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P0741 code and TCC lockup - Not a big deal? Think again...


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After several years of the intermittent P0741 code, it began to set on a regular basis about a year and a half ago. About a month ago, the transmission began to emit a whine when cold that increased with engine speed. Once the engine warmed up, the noise went away. The car still shifts perfectly but I decided to drop the pan and found it loaded with debris.

I took the pan to a local transmission shop and he said it was torque converter clutch material and there was no point in rebuilding the transmission so I located a used unit with 52,000 miles on it. I plan to remove the transmission this weekend and install the "new" one after Christmas.

If your car is throwing the P0741 code, my advice is to get it repaired as soon as possible.

Below is a picture of some of the debris in the pan. Most of it went into the drain pan.

post-45-0-73786100-1387568299_thumb.jpg

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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been there before. It sucks. I installed a low mileage used one and same problem happened but much sooner with replacement

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Is this the 1997 STS?

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Is this the 1997 STS?

Yes - the '97 STS is the one with the transmission issue. The car has 187,173 on the odometer. It was originally a North Carolina car that I bought in March of 2006 with bad headgaskets. I found a transmission out of a '98 Deville Concours with only 52,000 miles on it that I am going to pick up this afternoon. I then need to build an adapter for the transmission jack and begin the removal process.

One of the drive axles is siezed into the hub bearing and the lower strut bolts are siezed into the knuckle. I had to take out the strut, axle, knuckle, and control arm as a unit. It has been soaking in Kroil for three days now. My plan is to remove the strut and the control arm from the knuckle and take the axle and the bearing to the machine shop to have it pressed apart. I've never had an axle stuck like this before. Everyone says removing the transmission is easier than removing the engine but so far, it has been fighting me every step of the way....

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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My most extreme experience was putting a dealer-installed optional A/C in a 1959 Chevrolet (this was about 1963 or 1964). I had all the parts from a recycling yard and some new from the dealer, ready to go, and space to work one Saturday morning in the rear of a shop that would make available a vacuum pump and a set of Freon gauges when the time came.

I planed the job carefully, having only a Chilton to go by back in that time. I started by pulling the grille about 9:00 AM. I got stares and an occasional huff of disdain from the A/C techs and mechanics there. But I had buttoned it up and was topping off the Freon at 1:00 PM, and all the A/C techs and mechanics were really mad because I had beat *their* times.

In a big job, sometimes it's best to go ahead and deal with accessibility of the parts first. It's your car so only you can tell, but sometimes resistance is futile.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Some success today - I was able to get the strut off the knuckle and the control arm of the knuckle. The three bolts retaing the bearing to the knuckle would not budge and an impact wrench rounded one of the heads... I had to heat the bearing flange with a oxy-acetylene torch in order to remove the bolts. I am going to replace all three bolts. I now have the axle, hub/bearing and knuckle as an assembly which is much lighter than when the strut and control arm was attached.

I'm off to the machine shop and then to the junkyard to pick up the transmission.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Update:

It took a 20 ton press to press the axle from the bearing! I had to build a support structure to hold up the engine and some adapter brackets for the transmission jack. I now have the engine chained into place and am removing the brackets, etc. from the transmission. I forgot how much fun it was to fight that main wiring harness that lays on top of the transmission...

The next steps are to tilt the subframe in order to disconnect the steering rack from the subframe, lower the subframe, and finally remove the transmission. It will probably be sometime tomorrow before I get the trans. out of the car and begin to install the replacement. Muscles I never knew I had ache...

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Are you taking pictures?

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I haven't taken any recently but intend to do so. I have a picture of the support structure but there's not much to take a picture of until I get the transmission out of the car.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I made some progress today. One of the subframe bolts was siezed in the captive nut. I tried to pry down the subframe to put pressure on it but that didn't work. It was the rearmost bolt on the driver's side and there is no access to the nut so I had to cut a small opening and heat it with the torch - even then, it did not want to come apart easily. Once the job is done, I'll weld the opening closed, grind the weld, prime, paint, and undercoat the area and it will not be noticable.

I got the subframe out of the car and am ready to drop the transmission. The rack & pinion mounting bolts fought me every step of the way...

Tomorrow's plan is to complete the removal of the transmission, flush the cooler lines, and get the new transmission bolted into place. Some photos follow in separate posts. The one in this post is the support structure to hold the engine.

post-45-0-93425700-1388462784_thumb.jpg

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Wow, great pictures!

I know it's after the fact, now, but isn't there a "nut buster" tool and a way to take off a bolt head?

I guess not. The conventional solution is either penetrating oil and an impact wrench or a nut splitter. I did a tool search and the closest I found was for small screws and bolts with no nut available; you drilled into the head and use a screw extractor. I suppose the equivalent for your large bolt would be to drill into the head with a large enough bit to take off the bolt head.

But I like the acetylene wrench solution.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Wow, great pictures!

I know it's after the fact, now, but isn't there a "nut buster" tool and a way to take off a bolt head?

I guess not. The conventional solution is either penetrating oil and an impact wrench or a nut splitter. I did a tool search and the closest I found was for small screws and bolts with no nut available; you drilled into the head and use a screw extractor. I suppose the equivalent for your large bolt would be to drill into the head with a large enough bit to take off the bolt head.

But I like the acetylene wrench solution.

The problem with cutting off the rear subframe mounting bolts is there is no access to the captive nut. There was a small hole but it was too far away to be any use. I attempted to feed a no. 3 torch tip through there but it did not do any good. I thought there might be access through the interior of the car but there was not. As a last resort, I cut three 2" long cuts near the bolt area and bent the resulting tab down. Once I did that, the sized nut was easily heated with the oxy-acetylene torch and it came out.

The torch and mig welder are invaluable when working on an old car.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I finally got the transmission out at 3:30 EST today! On New Year's Eve, I fought thelast lower engine to trans. bolt and gave up since we had people coming over to the house. I went snowmobiling on New Year's Day - I needed to get away from that car...LOL.

Today, I removed the intake manifold in order to gain access to the bolt and I did that and had that bolt out in less time than I spent trying to get the bolt out the other day... The factory shop manual is missing a lot of steps...

I need to flush the cooler lines and get the "new" transmission on the transmission jack and the old one in my utility trailer so I can return it to the junkyard to get the core charge back. I need to test the TCC solenoid and the input speed sensor on the new transmission before installing it.

Below is a picture of the old transmission as I was lowering it out.

post-45-0-67661100-1388701944_thumb.jpg

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I like the second picture better.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I made some significant progress today despite not starting until after dinner. I had to take the old transmission back to the junkyard and pick up a transmission mount to replace the one that was bad. I now have the transmission in position and bolted to the engine. Tomorrow, I'll get the subframe back in place and hope to wrap up the installation of the transmission. I need to drill out a broken mounting bolt for the left front suspension sensor that snapped off during removal as well as close up the rear subframe "access port" I had to make in the inner fender well.

I discovered one of the green silicone heater hoses was all cracked and ready to let go. My local Carquest store said they had silicone heater hose at $9.00 per foot but when the guy brough it to the counter, it looked like regular heater hose that was slightly more reinforced. The O'Riliey's website showed it available next day and by the foot but when I called them, I was informed I needed to purchase a 25 foot roll so I ordered it from the Chevy dealer - $19.11 for a piece of 3/4" hose 3" long... I feel violated....

I noticed the lower radiator hose looked a little suspect so I bought a new one - I figured I might as well go over all the cooling hoses while the coolant is drained as to not have an issue.

Here's a picture of the transmission ready to be lifted into place.

post-45-0-70946800-1388809572_thumb.jpg

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Here it is halfway into place. It was MUCH easier installing the transmission vs. removing it.

post-45-0-70622300-1388810073_thumb.jpg

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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