last try . . . .

That is funny Warren, I hadn't seen this till today. Hope you are feeling OK. Mike

[mikeal1892]

Getterrr Done !!

Michael

[adallak]

Good job, Mike. Drilling out the rivets is not that hard when you remove the control arm and use a drill press. I have replaced the bushings ("insulators"), links, ball joints two years ago. One of insulators needs to be replaced again...

[johnnydone]

mike do you know it has been almost 2yrs since we first discussed struts

im glad u are finally getting to it

for the past 2yrs i have had an incredable ride if you loved your car before u will adore it now

my current project of course is my new old rolls royce

im trying to bring it back to mechanically new its already a head turner and im now currently working on the ac and heater then new plugs and wires and finally having the accumulators rebuilt

again happy motoring john

[BodybyFisher]

mike do you know it has been almost 2yrs since we first discussed struts

im glad u are finally getting to it

for the past 2yrs i have had an incredable ride if you loved your car before u will adore it now

my current project of course is my new old rolls royce

im trying to bring it back to mechanically new its already a head turner and im now currently working on the ac and heater then new plugs and wires and finally having the accumulators rebuilt

again happy motoring john

Finally is right.... Thanks I can't wait to see how she ride BOTH shocks were ineffective at allowing the wheel assembly to move up and preventing the body from going down. So I have NO doubt that my front tires were LEAVING the road surface on bumps. That is probably the skippyness I was feeling.... I can't wait almost donw. I can say this however, I WILL NEVER use those screw type spring compressors again... machine shop next time for me! Those suckas are dangerous AND they create havoc with lining up the spring properly...

[johnnydone]

replying to your comment on another post arnott has a resistor soldered to the shock and plugs in to your existing harness no code issues aqfter 2yrs thats the main reason i chose arnott i cant solder worth a darn

good luck john

[mikeal1892]

Trouble Shooter

by Karl Seyfert

April 2006. Owners of older vehicles may prefer cost-effective solutions when electronic suspension systems quit working as designed. Some OE manufacturers are only too happy to oblige.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Rough Riding Caddies

Cadillac models from the early to mid-'90s are equipped with speed sensitive suspensions (SSS), and are prone to display the “Service Ride Control” message on the driver information center. I have worked on several of these vehicles, and they all seemed to have a I039 diagnostic trouble code, indicating an instrument cluster/speed sensor problem. I found an online Cadillac owners' forum and it looks like many owners are having this or similar problems. I recall reading something about disabling the suspension system to correct this. Is there a better solution to this problem than simply turning the system off?

Chet Ladyga

Millville , NJ

It is possible to diagnose these systems, but you'll need the necessary service information to get the job done. Code I039 is an SSS signal fault, indicating only that there's a problem with the system. The system has the ability to store several additional fault codes, which identify problems in specific areas and components of the system. These codes can be retrieved manually, or with a scan tool and the necessary software. We don't have the space here to cover the entire diagnostic process for each of these diagnostic codes, and refer you to your service information source.

A word of caution here. If you do decide to follow the diagnostic procedures outlined in the service information, your investigation may lead you to one or more faulty electronic struts. These parts are very expensive, when they're available, and they may cause the vehicle's owner to throw up his hands in dismay. It's a pretty tough job to get the owner of a vehicle that's at least 10 years old excited about spending thousands of dollars on it, even if it is a Cadillac. The electronic gizmos that were so appealing to the vehicle's first owner may not hold much allure for its second (or third) owner.

There's a less expensive solution to SSS problems, and it's one that's endorsed by the vehicle manufacturer. GM TSB 00-03-11-001, dated August 2000, details the factory-recommended procedures for the installation of “passive” struts to take the place of the original “active” electronic struts. The bulletin covers the procedures for several Cadillac models, as well as several Oldsmobiles, Buicks and Pontiacs from the same era. Refer to the bulletin for the complete list.

According to GM, installation of passive shocks/struts will result in handling characteristics equal to a like vehicle without the computer-controlled ride, with all other components such as tires, tire pressure, springs, etc., being equal. Installing four new passive struts will not extinguish the “Service Ride Control” message, however. If desired by the customer, the service indicator may be disabled after the installation of the four new passive struts, using the service procedures listed below. GM does not authorize this procedure unless four new passive struts have been installed on the vehicle. In other words, don't disable the monitoring system if the vehicle still has the original electronic struts in place.

Once the passive struts have been installed, the wiring harness going to each strut and/or shock assembly must be cut and taped, both under the hood and under the vehicle. What follows is a summary of the additional procedures for specific Cadillac models. Procedures for the other GM models are similar, and are covered in the bulletin.

For 1989-92 Allanté models with Speed Dependent Damping (SDD), adjust the BCM override value “BS08.” To do this, use the Warmer and Cooler buttons on the climate control driver information center (CCDIC) to decrease the BCM override value “BS08,” which is displayed when you enter the system, by 2. When the desired number is displayed on the CCDIC, it must be stored by holding the Elapsed Time and Fuel Used buttons until the new value flashes on and off. When it flashes on and off, the new value has been stored.

For 1991 Eldorado and Seville models with Computer Command Ride (CCR), set the BCM override value “BS09” to 0 by using the Warmer and Cooler buttons. Store this value by pressing the Econ button on the Climate Control Panel and the Instant Econ button on the Fuel Data/Driver Information Center for about five seconds. The new value will be stored even though the indicator does not flash.

Remove the key from the ignition, then disconnect both battery cables. When both cables have been disconnected, touch the ends of the cables together and hold for five seconds. This will discharge the capacitors in the system and allow the system to perform properly when the battery cables are reconnected. Advise the customer he'll have to reset all radio stations and the clock.

For 1992 Eldorado and Seville models with SSS, observe and record the IPC override “IS08” displayed value. Use the climate control Cooler button to decrease the value displayed for “IS08” by 8. To store the new value, press and hold the Econ and Front Defrost buttons until the new value flashes on and off.

The installation of a relay and modification of the wiring harness are required on 1993 Eldorado and Seville models with Speed Sensitive Suspension and the 4.9L engine. The relay is GM Part No. 12193601 and the connector is Part No. 15306045. Use this procedure for these models only. Cut circuit 1020 (pink). Attach the instrument panel cluster (IPC) side of circuit 1020 to relay pin 87A. Attach the module side of circuit 1020 to relay pin 86. Run a ground wire to relay pin 30. Run a wire from a switched ignition (hot in Run) source to relay pin 85.

For 1991-1993 De Ville models with Computer Command Ride, cut circuit 1300 (dark green wire) at the CCR module (pin C15) to disable the indicator lamp. Tape the wires back into the harness to prevent shorting to other components.

The installation of a relay and modification of the wiring harness are required on 1994-1995 De Ville models with SSS and the 4.9L engine. Locate and cut circuit 370 (red). Attach the IPC side of circuit 370 to pin 87A of the relay. Attach the module side of circuit 370 to pin 86 of the relay. Run a ground wire to relay pin 30. Run a wire from a switched ignition (hot in Run) source to relay pin 85.

IF YOU GO TO THE WEBSITE LOOK FOR THE APRIL 2006 ISSUE UNDER BACK ISSUES !

http://www.motor.com/

[BodybyFisher]

Thanks Mike, this is for the older OBD1 Caddies.. I have a different system. . Thanks for posting that however, its good stuff, Mike

[mikeal1892]

Thanks Mike, this is for the older OBD1 Caddies.. I have a different system. . Thanks for posting that however, its good stuff, Mike

Opps

Michael

[BodybyFisher]

Well I just got back from the alignment shop. Perfectly aligned and I have the printout.. I took it out to the highway and its like a new car. No more skippiness no more hard hits over bumps, no more jumpieness on turns, directional stability is great. The car is tight and up and down movement is very controlled, and no bump seems to upset the handling or transmit into the car.

Even though its better, I still have a groan above 70. Much better but its there. I replaced my LF hub bearing and probably will replace the RF at some point.

I will have the tires rotated and balanced next week.

I replaced the following

Strut mounts

Struts

Springs

top and bottom insulators

boots

upper spring seats

Strut rod bushings

hub bearing (LF)

RF ball joint (LF replaced 2 years ago)

caliper bushings

vacuum supply tubing to tank

I need to do front brake hoses and the two heater pipes behind the engine (found rusted) before a major trip. I have the two green silicone hoses and the two heater core hoses on the shelf.. Next week, tranny pan gasket....

One thing, if anyone is going to do front springs, DO NOT use those screw type spring compressors, have the assembly put together at a machine shop.... Those spring compressors are very dangerous, and not meant for springs as wide as the ones on our cars...

Will post some more photos later. Thanks for your help, Mike

[BodybyFisher]

Well I just got back from the alignment shop. Perfectly aligned and I have the printout.. I took it out to the highway and its like a new car. No more skippiness no more hard hits over bumps, no more jumpieness on turns, directional stability is great. The car is tight and up and down movement is very controlled, and no bump seems to upset the handling or transmit into the car.

Even though its better, I still have a groan above 70. Much better but its there. I replaced my LF hub bearing and probably will replace the RF at some point.

I will have the tires rotated and balanced next week.

I replaced the following

Strut mounts

Struts

Springs

top and bottom insulators

boots

upper spring seats

Strut rod bushings

hub bearing (LF)

RF ball joint (LF replaced 2 years ago)

caliper bushings

vacuum supply tubing to tank

I need to do front brake hoses and the two heater pipes behind the engine (found rusted) before a major trip. I have the two green silicone hoses and the two heater core hoses on the shelf.. Next week, tranny pan gasket....

One thing, if anyone is going to do front springs, DO NOT use those screw type spring compressors, have the assembly put together at a machine shop.... Those spring compressors are very dangerous, and not meant for springs as wide as the ones on our cars...

Will post some more photos later. Thanks for your help, Mike

Sorry about the double post I hit add reply twice, this laptop is finicky.. Bruce if you see this feel free to erase one of the above posts and this one to clean this up... thanks Mike (sorry)

[epricedright]

Good Job Mike! I bet you're relieved to have finally done that job. I'll take your advice with the spring compressors if I ever need to replace my struts...no sense in risking your life to save a few bucks!

[JimD]

Good job, Mike.

[WarrenJ]

Well I just got back from the alignment shop. Perfectly aligned and I have the printout.. I took it out to the highway and its like a new car. No more skippiness no more hard hits over bumps, no more jumpieness on turns, directional stability is great. The car is tight and up and down movement is very controlled, and no bump seems to upset the handling or transmit into the car.

Sounds great, Mike. You must be really satisfied!

Someone will have to alert your west coast cousins.

Regards,

Warren

[adallak]

Good job, Mike. Are your springs wider than ones on your 91 Seville?

[coolnesss]

Has anyone heard anything about the Monroe replacement electronic shocks?????

[Barry94]

Great job Mike. I suspect we'll all need this done eventually.

Taking time to document this gives us hope we also can tackle these jobs.

Thanks

Barry

[mikeal1892]

Well I just got back from the alignment shop. Perfectly aligned and I have the printout.. I took it out to the highway and its like a new car. No more skippiness no more hard hits over bumps, no more jumpieness on turns, directional stability is great. The car is tight and up and down movement is very controlled, and no bump seems to upset the handling or transmit into the car.

Even though its better, I still have a groan above 70. Much better but its there. I replaced my LF hub bearing and probably will replace the RF at some point.

I will have the tires rotated and balanced next week.

I replaced the following

Strut mounts

Struts

Springs

top and bottom insulators

boots

upper spring seats

Strut rod bushings

hub bearing (LF)

RF ball joint (LF replaced 2 years ago)

caliper bushings

vacuum supply tubing to tank

I need to do front brake hoses and the two heater pipes behind the engine (found rusted) before a major trip. I have the two green silicone hoses and the two heater core hoses on the shelf.. Next week, tranny pan gasket....

One thing, if anyone is going to do front springs, DO NOT use those screw type spring compressors, have the assembly put together at a machine shop.... Those spring compressors are very dangerous, and not meant for springs as wide as the ones on our cars...

Will post some more photos later. Thanks for your help, Mike

Sorry about the double post I hit add reply twice, this laptop is finicky.. Bruce if you see this feel free to erase one of the above posts and this one to clean this up... thanks Mike (sorry)

Just in from OHio glad to hear its all the way you wanted it to be !

Michael

[BodybyFisher]

Good Job Mike! I bet you're relieved to have finally done that job. I'll take your advice with the spring compressors if I ever need to replace my struts...no sense in risking your life to save a few bucks!

I had the alignment place assemble the spring / strut assemble for $25. The problem with using the screw type spring compressor was that I couldn't get the spring to release evenly and it was pushing the rubber insulator out of position. I tried about 5 times using white grease to get the spring to slip over the insulator and it continued to push it out of position. Finally my spring compressor screw began to gall and the threads were badly chewed up (they were new) and I decided I was stressing them too much and took it to the shop. I believe it could be done with 4 spring compressors putting even pressure all around the spring, in addition the additional 2 compressors would add a level of safety to the job..

Good job, Mike.

Thanks Jim, I was thinking about you last night as I was driving, you said it feels like it's new, you are right! By the way, I have been thinking that you used the spring compressors... did you have any problems with them? I was thinking that the reason you didnt have a problem was because you used your old upper rubber insulator, mine kept being pushed out of position but they were new and very flexible.

Well I just got back from the alignment shop. Perfectly aligned and I have the printout.. I took it out to the highway and its like a new car. No more skippiness no more hard hits over bumps, no more jumpieness on turns, directional stability is great. The car is tight and up and down movement is very controlled, and no bump seems to upset the handling or transmit into the car.

Sounds great, Mike. You must be really satisfied!

Someone will have to alert your west coast cousins.

Regards,

Warren

this will make the trip to Norfolk, Va safer and more enjoyable this summer. My first trip there is on May 26... I bought my cousin a new Key Fob and need to program it...

Good job, Mike. Are your springs wider than ones on your 91 Seville?

Yes Adallak, I think they are slightly wider. Ill measure the widest point of the old one and post it later.

Great job Mike. I suspect we'll all need this done eventually.

Taking time to document this gives us hope we also can tackle these jobs.

Thanks

Barry

Thanks Barry, I feel the same way about your timesert threads, Thanks

[BodybyFisher]

I thought these photos would be informational:

This first photo is of my RF spring, this is the TOP of the spring, the spring is sitting upside down so you can see how badly the spring was bottoming out. The brown rusted area is where the spring was bottoming out. It was so bad, that there is a FLAT spot on the spring about 3/16" to 1/4" wide.... Amazing... This is an indication of how bad my struts were as they allowed both the wheel assembly to leave the road, but even worse, the strut allowed the weight of my front end free motion DOWNWARD.... My front end is about 1 to 2 inches higher than before. With the old struts I could not pull up to curbs or bumpers without hitting the carriage on it. I repainted my carriage with high temp black paint where it was rusted from hitting the ground and curbs.

The second photo is of the caliper bushings. As you can see they were surrounded with rust. On close inspection, and when comparing them to the new bushings these were worn badly, dried out and stiff...

I believe that replacing these bushings should be part of your front brake job along with cleaning out the caliper holes of rust using a round wire brush.

I believe that its possible that some of our members who are complaining about pulsating brakes could have worn bushings that permit the caliper to oscillate..back and forth... If you have these take a look at them next time you do your pads... also make sure you grease them good, the new bushing kit comes with silicone grease...

The third photo is my RF finished with the strut assembly, new strut rod bushing and new ball joint, Mike

[johnnydone]

good job mike now if u can defeat the error message u will be a happy camper john

[BodybyFisher]

Has anyone heard anything about the Monroe replacement electronic shocks?????

I bought my Boston struts before I knew that Monroe had availability. Plus Boston claimed that they could suppress the SERVICE RIDE CONTROL message, which attracted me.... but that of course turned out NOT to be true. I spoke to Arnott on the phone and did not like the feedback I was getting so I was turned off..

If I had the chance to do this over I would seriously consider the Monroe and use the electronic dampers from each of the old struts to fool the computer

good job mike now if u can defeat the error message u will be a happy camper john

THAT will be easy, very easy, I am going to remove the electronic dampers from each of the old struts and tie wrap them in place and connect them to the system.... I need to buy old rear struts from the scrap yard. I sent one to JimD and broke one. If the SERVICE RIDE CONTROL message does not come up, it will help me sell the car..... I think most buyers would be reluctant to buy a car with SERVICE RIDE CONTROL coming up, don't you think?