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Has anyone heard anything about the Monroe replacement electronic shocks?????

I found this on Munroe's site.

http://www.monroe.com/catalog_lookup/E_Cat...YR=1994&LST=499

However I was unable to find a price.

Barry

2008 STS V8
2016 Colorado Z71
1970 Corvette LT-1 Coupe

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....

THAT will be easy, very easy, I am going to remove the electronic dampers from each of the old struts and tie wrap them in place and connect them to the system.... I need to buy old rear struts from the scrap yard. I sent one to JimD and broke one. If the SERVICE RIDE CONTROL message does not come up, it will help me sell the car..... I think most buyers would be reluctant to buy a car with SERVICE RIDE CONTROL coming up, don't you think?

Mike:

I can get that solenoid in the mail manana.

And, I have a GM standard two pin connector that I will solder on if that is what the chassis end of your wiring uses. Also, there is aprroximately 18" of wire on the solenoid; is that enough or do you need more wiggle room?

Jim

Drive your car.

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CHOOSE ONE !

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Jim did I send you the one that had its wiring connector broken off or WITH the wiring intact. If I recall I broke the first rear strut connector off (I think I discarded it) and I sent you the one with the connector intact, is that right? Mike

If you do still have that solenoid and the connector intact that would be great. That would mean that I would only need to buy one rear strut assembly and remove the damper valve.... cool

Id like to sell this for $6K and buy and STS in decent condition.. if possible

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

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Jim did I send you the one that had its wiring connector broken off or WITH the wiring intact. If I recall I broke the first rear strut connector off (I think I discarded it) and I sent you the one with the connector intact, is that right? Mike

If you do still have that solenoid and the connector intact that would be great. That would mean that I would only need to buy one rear strut assembly and remove the damper valve.... cool

Id like to sell this for $6K and buy and STS in decent condition.. if possible

May as well just keep it and get an STS. Hell its pretty much new and you know what you have got ;)

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Jim did I send you the one that had its wiring connector broken off or WITH the wiring intact. If I recall I broke the first rear strut connector off (I think I discarded it) and I sent you the one with the connector intact, is that right? Mike

If you do still have that solenoid and the connector intact that would be great. That would mean that I would only need to buy one rear strut assembly and remove the damper valve.... cool

Id like to sell this for $6K and buy and STS in decent condition.. if possible

Here is the solenoid you sent to me (that must be L.I. dirt in the threads).

The connector to the chassis was cut off but I can solder on the connector shown if that is the proper configuration.

Correction; connector not shown and I emailed it, Mike. Pix are too big....

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Jim, thanks! I kept the connector here as I soldered a resistor onto it, thanks for jogging my memory. Yes I would love to have that damper back if you don't need it... You have my address still? Do you think these valves get hot? What do you think of me heat shrink wrapping them to keep water out and then attaching them to the body by drilling a hole in the metal frame that wraps around it?

Thanks, again Mike

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The valve coil and associated wiring is waterproof as is. I would just be sure it is secure and can't rattle against something. Heat dissipation should not be a problem on your average paved surface.

You might do some future owner / mechanic a favor and mark the valve somehow to indicate why and how the suspension is "modified".

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Good Idea, I had planned to state that the struts were replaced with Passives when I sold the car with a complete list of work performed...

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

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Here is an UPDATE..... All I can say is OH MY GOD!

I have gone out the last two nights on shake down runs. The new front end has transformed my car into a smooth, road hugging, flat on turns, quiet rocket! It is totally amazing the difference that this work has made. It is as if I am riding on glass.... And to think that I still need to change the RF hub bearing and it will get even better... The skippiness or the cars tendency to jerk or change direction abruptly over bumps is GONE! That skippiness felt like it was coming from the rear it was so bad, I thought I had bad rear knuckles, but it was the tire assembly leaving the road surface and coming down in a different position due to the suspension geometry changing from loose bushings, ball joints and strut mount. The strut mount on the RF was definitely damaged and today I noticed that the RF strut was leaking oil as it was leaving an oil line on the shaft as I worked it in and out. A pleasant suprise is how nicely the car negotiates curb cuts now, before replacing the struts and springs I always had a fear of bottoming out, that is GONE...

Tomorrow I am going to balance and rotate my tires. This has been a very rewarding repair and I recommend this to anyone who has an aging Cadillac, it makes a big difference.

Other than their inability to suppress the Ride Control message I have no complaints with the Boston struts. However, I would have a good look at the passive struts that rockauto is selling (Monroe's) if I had to do this over again. I didn't like that the Boston struts are generic struts and they don't have proper fittings for the stabilizer link and they have the extra wing (which doesn't actually cause any problems). But they are doing the job and I am thrilled with the ride...

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I'm sorry the OLD strut was leaking... not the new one..

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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[ I would have a good look at the passive struts that rockauto is selling (Monroe's) if I had to do this over again. I didn't like that the Boston struts are generic struts and they don't have proper fittings for the stabilizer link and they have the extra wing (which doesn't actually cause any problems). But they are doing the job and I am thrilled with the ride...

The Monroes are electronic!!!!!!!!!!

I talked to their sales peep and he said they replace the Cad electronic exactly.

I wonder if anyone has used them????

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How much are they. I am surprised that they are electronic

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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A year late and a dollar (or some) short!

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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I only spent $525, I doubt that the Monroes are cheap. I couldnt see putting $2000 worth of active struts on a 10 yo car...

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Different parts on a totally different front suspension, but!

When I was going through the parts availability / price exercise for my '98 Seville struts, I did find a Monroe part number for active struts. The Monroe price was so close to OEM parts that I decided to get the known quantity of OEM parts.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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  • 1 month later...

I just replaced my RF hub bearing and the high speed moan is completely gone. It really got bad above 72 and at 77 it was scary loud. I just took it for a short high speed ride and hit 88 with no moan/roar at all.

It took about an hour to replace it, I was lucky the axle bolt came right off, and once I removed the three hub bearing bolts the bearing came right out of the knuckle.. Very lucky. Torqued everything up to spec, greased the ball joint and tie-rod and my front end is now complete.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Great to hear the repair went well. That is a wonderful feeling when you can diagnose and repair something yourself.

Bruce

2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing

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Well done, Mike. Happy motoring.

Down here (south of I-20) that would be a 4 hour job due to the time needed to mop up the sweat and ponder the meaning of life over a can of red white and blue.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Great to hear the repair went well. That is a wonderful feeling when you can diagnose and repair something yourself.

Thanks Bruce, it does feel good. I can't wait for my next long trip, July 3rd to Virginia Beach. The moan was so bad, you had difficulty having a conversation. I will have to watch my speed now, I don't have any warning 'noise', :lol:

Well done, Mike. Happy motoring.

Down here (south of I-20) that would be a 4 hour job due to the time needed to mop up the sweat and ponder the meaning of life over a can of red white and blue.

Thanks Jim, :lol:

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Thanks Mac!

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I can't wait for my next long trip, July 3rd to Virginia Beach.

:D:D:D

post-416-1150121220_thumb.jpg

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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Warren, you know me! I spoke to Lakewood Auto parts and plan to pull the module out of a 96 sitting there! :lol:

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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