fivepointohman Posted June 2, 2008 Report Share Posted June 2, 2008 OK so to go along with my coolant post, my buddy was told that his heads showed signs of low octane usage, by showing excessive carbon deposites on the valves and pistons... Again 87K motor.. They also told him he had a burned exhaust valve, althought the car had no misses, skips, codes or anything of that nature.. I know for a fact he used 93 or better in his for the last 4 years he owned the car... I run 89 on mine, however now I am second guessing if I should use 93 or better just for carbon biuldup? I have been noticing a few puffs of blew at startup and also when I go WOT. Am i getting a crazy carbon biuldup? Car runs great on 89, but if its hurting the motor I will go to 93 instantly. Any thoughs on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 2, 2008 Report Share Posted June 2, 2008 Fivepoint, its quite the opposite, check my post #18 in this thread and read the links http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...15&start=15 Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fivepointohman Posted June 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2008 Fivepoint, its quite the opposite, check my post #18 in this thread and read the links http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...15&start=15 SO from what i gather it makes no big difference... So why would the engine shop tell him that it's causing carbon biuldup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 2, 2008 Report Share Posted June 2, 2008 Fivepoint, its quite the opposite, check my post #18 in this thread and read the links <a href="http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...15&start=15" target="_blank">http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...15&start=15</a> SO from what i gather it makes no big difference... So why would the engine shop tell him that it's causing carbon biuldup? By the way, YOUR engine and mine is designed to run on premium, I use the middle grade. Keep doing WOTs that is all you need to do. Mechanics talk to hear themselves talk and spew urban legends.. Just keep driving your NS hard a few times a week or perform the WOT procedure Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted June 2, 2008 Report Share Posted June 2, 2008 SO from what i gather it makes no big difference... So why would the engine shop tell him that it's causing carbon biuldup? There are a lot of folks out there who have gotten wrong information over the years. In general, you want to run the lowest octane that your engine can use satisfactorily. I'm kind of a hipocrite, because I do enjoy the extra performance of premium in my '01. That said, I put mid-grade in it on the last road trip and didn't notice a real difference. Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted June 2, 2008 Report Share Posted June 2, 2008 SO from what i gather it makes no big difference... So why would the engine shop tell him that it's causing carbon biuldup? There are a lot of folks out there who have gotten wrong information over the years. In general, you want to run the lowest octane that your engine can use satisfactorily. I'm kind of a hipocrite, because I do enjoy the extra performance of premium in my '01. That said, I put mid-grade in it on the last road trip and didn't notice a real difference. OKAY, I know I sound like a broken record, but you might want to consider the 50% factor ... <a href="http://www.toptiergas.com/" "target="_blank">http://www.toptiergas.com/</a> While there, you also might want to click on "WHY TOP TIER." I'm a fan of Shell V-Power, one of the few "Tier II" gasolines available in my area. Regards, Warren There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 OK so to go along with my coolant post, my buddy was told that his heads showed signs of low octane usage, by showing excessive carbon deposites on the valves and pistons... Again 87K motor.. They also told him he had a burned exhaust valve, althought the car had no misses, skips, codes or anything of that nature.. I know for a fact he used 93 or better in his for the last 4 years he owned the car... I run 89 on mine, however now I am second guessing if I should use 93 or better just for carbon biuldup? I have been noticing a few puffs of blew at startup and also when I go WOT. Am i getting a crazy carbon biuldup? Car runs great on 89, but if its hurting the motor I will go to 93 instantly. Any thoughs on this? I think that if he had a burned exhaust valve... it would have a miss in it. One quick way to find out.... COMPRESSION CHECK. If there is a burned valve... one cylinder will be quite a bit lower than the other seven. BLUE SMOKE is oil... not gas. Gas smoke is BLACK. There is actually a PROCEDURE for doing WOT. It is more than just standing on it every once in a while. Maybe the mechanic told your friend that, just to make some extra money off of him, if he would fall for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 I'm a fan of Shell V-Power, one of the few "Tier II" gasolines available in my area. Regards, Warren Warren, I too am a fan of Shell V-Power. It runs well in my DTS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fivepointohman Posted June 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 I'm a fan of Shell V-Power, one of the few "Tier II" gasolines available in my area. Regards, Warren Warren, I too am a fan of Shell V-Power. It runs well in my DTS. OK, explain how to do the WOT excersises?, Bodybyfisher, What oil do you use and grade... I dont want to run 10W30 any longer as I feel its way to thin for summer / Racing duties... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 OK, explain how to do the WOT excersises?, Bodybyfisher, What oil do you use and grade... I dont want to run 10W30 any longer as I feel its way to thin for summer / Racing duties... The WOT exercise is simple: At 50mph put the stick in 2nd and accelerate hard to 70mph. Here's the important part: decelerate, without using the brakes, to 50mph. This makes the top piston ring "dance," presumably cleaning the top piston ring groove. Repeat until you no longer see crap out of your tailpipe. This is expected to reduce oil use. That's all. Regards, Warren P.S. BbF uses odd oil for reasons likely different than yours. He has a half case leak and low oil pressure at idle. There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wotmode Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 SO from what i gather it makes no big difference... So why would the engine shop tell him that it's causing carbon biuldup? There are a lot of folks out there who have gotten wrong information over the years. In general, you want to run the lowest octane that your engine can use satisfactorily. I'm kind of a hipocrite, because I do enjoy the extra performance of premium in my '01. That said, I put mid-grade in it on the last road trip and didn't notice a real difference. You are spot on. The lowest octane you can use without knock retard, the more power you have at the crank. The ecm/pcm has a max spark advance of roughly 30 deg BTDC. Using higher octane will not allow more spark advance, just an incomplete burn. Running mid-grade probably doesn't induce knock retard in the pcm. Therefore no power is lost. Actually power is gained because the lower octane fuel burns faster and thus more completely. A good example is my pick up truck. It has a hyper tech installed in it. My best power, according to a G-tech, was with the programmer set for 93 octane using 87 octane fuel. I usually had 2 - 3 degrees of knock retard in high rpm at wide open throttle. Using higher octane than what is called for is not only more money at the pump, but more on repair in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 I'm a fan of Shell V-Power, one of the few "Tier II" gasolines available in my area. Regards, Warren Warren, I too am a fan of Shell V-Power. It runs well in my DTS. OK, explain how to do the WOT excersises?, Bodybyfisher, What oil do you use and grade... I dont want to run 10W30 any longer as I feel its way to thin for summer / Racing duties... If you can use 10W30 keep using it, but you might want to supplement it with GM EOS. I am not sure how much EOS you should use, KHE will comment on that, but the EOS will spike your oil with more zinc that is needed in our 96 engines and any NS's that don't have roller cams (1999 and older). Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 If you can use 10W30 keep using it, but you might want to supplement it with GM EOS. I am not sure how much EOS you should use, KHE will comment on that, but the EOS will spike your oil with more zinc that is needed in our 96 engines and any NS's that don't have roller cams (2000 and older). I wonder if there may be a small benefit in using a small amount of the EOS even in a newer engine, just because of it's anti wear additives? I have a mental picture of my engine .... when I am on a long distance run... hour after hour at 3000 RPM... of all the moving parts wearing against each other and wearing OUT. Also think about it when I PUNCH IT going up the freeway onramp and it's at 6,500 RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 You are using synthetic in that 06?, do you know if synthetic has been affected by the reduction in zinc, as the dino oils have been? Maybe someone knows the answer to that. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wotmode Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 If you can use 10W30 keep using it, but you might want to supplement it with GM EOS. I am not sure how much EOS you should use, KHE will comment on that, but the EOS will spike your oil with more zinc that is needed in our 96 engines and any NS's that don't have roller cams (2000 and older). I wonder if there may be a small benefit in using a small amount of the EOS even in a newer engine, just because of it's anti wear additives? I have a mental picture of my engine .... when I am on a long distance run... hour after hour at 3000 RPM... of all the moving parts wearing against each other and wearing OUT. Also think about it when I PUNCH IT going up the freeway onramp and it's at 6,500 RPM. Your engine parts are not wearing against each other like you would think. The oil is designed to be a barrier between moving parts. Most of you wear happens at start up. When I tore my 95 down to do head gaskets and block reseal, my cams, lifters and lower end bearings were fine at 180,000 miles. I use the cheapest oil and change it at 50% oil life monitor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fivepointohman Posted June 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 If you can use 10W30 keep using it, but you might want to supplement it with GM EOS. I am not sure how much EOS you should use, KHE will comment on that, but the EOS will spike your oil with more zinc that is needed in our 96 engines and any NS's that don't have roller cams (2000 and older). I wonder if there may be a small benefit in using a small amount of the EOS even in a newer engine, just because of it's anti wear additives? I have a mental picture of my engine .... when I am on a long distance run... hour after hour at 3000 RPM... of all the moving parts wearing against each other and wearing OUT. Also think about it when I PUNCH IT going up the freeway onramp and it's at 6,500 RPM. Your engine parts are not wearing against each other like you would think. The oil is designed to be a barrier between moving parts. Most of you wear happens at start up. When I tore my 95 down to do head gaskets and block reseal, my cams, lifters and lower end bearings were fine at 180,000 miles. I use the cheapest oil and change it at 50% oil life monitor. Ok what is EOS and where can I get it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 EOS = GM Engine Oil Supplement, get it at a GM dealer. DO NOT use an entire quart. Hopefully KHE will chime in on how much to use, I think he uses a half of a pint Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jking220 Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 any NS's that don't have roller cams (2000 and older). Wouldnt this be 1999 and older? I thought they went to rollers in 2000, not 2001. Jonah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 yes my mistake, 99 and older, good eye I corrected it Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fivepointohman Posted June 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 yes my mistake, 99 and older, good eye I corrected it Ok excellent I will call the dealer today... Just an FYI, the car puffs the blue not when sitting over nite and initial morning startup, but when I start the car move it to the garage, shut it down, start it again, shut down etc with only a minute of run time per start up... As if oil just seeps down in the cylinders. other than that, it runs clean and strong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 Is it true that these protective compounds wear out over time - after being exposed to combustion & internal engine elements? My OLM is at 93%, but the oil has been in the car for over 1 year. Should I change it, or should I just put in a little EOS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 Is it true that these protective compounds wear out over time - after being exposed to combustion & internal engine elements? My OLM is at 93%, but the oil has been in the car for over 1 year. Should I change it, or should I just put in a little EOS? How many miles do you have on the car over that time? It must be near no miles right? Is the car sitting? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 Yes, the car has been idle alot sitting in the garage the last 4 years. since I changed the oil about 1 year ago (I used mobile 1 synthetic), I put on about 300 miles, and the OLM is about 93-95%. I am out-of-state again, so I can't check the exact %. I recently discovered I may not have the oil aspects covered for an occasional use pre '99 N* To my delight, I actually used it this past weekend, and put about 30 miles on it. when it first started up, I thought I heard what sounded like a valve tap, but at the end of the day after the 30 miles, it was back to it's quiet self. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 ....My OLM is at 93%, but the oil has been in the car for over 1 year. Should I change it,... Change it. Your Owner's Manual will have something to say about ".... maximum oil change period is one year." Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 I am actually surprised that it is not lower. The problem is that you are not getting the oil hot enough to burn out fuel and moisture. I agree with Jim, you should change it Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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