woody Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 Hello All, I have been looking into replacing the front struts and the rear shocks on my 97 Seville STS and I have read all the threads pertaining to the various aftermarket parts. I am lookng for the bottom line on which you think is the best way to go and what else should be replaced to make the whole package complete. I just had the car into a coworkers brothers shop for a rattle on the left front that I thought was a strut bushing problem but he could not find anything after looking around. He did test drive her and heard the noise but once up in the air, nothing. The car has 101,000 miles so maybe it is time for new. Is there anyway to check for faults without tearing it apart. All replies are greatly appreciated. Woody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitrous1 Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 I installed Arnott passive struts on the front and rear of my 96 STS when I rebuilt the front end. I can honestly say that I wish I never had. I was trying to save a little money by not buying OEM replacements and I fear the old adage " You get what you pay for" has come true for me. The passenger front strut was bad from the moment I installed it - it rattled going over bumps and starting leaking oil rather quickly. The attachment holes for the sway bar links were not configured properly on both front struts and I had to fabricate a tapered adapter to make them seat correctly. Arnott sent me a replacement strut under warranty. It sounded and rode great for about about a week and now it is rattling almost as bad as the one I sent back. The sway bar link hole was better on the replacement strut, but still not configured the way the OEM strut was. The Arnott struts seem to be very stiff - too stiff in my opinion. My car has developed quite a collection of rattles and squeaks that it never had before. I know my car is 10 years old and old cars develops rattles, but I believe the stiffness of the replacements struts greatly accelerated some the rattles. Do not construe my comments as negativity toward Arnott struts - I am merely relating my personal experience with them. You may have better luck than I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonjaab Posted March 8, 2006 Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 For my 96 DeVille with those electric front struts it was gonna cost $2500 bucks to replace them at the Caddy dealer........ So goodbye 96...Hello 03 !!!!!!!!!!!! For most folks with a older caddy the Boston or Arnott struts are the only way out...........geo Quote 93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala 72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville 84 Z-28 Syracuse NY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackc Posted March 8, 2006 Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 On my 93, I used AC Delco passive replacement struts and shocks. The ride is probably now stiffer than OEM would be, but I'm satisfied overall. The rear shocks installed easily and fit perfectly. For the fronts, the only problem I encountered was the need to enlarge the hole a little for the sway bar link. Wasn't a big deal. One problem with going this route is that it doesn't include a solution to getting the "Service Ride Control" message. I just live with it and one press of the information button makes it go away - at least until the next time you start it. (I did keep the servos out of the old struts and have this plan to one day plug them back in, stuff them up under the car somewhere, and hopefully kill the message - but round-tuits have been hard to come by.....) As far as how to check for faults without tearing it apart, there are the codes that will set when there are problems with the ride control electronics - but to my knowledge, there's nothing that will indicate that a strut has "gone flat". I too had a rattle in the left front and it did go away after I replaced the struts and strut mounts. But others here have had rattles caused by other problems. The biggest symptom I had, though, was that the whole car was "boating" on the highway. The replacements fixed this. My guess would be that at 9 years and 101,000 miles, yours are probably due for replacement. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsjoe Posted March 8, 2006 Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 I went with Boston Susp. passives, Eliminated the boating but the ride is somewhat stiff( they come with a resistor to defeat the "service ride" message.) Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted March 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 All, I knew some of you have had this same dilema and I apperciate the feed back as always. I will check out the AC Delco passive and the Boston site. I will keep checking for additional posts. Thanks, Woody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted March 8, 2006 Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 I'm still looking for the web site that tells you exactly how to do this... but the "right" way to do this "patch" is to use a set of passive AC Delco shocks/struts and some 10 ohm 50 watt resisters. OEM quality with out the service message or the CVRSS price! Quote Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted March 8, 2006 Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 There are several companies with non-electronic strut and shock part numbers that will bolt in; look at Gabriel and Monroe in addition to ACDelco. But you are giving up the variable damping available from the electronic type strut; what you get is what you have all the time. The only little annoyance with non-electronic struts / shocks is you will get the SERVICE RIDE CONTROL message (or whatever similar message your year / model displays). The message can be avoided by fooling the OBD into believing there is a strut / shock damper valve solenoid plugged into the chassis wiring at each position. You can fool the OBD by removing the damper valve solenoid from your defective part and plugging it back in the chassis connector where it was when you removed the strut / shock. Or, you can insert the appropriate value resistor in that chassis connector instead of the damper valve solenoid. The question becomes; what value resistor? For '97 and earlier with RSS, I do not know for sure but Mike might have an answer in a few weeks. For '98 to '04 Seville with CVRSS but without Magnetic Ride Control, I can guarantee the CVRSS OBD can be fooled with a 4.7k Ohm, 1/2 Watt resistor (package of 5 at Radio Shack for $1.00). Quote Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted March 8, 2006 Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 (edited) I will follow your recommendations Jim and do some testing and let you know what I find out. As you know, I have used the 12 ohm/50 watt resistor that Boston Suspensions provided and it does not work. I will try to do this over the next couple of weeks, what values do you think I should try besides 4.7 ohm, Mike Edited March 8, 2006 by BodybyFisher Quote Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northstar Posted March 8, 2006 Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 I would stay with the OEM struts for sure. You can buy them at rock auto and install them yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 Going OEM depends on how deep your pockets are, my struts are about $2,400 for all four for the parts only from Rockauto. I bought all four from Boston Suspension for about $530, big difference don't you think? The other issue is that my car was 10 years old and I didn't think it was prudent to put $2,400 into struts just to have electronic control. So I went passive. I bought the luxury struts from Boston. My rear installation went very smoothly and they are performing adequately. I am installing the front struts soon, will advise. Quote Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeal1892 Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 (edited) i was wondering how you used the resistors and such ? i have had an on going problem for a long time. sometimes the suspension works and sometimes it doesnt ive replaced one of the struts that the comuter says its bad and ohmed them out like cadillac said to do and by what they say thier good. thanks, michael Edited March 9, 2006 by mikeal1892 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 i was wondering how you used the resistors and such ? i have had an on going problem for a long time. sometimes the suspension works and sometimes it doesnt thanks, michael The strut is connected to the computer via a two wire plug. you disconnect the strut and connect a resistor on the side that goes to the computer. I think Jim said that a 4.7 ohm 1/2 watt resistor does the trick. IF and ONLY IF you are certain that your damper valve is bad in your strut you can CUT the wire and wire in the resistor and keep the plug in place. Jim will comment on the resistor value for your 98 I am sure. Mike Quote Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeal1892 Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 (edited) THANK-YOU !!! well we took this tool and checked them and they tested as being good both but i still am getting c1711. i just want to rip the out and go passive less problems , and not have to see that aweful light it hurts my eyes i learned from buying a spring kit from strutmasters really the only thing you pay for is the info to shut the light off. Edited March 9, 2006 by mikeal1892 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northstar Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 (edited) For your 97 STS struts at Rock Auto are about $1600 for all four corners. If you can afford this then I would go OEM for the ride is much better. You may regret going with passive. BTW I got all four OEM struts for my 96 STS a while back for $1200 from my local AC Delco parts house. I will change out my original shocks when I hit 200k which I'm coming up on soon. Edited March 9, 2006 by Northstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeal1892 Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 i own a shop so i can get them at cost, but i really dont want to put something back on the car thats going to go bad again. ive had 5 cadillacs and never had this much trouble with the suspension. my car was wrecked by the orig owner i dont know if thats what caused this but the suspension started working again after i had it for a while and worked fine for almost a year ! its been off again on again. ive put more money into the cadillac in repairs that i have the last 2 i have had togeather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeal1892 Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 There are several companies with non-electronic strut and shock part numbers that will bolt in; look at Gabriel and Monroe in addition to ACDelco. But you are giving up the variable damping available from the electronic type strut; what you get is what you have all the time. The only little annoyance with non-electronic struts / shocks is you will get the SERVICE RIDE CONTROL message (or whatever similar message your year / model displays). The message can be avoided by fooling the OBD into believing there is a strut / shock damper valve solenoid plugged into the chassis wiring at each position. You can fool the OBD by removing the damper valve solenoid from your defective part and plugging it back in the chassis connector where it was when you removed the strut / shock. Or, you can insert the appropriate value resistor in that chassis connector instead of the damper valve solenoid. The question becomes; what value resistor? For '97 and earlier with RSS, I do not know for sure but Mike might have an answer in a few weeks. For '98 to '04 Seville with CVRSS but without Magnetic Ride Control, I can guarantee the CVRSS OBD can be fooled with a 4.7k Ohm, 1/2 Watt resistor (package of 5 at Radio Shack for $1.00). is there any way of doing this at the suspension computer ? . how is it done at the struts ? im still trying to figure this out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeal1892 Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 i was wondering how you used the resistors and such ? i have had an on going problem for a long time. sometimes the suspension works and sometimes it doesnt thanks, michael The strut is connected to the computer via a two wire plug. you disconnect the strut and connect a resistor on the side that goes to the computer. I think Jim said that a 4.7 ohm 1/2 watt resistor does the trick. IF and ONLY IF you are certain that your damper valve is bad in your strut you can CUT the wire and wire in the resistor and keep the plug in place. Jim will comment on the resistor value for your 98 I am sure. Mike hello its me again ! well i tried doing that. just slipping the resistor into the two wires while having it un plugged from the sturts ?it still comes up with the service suspension system on the read out. i've tried everything with this car im at wits end. if i were working and not finishing up my ba . i would have a new one. any ideas on what else could be done ??? please help, michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadiKing Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 I would stay with the OEM struts for sure. You can buy them at rock auto and install them yourself. I SECOND THAT! MAN, You cannot beat the RIDE & CONTROL of the STS with active suspension. That's what makes it an STS! SLS', without the active ride, just don't do it for me... My '97 Deville is a fill in car for me 'til I find another Caddy with Active Suspension... My '97 rides like a Buick, or Olds, Or any other da*n car on the road! You will HATE the ride without active suspension... I noticed that ride ON MY '99 sts every time I drove it! Now I notice how I don't notice the ride when I drive the '97 Deville! GMPartsDirect or whomever should have active struts for about $350 each... Pretty Easy DIY project.. You might reconsider... Take that baby out a flog it a little, (read - whole bunch). Throw it into some corners! Do some evasive manuvers! FEEL THE ACTIVE SUSPENSION! Then just do the same if you put passive struts on it... so you can (kick yourself?)...LOl Good luck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeal1892 Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 I would stay with the OEM struts for sure. You can buy them at rock auto and install them yourself. I SECOND THAT! MAN, You cannot beat the RIDE & CONTROL of the STS with active suspension. That's what makes it an STS! SLS', without the active ride, just don't do it for me... My '97 Deville is a fill in car for me 'til I find another Caddy with Active Suspension... My '97 rides like a Buick, or Olds, Or any other da*n car on the road! You will HATE the ride without active suspension... I noticed that ride ON MY '99 sts every time I drove it! Now I notice how I don't notice the ride when I drive the '97 Deville! GMPartsDirect or whomever should have active struts for about $350 each... Pretty Easy DIY project.. You might reconsider... Take that baby out a flog it a little, (read - whole bunch). Throw it into some corners! Do some evasive manuvers! FEEL THE ACTIVE SUSPENSION! Then just do the same if you put passive struts on it... so you can (kick yourself?)...LOl Good luck... ive replaced the strut that was bad and the struts its saying was bad was good to. we ohmed them out like the suspension guy at the dealership told us to. i love the actvie but at some point its just going to go out again. i sold my old deville to a freind and i had replaced all 4 struts on it and they didnt last 50k miles so its not worth it really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 I will follow your recommendations Jim and do some testing and let you know what I find out. As you know, I have used the 12 ohm/50 watt resistor that Boston Suspensions provided and it does not work. I will try to do this over the next couple of weeks, what values do you think I should try besides 4.7 ohm, Mike Just to make one point clear for anyone willing to go with non-electronic struts / shocks. The resistor value that fooled the CVRSS OBD on my '98 was a 4.7k Ohm, 1/2 Watt. That is 4,700 Ohms, 1/2 Watt. The Radio Shack package will say "4.7k-Ohm" and is #271-1124. For a '97 and earlier (with RSS), if the 4.7k Ohm does not work (which I doubt), I would try a 10k Ohm, 1/2 Watt resistor. That is 10,000 Ohms. Radio Shack #271-1126. Feedback is always welcome. Quote Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeal1892 Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 I will follow your recommendations Jim and do some testing and let you know what I find out. As you know, I have used the 12 ohm/50 watt resistor that Boston Suspensions provided and it does not work. I will try to do this over the next couple of weeks, what values do you think I should try besides 4.7 ohm, Mike Just to make one point clear for anyone willing to go with non-electronic struts / shocks. The resistor value that fooled the CVRSS OBD on my '98 was a 4.7k Ohm, 1/2 Watt. That is 4,700 Ohms, 1/2 Watt. The Radio Shack package will say "4.7k-Ohm" and is #271-1124. For a '97 and earlier (with RSS), if the 4.7k Ohm does not work (which I doubt), I would try a 10k Ohm, 1/2 Watt resistor. That is 10,000 Ohms. Radio Shack #271-1126. Feedback is always welcome. hey jim, that is just what used and it didnt work. any ideas ? ive replace the sturt that the cimputer claims is bad and found out it was stiill good but still nothing same old run a round. suspensionless in indiana, michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 hey jim, that is just what used and it didnt work. any ideas ? ive replace the sturt that the cimputer claims is bad and found out it was stiill good but still nothing same old run a round. suspensionless in indiana, michael It is not clear to me exactly what problem you are trying to repair. Tell us which DTCs and messages you are seeing. And tell us exactly what you have done that did not cure the problem. There is a wealth of assistance available to you on this forum but we do need the specific information about what exactly is wrong with your vehicle. Starting a new topic might be more helpfull to you. Quote Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeal1892 Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 (edited) its c1711 b1009 i have tested the connections between the computer and the struts and ohmed the struts to check to see if they were good . that they're Good. but the computer says that the left front strut is shorted to the ground. when it is not. because i tested the wires. i went by thing that the guy that works on the suspension system at the cadillac dealership. suspensionless in indiana, michael Edited March 9, 2006 by mikeal1892 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 its c1711 b1009 i have tested the connections between the computer and the struts and ohmed the struts to check to see if they were good . that they're Good. but the computer says that the left front strut is shorted to the ground. when it is not. because i tested the wires. i went by thing that the guy that works on the suspension system at the cadillac dealership. suspensionless in indiana, michael Disconnect that strut and see if the shorted to ground changes, if not its possible that the strut damper valve is bad.. Quote Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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