Patrick7997 Posted October 14, 2006 Report Share Posted October 14, 2006 Okay, so I was going to change out all the brake fluid.... When I go to loosen the bleeder screw, it's super tight. I sprayed it with liquid wrench a couple times, waited an hour, tried again... still super tight. By applying more pressure, I snapped it off, so now it's flush with the back of the plate.... I ruined a couple screw extractors trying to get it out.... Any ideas??? The only plus is, it never moved, so I can still drive the car... As always, I am most appreciative of any suggestions.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 14, 2006 Report Share Posted October 14, 2006 If you are good, you might be able to drill it out, retap it and install an oversized bleeder (if they make them). Otherwise, leave well enough alone or replace the caliper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 14, 2006 Report Share Posted October 14, 2006 Leave it alone. You may need to replace the caliper some day. It will come with a new screw. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel Posted October 14, 2006 Report Share Posted October 14, 2006 if you feel that you ever need to bleed that particular caliper, remove the caliper and brake pads, clamp the flexible hose, loosen the union that connects the flexi hose to the caliper and keeping the loosened union uppermost wind back the piston before retightening the union. if i have trouble with a tight bleed screw i use a blowtorch to heat it up a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 You could leave well enough alone and it wouldn't hurt anything but if you want to fix it, you could replace the caliper or salvage the old one. If you want to salvage the old one, you can remove it and used compressed air on the inlet hole to force the piston out. Be sure to use plenty of shop towels to cushion the piston as it will leave the bore with considerable force. Use only enough air pressure to get the piston out. Loosen up the dust boot from the piston first so it doesn't get torn. Once the piston is removed, remove the dust boot and o-ring and then use an acetylene torch to heat the casting around the bleeder screw, not directly on the broken stub. When the casting is suffciently heated, you can use a screw extractor to remove the broken stub. Clean he rubber parts with denatured alcohol and reinstall them - lube the o-ring with fresh brake fluid and reinstall the piston. You can also replace the rubber parts but the repair kit costs the same as a remanufactured caliper.... That is why I always use a torque wrench to torque bleeder screws to spec. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick7997 Posted October 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Thanks very much for your replies..... and for resisting the urge to call me a dumba**... I appreciate how nice the people on this forum are..... I still can't believe I did that.... (shakes head)... I'm a donkey, what can I say..... I guess I've just been lucky, I've never run into that before... you turn the bleeder, bleeder opens...seems simple enough..... Well, thanks for the replies, I do appreciate it... pretty much what I figured.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Thanks very much for your replies..... and for resisting the urge to call me a dumba**... I appreciate how nice the people on this forum are..... I still can't believe I did that.... (shakes head)... I'm a donkey, what can I say..... I guess I've just been lucky, I've never run into that before... you turn the bleeder, bleeder opens...seems simple enough..... Well, thanks for the replies, I do appreciate it... pretty much what I figured.... Only those who do nothing do not make mistakes. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Remember, in the school of hard knocks, the test comes before the lesson and tuition is rarely cheap, but the lessons are rarely forgotten. alumni in good standing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 Thanks very much for your replies..... and for resisting the urge to call me a dumba**... I appreciate how nice the people on this forum are..... I still can't believe I did that.... (shakes head)... I'm a donkey, what can I say..... I guess I've just been lucky, I've never run into that before... you turn the bleeder, bleeder opens...seems simple enough..... Well, thanks for the replies, I do appreciate it... pretty much what I figured.... Don't be too hard on yourself. Many years ago I did the same thing. I didn't realize how fragile a bleeder screw can be--I learned a lesson that day. From now on any screw or bolt that is tough to loosen is going to get hit with some heat. As long as it's safe and there isn't anything in the way that can be damaged I'll use a propane torch. I also bought a 2000-degree butane mini torch. I've torched a couple of bleeder screws in the past without a problem. Just enough heat to break the bond. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 This is pretty common I have done it a few times. I sweat everytime I need to open one. Consider using one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=37530 Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 don't forget the old favourite of tightening a stubborn fixing a little before forcing it undone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyG Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 don't forget the old favourite of tightening a stubborn fixing a little before forcing it undone. This is the same thing my Dad used to tell me! And this appies throughout the removal of a stubborn bolt, in other words..as you are removing a bolt or nut, and it gets tighter, ALWAYS reverse your direction for a few turns, and it will most likely loosen instead of snapping off. The reason this works is that dirt and rust build up in the threads as the two parts are undone. Reversing direction allows the dirt to be expelled from the threads, and produces a little clearance to collect more dirt and rust. A little more penetrating oil at this point also serves to flush dirt and rust from the thread area. Patrick, you could remove and completely disassemble the caliper yourself, but it is a little advanced for the modern mechanic. The caliper could then be drilled and tapped as needed, and you would get a chance to see the exact condition of the caliper bore and piston. There are only 4 parts in a complete working brake caliper, the body, the piston, the "O" ring seal, and the dust boot. Compressed air is the preferred method of forcing the piston out of the caliper, but you only need a little if the piston is not canted or stuck from rust and pitting. Most people opt for a rebuilt caliper. Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caddypete Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Always a good idea to use penatrating fluid,give it a few taps with a hammer,then try alternating tightening and loosening the bolt several times until it breaks loose.If that don't get it to loosen tap the wrench a few times with the hammer, oh yeah use a six point wrench or socket, then go to heat if all else fails Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Posted October 20, 2006 Report Share Posted October 20, 2006 Anytime, I have broken a bolt flush it seems to unscrew easy for some reason, I think because it does not have the same torque anymore. Put wd40 and let soak for days, I have found wd40 much better than liquid wrench and take a small screw driver and try to press down and turn, if not, drill a little hole and use small easy out. Or try to make a slot and screwdriver again . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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