Cadillac Jim Posted January 4, 2014 Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 I'm exhausted just getting up to date on this thread. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 I'm exhausted just getting up to date on this thread. I'm exhausted doing the work. Last night, I was able to bolt the transmission to the engine. I've been working this afternoon on bolting up all the braces, etc. After dinner, I plan to install the subframe and remove the engine support structure. I should be able to get most of the job done today (depending on how long I work on it...). It will be Monday night before I can finish it (vacation's over...) - the silicone heater hose (green hose) won't arrive until Monday morning so I'll pick it up on my way home from work. The used transmission I installed better not have any problems... I tested the TCC solenoid before I installed it and it was OK. at 52,000 miles, it shouldn't have any issues but the thought of doing this job again scares me... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Heck of a job, Kevin. Here's to many trouble free miles from that beast. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airmike Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Its great having those pictures. I can't seem to take pics when I do a job. Great job Kevin and I'm with you, redoing that would be so very disappointing. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 The subframe is in and the mounts are bolted to the subframe. The support structure is now in my garage attic - I hope I never need it again... I had to remove the left front suspension sensor to access the transmission mount bolts and one of the mounting bolts snapped off... I need to drill out the old bolt and run a tap through it - always something. We got 6"+ of new snow so I'm going snowmobiling Sunday. I'll be back under the car in the evening. I hope to have it done Tuesday or Wednesday evening. It has been a long, difficult job. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Those bolts are weird. I have snapped off clean bolts for them, but have had badly rusted ones come out. Those bolts snap like toothpicks. meaning for the ride control and for the brake hose bracket. The last trans I did was a 96 Deville, the biggest issue I ran into was the wiring harness over the top. made it very hard to get to the bolts. I dont recall pulling the intake I installed a used one from a salvage 96 with 84k and it was bad rigght from the start. the TCC was already half gone so the light came on in the first trip. My research told me to not buy a trans that has sat around. dont know if I would install another one without rebuilding it and replacing the torque convertor, solenoids, etc... All I had done was pull both pans, replace both screens and the filter. GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Did you do a transmission service on the transmission? If not, before you drive, or right after you drive it for the first time, is a good time. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 The transmission I bought had 52,578 miles on it and I verified that by having a dealer run the VIN. After all this work it better not have any issues... The transmission was drained of fluid when I bought it. I did tip it up to look at the underside and bright red fluid came out of the axle opening so I think I'll be OK. I have a GM screen and pan gasket kit and once the installation is complete, I'll change the screens and fill it with fresh fluid. I reverse-flushed the cooler lines first with compressed air to blow out any residual fluid, then used a chemical called "Kooler Kleen". I used the whole can and the fluid was clear when the can was half gone. I then followed up with compressed air. When the engine is started for the first time, I'll purge two quarts of fluid from the cooler line. The wiring harness that rests on top of the transmission is a royal PITA to deal with. I removed the intake in order to gain better access to the lower rear bolt vs removing the throtele body since many times, the o-ring is not reusable. Once the intake and thhe cruide cable brackets, etc. are out of the way, the problem mounting bolt was easy to remove and install. If the wire harness is disconnected from the EBTCM, it will provide some additional slack. There is enough slack at the firewall to pull it out of the way in order to access the bolts if it is disconnected from the sensor in the rear head. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 that was what I did. I had removed the ebtcm from the subframe mounts and tied it up to the radiator support, then unplugged the connector carefully. From what I have heard sitting takes a toll on the torque convertor and the slightest rust can cause torque convertor seal failure. dont know how true this is but I am willing to bet the trans I installed sat for a little bit, it was already pulled and stocked on a shelf. GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 The unit I bought was pulled from the car. I don't know hor long the car was sitting though. It has a 1 year warranty and if there is an issue, the junkyard will pay up to $500.00 in labor to replace the trans. If there is an issue, it's going to a transmission shop. I won't do this job again... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 lol cant say I blame you. If you have a lift it is best, I have my fingers crossed for you GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Not much to report - I've been reinstalling all the components I removed in order to drop the transmission. I hope to finish it up tomorrow evening. I'm taking the day off work to go snowmobiling before the thaw ruins the trails. When I get back, I'll get back on the car. I'm waiting for the Kent-Moore tool to torque the ball joint nuts - it should be here tomorrow. I got it on ebay for $13.00 and free shipping which was way cheaper than buying a box wrench and socket and welding them together. I want to be done with this job... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 You will be done soon. Yesterday I left my car at a tire shop for installation of new Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric All-Season tires. They have a heated indoor shop and high-tech tire mounting and wheel balancing equipment. Although I didn't share your physical challenges and too innovation, I did think about the car a lot while I was waiting for the car. My wife's car needs an EVAP purge solenoid and an oxygen sensor. I have an appointment for Tuesday morning to drop it off at a shop with a heated indoor bay. I *would* do this job myself it it wasn't January. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 what special tool do you speak of? I have not used any special tool for the balljoints? GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 You will be done soon. Yesterday I left my car at a tire shop for installation of new Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric All-Season tires. They have a heated indoor shop and high-tech tire mounting and wheel balancing equipment. Although I didn't share your physical challenges and too innovation, I did think about the car a lot while I was waiting for the car. My wife's car needs an EVAP purge solenoid and an oxygen sensor. I have an appointment for Tuesday morning to drop it off at a shop with a heated indoor bay. I *would* do this job myself it it wasn't January. I hope to be done with it soon...LOL. I have about an hour's work left to do before road testing the car. I worked on it last night until midnight and ran out of energy. I pulled the pan and installed new screens and the gasket. The residual fluid from the "new" trans. was bright red so hopefully, it is a good one. The thought of having to do this job again makes me cringe... what special tool do you speak of? I have not used any special tool for the balljoints? The Kent Moore number is J-35551. It arrived yesterday and I was able to torque the ball joint nuts. I'm glad it was only $13.00....LOL. It really needed to be a couple of inches longer but it did work. There is no way to torque the ball joint castle nut without this tool since the drive axle is right above the nut. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 I was thinking that the color, clarity and smell of the fluid would tell the tale of the condition of the transmission. Bright red and clear? Great news. To use the torque reading on the torque wrench, the line between the square hole for the wrench drive and the center of the nut should be 90 degrees from the axis of the torque wrench handle. If the tool is straight out along the line of the wrench handle, the applied torque will be a bit higher than the torque reading. But you know that. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 what special tool do you speak of? I have not used any special tool for the balljoints? Use the tool number and look up "Images" for it on any of the search engines. It's a socket for the ball joint in a thick sheet of steel. It's a long rectangle, and it has a 1/2" socket drive on the other end. It allows high torques with no clearance for a socket wrench below the bolt. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 I see, it is like a box end with a 1/2 ratchet hole on the other side. I didnt realize the torque was that crucial. I have always done them with a box end wrench and lined up the hole with the slots. Thanks GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 I see, it is like a box end with a 1/2 ratchet hole on the other side. I didnt realize the torque was that crucial. I have always done them with a box end wrench and lined up the hole with the slots. Thanks The shop manual says to torque the castle nut to 84 ft-lbs., then an additional 120°, then tighten to align the cotter pin hole with one of the slots. I contemplated fabricating the tool with a socket welded to a box wrench but found the correct tool for less money than I would have spent making one so I used it. I also could have torqued a lug nut to 84 ft-lbs. and then used a box wrench and a "cheater bar" to approximate the feel and then used that combination on the castle nut. That is what I would have done if I didn't find the tool. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 I finished up about an hour ago and have been testing the car. The torque converter locks up, the mpg is in the 25-27 range and NO codes are stored! I forget who had the signature, "Happiness is a Cadillac with no codes." but I'm going to use the saying! I am so glad to be done with this project... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airmike Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Kevin I hope you get to enjoy that tranny trouble free for a long time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadillacjeff7777 Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 I had a TCC code and SES light on my 1995 SLS. I owned it for a couple of years and was always there. It always seemed weak on take offs. I think that I read somewhere that due to the TCC error, the car will start out in 2nd. 2008 DTS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 I had a TCC code and SES light on my 1995 SLS. I owned it for a couple of years and was always there. It always seemed weak on take offs. I think that I read somewhere that due to the TCC error, the car will start out in 2nd. Mine definitely did NOT start out in 2nd gear. It chuggled going up hills with the cruide set and got 3-4 mpg less. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 That was a hell of a job Kevin, wow, hat tip to you! Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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