yfz04450 Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 i have a 1992 cadillac seviille sts. About a week ago the heater controls stopped working. the car runs fine. The error code it has is io37. loss of acp data. I replaced the ac programmer which i thought was the problem. it didnt fix it. So my question is could it be the instrument panel? The data line voltage bounces from 4-5 volts. I tried unplugging the induvidual computers and it brought codes up for each. Im at a loss for where to go next Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Hopefully before you did all this, you disconnected the ground from the battery to "reset" things. If not, give it a try, and check the connections for rust & corrosion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yfz04450 Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 yes i did. i disconected the battery for about 45 min. they are all clean also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 I037 Loss of Air Conditioning Programmer Data This code means that there is a wiring problem with the data link, or that the module controlling the A/C programmer is dead (fuse???) not that the programmer is bad. 99% of the time when you see a diagnostic, it is telling you what is wrong, not that the module is bad. The fuses to check are the 10 Amp (red) COMFORT fuse and the 10 Amp (red) IGN0-BODY fuse in the trunk compartment fuse block. The HOT IN RUN signal comes through the IGN0-BODY fuse to the LT GRN wire to terminal D1 in connector C2 of the programmer, according to the 1997 FSM page 8A-68-5 and tells the programmer that the key is on. The always-hot power comes through the COMFORT fuse through a GRN wire to terminal C3 of connector C2 on the programmer and is the programmer power. The code says that there is a loss of data, which could be a problem with the data link. The data link wires are the PPL wires on terminals D4 and D2 of connector C2 on the programmer. NOTE: There is an error in the 1997 FSM page 8A-68-5 in the internal diagram for the PASSENGER CLIMATE CONTROL. A direct connection is shown between connector terminal 3 (LT GRN) and terminal 2 (BLK) which cannot be there because the BLK wire is the system ground, passed through the programmer to another BLK wire on connector D7 of connector C2 to ground G205. This is the first and only drafting error that I have ever seen in my FSM schematics. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yfz04450 Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 I dont have a comfort fuse. I checked all the fuses. They are good and im getting power to the controller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 It sounds like you know how to measure the voltage on pin M of the ALDL. What you are looking at is the voltage on the circuit 800 data line. Not sure, but the 1992 IPC may be specific to 1992. 1993's and latter were technically a little different inside. Can you describe in better detail what you mean by the "heater controls stopped working"? What happens? No blower...no display...stuck on defrost...what exactly is going on? As for the 1997 info....completely different vehicle harness vs 1992 because of OBDII and a different style IPC in 1996. Even the tail lights are wired differently.... Nothing in the 1997 FSM applies to a 1992. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 You must also have power on the LT GRN wire on terminal D1 of connector C2 or the controller will "think" that the key is off. In that mode, all it will do is close all the temperature and air mix doors and go to sleep, ignoring the network lines. In my 1997 FSM page 8A-11-1 there is a diagram of the fuses in the trunk compartment fuse block. The IGN 0-BODY fuse is the second fuse in the second row. The COMFORT fuse is right next to it, the third fuse in the second row. Of course, your car may differ, as Logan says, even though this wiring isn't related to the OBD system the wiring harness and fuse layout may have been revised while they had the chance. Look for the LT GRN wire and make sure that it has voltage at the controller when the key is in "Run." Look for the BLK wire and use your Ohmmeter to make sure that it has a good connection to ground. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yfz04450 Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 There are dashes for the outside and the other temp. When i first start car it reads 75 degrees for temp setting then it goes away. Im getting a good ground at the controller ive got one wire thats constant power and one that goes hot when key is on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yfz04450 Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Also fan doesnt run and it shows its on defrost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Your IPM is not getting data from the controller if the temp readings aren't showing. Check the PPL wires for loose connections and shorts. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Ok...defrost mode and the '--' blank display happens during the failure. That is to be expected. 2 questions: 1. Is the gray cover that plugs in on the ALDL plugged in? Is it even there? 2. Do you have a 1992 service manual? I only have a '93 manual. Jim. The 1997 service manual is useless on the 1992. Even the fuseblocks were changed in '96. I attached a pic of a ALDL cover. Yours should be sort of like this but gray. Is yours even there? The gray ALDL cover contains a jumper that completes circuit 800. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yfz04450 Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Yes the cover is there and on. When i had it off i didnt see a jumper built into it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 If you look at the inside of the ALDL cover...you should see 2 small pins. They are actually a jumper for circuit 800. Circuit 800 is like a big loop..each computer is attached twice on the loop. That way if the loop gets damaged...the computer can still communicate on the other wire. The odds of having both wires going to a computer be damaged is extremely nill. IF the cover was missing...it would act like a 'open' on the circuit 800 loop. Since the cover is there and plugged in...circuit 800 should be complete. It may be worth checking to see if the pins..are...actually intact in the ALDL cover. 2 fuses to check....fuse D5 engine compartment fuse block. And fuse B1 in the trunk fuse block. Both are 10 amps if that helps. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yfz04450 Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Ive checked all the fuses they are good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Thanks, Logan. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 You will need to check ground G305. It is passenger side, inside the vehicle, forward and below the lower front passenger door hinge. Some of the interior trim will have to come out to gain access for inspection. Kind of very near the lower corner of the door ring opening. There is another ground above...G301...maybe 1/3 of the way up the door opening. This is not the correct one to check. Be careful to inspect the correct one. What is the history of the ACP you put in? New, used? Are you sure it was the ACP you replaced? Update....I did find a picture. It's the lower ground (#4) in the attached pic you need to inspect. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yfz04450 Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I know i can hard wire the fan to run how do i get everything else to switch so i can at least get some heat for now. It's my only car and windows are kinda fogging up. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yfz04450 Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 That ground is in good shape. I took it off and cleaned it up and reinstalled it. Still nothing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yfz04450 Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 The acp is attached to the heater box. Its got a rod that attaches to it. The one i put in came out of a parts car and it did work when i pulled it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I know i can hard wire the fan to run how do i get everything else to switch so i can at least get some heat for now. It's my only car and windows are kinda fogging up. Thanks I cannot think of a quick fix to get your heater working again. The car and IPC seem to be working correctly with a faulty ACP. During the failure..the IPC is acting exactly-as-described in the service manual. Per the service manual...'during the time the failure is present....panel will display '--' for outside and set tempertures, defrost mode will be selected..' There is really only 3 things that can be going on. A open in circuit 800 between the ACP and PCM ...and...a second open between the ACP and the DERM. An open in ACP power or grounds. A faulty ACP. Could maybe be oxidized wiring terminals or maybe confusion over what/where the ACP is. I'm thinking the IPC is ok....but I've been wrong before too. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yfz04450 Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I got it figured out. There wasnt power to the brown wire of the acp plug. By talkin to the previous owner he said some wires had gotten damaged under rear seat of the car when he owner due to his stupidity. When i pulled the seat i found some wires were messed up. I cleaned and soldiered them back together and it started working again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I got it figured out. There wasnt power to the brown wire of the acp plug. By talkin to the previous owner he said some wires had gotten damaged under rear seat of the car when he owner due to his stupidity. When i pulled the seat i found some wires were messed up. I cleaned and soldiered them back together and it started working again Good job on finding the problem ans getting it repaired. Thanks for reporting back on the fix... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yfz04450 Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 The previous owner drilled a hole underneath the rear seat and hit all the wires there. And just taped them back up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 The previous owner drilled a hole underneath the rear seat and hit all the wires there. And just taped them back up. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted October 12, 2012 Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 lol. at least he told you. Let me guess from underneath the car. and the harness is toward the passenger side? very glad you got it fixed GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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