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Changed my alternator and now my abs and traction lights are on


truprayaz

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I'm hoping someone can help! I have a 96 Caddy which I love but a few days ago we were driving back from our boys wrestling meet and a service charging station flashed on my screen....then it said no battery charge or something on those lines! And then the dash light started flashing on and off!! So we coasted into advance auto and they ran a test, they said we had a bad alternator....no problem :-) (not really)!! Luckily we have a friend who works on cars, he took the alternator off and we took it into a auto shop where he rebuilt it....saved us a few bucks:-) Since our buddy had the alternator off we decided to go ahead and change the serpentine belt, replace the thermostat sensor and replace the radiator. Everything seemed good until yesterday when the abs light and traction control light came on.... it comes on and off when ever it wants too. And then this morning I was taking my boys to school and my caddy did a sort of jump thing like i was gunning it....and a few minutes later the engine died with no warning! It started right back up though....my husband is freaking out thinking we need to sell it! I love my caddy and do not want to sell it!!! Please someone help!! This is my first Caddy and I LOVE IT!!!

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How do I get the codes? Sorry I'm new to this stuff :-) And if my husband had it his way we would trade it for a Tahoe....but I'm willing to fix it:-)

Follow this link and write down the codes and if the are "C"urrent or "H"istory...

http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

Then we can advise you on how to proceed...

Your Cadillac can tell you what is wrong with it...:)

It could be nothing more than a loose wire on the sensor on the hub... or it could be other things.

The codes will tell us what the problem is.

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As noted, check the codes, we can help, it could be that the system needs to be rebooted, but lets see what the codes show.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Okay ummmm I think I might have missed one because I pushed the wrong button and it erased the codes. Sorry:-( Also I'm pretty sure that all of them said history not current but I'm not positive....I guess I just got excited knowing how to get the codes:-) Anyway here they are: PC0603, TC0027, TC0072, PZ1558, RF2560, and IP1552.....the code I missed was a PC code sorry:-) And thanks so much everyone for the help!

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Okay ummmm I think I might have missed one because I pushed the wrong button and it erased the codes. Sorry:-( Also I'm pretty sure that all of them said history not current but I'm not positive....I guess I just got excited knowing how to get the codes:-) Anyway here they are: PC0603, TC0027, TC0072, PZ1558, RF2560, and IP1552.....the code I missed was a PC code sorry:-) And thanks so much everyone for the help!

PC0603 = Battery was disconnected in the recent past

TC0027 = LF Wheel Speed Sensor Fault.... may be just a loose wire

TC0072 = Serial Data Link Fault ... I may be wrong about this one.

IP1552 = Loss of Keep Alive Memory... maybe battery was disconnected???

B1558 = BCM EPROM Checksum Error... not sure what would cause that

RF2560 = RFA message validation error....... I"THINK"this is your remote door unlock function.

I had a lot of problems finding explanations for the codes... don't know why.

Since you cleared the codes... check them again after driving the car around the block.

See which ones come back.

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P0603 Control Module Long Term Memory Reset

T027 LF Wheel Speed Sensor Continuity Fault

T072 Serial Data Link Fault

B1558 BCM EPROM Checksum Error

B2560 RKE Message Validation Error

B1552 Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error

The ones with three digits are OBD I codes, which some 1996 Cadillacs used to supplement OBD II codes. The P0603 and B1552 just mean that the battery was disconnected recently. If you are having trouble with your keyless entry fob, it may need to be resynchronized with the RFA, but the B2560 as well as the B1558 may also be due to the battery being disconnected.

You didn't say which codes were History and which were Current, but I would expect that T027 is Current, and is the cause of your problems with the traction control. The wiring probably got pushed around and now the connector is off the LF wheel sensor at the center of the hub on the center.

As far as the stalling is concerned, drive the car until it does it, then, when convenient, park the car, put it in Park and leave the engine running, then run the codes again and list them back here. Only after you have all the codes written down do you turn off the key; when you turn off the key all the codes go to History and you can't tell which ones just got set by a problem.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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The '96's ROCK. Don't get rid of it. it was the last year of a 4 year run, so all the kinks were worked out in the '93's, '94's, and '95's. Most of the time it's something simple that really can scare you.

Seems no tools might be required to fix this one. just look under the driver wheel for an electrical connector that leads to the wheel. make sure it's plugged in, and make sure none of the wires are pinched or cut. I'm sure that's all it is. also make sure when the battery was re-connected, the inside & outside of the terminals were cleaned, and the bolts are nice & tight. they are prone to corrosion build up on the terminals because of the heat under the hood generated by a N*, the side mount terminals, and the tight quarters under there.

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I WISH I had my 96!!!!!

Check your battery connections carefully, especially the positive cable, you may have a bad intermittant connection setting off codes, you have a lot of power codes going on.

Take the positive cable apart, take the red insulator off and clean inside, the lug between the cables, cable ends, etc,

Use baking soda and water, or battery terminal cleaner

When you tighten the connection, when its tight, grab the cables to make sure they are tight and the bolt does not bottom out before the cables are tight, the lead in the joint can crush down and cause the bolt to bottom out

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Winterset, I didnt see your post where you commented on the battery connection, we are on the same page

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Thanks guys so much I reset the codes and when my husband and I drove to dinner at olive garden tonight the abs and traction light came on again.....so i ran the diagnostic and the only code I got this time was TC0027.....which I'm assuming is a good thing:-) We recently had an ice and snow storm could that have anything to do with it? I'm really hoping its simple because I do love my caddy:-) And these lights didn't start coming on until we replaced the alternator....could that have caused any problems? Should we check the fuses? Thanks again everyone....you've been a huge help:-)

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It does not seem that you are getting codes that are related to the alternator but check the battery cables to eliminate the possiblity that you have a connection problem. I do not see this as an alternator problem at all,

See this thread

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=31262&st=0&p=171152&hl=TC0027&fromsearch=1entry171152

see Vern Warren's post in this one and follow his directions

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=17280&st=0&p=123163&hl=TC0027&fromsearch=1entry123163

Let us know if that helps

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Thanks again I will have my husband check the battery connection....and as far as the TC0027 code would that make both the abs and traction lights come on? Also could it possibly be a short due to the crazy snow we've had lately? Also sorry for all the questions but where is the sensor located that I need to check? Thanks again.

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All I can say is read my review. I have a 96 Deville almost 200000 miles and runs and drives like new.

Sounds like either faulty hub assembly or bad connection.

Many areas were touched around the same time but disconnecting the battery will always throw some cdes, and also sometimes when the battery is disconnected you have to an idle relearn, thus the throttle problem, should clear up after a few trips. if not a code should have the explanation

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Not bad at all cheaper hubs run about $85 better around $150. I would recommend fixing it now because at this time it is a easy fix but if the problem persists other problems may arise (ABS pump) and also the traction control is affected. The hub assembly is not difficult to replace for an experienced DIYer. the hub and bearing is 1 piece so it is much easier

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Thanks again one more question....how do I know which hub sensor it is?

It is the LEFT FRONT...

T027 LF Wheel Speed Sensor Continuity Fault

It may be unplugged...

Maybe a chunk of ice hit it and partially disconnected it.

Maybe it got knocked loose when you were replacing the radiator...

The sensor itself may be bad...

FIRST THING is to LOOK AT IT and see if it is unplugged.

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The ABS and traction control both need wheel spin information, and the TC00027 is telling you that the left front wheel speed sensor is disconnected, so, yes, the problem will disable both ABS and traction control. The sensor is in the center of the hub of the wheel on the inside. The problem is most likley a loose or pulled-off connector on the sensor, or possibly a bad wire or connection farther up the wiring harness. And, yes, a mechanic could have accidentally disturbed this wiring while working on the alternator because he needs to check the wiring of the battery cable, and one of the battery cables runs past the LF wheel to the main car electrical distribution point, a pair of fuse/relay centers just in front of the left strut tower.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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....I had a lot of problems finding explanations for the codes... don't know why.

The OBDII standard code definitions were mandated effective for cars manufactured on or after 1/1/1996. The potential problem occurs when someone has a 1996 model year car that was built prior to 1/1/1996. Prior to 1/1/1996 the code definition could easily be a hybrid composed of the "old" OBD definition and the "new" OBDII definition.

This little text file has not failed to decifer the definitions for 1996 models built in 1995. Simply search on the numerical portion of the DTC (forget about the letters). Much more reliable and faster than an Internet look-up!!

96+ OBDII GM DTCs.txt

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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....I had a lot of problems finding explanations for the codes... don't know why.

The OBDII standard code definitions were mandated effective for cars manufactured on or after 1/1/1996. The potential problem occurs when someone has a 1996 model year car that was built prior to 1/1/1996. Prior to 1/1/1996 the code definition could easily be a hybrid composed of the "old" OBD definition and the "new" OBDII definition.

This little text file has not failed to decifer the definitions for 1996 models built in 1995. Simply search on the numerical portion of the DTC (forget about the letters). Much more reliable and faster than an Internet look-up!!

Thank you..

I saved it to my docs... next time I will have it...:)

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Thanks everyone for your help I will have my husband check it today and I'll keep you all informed:-)

I believe the ABS/TC error clears at every ignition cycle. It's a good thing that it doesn't come on immediately upon moving because it means the hub does work. From my experience, if the hub is bad, it'll come on right away. Intermitent means it's a loose connection. Yes Snow & Ice can cause this. an ice/snow mound could have loosened things, or over the last 17 years, salt could have got into something it shouldln't have. moving wires around removing splash shields & such could have moved something just enough to trigger this. anything can happen on a car of this vintage.

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