Harmonic Balancer

[KHE]

There are many special tools that are required to properly service a Northstar engine. A torque angle meter is mandatory when installing installing head bolts. To change out a water pump, the special socket is required. To remove the water pump belt pulley from the camshft requires the puller or the camshaft will be damaged. To repair threads in the head bolt holes, a Timesert kit is required, etc. Those are just some of the tools - there are many others for the engine and not to mention, the transmission. Some holding fixtures, etc. can be improvised but I would not put those into the 99% bracket...

Torque to angle is a common method of specifying torque - it neglects friction and provides a much more consistant clamping force. That is what the design criteria is when torque to angle is specified. The initial torque is to establish the reference point and "X" degrees coupled with the thread pitch equals a very precise travel/clamping force. The bolt strength is not maxed out at the 37 ft-lbs +120 degrees but rather, the required designed clamping force is attained.

[clarkz71]

According to my 1995 FSM the harmonic balancer bolt gets tightened to 44 ft lbs then 120 degrees. Kevin, is the 97 FSM different? The bolt on a 95 is a M18mm x 48.4 and the hex is a 24mm

It won't break a tooth.

Why chance it?

[KHE]

According to my 1995 FSM the harmonic balancer bolt gets tightened to 44 ft lbs then 120 degrees. Kevin, is the 97 FSM different? The bolt on a 95 is a M18mm x 48.4 and the hex is a 24mm

It won't break a tooth.

Why chance it?

The '96 FSM that I have specs. 37 ft-lbs plus 120 degrees for the balancer bolt. I don't recall where the 105 ft-lbs came from.

[BigCat83]

Well now...bought a new impact gun at Sears tonight on my way home from work. IR rated at 1000 pound feet reverse torque. Didn't touch the crank screw! My next trick is to lock the flexplate, use my 1/2 inch breaker bar and 4 ft. of cheater pipe and jack it up with my floor jack...

[Cadillac Jim]

You might just leave the flywheel alone and fire up that sucker on the balancer bolt. Either it will just do the job or it will spin the engine. If the engine spins, then you can lock the flex plate.

[Ranger]

bought a new impact gun at Sears tonight on my way home from work. IR rated at 1000 pound feet reverse torque. Didn't touch the crank screw!

Yikes! You might have to blast.

[KHE]

Well now...bought a new impact gun at Sears tonight on my way home from work. IR rated at 1000 pound feet reverse torque. Didn't touch the crank screw! My next trick is to lock the flexplate, use my 1/2 inch breaker bar and 4 ft. of cheater pipe and jack it up with my floor jack...

Once you lock the flywheel, it should come off with the impact wrench.

[billytheshoe]

Well now...bought a new impact gun at Sears tonight on my way home from work. IR rated at 1000 pound feet reverse torque. Didn't touch the crank screw! My next trick is to lock the flexplate, use my 1/2 inch breaker bar and 4 ft. of cheater pipe and jack it up with my floor jack...

Once you lock the flywheel, it should come off with the impact wrench.

Do you have enough psi@cfm going to the gun? The half inch guns may not do it at 150psi with a 1/4" or 3/8" line.

[BigCat83]

[Once you lock the flywheel, it should come off with the impact wrench.

Do you have enough psi@cfm going to the gun? The half inch guns may not do it at 150psi with a 1/4" or 3/8" line.

Good question...I'm going to try crank up the pressure through the regulator tomorrow (spent all today drinking cold ones and disconnecting the last few items}. My Kent-Moore flywheel lock is due Monday. I hope THAT makes the difference.

I believe I discovered that the cause of my problem is with the center two cylinders on the rear bank - those runners on the exhaust pipe have been steam cleaned. Believe me it is obvious... Got that all apart today and the evidence of coolant in that section of the exhaust was the first thing I saw. I pulled the head bolts out of the front head today and all appeared to be fine with that head.

In all honesty...what a PIA this job is.

[Cadillac Jim]

A PIA the job is, but with TimeSerts and regular maintenance including coolant changes, your Northstar will outlast two of your neighbor's Toyotas.

I wish you and all all the best for Christmas or Hanukah and the coming New Year.

[BigCat83]

A PIA the job is, but with TimeSerts and regular maintenance including coolant changes, your Northstar will outlast two of your neighbor's Toyotas.

I wish you and all all the best for Christmas or Hanukah and the coming New Year.

Thank you Jim, likewise to you and yours. And to everyone else who posts here.

I am planning on keeping it for many years to come. Though I am planning on adding another car.

I would love a black on black XLR but the cost is a bit rich for my pocketbook. A black on black C5 'Vette is definitely a possibility...

Jim is your Eldo Dark Cherry in color?

Can you tell us about it if it is?

Thanks

[BodybyFisher]

In all honesty...what a PIA this job is.

Hang in there, I can only image how much of a PIA it is. That is why I think we should have a Hall of Fame for DIY Timeserters, it's a Herculean accomplishment and worth honoring.

[BigCat83]

[Hang in there, I can only image how much of a PIA it is. That is why I think we should have a Hall of Fame for DIY Timeserters, it's a Herculean accomplishment and worth honoring.

"Herculean"!? LOL Yes it is. I've often thought that I must be whacked to do this (actually couldn't find a local shop willing to undertake this "Herculean" effort).

"Herculean" makes me feel better about myself, 'cause I thought I was just nuts.

Thanks.

[BodybyFisher]

When you get a chance, do a search on our timeserters, I am humbled every time I see the process. I would rather not single out anyone individually because I would not want to slight anyone's accomplishment. That is the reason I would like to see a Hall of Fame, it me, this job is at the pinnacle of DIY accomplishments.

[BigCat83]

"this job is at the pinnacle of DIY accomplishments"

Or mental illness...

[BodybyFisher]

I have said, that I want to do this job one day, maybe I AM mentally ill

[Cadillac Jim]

Jim is your Eldo Dark Cherry in color?

Can you tell us about it if it is?

Yes, it is Dark Cherry. As you know, it was offered only in the 1994-1997 model years. I have a car blog:

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showforum=36

I'm overdue for an update there. A thumbnail about my car:

• I bought the car new in October 1997 in the Los Angeles area.
• Was trying to buy a 1998 Corvette but couldn't get the Chevrolet side of the dealership to show me an option sheet. Cadillac side sold me an ETC because I was over there looking at the ETC and STS while trying to figure out how to get a Corvette option sheet. I didn't like the color (!!!) but this was the only leftover 1997 in shipping distance that had all the options (everything except the butt warmer, engine block warmer, and electric windshield deicer but hey, this was L.A., not Nome). After about a week, I fell in love with Dark Cherry and am very proud of it.
• Currently have about 122,500 miles on it.
• Plan to drive it at least four or five more years.
• Got a Jasper remanufactured engine in July of this year, at about 116,500 miles. The moment was defined by head leakage, and I wasn't up to a TimeSert job in my garage – I need the car every day and I didn't have the room or time to do the job. The oil seal was seeping pretty well, and it burned a quart of oil every 1500 miles. This combination of three things and my need for the car every day, with postings here on Caddyinfo, led me to decide on a remanufactured engine by Jasper.
• Recently was rear-ended and exhaust system was wiped out; Cadillac was out of stock with the left muffler and tips; now have 1994 STS tips, Borla ProXS mufflers part number 40358, and a Magnaflow High-Flow catalytic converter part number 94009.
• Still haven't done the first brake job (I love to drive, but I hate to stop!).
• Car's only problem is an occasional Memory Seat Module code, caused by an intermittent position sensor on the lumbar support. It's on my Priority C list of things to do.

Enough here before Bruce calls us for hijacking a thread. Let me know if you can't see my blog.

[KHE]

[Hang in there, I can only image how much of a PIA it is. That is why I think we should have a Hall of Fame for DIY Timeserters, it's a Herculean accomplishment and worth honoring.

"Herculean"!? LOL Yes it is. I've often thought that I must be whacked to do this (actually couldn't find a local shop willing to undertake this "Herculean" effort).

"Herculean" makes me feel better about myself, 'cause I thought I was just nuts.

Thanks.

I did the job on my '97 STS. If I found a good deal on a '99 Deville with bad head gaskets, I'd do the job again.

[BodybyFisher]

Like I said, these timeserters are fearless, herculean types.. If you look at KHE's timesert thread you see it was business as usual, no panic, cut and dry! His timesert thread reads like NASA doing a dangerous maneuver in space very matter of fact... These timeserters have big coconuts... My hat is off..

[BigCat83]

Like I said, these timeserters are fearless, herculean types.. If you look at KHE's timesert thread you see it was business as usual, no panic, cut and dry! His timesert thread reads like NASA doing a dangerous maneuver in space very matter of fact... These timeserters have big coconuts... My hat is off..

Hercules Jr. here...

So far this is what I've found:

Front head everything appears to be fine. The head bolts were in tight, took a lot of bawls to break 'em loose and they came out clean. Apparently no problems with the head gasket.

The rear head is another story however.... Four of the head bolts were loose, the remaining six were almost loose - required very little effort to break 'em loose. All ten had lost their grip in the block. They all had aluminum stuck to them, the threads on several were absolutely encrusted with carbon. Doesn't look look good but I'll know when I knock it loose, lift it off and have a look.

Hercules Jr. reporting...

[KHE]

Like I said, these timeserters are fearless, herculean types.. If you look at KHE's timesert thread you see it was business as usual, no panic, cut and dry! His timesert thread reads like NASA doing a dangerous maneuver in space very matter of fact... These timeserters have big coconuts... My hat is off..

Hercules Jr. here...

So far this is what I've found:

Front head everything appears to be fine. The head bolts were in tight, took a lot of bawls to break 'em loose and they came out clean. Apparently no problems with the head gasket.

The rear head is another story however.... Four of the head bolts were loose, the remaining six were almost loose - required very little effort to break 'em loose. All ten had lost their grip in the block. They all had aluminum stuck to them, the threads on several were absolutely encrusted with carbon. Doesn't look look good but I'll know when I knock it loose, lift it off and have a look.

Hercules Jr. reporting...

The rear head hasket was definitely the problem. You can tell when a head bolt holds as when loosened, it will make a "crack" sound as it breaks free. From your descriotion, the front bolts were fine but Timesert both sides (all 20 bolts) to provide a bulletproof repair.

Do not set the heads where the valves will contact anything as it is very easy to bend a valve - make sure the head is supported such that the valves do not contact anything.

[BigCat83]

Thanks,

I have some 4X4 blocks to set the heads upon when they're off.

I'll be glad when this Herculean Task is finished...

"Holy S**t! Where's the Tylenol?"

[KHE]

Thanks,

I have some 4X4 blocks to set the heads upon when they're off.

I'll be glad when this Herculean Task is finished...

"Holy S**t! Where's the Tylenol?"

When I repaired my car, I set them on my bench and let the exhaust manifold support them along with one edge of the head. That kept the head at an angle and the valves clear of the bench. Be sure to put newspaper under the head to absorb the oil that will seep out while you're working on the rest of the engine.

Get some Permatex gasket remover spray to remove the gasket residue and only use plastic or wood scrapers to remove the residue. The Permatex spray is great stuff and takes all the work out of removing the gasket residue.

You will discover many muscles you never knew you had - as far as a pain killer, gin or bourbon is what I used...

[BigCat83]

Thanks,

I have some 4X4 blocks to set the heads upon when they're off.

I'll be glad when this Herculean Task is finished...

"Holy S**t! Where's the Tylenol?"

When I repaired my car, I set them on my bench and let the exhaust manifold support them along with one edge of the head. That kept the head at an angle and the valves clear of the bench. Be sure to put newspaper under the head to absorb the oil that will seep out while you're working on the rest of the engine.

Get some Permatex gasket remover spray to remove the gasket residue and only use plastic or wood scrapers to remove the residue. The Permatex spray is great stuff and takes all the work out of removing the gasket residue.

You will discover many muscles you never knew you had - as far as a pain killer, gin or bourbon is what I used...

I like Johnny Walker Black. Settles me right down. I know that when this nightmare is over I'm gonna take this Eldo for an Italian Tuneup over the Howard Frankland Bridge (6 miles over Tampa Bay) and back and see if it will provide me with the mental enema I'll need.

Now I just gotta get that GD harmonic balancer screw off...

[KHE]

Whatever works

When I finished my car, I took it out on a test run of about 5 miles. All was OK so I filled it up with gas and then put it through the paces.....