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Looked at a 96 Deville today. Have a few questions


rockfangd

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Exactly.

I know exactly when my 97 Seville locks up and unlocks.

It is identical to when my 96 did, and almost identical to my 01.

The one I looked at did not .

I made sure it was up to operating temp and running ok.

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Well went and looked at a 97 Deville De'elegance today. Decent shape. Overheats quick though. Just a few minutes of highway speed caused it t ospew from the purge hose at the tank. I assume the worst here. I walked for today, going to take time to think about it and get a few quotes for the timesert job.

It rode nice though. Makes me miss my Deville even more. No torque converter codes or issues.

Also has the miss on cold startup.

I have to say I am not surprised. That head issue seems to be very common around here.

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The miss fire is prob spark plugs fouled from the head gasket. Or just the low compression from head fall let. At least you know what you'll be into on the engine. I'd rather have our done right my self then trust what the person selling the car is telling me. And who knows how the real repair was done.

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The 15 minute test is not always helpful in these for overheating. Because It may take hard loaded acceleration to introduce the exhaust to overheat it.

I have driven them around the city with no problems but 5 minutes on the highway and you are overheating.

I will know about this one by next weekend.

I would be happy to know it has been done properly too.

GM FAN FOREVER

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Ok so it looks like my mind is made up. I am going to pick up the 97 Deville probably tomorrow. Then I will try to get a test out of it. It would bee absolutely wonderful if it was not failed head bolts but I am not very confident.

If it is I have someone that will install a used engine with full 1yr warranty, (parts and labor) and I will take my chances. The engine is the vin Y typical..

Any tips for me on this are greatly appreciated.

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I thank you.

I picked up the car today and I must say I love it.

The interior is so plush, it feels like pillows.

The interior is cluttered but otherwise very good shape.

The rainsense sensor is gone... I loved that feature on my 96 etc. Have not had another with it since. I really hope to be able to get a unit and fix it.

It rides so smooth, Shifts nice. Ran up to temp fine when I got it home (after it was towed)

I would absolutely love if it was the hollow bolt or the waterpump belt, or something like that.

All I know is that it overheated on the previous owner, the radiator was replaced. And it still overheated.

But when I asked them about the lights and messages related to the overheating they did not recall anything.

when it still overheated they parked it. That was 6 months ago.

saturday I will be going over everything including trying a by products test. I have not added anymore coolant since I topped it off at the test drive last week.

I got on the highway and stepped on it hard during the test drive. IT took off like a rocket and I gave it several heavy accelerations. Temp got up to 220 but went back down. I then cracked the cap and let the air purge as the upper hose was hard.

I will update this. Thanks all

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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When I pulled a head bolt in 2006, I had a high-speed commute and it was always overheating when pulling the same gentle grade hill on an Interstate, and it would need a gallon or more of coolant every trip. I had a pressure test and was told that it wasn't bad, and would be OK if I just drove it around town... but I got a Jasper put in over July 4 weekend.

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-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I thank you.

I picked up the car today and I must say I love it.

The interior is so plush, it feels like pillows.

The interior is cluttered but otherwise very good shape.

The rainsense sensor is gone... I loved that feature on my 96 etc. Have not had another with it since. I really hope to be able to get a unit and fix it.

It rides so smooth, Shifts nice. Ran up to temp fine when I got it home (after it was towed)

I would absolutely love if it was the hollow bolt or the waterpump belt, or something like that.

All I know is that it overheated on the previous owner, the radiator was replaced. And it still overheated.

But when I asked them about the lights and messages related to the overheating they did not recall anything.

when it still overheated they parked it. That was 6 months ago.

saturday I will be going over everything including trying a by products test. I have not added anymore coolant since I topped it off at the test drive last week.

I got on the highway and stepped on it hard during the test drive. IT took off like a rocket and I gave it several heavy accelerations. Temp got up to 220 but went back down. I then cracked the cap and let the air purge as the upper hose was hard.

I will update this. Thanks all

The interior is cluttered? Was the car full of the previous owner's junk or it it just dirty?

Replacing the radiator and/or water pump due to overheating - the classic signs of a shop who has no clue on how to diagnose a Northstar engine (or any engine for that matter...). I will bet they charged the previous owner a lot of money to replace a perfectly good radiator.

I am surprised you couldn't get it to overheat - 220 is in the normal range - the hose should be hard once the engine is up to temp and the cooling system is under pressure.

What color? Mileage?

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Good luck with it glad you got another Deville. I am looking after a 98 now that is losing coolant regularly but no smell or evidence. Could be a leak that only shows itself under pressure and evaporates when it hits atmosphere. Coolant combustion by products test is negative.

You may also have a binding thermostat.

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To answer all questions.

Interior is slightly dirty. but cluttered with old stuff.

I payed 900 for it.

Cant explain the color. It is not pearl white but more of a tanish white.

The radiators are common, only if the leak is external. I have had to replace every radiator yet on my caddys due to the cracking on the inlet tank.

The upper radiator hose felt almost rock hard, harder than I felt to be normal

GM FAN FOREVER

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That is a beautiful car.

Check the radiator cap to make sure that it is the right kind, and a 15 psi cap. There should be 15 psi pressure when the car is warmed up.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I will try to be as specific as I can on this. I did not add any coolant. level was already in range

engine cold. Put tester on tank, hooked vacuum up to line at firewall. Started engine, verified good vacuum through tester, fluid stayed blue.

let engine warm up. Found tester suctioned to neck and sucked some coolant in.

shut down. Cleaned tester good, retried. Making sure that it didnt get stuck again (is that normal for the tester to get suctioned to the neck?)

ran up to 230*f while monitoring tester. Color stayed deep blue.

removed tester. used vacuum pump to pull vacuum through tester at tailpipe. Immediately turned yellow. So that should mean that test fluid is ok.

Upper radiator hose was hot

lower radiator hose was warm. I could easily hold my hand on lower hose (normal??)

I removed hollow bolt, was clear.

I hope this might help. I am not getting my hopes up yet but it would be nice. Input is greatly appreciated.

If thermostat was stuck closed what would be a good way to tell?

GM FAN FOREVER

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Why would you pull from exhaust pipe, those ARE combustion by products and the tester worked as expected when it detected them.

Check thermostat for binding and maybe replace.

Coolant flows at purge line?

Feel radiator for restrictions, maybe there was a leak and someone dumped something in.

See if water pump belt is loose and or glazed

Check fan function, did they kick on?

Could there be a problem with the engine temperature sensor being out of calibration and reading high? See if the manual shows proper resistance at a specific temp and check. Will a P code show if its out of calibration?

I would pull and clean the bolt with a hole in it with a drill bit.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I did the tailpipe test afterward to verify fluid worked. and it did

hollow bolt is clear and flows. Already removed it. was already clean

Unsure if a code would set. Fans seem to kick on but I will find out more tomorrow.

radiator is new. supposed to be

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Oh i must of missed that you were testing the solution at the exhaust sorry. Working on a smart phone is tedious.

Ill look in my manual and see if a resistance is specified for the temp sensor.

Radiator new, purge clear, fans working 230 seems high in this weather at idle I think. Lets see what others think.

Change stat it could be messed up, and maybe somebody left it out...

Dont get fooled by new radiator, make sure its flowing. Lots of slambang mechanics out there that know nothing about the NS, assume nothing.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I'd you have access top a infared temp gun you can get car up to operating temp then check the radiator for temperature from top to bottom and left to right. If there is a blockage on the radiator it'll show as a cold area. I've seen new radiator not flow to an area because of pinched tubes in the end tanks.

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I'm lost on the vacuum line for the tester. The tester I use just has a bulb on the end like a turkey baster. Basically you put the fluid in the tester then use the bulb to pull an air sample into the fluid. If there any combustion gases present then the fluid changes color.

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There are a few different ones. Mine has a few vacuum attachments for different applications. Got ir gun for tomorrow.

It has been a little while since I have done a thermostat on one of these. Does someone have a pic of the proper installed thermostat. I want to make sure it is not backwards.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I just looked at the 96 service manual, P0116, P0117 and P0118 are related to the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor and it seems if there were a problem with it a code would set.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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it had so many history codes I will have to check that. no current. Last current was p0300 and it was tripped on my test drive. stunk like old gas

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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