thaghost87 Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 Time for me to do my rear brakes, as i noticed a day ago i can feel them starting to grind, and if i drive a while the start to make noise. I have selected the RAYBESTOS Part # 56698 for rotors and MONROE Part # DX754A for pads. all from rockauto. has anyone used either of those pads, or rotors before? and if so how did you like them? Any tips, tricks or recomendations for when i do this job? I know to bleed each side before pushing the piston back in. Is there a particular brake fluid company thats better, or all they all the same as long as its DOT 3? I will also inspect my hubs while i have everything off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 The rear pistons do not "push" in; the piston must be rotated CW. There is a cube tool sold at aftermarket parts stores but I have used an open end 5/8" or 11/16" wrench to do the job. When was the last time fresh brake fluid was pulled through the entire plumbing? If more than 2 years ago, I would use this opportunity to do that. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted October 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 The rear pistons do not "push" in; the piston must be rotated CW. There is a cube tool sold at aftermarket parts stores but I have used an open end 5/8" or 11/16" wrench to do the job. When was the last time fresh brake fluid was pulled through the entire plumbing? If more than 2 years ago, I would use this opportunity to do that. honestly i dont know how old the brake fluid is. What would be the easiest way to flush the system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 As Jim said, you can use a brake cube to rotate the rear caliper. I have tried it with pliers or a wrench and I think it is worth the investment in a brake cube. To replace the brake fluid you follow the same procedure as for bleeding the brakes. Simply attach a clear hole to the bleed fitting and crack the fitting open while someone pushes the brake pedal. To open the bleed fitting use a six point socket or box end wrench at first and then attach the hose. That way you won't strip the fitting. Make sure you keep an eye on the fluid in the master cylinder and don't let it run to low or you will suck a bunch of air in the lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted October 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 As Jim said, you can use a brake cube to rotate the rear caliper. I have tried it with pliers or a wrench and I think it is worth the investment in a brake cube. To replace the brake fluid you follow the same procedure as for bleeding the brakes. Simply attach a clear hole to the bleed fitting and crack the fitting open while someone pushes the brake pedal. To open the bleed fitting use a six point socket or box end wrench at first and then attach the hose. That way you won't strip the fitting. Make sure you keep an eye on the fluid in the master cylinder and don't let it run to low or you will suck a bunch of air in the lines. so doest that mean a vac is not needed? just pump the pedal and add fluid to maintain the level once the bleeder is open? also is there a specific size six point socket wrench? also does anyone know how much fluid the system holds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 As Jim said, you can use a brake cube to rotate the rear caliper. I have tried it with pliers or a wrench and I think it is worth the investment in a brake cube. To replace the brake fluid you follow the same procedure as for bleeding the brakes. Simply attach a clear hole to the bleed fitting and crack the fitting open while someone pushes the brake pedal. To open the bleed fitting use a six point socket or box end wrench at first and then attach the hose. That way you won't strip the fitting. Make sure you keep an eye on the fluid in the master cylinder and don't let it run to low or you will suck a bunch of air in the lines. so doest that mean a vac is not needed? just pump the pedal and add fluid to maintain the level once the bleeder is open? also is there a specific size six point socket wrench? also does anyone know how much fluid the system holds? Don't "pump" the pedal with the bleeder open or air will get sucked in when the pedal is released. You need to have someone in the driver's seat to press and hold the brake pedal. When they have it pressed, you open the bleeder screw (with a length of clear tubing attached and submerged in brake fluid) and once the fluid stops coming out of the bleeder screw, close it and then say"RELEASE". Wait 10 seconds and then repeat until new brake fluid comes out of the screw. It will take about a quart of fluid to "flush" the system. An alternate method is to use a handheld vacuum pump on the bleeder screw - then you can draw vacuum and open the bleeder screw and close it when the vaccum container is full or when clean fluid comes out. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jking220 Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 Wait 10 seconds and then repeat until new brake fluid comes out of the screw. Dont you need to pump the brakes with the bleeder tight to build pressure up? Its a quick and easy two man job, as long as you dont break a bleeder off, so I would first spray all the bleeders down with PB blaster so I could get them out. Just put your box end wrench on the bleeder, put the hose on the bleeder, and put the end of the hose in a container. have the person in the car put and hold pressure on the brakes, then break the bleeder loose. once all the fluid comes out for that push, have them hold the brakes to the floor until you retighten the bleeder. The person in the car can then pump the brakes up (~10 seconds/pumps). once the brakes have pressure again, they can hold the brakes while you break the bleeder loose again. be sure to keep an eye on your fluid level. repeat this until you get fresh fluid from each caliper. be sure to replace the caps on your bleeders. Jonah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jking220 Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 And the car shouldnt be running for this. Jonah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted October 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 thanks everyone. another question.. i heard there is two bleeders per caliper. is that correct? and weather it is or isn't, i only need to do the full flush through one(which one?) of the bleeders and just release the other bleeders when i contract the pistons? or does the full flush have to be done on each bleeder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted October 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 o and does anyone know the size of the box socket that fits the bleeder screw? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jking220 Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 There is one bleeder per caliper. The bleeder should be a 10 mm. Be sure to use a "good" 6 point box end wrench. Be sure to use PB blaster (IMO). If you were planning to do it this weekend, I would try to get the tires off it this week and spray them down to be sure they will break loose when you want them to. It may be handy to have a small propane/map gas torch around incase they wont break loose, but be careful to not heat the caliper up too much, the rubber in the caliper wont take much. Also, if you dont have any RTV around the house, maybe pick up a small bottle while youre out. If you are missing any bleeder caps, you can coat the entire bleeder with RTV to keep the moisture out. Ive tried to find bleeder caps at autozone and such, but they dont appear to carry any. Be sure to have some brake parts cleaner around for cleanup. Jonah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPreston2001 Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 So when flushing the system should one bleed each caliper on each wheel or can you flush the system through one caliper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jking220 Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 So when flushing the system should one bleed each caliper on each wheel or can you flush the system through one caliper? You have to do each caliper. Every car (that I know of atleast) has atleast a short section of brake line that is specific to an individual caliper. There is only one caliper per wheel. Jonah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted October 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 There is one bleeder per caliper. The bleeder should be a 10 mm. Be sure to use a "good" 6 point box end wrench. Be sure to use PB blaster (IMO). If you were planning to do it this weekend, I would try to get the tires off it this week and spray them down to be sure they will break loose when you want them to. It may be handy to have a small propane/map gas torch around incase they wont break loose, but be careful to not heat the caliper up too much, the rubber in the caliper wont take much. Also, if you dont have any RTV around the house, maybe pick up a small bottle while youre out. If you are missing any bleeder caps, you can coat the entire bleeder with RTV to keep the moisture out. Ive tried to find bleeder caps at autozone and such, but they dont appear to carry any. Be sure to have some brake parts cleaner around for cleanup. Whats RTV? Could gunk liquid wrench work instead of PB blaster? And to better understand, i i know i have to bleed each caliper. i bleed each one until fresh fluid comes threw the bleeder, and i have fresh fluid in the reservoir. And also the bolts for the caliper, are they just regular sockets or special sockets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 Dana, if there are rubber bushings in your calipers the dealer will sell a caliper kit that will have the bushings included. Replace any rubber bushings if you have any. If you have sliders if they have any corrosion replace the slider also. Use the proper grease also for the sliders. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted October 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 Dana, if there are rubber bushings in your calipers the dealer will sell a caliper kit that will have the bushings included. Replace any rubber bushings if you have any. If you have sliders if they have any corrosion replace the slider also. Use the proper grease also for the sliders. um... not sure which i have... should i just get a caliper kit from the dealer for my specific model car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 Dana, if there are rubber bushings in your calipers the dealer will sell a caliper kit that will have the bushings included. Replace any rubber bushings if you have any. If you have sliders if they have any corrosion replace the slider also. Use the proper grease also for the sliders. um... not sure which i have... should i just get a caliper kit from the dealer for my specific model car? You need someone with a 2000 to post a diagram of your rear brakes so you can see the detail or stop off or call the dealer Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 Wait 10 seconds and then repeat until new brake fluid comes out of the screw. Dont you need to pump the brakes with the bleeder tight to build pressure up? No - rapid "Pumping" of the brakes can cause bubbles that can be difficult to remove. That is the reason for waiting 10 seconds after releasing the brake pedal before repeating the press & hold, open bleeder balve, hold pedal to the floor, close bleeder valve, release sequence. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jking220 Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 No - rapid "Pumping" of the brakes can cause bubbles that can be difficult to remove. That is the reason for waiting 10 seconds after releasing the brake pedal before repeating the press & hold, open bleeder balve, hold pedal to the floor, close bleeder valve, release sequence. Good to know, I have to bleed my system out before winter. Thanks Kevin Jonah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 No one mentioned this because it is so basic, but I get the impression that Dana has never done this before so I am going to state the obvious. Be sure that the brake fluid reservoir cap is on when you or your assistant presses on the pedal or you will have a brake fluid geyser under the hood. Check it frequently to keep it full. Also to save yourself some time, before you start, suck the reservoir dry and refill with fresh fluid. That way you start out by pumping fresh fluid through the lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted October 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 No one mentioned this because it is so basic, but I get the impression that Dana has never done this before so I am going to state the obvious. Be sure that the brake fluid reservoir cap is on when you or your assistant presses on the pedal or you will have a brake fluid geyser under the hood. Check it frequently to keep pit full. Also to save yourself some time, before you start, suck the reservoir dry and refill with fresh fluid. That way you start out by pumping fresh fluid through the lines. lol you are right.. never did them before, but i did read that in my Lincoln tech auto. tech book! thanks Ranger. Also even though im not doing the front i need to bleed those as well to get all the old fluid out, right? and if so what is the sequence that i should bleed the system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 ..Also even though im not doing the front i need to bleed those as well to get all the old fluid out, right? and if so what is the sequence that i should bleed the system? Yes, bleed the fronts as well to completely displace all the (moisture laden) 'old fluid'. No need to be concerned about a 'sequence'. The calipers are individually plumbed to the ABS module. Simply continue to pull or push fluid through the plumbing until you are seeing clear brake fluid at whichever corner you are working with. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted October 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 ..Also even though im not doing the front i need to bleed those as well to get all the old fluid out, right? and if so what is the sequence that i should bleed the system? Yes, bleed the fronts as well to completely displace all the (moisture laden) 'old fluid'. No need to be concerned about a 'sequence'. The calipers are individually plumbed to the ABS module. Simply continue to pull or push fluid through the plumbing until you are seeing clear brake fluid at whichever corner you are working with. thanks jim... hope all goes well. i will be doing the job tomorrow when the parts arrive, and as long as the bleeder screw doesn't give me any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 When you're done with each caliper, don't overtighten the bleeder screw or it has a much higher chance of snapping off the next time you need to bleed the calipers. Use a torque wrench & torque it to spec. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted October 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 When you're done with each caliper, don't overtighten the bleeder screw or it has a much higher chance of snapping off the next time you need to bleed the calipers. Use a torque wrench & torque it to spec. If my bleeders are in bad condition could i replace them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.