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A/C compressor


blk987

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Iam going to replace my a/c compressor I have purchased the compressor w/clutch, accumalator, orfice tube and a faulty sensor along with 36oz. of 134a. I have a 98' Deville and other than the parts listed will I be needing anything else for the job. i.e. parts, special tools or advice? Any posts would be greatly appreciated!!!

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be sure that whatever lines you open that you replace the o-rings to prevent leaks. your system takes 2.0 lbs freon. Do not overfill

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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also my rule of thumb on pag oil is to drain the oil from the old compressor and add the same amount of new oil to the new compressor +1oz. Now be aware that there is a paper in the box with the new compressor that states that there is a precharged amount of pag oil in the compressor, so Example

You pull your compressor and drain 3oz of oil from it.

Your new compressor has 2oz pag oil precharged, so you would add 22oz pag oil for a total of 4oz pag oil. Hope that makes sense. I have been doing A/C for a long time and my best recommendation to you is to have the system vacumned for a minimum of 30 minutes to remove moisture and pressure from the system before charging with freon.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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There is a specific guidline in the service manual for how much oil to add to a new compressor and accumulator. You will also need to measure the amount of oil drained from the old accumulator. I always need to look it up though. PAG oil is hydroscopic - for that reason, the compressors do not come pre-charged with PAG oil, just residual assembly oil.

Why are you replacing the accumulator anyway? Was the system left open for an extended period of time?

Be sure to bleed the air out of the charging hoses before adding each can of R-134a. The amount of refrigerant you lose when changing cans and bleeding off the air can be 1/2-1 oz per can. For that reason, three, 12 oz. cans will be as close to 2.0 lbs of charge you can get.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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see lately my new compressors have been precharged with freeze 32 pag oil. I guess it varies by compressor

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I would drain any and all PAG oil out of a replacement compressor before installing it on my car... As I sated before, PAG oil oil is hydroscopic and if the compressor was on the shelf for more than a few days before purchase/installation, there will be moisture in the system. My advice is if the compressor is pre-charged with PAG oil, to drain all the oil out of the compressor before installation.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I would pump down the system and recharge it if I changed the compressor.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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There is a specific guidline in the service manual for how much oil to add to a new compressor and accumulator. You will also need to measure the amount of oil drained from the old accumulator. I always need to look it up though. PAG oil is hydroscopic - for that reason, the compressors do not come pre-charged with PAG oil, just residual assembly oil.

Why are you replacing the accumulator anyway? Was the system left open for an extended period of time?

Be sure to bleed the air out of the charging hoses before adding each can of R-134a. The amount of refrigerant you lose when changing cans and bleeding off the air can be 1/2-1 oz per can. For that reason, three, 12 oz. cans will be as close to 2.0 lbs of charge you can get.

I am replacing the accumulator because I was told that if you find metal shavings in the orfice tube it would probably be a good idea. Also the part was only 30 bucks which I feel is pretty cheap. Although in my opinion I dont see how metal shavings could get past the orfice tube to enter the accumulator

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Well on Sunday I pulled the compressor and swapped it out with a new one. Vacuumed it for about an hour and charged it. So far everything is working properly. Ive noticed the passenger side is colder but I can live with that. Everyones advice was extremely helpful so thankyou to all!!!!

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The metal shavings may well have been fragments from the compressor's reed valves.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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How much refrigerant did you charge into the system? Did you use 12 oz cans? If so, you'll lose 1/2 to 1 oz of refrigerant when you change the can and bleed the air from the hose.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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  • 1 month later...

How much refrigerant did you charge into the system? Did you use 12 oz cans? If so, you'll lose 1/2 to 1 oz of refrigerant when you change the can and bleed the air from the hose.

I know this response is very delayed but you are correct, I used the smaller cans and while changing them out I must have lost some and had to go back to the store for one final can to top it off after already purchasing three cans which should have been more than enough.

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Check your codes, if the passenger side is colder it could be a bad actuator or the drivers side could be mal adjusted

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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