jmrojas54 Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 I replaced fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and fuel relay. vehicle started up with no problems. Once i pulled out of driveway, made it about a block and it stalled. I retraced all my work, disconnected negative terminal, pulled out relay and put back in. it started agan. once i turned it off it would no start again. I retracted my work again, this time i messed with new regulator, it started again, and as soon as i turned it off it would not start again. it seems like ignition switch is not always making fuel pump work. Could the ignition switch be my problem? any advice would be greatly appreceiated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 When you turn ignition ON (engine not running) you should hear the fuel pump running for two seconds. Can you hear it every time? Run onboard diagnostics: http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrojas54 Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 When you turn ignition ON (engine not running) you should hear the fuel pump running for two seconds. Can you hear it every time? Run onboard diagnostics: http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html Its started like 4 time in a row, then nothing. took the wife and kids out for dinner came back and tried it and it started first try. turned it off 3 times and restarted with no problems. 4 try nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Define "won't start". Cranks, but no start or does not even crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrojas54 Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Define "won't start". Cranks, but no start or does not even crank. it cranks over, but does not start. the only time it starts is when you here the fuel pump. the other times the fuel pump does not engage when you turn ignition it only cranks no start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 When you turn ignition ON (engine not running) you should hear the fuel pump running for two seconds. Can you hear it every time? Run onboard diagnostics: http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html Its started like 4 time in a row, then nothing. took the wife and kids out for dinner came back and tried it and it started first try. turned it off 3 times and restarted with no problems. 4 try nothing. Can you hear a click from the starter when it does not start? Could be anything from a bad solenoid, battery, cables, contacts, ignition, etc. Give us more detail. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrojas54 Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 When you turn ignition ON (engine not running) you should hear the fuel pump running for two seconds. Can you hear it every time? Run onboard diagnostics: http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html Its started like 4 time in a row, then nothing. took the wife and kids out for dinner came back and tried it and it started first try. turned it off 3 times and restarted with no problems. 4 try nothing. Can you hear a click from the starter when it does not start? Could be anything from a bad solenoid, battery, cables, contacts, ignition, etc. Give us more detail. It has a new battery, cables and contacts are good. I just started it again, when i turned ignition i heard fuel pump and it started first try, turned it off then tryed to restart again and when i turned the key i did not here fuel pump it only crank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 There is a fuel pump relay, pull it, check its contacts for corrosion, try tapping on it. You may have a bad fuel pump with a dead spot or bad ground also Put a fuel pressure gage on it to confirm what you are hearing Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 We still haven't seen the OBD codes. But, it's sounding more and more like a fuel pump relay. Perhaps trading it for another relay with the same part number would tell the tale. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 True Jim Check for codes, see the bottom of Jims or my post for links and directions on how extract DTC codes Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrojas54 Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 True Jim Check for codes, see the bottom of Jims or my post for links and directions on how extract DTC codes Thanks everyone for the ideas, I will try them tomorrow, I got pretty frustrated yesterday so I am taking a break today from working on it today, Besides its superbowl sunday, I dont care who wins because my Bears are out but it would be nice for a 4-7 score! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrojas54 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 True Jim Check for codes, see the bottom of Jims or my post for links and directions on how extract DTC codes Thanks everyone for the ideas, I will try them tomorrow, I got pretty frustrated yesterday so I am taking a break today from working on it today, Besides its superbowl sunday, I dont care who wins because my Bears are out but it would be nice for a 4-7 score! lol Thank you bodybyfisher, jim and everyone for responding to request. I was able to go onto the onsite diagnostics, as soon as I activated it, it completed a self test it showed 2 history codes but it fixed itself. car starts with no problems 20 out of 20 times. thanks again. Now onto fixing driver side power window. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Hmm, keep an eye on it, Caddys are good but they usually does not fix themselves, lol What are the history codes? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrojas54 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Hmm, keep an eye on it, Caddys are good but they usually does not fix themselves, lol What are the history codes? the two codes that came up were IP 1552 & SD 1062 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 BodybyFisher is right. History codes reflect problems that are intermittent or that come and go, which is what you have. Some codes are set *only* as History codes. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrojas54 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Hmm, keep an eye on it, Caddys are good but they usually does not fix themselves, lol What are the history codes? the two codes that came up were IP 1552 & SD 1062 if I m reading it right SD is a airbag code. the are was wrecked in the front before I bought it. The IPC 1552 just states instrament pannel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93SixtySpecial Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 I had a Buick Century that I bought about 6 years back and I bought it for extremely cheap because the guys mechanic could not figure out what was going on. It has the same issue as yours. They replaced the alternator twice, the battery once, and the fuel pump 3 times. I bought it for $225 and replaced a $9 fuel pump relay. Good as new! -Dusty- 2006 Cadillac DTS Glacier Gold Tri-Coat with 175,000 miles 1993 Cadillac Sixty Special Gold Mist with 185,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 if you suspect the fuel pump relay, you can swap the AC & Fuel pump. - although rumor is that the oil sensor acts as a backup to the fuel pump relay on the N*, and would just need more cranking to turn over. I would believe more that it's a problem that emerges under certain environmental conditions - really cold, wet wires, salt in the wrong place, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 The B1552 just means that the battery was out sometime in the last few months. The U1062 means that at some point the SDM didn't respond to a health check signal within a time out period at some point, which will happen once in a while in any random-access network, and isn't a problem unless it keeps cropping up quickly after the codes or cleared or is seen as CURRENT for any period of time. In short, you have no codes for your stalling issue. You can verify that this is a no-gas problem by smelling the exhaust right after it stalls; if you don't smell gas at the exhaust, it is stalling because it isn't getting gas. If you smell gas, it's an ignition issue, or the PCM is shutting down the engine - which would be the result of something that would throw a code telling you why. One thing that hasn't been addressed is water in the gas at some point, which could leave you with a clogged fuel filter. At this point I suggest that you measure the fuel pressure at the rails. You can hook a fuel pressure line up at the Schrader valve or at the fitting at the input or output of the fuel rails. I suggest the input side because it measures the basic fuel pressure as provided by the fuel pump through the fuel filter and fuel lines. Run the line to the pressure gauge so that you can see it when the engine is running. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrojas54 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 The B1552 just means that the battery was out sometime in the last few months. The U1062 means that at some point the SDM didn't respond to a health check signal within a time out period at some point, which will happen once in a while in any random-access network, and isn't a problem unless it keeps cropping up quickly after the codes or cleared or is seen as CURRENT for any period of time. In short, you have no codes for your stalling issue. You can verify that this is a no-gas problem by smelling the exhaust right after it stalls; if you don't smell gas at the exhaust, it is stalling because it isn't getting gas. If you smell gas, it's an ignition issue, or the PCM is shutting down the engine - which would be the result of something that would throw a code telling you why. One thing that hasn't been addressed is water in the gas at some point, which could leave you with a clogged fuel filter. At this point I suggest that you measure the fuel pressure at the rails. You can hook a fuel pressure line up at the Schrader valve or at the fitting at the input or output of the fuel rails. I suggest the input side because it measures the basic fuel pressure as provided by the fuel pump through the fuel filter and fuel lines. Run the line to the pressure gauge so that you can see it when the engine is running. Thanks for the info, The car is running like a champ now. no problems except drivers side power window which will be replaced Saturday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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