vavs Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 I have a 1998 Eldorado with 45K miles. I had a pulsing from the rear brakes which a parts manager friend said was most likely a "hot spot" on the rotor. He got me a great deal on a new set of rotors and pads. I went to install the pads and have a problem. The emergency brake cable is attached to the caliper via a small bracket. The bracket has a bolt in the middle which would allow the cable to be detached from the caliper. I cannot seem to break the bolt free which makes it impossible to lift the caliper high enough to pull it off the rotor. Is there somewhere to get information on how to remove the cable so that I can replace the rotors and pads? I have tried WD40 on the bolt but I think I may need something stronger. Am I going at the process correctly? I am new to this forum so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. BTW this is my first Cadillac so be gentle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadillac360 Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 I dont even remember dealing with that on my 96 deville, but anyways, if you are looking for all kinds of information for your car, try buying a Haynes Repair Manual. Ive had one for every car ive owned. They literally tear apart a brand new car and put it back, so it covers almost everything. (I know this may not help your problem) (but these guys don't like them) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 Buy a FSM (Factory Service Manual) by Helm Inc. More expensive but well worth the money. Haynes & Chiltons can't even come close to the information in them. I just pulled the calipers off a '98 Deville Sat. and did not remove the parking brake cable. It has enough flex in it to move it out of the way. Just unplug the wheel speed sensor connector first. If I remember correctly, you have to jack the wheel up from under the control arm. If you jack it up by the body and let the suspension hang, then there is definately not enough room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
up2ng Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 Buy a FSM (Factory Service Manual) by Helm Inc. More expensive but well worth the money. Haynes & Chiltons can't even come close to the information in them. I just pulled the calipers off a '98 Deville Sat. and did not remove the parking brake cable. It has enough flex in it to move it out of the way. Just unplug the wheel speed sensor connector first. If I remember correctly, you have to jack the wheel up from under the control arm. If you jack it up by the body and let the suspension hang, then there is definately not enough room. A 6" extention and jacking the assembly until it all lines up (looking to the side). If I remember correctly, it is the drivers side that is the pain ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 (but these guys don't like them) OMG... 16 posts and we are being talked about, uh, uh, uh, Try to get the lay of the land, we have been together for at least 8 years or more, we used to be privileged to have a GM Powertrain Engineer frequent this site, you will see reference to the guru at times, pay particular attention to those statements. Most of us here have advanced mechanical abilities. If you look around you will be humbled by the number of members that have time-serted their Northstar engines both in and out of their cars. We have a member that turbocharged his NS platform and got over 500 hp out of it with the stock PCM. I am deeply humbled by our membership. Typically when one of the old timers / regulars makes a statement their opinion has a long lineage. Can they be wrong, yep, I see things differently all the time, and miss the obvious, but that is what makes this so challenging, someone immediately picks you up... So when we say we don't care for Chilton's or Haynes, its because the publication is beneath our abilities and the FSM is the only publication that will provide complete, concise and accurate information on all of the vehicles systems. A very complex vehicle I might add Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STSSCOTT Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 I just did my 95 seville and had no problem at all taking the bolts out of the parking brake support bracket, without doing this I could not get enough clearance to get the rotors off. I replaced both the rotors and pads with Duralast parts from Auto Zone for $70 for everything, 2yr warranty on rotors an lifetime on pads, you can't beat that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkz71 Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 So when we say we don't care for Chilton's or Haynes, its because the publication is beneath our abilities and the FSM is the only publication that will provide complete, concise and accurate information on all of the vehicles systems. A very complex vehicle I might add Especially now that Helms has the FSM's for half price. Check e-bay first, I got a set for $40 there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 I have a 1998 Eldorado with 45K miles. I had a pulsing from the rear brakes which a parts manager friend said was most likely a "hot spot" on the rotor. He got me a great deal on a new set of rotors and pads. I went to install the pads and have a problem. The emergency brake cable is attached to the caliper via a small bracket. The bracket has a bolt in the middle which would allow the cable to be detached from the caliper. I cannot seem to break the bolt free which makes it impossible to lift the caliper high enough to pull it off the rotor. Is there somewhere to get information on how to remove the cable so that I can replace the rotors and pads? I have tried WD40 on the bolt but I think I may need something stronger. Am I going at the process correctly? I am new to this forum so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. BTW this is my first Cadillac so be gentle. I have always removed the bolt that you are describing - it will allow enough slack in the cable to pivot the caliper. Try using an impact wrench and/or some good penetrating oil - WD-40 is not a very good penetrant oil. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kens96 Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 I just recently completed a 4 rotors and pads all around replacement on my 96 Eldo. You need to take that small bolt out that holds the cable to the caliper. There is a small spring clip holding the ferrell end of the cable to the caliper...take note on how it is in there. There is also an 18MM bolt holding the caliper to the rear rotor assemby that has to be removed to get the rotor off. That will take some effort. I used a 1/2 breaker bar and a 6 pt socket to get it to move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 recently changed the rear pads and discs on my 00 STS, i left the brake cable attached to the caliper on both sides. hardest part was screwing the pistons back in, they were too stiff to use needle pliers so i bought the brake cube tool. the caliper bolts came undone without too much effort, i used a breaker bar as matter of course and used a torque wrench on reassembly. when winding back the pistons you really should clamp the brake hose and crack open the bleed screw. if you don't then you may be pushing contaminated brake fluid into the ABS pump. i recently had to change my pump due to a sticking valve which i had suggested to me may have been caused by contaminated fluid (BBA Remanufacturing here in the UK) edit is spelign Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caddypete Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 WD 40 is not a choice for freeing up bolts, it is good for stopping creeks in door hinges, get a penatrating fluid for rusted bolts. On my 2000 eldo I was able to get the caliber out of the way without taking the cable off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 I dont even remember dealing with that on my 96 deville, but anyways, if you are looking for all kinds of information for your car, try buying a Haynes Repair Manual. Ive had one for every car ive owned. They literally tear apart a brand new car and put it back, so it covers almost everything. (I know this may not help your problem) (but these guys don't like them) If you compare certain parts in the FSM and say, Chilton, you may find procedures described in Chilton sometimes more useful compared to ones in the FSM. Though rarely, it does happen. BUT, the FSM contains a lot of unique info you simply cannot find in Chilton. I guess same applies to Haynes. Just compare the volume of Haynes and the FSM and you'll see the difference. There is nothing wrong with having a favorite service manual though no matter what "these guys" say. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000 STS MN Posted October 25, 2006 Report Share Posted October 25, 2006 I have a 1998 Eldorado with 45K miles. I had a pulsing from the rear brakes which a parts manager friend said was most likely a "hot spot" on the rotor. He got me a great deal on a new set of rotors and pads. I went to install the pads and have a problem. The emergency brake cable is attached to the caliper via a small bracket. The bracket has a bolt in the middle which would allow the cable to be detached from the caliper. I cannot seem to break the bolt free which makes it impossible to lift the caliper high enough to pull it off the rotor. Is there somewhere to get information on how to remove the cable so that I can replace the rotors and pads? I have tried WD40 on the bolt but I think I may need something stronger. Am I going at the process correctly? I am new to this forum so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. BTW this is my first Cadillac so be gentle. I have always removed the bolt that you are describing - it will allow enough slack in the cable to pivot the caliper. Try using an impact wrench and/or some good penetrating oil - WD-40 is not a very good penetrant oil. Try a product called "Aero Kroil" Kano Laboratories ""The oil that creeps"" Also, I just recieved my Helm FSM....very nice $67 1/2 price Why doubt the voice (s) of experience!These guys have been there and done it!! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vavs Posted October 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 Thanks all for your responses. I was able to change the rotors and pads. I did have to undo the bolt that held the emergency brake cable. I used a product from a friend. The product is called PB Blaster. A couple of squirts and the bolt loosened. The bolts which held the caliper bracket were a bear to get off. I used PB Blaster on them also and it seems to help. Thanks to the forum and I will be back with other questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted October 30, 2006 Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 Thanks all for your responses. I was able to change the rotors and pads. I did have to undo the bolt that held the emergency brake cable. I used a product from a friend. The product is called PB Blaster. A couple of squirts and the bolt loosened. The bolts which held the caliper bracket were a bear to get off. I used PB Blaster on them also and it seems to help. Thanks to the forum and I will be back with other questions. Good Job! I removed the bolt for the emergency brake cable as well. I'm not sure I had to, but it came loose easily, so I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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