Jump to content
CaddyInfo Cadillac Forum

sway bar link


joeb

Recommended Posts

this is for front sway bar. got top nut off sway bar end link. amazing for mn rusty car. the link is the style with spherical ball ends. take off nut, push threaded portion out of strut mounting tab. except it will not push out. seems very solid. am i missing something? do not have extra strut laying around to verify what mounting flange should look like. it seems there is a thick washer under nut that i removed? i was not expecting to find anything once nut unscrewed. the sway bar link is not exactly high tech.

Edited by joeb
Link to comment
Share on other sites


It is a tapered seat - much like a miniature ball joint. You might need to heat the sway-bar with a torch in order to break it free.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i got top nut off and could not push out link end. so i tried lower nut on sway bar and it also is loose. both nuts are not rusted. awesome. i have done other gm cars, dodges, mazda cars in the last year. none had a tapered seat that i recall. i still think link is ok. am trying to find front end rattle. seems to be wheel speed.

Edited by joeb
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wheel-speed rattles are usually one of the CV joints. They rarely give trouble unless the boot has a crack or tear in it, so look for that first.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

boots look fine. how do you check for play in axle? area is pretty tight. tie rod, sway bar, LCA, toe rod.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i got top nut off and could not push out link end. so i tried lower nut on sway bar and it also is loose. both nuts are not rusted. awesome. i have done other gm cars, dodges, mazda cars in the last year. none had a tapered seat that i recall. i still think link is ok. am trying to find front end rattle. seems to be wheel speed.

If the links seem tight (you will be able to rotate the body) and the front end rattles going over bumps a prime suspect is the front strut mount(s). Over time, they wear and will begin "clunking" when going over bumps.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

Link to comment
Share on other sites

road by house is smooth. no potholes. initial driving, first several blocks i can hear a rattle/click that is almost wheel speed. not perfectly rhythmic but definitely close to wheel speed. maybe 25mph? get up to 35-40mph and sound goes away. once car is warm, sound seems to be gone at all speeds. i still think strut bellows might be issue. stiff plastic, cold temps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like....

Squalk sound several times during first half mile after cold overnight park = stab/sway bar bushings.

Popcorn popping in the microwave sound = stab/sway links.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i debated taking off 1 link to free up sway bar. but 2nd link would still make bar move. bushings were replaced 6yrs ago. maybe 25k miles?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hope this helps. if the link stud is stuck in the tapered strut hole, try to pop out the link from the ball on the stuck end(strut end)

grab the ball side with vicegrips and heat the strut at the stud side carefully, use caution there is pressure in the struts

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be careful replacing sway bar end links! I was replacing one on my 98 DeVille a few weeks back before selling it. The top nut was very tight. I stupidly stood up to get more leverage. When the nut let go, I smashed my face on the fender which caused my right front tooth to go completely through my upper lip... well, above my lip, under my mustache. My face was numb for a while and I felt like I was in a bit of shock but I didn't want to leave the car all taken apart. I stopped for 10 minutes to stop the bleeding and continued on. Finally got the job completed though after an hour of prying on the lower bolt. I felt kinda dumb. LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...