Jump to content

Phillip

Registered
  • Content Count

    177
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Phillip

  • Rank
    Regular (100+ posts)

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    STS 1996

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0
  1. Hmmm. That is interesting. As you may have been able to figure out, I am not an electrical guy. I am learing alot now though. I may have to go shopping for one of these. I assume you can get ones that condition multiple batteries.
  2. Yes, I have never seen a battery freeze, but I guess I would like to keep it that way. I don't trickle charge my batteries in storage, I simply set them aside and wait for spring. I don't usually even charge them before reinstalling. I have never had a problem. Would the batteries last better if they were trickle charged?
  3. We don't store the Caddy. Even though it has been laid up all summer, we use the car as a daily driver most of the year. In the summer I have a 75 pontiac convertible and my wife has an old camaro, so I try to do all my heavy maintenance then, when we have the extra cars available. When they go into storage, we use the Caddy everyday. If you drove the car enough, the battery would not have a chance to rundown with the small drain, but my wife makes a lot of short trips around town and when the temperature dips to -20 or below, the battery doesn't really recover all that well without a good
  4. Jim, You raise some good points. Yes, I did check the grounds and electrical connections. I haven't diagnosed the power window failure yet and I will do to that before I tackle any modifications. You just never know what might come of that. I have disconnected the RFA module and that had no affect. I am expecially puzzled how the AMP fuse can have an impact on this. The absence of power to the door speakers seems like an unlikely suspect, unless there is a fault in the wires in one of the doors. I cannot find anything to indicate this, although I have not specifically checked th
  5. Jim, Let me clarify. With the Bose Relays removed, the load did not change right away. After 20 minutes, the load went away, from which I inferred that the PZM went to sleep when the Bose Relays were removed, but did not go to sleep when they were installed. Further, installing the Bose Relays once the PZM was asleep, had no affect (ie. the load stayed at 0.02 amps). With respect to the trunk lid, I have always worked with the trunk lid down. Since the interior is out of the car, I have worked from the passenger compartment. On some occasions I would sit in the car, waiting 20 minutes
  6. I agree, but I have removed the seat belt sensors, disconnected the resistor that was used to jumper the key-in sensor and checked the door sensors. All to no avail. Also, removing the Bose relays themselves, did not affect the load. I feel like I have failed because I know there is a logical explanation for this but I can't find it. I can however, rework it so that I have the same functionality. I guess I will have to settle for that. Sorry.
  7. Jim, you have been thorough as always. I have already checked all the inputs to the PZM with the acception of the Class 2 Serial Bus. All were OK. As for the Serial Bus, I am not giving myself much of a chance of figuring out what is going on in there. I agree that the load is about right for a relay. There are so many relays in the car that I don't know where else to look. I removed EVERY relay in the trunk and engine compartment relay centers and this did not find it. I should point out that I removed EVERY relay at the same time. No relays left in either locations but still the d
  8. With each test taking over 20 minutes, I can't get much done, but tonight I did a few more checks. I confirmed that removing the AMP allows the PZM to go to sleep after 20 minutes. I confirmed this by waiting about 15 minutes when the load had dropped to 0.28 amps. This is the same load that is experienced indefinately if the AMP fuse is in place. I removed the Controlled Power Relay and the load dropped to 0.14 amps. With the PZM asleep, the load is 0.03 amps. The difference of 0.11 amps must be from the PZM, since I could not find any other fuse or relay that affected this (including th
  9. Yes, taking the keys out of the ignition is simple but I understand 1997 Seville's problem. I have an aftermarket remote starter installed on my car and in order to make it work, they had to put a resistor in the security circuit so the car thinks the key is in the ignition all the time. That means that whenever the drivers door is open the chime is on. It makes cleaning time a little annoying. I chose to tolerate it and do most of the cleaning through the other three doors but if you could disable the chime easily, I would go for it.
  10. When I was looking over the electrical drawings for my '96, I notice two wires between the Radio and the Radio Interface Module labelled Chime (+) and Chime (-). I wonder what would happen if you cut these. If it happened to bugger things up, it should be fairly easy to reinstate them. I am not necessarily recommending this, it is just something I noticed. Let's call it food for thought.
  11. Just a follow-up to my last post. I checked the drawing of the AMP fuse. It looks like it only supplies power to the four speakers. How can this keep the PZM awake. This is getting "curiouser and curiouser".
  12. I have the same issue with my chime, but have been unable to find a way to program it out. As for suppressing it by pulling a fuse, I wouldn't give that much hope. If I have learned anything in the past few months it is that these cars are incredibly complex pieces of electronic equipment. So many systems are integrated that it is very difficult to know where to start. I guess my advise is to "grin and bear it". That being said, if you find a solution, please let us know.
  13. I am glad that somebody else is sharing my pain. I would especially like to thank Jim. Believe me, I know how much time it takes wading through the FSM. Mine is starting to get worn out. Hopefully in the end, this exercise will prove helpful to others. Anyway, I was confused by the AMP fuse since I recalled that it was fed by the Retained Accessory Power system, but I found elsewhere that it is hot at all times on the Seville with the Bose system (which I have). However, I know that this fuse has an impact on the behavior of the PZM. I went looking for the electrical drawing of the Bos
  14. My experience has been that 55 mph is certainly the optimum for most cars, but my northstar and other large engine cars seem to have a flatter curve at the upper end (ie. the drop in fuel economy from 55 to 75 is less with the big engines than it is with the small engines). This is a gross generalization based on limited vehicles, but I wouldn't be surprised if testing proved it out.
  15. Well I made some progress today. I found that, with the AMP fuse removed, the PZM would go to sleep and the drain would drop to 0.02 after 20 minutes. There is still some strange behavior with the Retained Accessory Power system. While it seems to operate correctly (the radio shuts off when you open the door) the Controlled Power Relay and the Accessory Time Delay Relay remain grounded by the PZM. After 20 minutes without being disturbed, the PZM finally removes the ground from the ATDR but still not the CPR. My next step is to study the manual some more. I want to see what is on the
×
×
  • Create New...