rockfangd

The ongoing Deville thread

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I am having the current engine replaced.

I am keeping my old engine.

I already have a engine stand :yupi3ti:

thanks for the tip on storage

I am hoping to tear down the old engine over the winter and inspect it carefully. It might be cool to stud the block if that is possible. Now that you have a Deville, I need to send you that stuff I promised you, especially since you love the 96, I didn't know that. You are going to love it. Ill PM you the address I have for you, I think you changed it.


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Rockfangd, based on what Jim wrote am I missing something?

Are you timeserting your engine now?

The job DOES NOT demand a lift if you do decide to do this job. As a matter of fact, I don't think that anyone here that did a timesert job or engine swap had a lift, we used the Logan bolt drop method. I built I dolly out of 2x4s and freewheeling wheels

In addition NO transmission jack is used in the engine R&R.

I bought a 1 ton engine stand at Harbor Freight that worked perfect for $60, cheaper than renting.

I was under the impression from your prior post that you were HAVING the engine replaced, if you decided to do this based on the direction that Jims post went above, if you need ANY help let me know, I just now swapped an engine in a 97 Eldorado including moving the 300HP intake cams over to the new engine that was a 275HP variant (9 vs Y) and I can help you extensively. I did the swap and had NO codes on start up and she purrs!

I have tons of photos

I greatly appreciate the offer of help. I am excited to tear one down as I have not done so yet


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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We will compare notes.


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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So I stopped to the shop today and was very surprised to find they already had it ripped apart and the replacement engine in the cradle.

I dropped off the coolant pipes and hoses.

OE thermostat.

The car is nice and solid underneath. Even the exhaust pipe looked great.

They said it is going very well.

I am keeping my fingers crossed. I honestly never expected to even see it in the shop already.

Maybe I will have it before xmas. Not counting on it but it would be nice


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Terrific! Sounds promising. How did the hvac plastic cover look? Mine was cracked to heck and brittle.


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Mine was flawless. I hope it will be when it is done. I must have been lucky. My 96 fell apart shortly after I bought it


GM FAN FOREVER

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I know this may be a question without a good answer but is there any way to prevent or prolong future failure on the replacement engine?

Other than changing the coolant bi annually

Monitoring the waterpump, belt, and tensioner

And driving it hard like it is designed to be.

Also is there any ways to tell if a engine has been repaired without tearing too much apart? would be nice to know.

Also prolonging or preventing the crankcase oil leak would be nice.


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I believe continued use of the GM recommended bars powder helps. IMO It keeps coolant out of the head bolt threads, and from between the gaskets, etc. When i flush and refill every 4 years with the orange stuff, i add a tube.

The only reason GM stopped recommending is because uninformed owners thought their coolant turned to muddy rust.

So far, its's been working on my '96

Also, this may not sound like much fun, but don't redline or near redline the engine.

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One of the problems I have is that the current SN oils have 700 to 800 ppm of ZDDP including Mobil 1 synthetic. I have seen excessive wear on lifters and that may be a contributing cause. If you recall the guru said that due to the 32 rubbing element lifters the 93 to 99 Northstars can take all the anti-wear compound that you can "throw at them". I am aware that he also said that the oil life monitor has a margin of safety built into it and we can continue to rely on the OLM and some here have said that they wont go to ZERO percent and will change it at say 25% remaining oil life I think JimD said that, but don't quote me. In 1996/1997 SM oils had 1200 ppm ZDDP.

I spoke to and corresponded with Shell's technical support regarding Rotella 10W30. Rotella 10W30 has a minimum of 1200 ppm of ZDDP. They also told me that as a result of its SM 1200 ppm classification he speaks to many muscle car owners who use Rotella.

I plan to use 10W30 Rotella that I can easily and cheaply buy from Walmart exclusively in 93 to 99 NSs for the added protection.

Keep in mind that the guru recommended the Rotella.

Now here is a twist, I recommended that my friend use 10W30 Rotella in his 98 NS. He went to the dealer and the dealer said not to use it, its for diesel engines..ugh...duh, what the heck to you think the dealer is going to say?, does anyone think they would recommend WOTs?, not likely. Personally I trust the guru and the input from Shell and that SM oils have at least 1200 ppm ZDDP.

KHE adds a zddp dose to his oil with GM EOS if I am not mistaken, but I will let him pop in on this.

I would pay attention to ZDDP levels in the 93 to 99 NSs due to oil sheer caused by the 32 rubbing element lifters and the fact that "oil changers" will undoubtedly use an SN oil with its 800 ppm zinc. SM Rotella has 50% more ZDDP than a typical SN oil.


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Not to disagree with winterset, but my opinion is that redline is OK but don't overdo it. Let the PCM decide when to shift, never hold it in a lower gear to reline yourself, for example. A good policy if you are over 4500 RPM is to have the transmission in the next higher gear or in Drive and the throttle to the floor; and don't hold the RPM steady over 4500 RPM. I got the figure of 4500 RPM because someone here once posted that the rev limiter, active only when the transmission is in Neutral or Park, is set at 4500 RPM.

A good VIN 9 engine will let the tach wander a bit in the dotted red region on a full-throttle shift. But the PCM will never let the engine rev to the solid red. The 1997 FSM says not to run the engine in the red region; my opinion above extends that to "don't run the engine steadily above 4500 RPM" as a very conservative thing.

Other than not holding the engine in gear to redline, the only thing to add is that if you are pulling a steep hill in the mountains or some such and are using WOT, up-shift if the RPMs stop building quickly with the tach over 4500 RPM. Hard to imagine but it can happen in 3rd when driving West out of Jackson WY on State Route 22 up into the mountains or some such.

When using the engine for braking, don't let the RPM go over 4500. Use the brake, and keep the speed down to avoid overheating the brakes. IMHO, if you are driving down a mountain grade with engine braking and gravity starts to exceed the engine braking capability, you should use the brakes to bring the speed down to manage the brake temperature; letting the speed get too high on a steep downgrade can, in lesser cars or in trucks, put you in a situation where the tipping point of runaway, when you no longer have braking capacity to control your speed, is approaching.


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-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Update 12/23.

I picked up the car and old engine today.

I am incredibly happy to be back into a Deville. I drove 60 miles with it and it ran beautiful.

The hottest the coolant temp got was 201 at a red light. And it was only for a few seconds. It stayed very steady at 196. Which was how my 96 always was.

So tonight I replaced the left muffler and welded the intermediate pipe. It is now so quiet you could hear a pin drop.

I have some bugs to work out but it takes time. If this car stays working like it is I am going to love it. I already do.

I have to get the wipers working properly. It was raining tonight and I had no wipers.

Something is wrong with the throttle, engine has good power but throttle only pushes halfway. I will check this out in the morning. It was not like this before the engine job.


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Congrats, I am happy for you. Sounds good. The throttle issue should be obvious to you when you get in there


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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it was. I hope. The cable was popped into the socket at the TB but was outside of the curved part. Amazing it worked at all.

I also ordered the moisture sensor for the rainsense wipers. Hopefully that will resolve the issue but I think there is something more going on


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Terrific!


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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You can downgrade your wipers to intermittant. Just swap the head off a standard wiper motor, and re-configure the wires in the new harness. The stick works hi,med,lo,off, and rain sense sensitivity is downgraded to a timer.

How do i know this? I was upgradng to rain sense till i could not gethe adhesive for the module on the windshield. Also i did not like that every time the car is started, the wiper makes a swipe across the dry windshield,

I wish you lots of enjoyment as you get back to the boat.

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I have a extra kit. I bought 2 of them just in case. I am so glad you know something about it.

I have a spare motor from a standard setup kicking around. I assume the motors are the same but the covers are different. I think I am having issues with the motor module also. Likely a bad ground in or to the module


GM FAN FOREVER

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Congrats on cruising in a Deville again. Sounds like a multi meter is going to be your friend for the wiper problem.

I'd rather be driving with a good engine and no wipers, compared to perfect wipers and sitting in driveway overheating. Lol.

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lol. I agree.


GM FAN FOREVER

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Update 12/27/15

I figured out the wiper and washer issue today. I think it all stemmed from whenever whoever unplugged the rainsensor.

I unplugged and inspected the plug to the wiper motor and found all of the pins were opened completely in the plug.

I used a thumbtack to reposition the pins.

I then retried the wipers. Keep in mind without a rain sensor plugged in.

Int caused them to come up one time but go back to the upward parked position(normal)

high and low work great.

wash still inop.

So I decided to plug in the rain sensor and voila the wash feature works now, and if I ran my hand by the sensor it cycled the wipers.

So They work properly. I have the new rain sensor ordered and once it is installed it should all work properly.

What I think happened is that when the rainsensor was unplugged it made the intermittent and wash stop working, so someone likely tried probing the plug at the wiper motor to try to figure it out. (you can tell it has been messed with) and made it worse.


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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the module comes complete with adhesive.

The module I tried (used) is damaged in the sensing area. IE looks like a razor blade was used to remove it from the window.

If someone could possibly share a picture of their rainsensor mounted to the windshield I would very much appreciate it.

It would be 1992-2002 eldo, 1996-1999 Deville, or 1996-1997 Seville..

I know it goes to the right of the mirror mount but would like to see a good picture of it. Thanks


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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the module comes complete with adhesive.

The module I tried (used) is damaged in the sensing area. IE looks like a razor blade was used to remove it from the window.

If someone could possibly share a picture of their rainsensor mounted to the windshield I would very much appreciate it.

It would be 1992-2002 eldo, 1996-1999 Deville, or 1996-1997 Seville..

I know it goes to the right of the mirror mount but would like to see a good picture of it. Thanks

I have Rainsense wipers on my Seville. Do you need a picture from inside the car, the outside of the windshield or both?

The left side of the module is 60mm from the edge of the rear view mirror mount and bottom edge of the module is 20mm from the bottom of the rear view mirror mount per the shop manual. (use tape on the outside of the windshield to mark the location. The dimensions are the to the mirroe mount that is glued to the glass, not the plastic trim. Mine measures about 50mm and 15mm so there must be some tolerance or the spec. changed from '96 to '97 (my car is a '97 but the shop manual I have is a '96).


Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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both would be wonderful. Basically looking to see if the sensor area is in the tinted area of the windshield or not.


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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On my 08 the sensor is not in the blue tinted part, but there is a seperate shaded spot right directly behind the rear view mirror. This section is dark grey and surrounded by dots of black. The sensor has a small window in the lower right hand corner (as observed from the drivers seat, from the back) which I assume is the actual sensing area, it appears through a small dark window in the otherwise dark grey shaded area. One thing is for certain though, the actual sensor window is definitely in the "wiped" area of the glass. This way it sort of "resets" itself every time a wipe is called for.


Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed.

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Thanks.

I think we should do a rain sense thread. There have been alot of questions out there about it.

Your rainsense module is probably shaped more like a egg, It is smaller and has a different plug.

I might also add that there is 2 different rainsense modules on my type.

One has a nub sticking out opposite the plug side. That is for heated windshield option only

the one without the nub is only for non heated windshield equipped only.

I must say the dealers seemed to know very little about the system and its modules.

I forget, Where is the button for the DE-ice optioned models?

My Deville has the 2 same buttons all of them have, the defroster button and the windshield button above the rear defrost button


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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