stsbank Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Hi everyone, Yesterday while I was in the driveway, I could not shift the car into reverse because the brake pedal would sink in all the way. I rolled the window down and heard a hissing sound when i pressed on the breaks.Then after looking around the front driver's wheel i saw a puddle of brake fluid and that it was coming from a metal break line behind the wheel. My question is... is necessary to bleed the breaks after replacing the hose or, will it be ok just to refill? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Hi everyone, Yesterday while I was in the driveway, I could not shift the car into reverse because the brake pedal would sink in all the way. I rolled the window down and heard a hissing sound when i pressed on the breaks.Then after looking around the front driver's wheel i saw a puddle of brake fluid and that it was coming from a metal break line behind the wheel. My question is... is necessary to bleed the breaks after replacing the hose or, will it be ok just to refill? Thanks in advance. It i snot clear from your post whether it is rotted metal line or the caliper hose. By the way, I do not see how a sinking brake pedal would prevent shifting out of park. All a pedal does is activating a switch. I would definitely bleed that particular brake after repair is completed. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsbank Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Its a non-corroded metal line and has a small pin sized hole on it where its leaking.I believe it comes from the abs module to the wheel where it connects to a rubber hose. I agree with you on the shift but it would not move from the park position. I'll be doing the repair tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Its a non-corroded metal line and has a small pin sized hole on it where its leaking.I believe it comes from the abs module to the wheel where it connects to a rubber hose. I agree with you on the shift but it would not move from the park position. I'll be doing the repair tomorrow. If it is the line coming from the ABS hydraulic modulator, it will be easy to replace. A part store may even have a piece of right length. Sometimes it is not easy to shift a car out of park when the vehicle is parked on an incline. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupeDTS Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 i had that same problem on my fleetwood. The line on the ABS end was a different kind of flare than the end connecting to the rubber hose and it is not the type you can get at a parts store. I had to go to a brake shop that sells and custom makes brake lines to have them make me one. Cost me $12 I believe. Then yes bleed that brake and add fluid. The other front might need bled as well. One man bleeders (check valve types) are VERY nifty! * 1966 Deville Convertible * 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black * 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 i had that same problem on my fleetwood. The line on the ABS end was a different kind of flare than the end connecting to the rubber hose and it is not the type you can get at a parts store. I had to go to a brake shop that sells and custom makes brake lines to have them make me one. Cost me $12 I believe. Then yes bleed that brake and add fluid. The other front might need bled as well. One man bleeders (check valve types) are VERY nifty! Good point. The ends of four lines connected to the hydraulic modulator have some odd fittings and they are different. I think they did that so the lines would not get messed up. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsbank Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 what would the bleeding order be on a 95 seville sts? 1. right(passenger) rear 2. left(Driver) rear 3. right(passenger) front 4. left(driver) front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 what would the bleeding order be on a 95 seville sts? 1. right(passenger) rear 2. left(Driver) rear 3. right(passenger) front 4. left(driver) front? Correct. The order is dictated by the length of lines. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Aren't the flares on the brake lines just ISO (bubble) flares? Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupeDTS Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 Aren't the flares on the brake lines just ISO (bubble) flares? that sounds real familiar, I believe thats what it was on the ABS end. It looked almost rounded. The other end was regular 45 degree(?) flare you would see on sections of line you can buy. * 1966 Deville Convertible * 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black * 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 I must add I am nott a fan of the location of the ABS units on these lol, such a big car and they cram it down there lol. I have done tons of the kelsey hayes units on GMs due to the pump siezing up or other related problems and there is like a different fitting for every line. If you break off a bleeder dont try to line bleed it as it will not work. If you didnt run it out of fluid you may get away with just bleeding the problem corner once repairs have been made GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 I must add I am nott a fan of the location of the ABS units on these lol, such a big car and they cram it down there lol. I have done tons of the kelsey hayes units on GMs due to the pump siezing up or other related problems and there is like a different fitting for every line. If you break off a bleeder dont try to line bleed it as it will not work. If you didnt run it out of fluid you may get away with just bleeding the problem corner once repairs have been made I remember one of the fittings on the ABS unit of my 91 Seville had 11x1 mm thread, which is not a common metric thread either. If I had to replace a whole line I would keep the original fittings and flare (double flare) the line myself. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsbank Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Thanks guys. I'll be taking my time with this repair, so I'll go ahead and replace the old brake line, bleed all sides, and replace the old brake fluid. At first it seemed like an intimidating job, but after hearing from you guys and a couple of youtube videos on the subject and I feel fairly confident. Thanks to everyone in Caddyinfo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 I must add I am nott a fan of the location of the ABS units on these lol, such a big car and they cram it down there lol. I have done tons of the kelsey hayes units on GMs due to the pump siezing up or other related problems and there is like a different fitting for every line. If you break off a bleeder dont try to line bleed it as it will not work. If you didnt run it out of fluid you may get away with just bleeding the problem corner once repairs have been made I remember one of the fittings on the ABS unit of my 91 Seville had 11x1 mm thread, which is not a common metric thread either. If I had to replace a whole line I would keep the original fittings and flare (double flare) the line myself. Exactly, not much fun. I am finally sourcing premade lines with fittings installed GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 I must add I am nott a fan of the location of the ABS units on these lol, such a big car and they cram it down there lol. I have done tons of the kelsey hayes units on GMs due to the pump siezing up or other related problems and there is like a different fitting for every line. If you break off a bleeder dont try to line bleed it as it will not work. If you didnt run it out of fluid you may get away with just bleeding the problem corner once repairs have been made I remember one of the fittings on the ABS unit of my 91 Seville had 11x1 mm thread, which is not a common metric thread either. If I had to replace a whole line I would keep the original fittings and flare (double flare) the line myself. Exactly, not much fun. I am finally sourcing premade lines with fittings installed I had to cut and double-flare a brake line right on the car. Not a big deal if you take your time and have right tools. Let us know how it works out. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 For those of you that want to avoid future brake issues, here's my suggestion (especially for the DIYselfer that's handy). wet the bleeder bolts with liquid wrench for 2 days. when ready, take the tire off the rear pass side, and tap the bleeder with a hammer. using the smallest socket wrench you have, try to remove the bleeder bolt. if it does not come off with a reasonable amount of force, heet it with a torch & douse it with a little water quickly & you may hear a snap. try removing it (and repeat if necessary). run fluid thru & bleed (2 people highly recommended). repeat for each wheel. by the time you are done, you will have a jar of brown rust & black gook at the bottom. I am not sure if anyone ever concluded if brake lines rust from the outside in, or inside out. they appear to be galvanized, si I suspect the prior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 For those of you that want to avoid future brake issues, here's my suggestion (especially for the DIYselfer that's handy). wet the bleeder bolts with liquid wrench for 2 days. when ready, take the tire off the rear pass side, and tap the bleeder with a hammer. using the smallest socket wrench you have, try to remove the bleeder bolt. if it does not come off with a reasonable amount of force, heet it with a torch & douse it with a little water quickly & you may hear a snap. try removing it (and repeat if necessary). run fluid thru & bleed (2 people highly recommended). repeat for each wheel. by the time you are done, you will have a jar of brown rust & black gook at the bottom. I am not sure if anyone ever concluded if brake lines rust from the outside in, or inside out. they appear to be galvanized, si I suspect the prior. I don't know, but since brake fluid is hydroscopic... it could also be rusting inside the line at the same time. Hard to say... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 For those of you that want to avoid future brake issues, here's my suggestion (especially for the DIYselfer that's handy). wet the bleeder bolts with liquid wrench for 2 days. when ready, take the tire off the rear pass side, and tap the bleeder with a hammer. using the smallest socket wrench you have, try to remove the bleeder bolt. if it does not come off with a reasonable amount of force, heet it with a torch & douse it with a little water quickly & you may hear a snap. try removing it (and repeat if necessary). run fluid thru & bleed (2 people highly recommended). repeat for each wheel. by the time you are done, you will have a jar of brown rust & black gook at the bottom. I am not sure if anyone ever concluded if brake lines rust from the outside in, or inside out. they appear to be galvanized, si I suspect the prior. I don't know, but since brake fluid is hydroscopic... it could also be rusting inside the line at the same time. Hard to say... I agree 100% Jim. If I had a choice of what fluid to change the most (other than oil), it would be the fluid that absorbs water. I don't know of any metal that does well over the longterm with water. I guess it's why brake fluid has the reputation as "The most neglected fluid". Don't forget that water is also compressable, so it'll give the brakes a spongy feel too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 For those of you that want to avoid future brake issues, here's my suggestion (especially for the DIYselfer that's handy). wet the bleeder bolts with liquid wrench for 2 days. when ready, take the tire off the rear pass side, and tap the bleeder with a hammer. using the smallest socket wrench you have, try to remove the bleeder bolt. if it does not come off with a reasonable amount of force, heet it with a torch & douse it with a little water quickly & you may hear a snap. try removing it (and repeat if necessary). run fluid thru & bleed (2 people highly recommended). repeat for each wheel. by the time you are done, you will have a jar of brown rust & black gook at the bottom. I am not sure if anyone ever concluded if brake lines rust from the outside in, or inside out. they appear to be galvanized, si I suspect the prior. I don't know, but since brake fluid is hydroscopic... it could also be rusting inside the line at the same time. Hard to say... I agree 100% Jim. If I had a choice of what fluid to change the most (other than oil), it would be the fluid that absorbs water. I don't know of any metal that does well over the longterm with water. I guess it's why brake fluid has the reputation as "The most neglected fluid". Don't forget that water is also compressable, so it'll give the brakes a spongy feel too. Water is not compressible, the water vapor is. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 I am not sure if anyone ever concluded if brake lines rust from the outside in, or inside out. they appear to be galvanized, si I suspect the prior. I don't know, but since brake fluid is hydroscopic... it could also be rusting inside the line at the same time. Hard to say... I agree 100% Jim. If I had a choice of what fluid to change the most (other than oil), it would be the fluid that absorbs water. I don't know of any metal that does well over the longterm with water. I guess it's why brake fluid has the reputation as "The most neglected fluid". Don't forget that water is also compressable, so it'll give the brakes a spongy feel too. Water is not compressible, the water vapor is. True, but since water boils at a much lower temperature than brake fluid... Winterset is also right. In any hard braking situation... the brakes will get REAL SPONGY... REAL QUICK... been there........ done that... :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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