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Trunk/Fuel Door Remote Failure


WarrenJ

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This would likely be an easy fix if only it weren't intermittent.

Every 5-6 weeks, or so, my remote fails to open the trunk. Coincidently, it also fails to open the fuel door. Dash buttons for the trunk lid and fuel door are also inoperative when this happens. The remote successfully opens/locks the doors without problem.

This only happens when both my arms are full of groceries etc.; Mr. Murphy seems to occupy the rumble seat I didn't know I had.

Anyone been through this? I'm getting "smurfal" here!

Regards,

Warren

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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Warren:

Several possiblities for your situation.

Remote battery condition?

Carbon contact cleanliness in the remote?

Battery condition in the vehicle? But if you do not experience any slow cranks, this is a WAG.

You have mentioned that your key chain weighs more than the average hamburger; maybe there is a clue there?

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Warren:

Several possiblities for your situation.

Remote battery condition?

Carbon contact cleanliness in the remote?

Battery condition in the vehicle? But if you do not experience any slow cranks, this is a WAG.

You have mentioned that your key chain weighs more than the average hamburger; maybe there is a clue there?

Thanks, Jim.

The remote battery was recently replaced. I'm inclined to rely on both the remote battery and its contacts. Remember, door lock/unlock works. The car battery is new as of 1/08. Cranks like a madman.

My key chain w/fob has both keys only. That "Hamburger" thing is from elseperson. :rolleyes: BbF can tell you about my key chain . . . and a little more. :D

Regards,

Warren

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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Perhaps a relay? I once replaced the trunk release on my wifes '96 Bonneville only to discover that there relays was at fault. :angry:

OKAY, but which relay?

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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In my case I could hear it clicking under the dash so it was no trouble locating it. In your case, I guess you'd have to locate it with the FSM or maybe the owners manual will show it's location.

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OKAY, but which relay?

Smart A$$ answer... the trunk release and fuel door relay of course. :D

Just kidding you. :D:D:D

Don't pay any attention to me.

I could never ignore you Jim. :D

If it weren't so intermittent, it would likely be an easy fix. There's the rub.

Regards,

Warren

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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....Every 5-6 weeks, or so, my remote fails to open the trunk. Coincidently, it also fails to open the fuel door. Dash buttons for the trunk lid and fuel door are also inoperative when this happens.

After looking at the trunk release and fuel door release schematic diagrams for my '98 STS and '04 DTS, I have a couple of possibilities you might consider.

One would be the Valet switch is corroded, or failing, or not firmly positioned to OFF. Exercising the Valet switch several times might be productive.

Those release solenoids are powered through relays and the power source is a single 15A fuse identified as "BODY". A corroded fuse socket or relay socket should be considered.

The relay coils are powered through a 10A fuse identified as "ALDL". The relay coil ground logic is determined by the RIM.

I do not have Eldo schematics so fuse identifiers and locations from other body styles are not going to help you very much here.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Exercising the Valet switch several times might be productive.

Yes, tried that. Thanks for the other suggestions.

If only it wasn't SO $%$ intermittent!

Regards,

Warren

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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I too had a topic earlier on the trunk failure with the remote/and also the dash button. Now I see that when the trunk release (both ways) doesnt work, when I either push the button on the dash OR use the remote, the interior light dims a bit, kind of telling me its trying, but no release or clicking anywhere. From my basic experience, it is telling me that power is going somewhere, but that a relay isn't working. Does anyone know where the relay is for the trunk on a 96 Cad. SLS? Thanks in advance!!

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. . . . From my basic experience, it is telling me that power is going somewhere, but that a relay isn't working.

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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IF we are talking about the solenoid that is just behind the trunk key, which if it fails, will cause your remote amd glove box controls to become useless, then I would replace it. I fought mine for a long time because it would work, not work, work again. Lots of clicking. Hope that is the problem. I think the replacement part for my 94 was under $50.

Kent

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Warren,

I had a similar problem on my Fleetwood a couple of years ago - the trunk wouldn't release using the remote or the button in the glove box. It was very intermittent but could be counted to act up whenever it was least convenient...

I finally got a chance to troubleshoot it when it acted up and discovered the problem by accident. When I went to unplug the release solenoid to check for voltage at the harness, I discovered the connector pins on the solenoid were loose. Not wanting to pay $50 for a new solenoid, I removed it, drilled out the rivets and opened the case. I resoldered the pins to the cicuit board and pop-riveted it back together and reinstalled it. It has been fine ever since.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Warren,

I had a similar problem on my Fleetwood a couple of years ago - the trunk wouldn't release using the remote or the button in the glove box. It was very intermittent but could be counted to act up whenever it was least convenient...

I finally got a chance to troubleshoot it when it acted up and discovered the problem by accident. When I went to unplug the release solenoid to check for voltage at the harness, I discovered the connector pins on the solenoid were loose. Not wanting to pay $50 for a new solenoid, I removed it, drilled out the rivets and opened the case. I resoldered the pins to the cicuit board and pop-riveted it back together and reinstalled it. It has been fine ever since.

I think I have the same thing happening with a passenger seat recline motor, it just stops, jiggle the connector and it will work.. I think its internal to the motor.

Didn't mean to hi-jack this thread, Ill start a new one when I pull it out...

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Warren,

I had a similar problem on my Fleetwood a couple of years ago - the trunk wouldn't release using the remote or the button in the glove box. It was very intermittent but could be counted to act up whenever it was least convenient...

I finally got a chance to troubleshoot it when it acted up and discovered the problem by accident. When I went to unplug the release solenoid to check for voltage at the harness, I discovered the connector pins on the solenoid were loose. Not wanting to pay $50 for a new solenoid, I removed it, drilled out the rivets and opened the case. I resoldered the pins to the cicuit board and pop-riveted it back together and reinstalled it. It has been fine ever since.

I think I have the same thing happening with a passenger seat recline motor, it just stops, jiggle the connector and it will work.. I think its internal to the motor.

Didn't mean to hi-jack this thread, Ill start a new one when I pull it out...

Well, took the lockset apart, and believe the solenoid that kicks out to unlock was a bit dry, therefore, when it called to snap back, no go. A little oil, and hopefully that takes care of it. Now Ill probably hear to never, ever oil that cylinder <_<

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