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Changing Spark Plugs


mike33

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I'm thinking of chnaging spark plugs on my 2002 Deville DHS. I notice on the rear bank of four plugs there is a Air Shut Off valve bolted on the cover. What procedure do you use? The service manual says raise the vehicle to remove the bolt that connects this to the exhaust manifold? Anybody out there change these on their own, similiar year Northstar as mine?

Thanks in advance, Mike

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If your car is approaching 100,000 miles, then it is probably a good idea to change the plugs, otherwise, I'd leave them alone. If the shop manual states to remove the air valve, you most likely will need to do this to access the plugs.

Use only the AC Delco plugs that your shop manual calls for. Do not use any anti-sieze on the plug threads and do not use any silicone grease on the wires. Torque the plugs to the value specified in the shop manual.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I'm thinking of chnaging spark plugs on my 2002 Deville DHS. I notice on the rear bank of four plugs there is a Air Shut Off valve bolted on the cover. What procedure do you use? The service manual says raise the vehicle to remove the bolt that connects this to the exhaust manifold? Anybody out there change these on their own, similiar year Northstar as mine?

Thanks in advance, Mike

Thanks KHE, I'm good on all those facts. I actually would love to hear from someone who has done this procedure and removed the air valve etc. Tks!

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I'm thinking of chnaging spark plugs on my 2002 Deville DHS. I notice on the rear bank of four plugs there is a Air Shut Off valve bolted on the cover. What procedure do you use? The service manual says raise the vehicle to remove the bolt that connects this to the exhaust manifold? Anybody out there change these on their own, similiar year Northstar as mine?

Thanks in advance, Mike

Thanks KHE, I'm good on all those facts. I actually would love to hear from someone who has done this procedure and removed the air valve etc. Tks!

After you change your plugs, post back on this thread - I am also interested in how difficult it is to remove the air valve, etc. I have a lot of miles before I will need to do the job on my '05 Deville.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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UH-OH I used antiseize on my plugs!!What's the danger?

It can foul the tip, here is information out of the FSM, it does not specifically state not to use the anti-sieze but you can see that the threads are treated to prevent seizing, etc. Do not remove the plugs to clean them now, as you will have disrupted the coating, see this

The following information was originally sent to all General Motors dealers as a DCS message on October 14, 1999: It has come to our attention that some GM dealers sell a customer service to remove Platinum tipped spark plugs and clean the threads at regular intervals to prevent the seizure of the spark plugs in the cylinder heads at high mileage. Platinum tipped spark plugs are designed to operate under normal vehicle operating conditions for up to 100,000 miles (160,000 kms) without periodic maintenance. When no engine performance concerns are present, platinum tipped spark plugs should not be removed for periodic inspection and cleaning of threads, doing so would compromise the spark plugs ability to withstand their corrosive environment. The threaded area, although not sealed, serves as a protective environment against most harmful elements. Removing and cleaning spark plugs will introduce metallic debris and brush scrapings into the thread area which may further the corrosion process. Chromate coated spark plugs should not be wire brushed or handled in any way once they are put in service. Chromium topcoats form a protective oxide on spark plugs that is not effective if scratched. Both coated and uncoated spark plugs will have the best chance of surviving a corrosive environment if they are left in position. Attempts to maintain spark plugs by removing them and cleaning the threads can actually create the corrosive condition that the procedure was intended to prevent.

Here is info on the dielectric grease usage, this is a good reason to use AC DELCO ignition wires as you know they are treated

Dielectricgrease.jpg

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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UH-OH I used antiseize on my plugs!!What's the danger?

In addition to BBF's comments in post #6, the introduction of an aftermarket chemcial to the threads will cause the plug torque value to be inaccurate. Not a death sentence, but removing the plugs "next time" could be more difficult.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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....It has come to our attention that some GM dealers sell a customer service to....

All car owners should note the language above.

Be aware of the difference between manufacturer service interval recommendations and dealer service interval recommendations. Which boils down to reading the Owners Manual and/or staying far away from the dealer after the warranty expires.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Thanx for the info BBF and JimD...I have the Haynes shop manual(sadly enough) and I'm pretty sure they indicate an application of antiseize on the threads only,I'll double check. Hopefully there's no damage done, Thanks again guys!

look1-1-1.jpg
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This is definitely all great info, however I'm still hoping to hear from someone who has had the experience of removing the Air Shut Off during the process of changing the plugs??

Thanks!

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Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Shut-Off Valve Replacement - Bank 1

Raise the vehicle

Remove the two nuts securing the outlet pipe to the exhaust manifold.

Lower the vehicle

Disconnect the bank 1 intermediate pipe/hose from the bank 1 AIR shut-off valve

Remove the vacuum lines connected to the bank 1 AIR shut-off valve

Remove the three bolts securing the AIR shut-off valve to the engine

Remove the AIR shut-off valve from the bank 1 AIR outlet pipe

Reverse steps to install

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Yep, I know. Just hoping to find someone out there who has actually performed this procedure.

Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Shut-Off Valve Replacement - Bank 1

Raise the vehicle

Remove the two nuts securing the outlet pipe to the exhaust manifold.

Lower the vehicle

Disconnect the bank 1 intermediate pipe/hose from the bank 1 AIR shut-off valve

Remove the vacuum lines connected to the bank 1 AIR shut-off valve

Remove the three bolts securing the AIR shut-off valve to the engine

Remove the AIR shut-off valve from the bank 1 AIR outlet pipe

Reverse steps to install

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We are here to help you, intended or not intended your posts convey an ungreatful attitude. No one is getting paid here to be at your service. I do not recall anyone actually doing this job, but the job is a cake walk

Here is a photo

SecondaryAirInjection02.gif

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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....No one is getting paid here to be at your service.

In fact, some of us are paying happy.gif

I am all for shutting the site down and charging for entry, I think we all provide a valuable service. I pay more for applications that the annual fee here

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I didn't get the impression that mike33 intended to offend anyone - he's just looking for someone who has done the job before. Just my opinion though.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Probably not intended as I noted also, its probably a stylistic thing

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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  • 1 month later...

I didn't get the impression that mike33 intended to offend anyone - he's just looking for someone who has done the job before. Just my opinion though.

Thanks all. I was not at all trying to be rude. Just sincerely wanted to find someone who has actually performed this service. I guess when you have plugs that can run way past 100k, not to many have done them yet!

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  • 4 weeks later...

I too would very much like to hear from someone who has done it....

I've been gone for awhile, but since I started missing my 97 Eldo roughly ten seconds after I sold it, I finally re-acquired, and I now am the proud owner of a 2001 ESC. Dark green with a tan top. It needs some TLC and a good home, but it has a lot of basic goodness, and I am enjoying it, and getting a lot of nice compliments.

And yes, I still have the Escalade, and I still love it.

Anyways, back to the topic at hand...

I don't see any "cake walk" whatsoever.... I'm not gonna lie, I'm baffled.

I've pulled the 3 bolts... nothing's moving.

I'm reviewing these steps... this seems a little vague...

Raise the vehicle

Remove the two nuts securing the outlet pipe to the exhaust manifold.

Lower the vehicle

Okay, so I gotta get under the car and remove 2 bolts?? That I didn't see coming... okay...

Disconnect the bank 1 intermediate pipe/hose from the bank 1 AIR shut-off valve

Which one is the intermediate pipe hose?? Is this the silver one, with the crimped on fitting on 1 side?? Does it just pull off from the air valve??? Guessing, don't know. If it is the silver one, does this lead to the pump I have to replace, because I have a P0410 code?? Just wondering.... Anyways, back to this.

Remove the vacuum lines connected to the bank 1 AIR shut-off valve

Which ones are the vacuum lines?? Are these the tiny black ones??? Do they just pull off???

Remove the three bolts securing the AIR shut-off valve to the engine

I think I've done that....

Remove the AIR shut-off valve from the bank 1 AIR outlet pipe

Remove from the outlet pipe?? There only seems to be 2 pipes... If I'm removing it from below, do I need to remove the upper part from the pipe???

I feel like I'm getting more confused the more I think about this... And I haven't even started drinking yet.

I realize nobody works here, nobody owes me an answer, or anything. At the risk of sounding like the Original Poster, has anyone done this?? Any tips?? Any digital pics of this???

I did the front bank, so I get the concept of the coil pack cartridge, and the rubber things, and the 8 bolts, and all of that. I feel certain that if I could get the air valve off, I could get this done...

Anyway, thanks very much.... Try not to flame me too badly...

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I have a 2002 STS with the same valve at the top of the rear cylinder bank. The same instructions for removal apply to my car.

Just guessing here but in my case there was just enough space to remove the rear coil pack after removing the valve, i.e. no need to raise the vehicle etc. etc.

But I mean JUST enough. Could be tolerances in manufacturing working to my advantage though.

The reason I did this was that the coil-pack/ignition control module failed at just above 20000 miles. I did change plugs, but that was only because some retard had changed the plugs (dealer service as opposed to manufacturer service as mentioned before?) and they also had the wrong gap.

Wouldn't be too surprised if that was what made the ignition module/coil pack go south...

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I too would very much like to hear from someone who has done it....

I've been gone for awhile, but since I started missing my 97 Eldo roughly ten seconds after I sold it, I finally re-acquired, and I now am the proud owner of a 2001 ESC. Dark green with a tan top. It needs some TLC and a good home, but it has a lot of basic goodness, and I am enjoying it, and getting a lot of nice compliments.

And yes, I still have the Escalade, and I still love it.

Anyways, back to the topic at hand...

I don't see any "cake walk" whatsoever.... I'm not gonna lie, I'm baffled.

I've pulled the 3 bolts... nothing's moving.

I'm reviewing these steps... this seems a little vague...

Raise the vehicle

Remove the two nuts securing the outlet pipe to the exhaust manifold.

Lower the vehicle

Okay, so I gotta get under the car and remove 2 bolts?? That I didn't see coming... okay...

Disconnect the bank 1 intermediate pipe/hose from the bank 1 AIR shut-off valve

Which one is the intermediate pipe hose?? Is this the silver one, with the crimped on fitting on 1 side?? Does it just pull off from the air valve??? Guessing, don't know. If it is the silver one, does this lead to the pump I have to replace, because I have a P0410 code?? Just wondering.... Anyways, back to this.

Remove the vacuum lines connected to the bank 1 AIR shut-off valve

Which ones are the vacuum lines?? Are these the tiny black ones??? Do they just pull off???

Remove the three bolts securing the AIR shut-off valve to the engine

I think I've done that....

Remove the AIR shut-off valve from the bank 1 AIR outlet pipe

Remove from the outlet pipe?? There only seems to be 2 pipes... If I'm removing it from below, do I need to remove the upper part from the pipe???

I feel like I'm getting more confused the more I think about this... And I haven't even started drinking yet.

I realize nobody works here, nobody owes me an answer, or anything. At the risk of sounding like the Original Poster, has anyone done this?? Any tips?? Any digital pics of this???

I did the front bank, so I get the concept of the coil pack cartridge, and the rubber things, and the 8 bolts, and all of that. I feel certain that if I could get the air valve off, I could get this done...

Anyway, thanks very much.... Try not to flame me too badly...

I posted a photo of the valve in post 13 of this thread.

Patrick, I know that you have not been around, but as you know, there is no problem with asking for help. USUALLY, we do as much as we can, if someone has done the job, they chime in, and post.

What tweaked me, was the first post looking for people who did this job, followed by post 10, again looking for people who did this job. I took exception to this in post 10

This is definitely all great info, however I'm still hoping to hear from someone who has had the experience of removing the Air Shut Off during the process of changing the plugs??

As I said, we all try to help, but the pushiness to me was rude. Hey Kevin didnt think so, but I guess I am more sensitive than Kevin..

Welcome back

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Follow the instructions given by BBF.

You could try to do what I did, i.e. remove the three bolts holding the bracket for the valve, loosen the rubber-hose clamp and carefully bend the entire unit away. The flexible metal hose will budge, perhaps just enough to let you remove the rear coil-pack without having to remove the flexible tubing as the FSM mentions.

I can understand that you are somewhat impatient, but I'll have to agree with the others.

We are here just because it is fun and that we are willing to help for free. Many of the users here are paying to keep the forum running, that is quite a difference from calling the dealer support...

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Follow the instructions given by BBF.

You could try to do what I did, i.e. remove the three bolts holding the bracket for the valve, loosen the rubber-hose clamp and carefully bend the entire unit away. The flexible metal hose will budge, perhaps just enough to let you remove the rear coil-pack without having to remove the flexible tubing as the FSM mentions.

I can understand that you are somewhat impatient, but I'll have to agree with the others.

We are here just because it is fun and that we are willing to help for free. Many of the users here are paying to keep the forum running, that is quite a difference from calling the dealer support...

I just changed plugs on my 01 Deville a few weeks ago. I just removed the 3 bolts, then the 2 nuts that hold the pipe to the valve. After the vale is remove the pipe will swing against the firewall. I had to twist the engine a bit to get the coil cassette out. But no need to disconnect anything under the car.

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Can some one help i have an 1999 cadillac sts i need to know the right spark plugs gap size i have been told .050 to .055 and also .060

I had it set to .055 And it run ok I redid it to .050 and the car will stop running some times not all the time.

can some one tell the right gap size.

Thanks

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