97 deville won't pass NYS emissions STILL

[swyne1]

Purchased from an auction a '97 deville. originally coming from Canada, entering the US in 2000. NY has now new vehicle emission laws for '96 and newer vehicles. This vehicle has failed this new testing since March of '05. When the NYS computer is plugged into the connector under the dash it has 3 monitors saying "NOT READY" O2 SENSOR, HEATED O2 SENSOR AND CATALIST SENSOR. (ALL NOT READY). This car has has numerous drive cycles that were performed. A new computer PCM was also replaced, following more drive cycles. still no luck. The sensors are good I was told. They do show values when plugged into a computer while running. This work was performed at a certified GM dealership. The car has 116k for mileage.

Its in beatiful shape and was cared for. The dealership has said to me they have never seen this before. ANY HELP????? Thankyou PS there are no dash lights on and this car runs great.

[Ranger]

Any DTC's stored? Was the engine good and hot when you took it in?

[BodybyFisher]

If you or someone disconnected the battery before it was inspected the system will not be ready. It has to complete a drive cycle. See this:

Here is a typical drive cycle:

[swyne1]

Any DTC's stored? Was the engine good and hot when you took it in?

The dealership had the vehicle for 2 1/2 weeks. I would hope that they did the testing right. There was several DTC codes. (the ones the vehicle stores once you activate the climate control buttons) right? I can show you those code tomarrow. its funny after the computer in the dash displayed the codes, the final one was (PCM?) with a question mark. as if mabe bad. He had told me to drive this vehicle around for a month. Take it on a trip or something and bring it back to me in a month and I will place it on the computer again to see if those monitors come up again not ready. So thats pretty much were I'm at now.

[BodybyFisher]

Any DTC's stored? Was the engine good and hot when you took it in?

The dealership had the vehicle for 2 1/2 weeks. I would hope that they did the testing right. There was several DTC codes. (the ones the vehicle stores once you activate the climate control buttons) right? I can show you those code tomarrow. its funny after the computer in the dash displayed the codes, the final one was (PCM?) with a question mark. as if mabe bad. He had told me to drive this vehicle around for a month. Take it on a trip or something and bring it back to me in a month and I will place it on the computer again to see if those monitors come up again not ready. So thats pretty much were I'm at now.

PCM? is ok, that comes up at the end, its waiting for a command from you if you wish to monitor or modify data.

The dealer told you to drive it around for a MONTH? The drive cycle is shown above its very simple and and fast, it does not take a MONTH... Post the codes when you get a chance.

[Ranger]

Yeah, PCM? is just asking if you want to enter the PCM mode.

[swyne1]

Any DTC's stored? Was the engine good and hot when you took it in?

The dealership had the vehicle for 2 1/2 weeks. I would hope that they did the testing right. There was several DTC codes. (the ones the vehicle stores once you activate the climate control buttons) right? I can show you those code tomarrow. its funny after the computer in the dash displayed the codes, the final one was (PCM?) with a question mark. as if mabe bad. He had told me to drive this vehicle around for a month. Take it on a trip or something and bring it back to me in a month and I will place it on the computer again to see if those monitors come up again not ready. So thats pretty much were I'm at now.

PCM? is ok, that comes up at the end, its waiting for a command from you if you wish to monitor or modify data.

The dealer told you to drive it around for a MONTH? The drive cycle is shown above its very simple and and fast, it does not take a MONTH... Post the codes when you get a chance.

Yes he had said after they installed the new computer, that they did perform drive cycles.

but same 3 monitors came up (NOT READY). I down loaded a GM drive cycle before going

to the garage and did 3 drive cycles myself. The Carfax said that this car hasn't pass since NYS started this new testing. Carfax shows all the times it tried to get inspected. Rather any of

the past owners went and replaced the computer or not I don't know. All other inspections

prior to this emissions test are just simply Saftey Inspections. following codes prior to going into the garage: B0533,B1552,B1558,B1971,B1983,B2471,B2719 P0603 TCS C1221, C1222, C1255

All say history except for the B7219. Thankyou

[GreenMachine]

Not sure how much money you've put into getting the inspection system up to snuff but NYS offers a 1 year waiver (basically its as if your passed and will give you 1 year to figure out whats wrong, that way you can at leat not worrying about getting a ticket.

From NYS DMV:

Inspection Waiver. A vehicle that is required to have the OBDII inspection can qualify for a waiver if:

* The vehicle fails the OBDII inspection, but passes the safety inspection, the gas cap check, and the visual inspection of the emission control devices, and

* The vehicle receives repairs that are related to the failure of the OBDII inspection and the cost of the repairs is at least $450, and

* The vehicle does not pass the OBDII inspection during a reinspection.

The waiver is valid for one year.

After the reinspection, the inspector enters the repair information that you provide into the NYVIP equipment. The NYVIP equipment then notifies the inspector if the vehicle qualifies for a waiver. If the vehicle qualifies, the inspector can use the NYVIP equipment to print a waiver form. You must sign the waiver form, and the inspector must sign the waiver form. The inspection station keeps the waiver form and other documents related to the waiver. The inspector then issues your inspection sticker, and the sticker is valid for one year.

To qualify for a waiver:

* You must have the inspection report from the original NYVIP inspection station.

* The inspection report must show that your vehicle failed the original OBDII test, but that your vehicle passed the safety inspection, the gas cap check, and the visual inspection of the emission control devices.

* The emissions control system of your vehicle must be intact. The system must not show any evidence of tampering.

* You must have work orders and receipts that prove that repairs related to the vehicle emissions system were completed at a NYS-licensed repair shop. The work orders and the receipts must prove that the cost of the repairs, parts and labor, was at least $450. If you complete the repairs yourself, the calculation of the cost of the repairs includes only the cost of the parts that were used and does not include any amount for your labor.

I figured since you said that its working to GM specs that it would pass a visual inspection and is intact. The worst part about this waiver is that $450 "catch", but I'd imagine in PCM parts, and labor you may have reached or are near reaching that mark. I'd contact the DMV and since it does check out with GM equipment as all to spec its emmisions are ok, they might be able to find a crack to slip this car threw so to speak.

this link here: http://www.nyvip.us/interior/readiness.htm is a good read

[BodybyFisher]

EGreen, thanks for that info, being on Long Island, that is good for me to know. I am getting the P0717 code and have delayed getting my car inspected because of it.... (and I am expired) Thanks

[steve6]

What levels is the car coming back with(NOx, CO, and HC)? and what levels are you allowed to go upto? Which part is it failing, or all of them?

[BodybyFisher]

What levels is the car coming back with(NOx, CO, and HC)? and what levels are you allowed to go upto? Which part is it failing, or all of them?

He is not failing for those reasons Steve, his computer is not giving a READY indication as if it has not gone through a drive cycle or as if the battery was disconnected.

I have been sitting here thinking about this. If the battery is disconnected it will clear the PCM and you will need to go through a DRIVE CYCLE, right?

Well has anyone considered that you are getting either intermittent POWER or a bad ground? I wonder if a bad ignition switch can cause this. I believe you are getting an intermittent instantaneous fast power loss to the PCM that is not readily noticeable.

Could your battery cables be dirty at either end? Could the PCM power feed be intermittent? All it might take is an intermittent loss of power or bad ground to 'reboot' you PCM..and put it into a NOT READY MODE....

Do you have any driveability issues, stumbles, etc?

I would monitor the PCM power integrity for drops.. The hint is this code in history >>

P0603 - Control Module Long Term Memory Reset

Ill bet this code is always there! Notice if the check engine light flashes on startup..

START), 2) IGN 0 (ENG) (Hot in OFF and RUN) and 3) PCM (BAT) (Hot in RUN, Bulb Test and START).

I think your problem is emanating from #2 above, fuse IGN 0 (ENG) that is HOT IN OFF and RUN! If you lose power to that feed possibly on start up due to corrosion you will create the problem you are having. Pull Fuse 0 (ENG) and see if the prongs are corroded (white, green or burned). You may need to get a look at the contacts in the Fuse/Relay Center..

Check your Fuse/Relay Center for corrosion especially #2 IGN 0 (ENG) (Hot in OFF and RUN) Also check your PCM connections. Also check for a bad intermittent fuse (not likely however)

However, we have had a few members have corrosion in that fuse/relay center so I would start there. Maybe someone else can comment on this idea, but electrical contact cleaner might solve your problem directed into that fuse location.... DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST.. DO NOT USE EMORY CLOTH OR SAND PAPER to clean contacts you will shorten their life.. Warren recently posted something in this regard, Warren?

Hope this helps, Mike

[BodybyFisher]

Here is the P0603 PCM Memory Reset schematic

[steve6]

What levels is the car coming back with(NOx, CO, and HC)? and what levels are you allowed to go upto? Which part is it failing, or all of them?

He is not failing for those reasons Steve, his computer is not giving a READY indication as if it has not gone through a drive cycle or as if the battery was disconnected.

Thats lame, it should be based on the actual tail pipe emissions. Because if these devices are working properly he should pass with no problems.

[BodybyFisher]

Yes but the State Inspection systems are looking for OBDII faults, ie P codes... If you have a Powertrain code, you will fail. The OBD system must run through a full cycle to be 'ready'. If not all on board tests are NOT done... and the STATE INSPECTION system does not get accurate up to date info on the engine systems... for emissions purposes...

The whole point of the drive cycle is for the on board OBD diagnostics to run through all tests of O2 sensors, fuel trim, EGR, etc.. Disconnect the battery and it must start over...

[swyne1]

What levels is the car coming back with(NOx, CO, and HC)? and what levels are you allowed to go upto? Which part is it failing, or all of them?

WITH OUT HAVING THE COMPUTER HOOKED UP TO THE CAR NOW. I CAN REMEMBER SEEING THE VALUES CHANGE AND THE GENTLEMEN POINTED IT OUT. HE SAID YOUR MONITORS ARE WORKING, THE COMPUTER IS JUST NOT STORING THE INFO WHEN THE CAR IS SHUT OFF. THEN TO INSPECT OBVIOUSLY THE KEY IS IN THE ON POSITION AND THOSE MONITORS JUST SIMPLY SAY "NOT READY"

THERE WAS A BATTERY INSTALLED JUST BEFORE I WENT TO THE INSPECTION STATION HOWEVER I PLACED 3 DRIVE CYCLES AND ALSO ACCUMULATED ROUGHLY 160 MILES OF DRIVING BEFORE I DECIDED TO TAKE IT TO GM TO HAVE THEM LOOK AT IT THEY HAD IT JUST OVER 2 WEEKS AND THEN CALLED ME AND WE WENT THE WAIVER DEAL FOR THE YEAR. THE BILL WAS $463. I PICKED UP THE CAR THE NEXT DAY AND HE TOLD ME TO JUST DRIVE IT AND BRING IT BACK IN A MONTH. HE SAID HE PERFORMED A COUPLE OF DRIVE CYCLES JUST AFTER INSTALLATION BUT STILL COMING BACK "NOT READY" I WOULD LIKE TO JUST MAKE IT RIGHT IN MY OWN MIND AS WHY. THANKYOU VERY MUCH RESPONDING.

[swyne1]

What levels is the car coming back with(NOx, CO, and HC)? and what levels are you allowed to go upto? Which part is it failing, or all of them?

He is not failing for those reasons Steve, his computer is not giving a READY indication as if it has not gone through a drive cycle or as if the battery was disconnected.

I have been sitting here thinking about this. If the battery is disconnected it will clear the PCM and you will need to go through a DRIVE CYCLE, right?

Well has anyone considered that you are getting either intermittent POWER or a bad ground? I wonder if a bad ignition switch can cause this. I believe you are getting an intermittent instantaneous fast power loss to the PCM that is not readily noticeable.

Could your battery cables be dirty at either end? Could the PCM power feed be intermittent? All it might take is an intermittent loss of power or bad ground to 'reboot' you PCM..and put it into a NOT READY MODE....

Do you have any driveability issues, stumbles, etc?

I would monitor the PCM power integrity for drops.. The hint is this code in history >>

P0603 - Control Module Long Term Memory Reset

Ill bet this code is always there! Notice if the check engine light flashes on startup..

START), 2) IGN 0 (ENG) (Hot in OFF and RUN) and 3) PCM (BAT) (Hot in RUN, Bulb Test and START).

I think your problem is emanating from #2 above, fuse IGN 0 (ENG) that is HOT IN OFF and RUN! If you lose power to that feed possibly on start up due to corrosion you will create the problem you are having. Pull Fuse 0 (ENG) and see if the prongs are corroded (white, green or burned). You may need to get a look at the contacts in the Fuse/Relay Center..

Check your Fuse/Relay Center for corrosion especially #2 IGN 0 (ENG) (Hot in OFF and RUN) Also check your PCM connections. Also check for a bad intermittent fuse (not likely however)

However, we have had a few members have corrosion in that fuse/relay center so I would start there. Maybe someone else can comment on this idea, but electrical contact cleaner might solve your problem directed into that fuse location.... DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST.. DO NOT USE EMORY CLOTH OR SAND PAPER to clean contacts you will shorten their life.. Warren recently posted something in this regard, Warren?

Hope this helps, Mike

I WILL CHECK ALL OF THIS THIS WEEKEND. IT MAKES PERFECT SENSE. I WILL LET YOU. THANKYOU

[GreenMachine]

What levels is the car coming back with(NOx, CO, and HC)? and what levels are you allowed to go upto? Which part is it failing, or all of them?

WITH OUT HAVING THE COMPUTER HOOKED UP TO THE CAR NOW. I CAN REMEMBER SEEING THE VALUES CHANGE AND THE GENTLEMEN POINTED IT OUT. HE SAID YOUR MONITORS ARE WORKING, THE COMPUTER IS JUST NOT STORING THE INFO WHEN THE CAR IS SHUT OFF. THEN TO INSPECT OBVIOUSLY THE KEY IS IN THE ON POSITION AND THOSE MONITORS JUST SIMPLY SAY "NOT READY"

THERE WAS A BATTERY INSTALLED JUST BEFORE I WENT TO THE INSPECTION STATION HOWEVER I PLACED 3 DRIVE CYCLES AND ALSO ACCUMULATED ROUGHLY 160 MILES OF DRIVING BEFORE I DECIDED TO TAKE IT TO GM TO HAVE THEM LOOK AT IT THEY HAD IT JUST OVER 2 WEEKS AND THEN CALLED ME AND WE WENT THE WAIVER DEAL FOR THE YEAR. THE BILL WAS $463. I PICKED UP THE CAR THE NEXT DAY AND HE TOLD ME TO JUST DRIVE IT AND BRING IT BACK IN A MONTH. HE SAID HE PERFORMED A COUPLE OF DRIVE CYCLES JUST AFTER INSTALLATION BUT STILL COMING BACK "NOT READY" I WOULD LIKE TO JUST MAKE IT RIGHT IN MY OWN MIND AS WHY. THANKYOU VERY MUCH RESPONDING.

Is possible to keep the car running and then hook it up to the machine? it might just clear out when the ignition is turned off. I'm banking on what the above posts say, something to do with indeed a bad connection somewhere that causes the PCM to lose power intermitantly (the hardest problems to figure out are intermittant ones). If the memory reset codes is always in there I would point the tech in that direction and his FSM will have a great flow chart for him to follow

[swyne1]

What levels is the car coming back with(NOx, CO, and HC)? and what levels are you allowed to go upto? Which part is it failing, or all of them?

He is not failing for those reasons Steve, his computer is not giving a READY indication as if it has not gone through a drive cycle or as if the battery was disconnected.

I have been sitting here thinking about this. If the battery is disconnected it will clear the PCM and you will need to go through a DRIVE CYCLE, right?

Well has anyone considered that you are getting either intermittent POWER or a bad ground? I wonder if a bad ignition switch can cause this. I believe you are getting an intermittent instantaneous fast power loss to the PCM that is not readily noticeable.

Could your battery cables be dirty at either end? Could the PCM power feed be intermittent? All it might take is an intermittent loss of power or bad ground to 'reboot' you PCM..and put it into a NOT READY MODE....

Do you have any driveability issues, stumbles, etc?

I would monitor the PCM power integrity for drops.. The hint is this code in history >>

P0603 - Control Module Long Term Memory Reset

Ill bet this code is always there! Notice if the check engine light flashes on startup..

START), 2) IGN 0 (ENG) (Hot in OFF and RUN) and 3) PCM (BAT) (Hot in RUN, Bulb Test and START).

I think your problem is emanating from #2 above, fuse IGN 0 (ENG) that is HOT IN OFF and RUN! If you lose power to that feed possibly on start up due to corrosion you will create the problem you are having. Pull Fuse 0 (ENG) and see if the prongs are corroded (white, green or burned). You may need to get a look at the contacts in the Fuse/Relay Center..

Check your Fuse/Relay Center for corrosion especially #2 IGN 0 (ENG) (Hot in OFF and RUN) Also check your PCM connections. Also check for a bad intermittent fuse (not likely however)

However, we have had a few members have corrosion in that fuse/relay center so I would start there. Maybe someone else can comment on this idea, but electrical contact cleaner might solve your problem directed into that fuse location.... DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST.. DO NOT USE EMORY CLOTH OR SAND PAPER to clean contacts you will shorten their life.. Warren recently posted something in this regard, Warren?

Hope this helps, Mike

MIKE,

I went ahead with a friend of mine to tackle what you suggested. We did find some nasty-ness

on the fuse(pcm/ign) and the (pcm/bat). We replaced the fuses after cleaning the fuse block. The fuse box did contain basicly dirt and what looks to be old electrodiode grease that attracted dirt with a very slight bit of corrosin (green). After doing that we went to the (ign 1 relay). Got it apart and saw that 1 out of the 5 pins were very corroded. We cleaned each one and then cleaned were it plugged in. We also cleaned the (oxy sen 1 and 2). Once everything was cleaned the battery was hooked back up and I then cleared the the codes. It was late so I really didn't drive far. approx 20 miles. during that 20 miles we stop the car several times and shut it off. started it back up and continued on. Once back at the house we checked the computer once more and found no codes looking for the (P0603). No codes were found. This morning I tried to complete one drive cycle but do to traffic it wasn't exactly perfect. I came back home and parked it till tomarrow. I had a bunch of things to do today. I'll keep you posted. I also checked the monitor status after the 20 mile deal but wasn't anticipating anything. (just checking) HA! Thankyou for your help. Swyne

[BodybyFisher]

Good JOB man! Keep me posted, you have confirmed my thinking! Thanks

[swyne1]

I'VE POSTED BERFORE AND I'M VERY APRECIATIVE OF ALL THE HELP THAT I'VE RECIEVED SO FAR.

WITH THE NEW COMPUTER IN PLACE AND SEVERAL DRIVE CYCLES AND NORMAL DRIVING AND

WITH ALMOST 300 MILES OF DRIVING CLOCKED ON THE ODOMETER. I STILL HAVE THOSE 3 MONITORS "NOT READY" (02 SENSOR, HEATED O2 SENSOR, AND CATALYST). THE ONLY 2 CODES PRESENT ON THE CAR IS PZM BO533(HISTORY) AND B2719 (CURRENT) THATS IT. NO POWER INTERUPTIONS AND AGAIN NO DASH LIGHTS. THE CAR RUNS BEAUTIFUL. I DID GET THE WAIVER FROM NY FOR THE ONE YEAR SO I COULD GET THE VEHICLE ON THE ROAD WITH THE $463 DOLLARS FOR THE NEW COMPUTER INSTALLED AND TESTED. BUT I'M PUZZELED. HAS ANYBODY SEEN THIS BEFORE? THANKS GUYS LOOKING FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YA.

[Logan]

WAIT!!!! STOP!!!

Is this car a Canda car brought INTO the US?

The PCM program is different. It cannot pass US emissions. The way the program is setup...it cant pass the US emissions ready staus..

There is...somewhere...a GM TSB/ bullitin related to this. There may be a exempt procedure issue.

I did not read the posts. But can you verify it is a Canada car?

Thank you.

[swyne1]

WAIT!!!! STOP!!!

Is this car a Canda car brought INTO the US?

The PCM program is different. It cannot pass US emissions. The way the program is setup...it cant pass the US emissions ready staus..

There is...somewhere...a GM TSB/ bullitin related to this. There may be a exempt procedure issue.

I did not read the posts. But can you verify it is a Canada car?

Thank you.

ACCORDING TO CARFAX IT SHOWS WHEN THE VEHICLE ENTERED THE US. IT HAS SOME CANADIAN (FRENCH) GLASS DECALS RIGHT NEXT TO THE ENGLISH ONES. BESIDES THE CARFAX REPORT HAS IT BEING PURCHASED NEW FOR A LEASING COMPANY VEHICLE. THEN SHOWS IT HAD BEEN SOLD AND BROUGHT THROUGH CUSTOMS. NOW I HAD TOLD THE GM GARAGE THIS AND THEY JUST ASSUMED IT WAS THE COMPUTER.

[Logan]

WAIT!!!! STOP!!!

Is this car a Canda car brought INTO the US?

The PCM program is different. It cannot pass US emissions. The way the program is setup...it cant pass the US emissions ready staus..

There is...somewhere...a GM TSB/ bullitin related to this. There may be a exempt procedure issue.

I did not read the posts. But can you verify it is a Canada car?

Thank you.

ACCORDING TO CARFAX IT SHOWS WHEN THE VEHICLE ENTERED THE US. IT HAS SOME CANADIAN (FRENCH) GLASS DECALS RIGHT NEXT TO THE ENGLISH ONES. BESIDES THE CARFAX REPORT HAS IT BEING PURCHASED NEW FOR A LEASING COMPANY VEHICLE. THEN SHOWS IT HAD BEEN SOLD AND BROUGHT THROUGH CUSTOMS. NOW I HAD TOLD THE GM GARAGE THIS AND THEY JUST ASSUMED IT WAS THE COMPUTER.

Here is the bulletin...looks like the PCM needs to get reprogrammed for US emissions. In addition it looks like GM will do it for free...

Important: "GM of Canada" dealers are not authorized to utilize this service bulletin.

This service information bulletin can be used to address customer concerns regarding state OBD II emission inspection and maintenance testing. 1996 and 1997 GM vehicles that were originally designed and built for sale in Canada, and now reside in the U.S., may require U.S. Federal calibrations and/or components to meet U.S. Federal OBD II requirements. Customers may be referred to GM dealers with concerns about passing their state OBD II emission inspection and maintenance test for this reason. This bulletin addresses the procedures necessary to retrofit a Canadian designed vehicle to meet U.S. Federal OBD II requirements.

Due to concerns with GM Canadian designed vehicle compatibility with the various state OBD II inspection and maintenance programs, GM has established a U.S. Federal On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) II retrofit program to retrofit eligible 1996 and 1997 GM Canadian vehicles (less than 8,500 lbs GVWR). These vehicles, once retrofitted, will meet U.S. Federal OBD II requirements. These vehicles can be identified by a Canadian underhood emission label and/or a Z49 Regular Production Option (RPO) code found on the Service Parts Identification (SPID) label. GM Dealers may also identify these vehicles by using the GM Vehicle Inquiry System (GMVIS).

Eligible GM Canadian vehicles are classified into three categories with regards to the requirements necessary to properly retrofit these vehicles.

Category 1

All 1996 and 1997 GM cars and light duty trucks (less than 8,500 lbs GVWR).

Require a U.S. Federal OBD II engine calibration ONLY, except for the following vehicles:

• Chevrolet Cavalier/Pontiac Sunfire (J), Pontiac Grand Am/Oldsmobile Achieva/Buick Skylark/Chevrolet Malibu (N), Chevrolet Corsica/Chevrolet Beretta (L) equipped with 2.2L or 2.4L engines.

• Chevrolet/Geo Tracker

• Chevrolet/Geo Metro

• Cadillac Catera

Category 2

1996 and 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier/Pontiac Sunfire (J), Pontiac Grand Am/Oldsmobile Achieva/Buick Skylark/Chevrolet Malibu (N), Chevrolet Corsica/Chevrolet Beretta (L) equipped with 2.2L or 2.4L engines.

• Require the installation of a rear oxygen sensor. Note: this may require the installation of a catalytic converter and/or exhaust components manufactured with a rear oxygen sensor boss to facilitate sensor installation.

• Require a U.S. Federal OBD II engine calibration.

Category 3

1996 and 1997 Chevrolet/Geo Tracker, Chevrolet/Geo Metro and Cadillac Catera -- requires a U.S. Federal engine control module.

Reprogramming Information

For vehicles that require programming, dealers are instructed to contact the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at 1-800-828-6860 to verify a vehicle's eligibility and to receive reprogramming information. A new Vehicle Configuration Index (VCI) will be created and is required to properly retrofit these vehicles with U.S. Federal OBD II calibrations.

Parts and Installation Information

For those vehicles that require parts, dealers are advised to use the 1996/1997 U.S. equivalent components available through normal channels and refer to the appropriate Service Manual for installation procedures, oxygen sensor lead routing and connector locations.

Dealer Costs

For GM vehicles that require a new calibration, this OBD retrofit will cost GM dealers $200 U.S. dollars for the creation of the VCI. These vehicles can then be re-calibrated to meet U.S. Federal OBD II requirements once a GM dealer has gained access to the modified vehicle configuration records.

Customer Costs

Customers requesting this Federal OBD II retrofit should be made aware that the cost of the retrofit will vary depending on the category of the vehicle and the GM dealers' pricing policies.

Cost elements for retrofits may include the following:

Category 1

• $200 VCI creation fee

• Vehicle reprogramming

• Inspection and maintenance readiness flag setting

Category 2

• $200 VCI creation fee

• Vehicle reprogramming

• Rear oxygen sensor and installation

• Catalytic converter and/or exhaust components and installation

• Inspection and maintenance readiness flag setting

Category 3

• Engine control module and installation

• Inspection and maintenance readiness flag setting

Additionally, prior to retrofitting a vehicle, dealers should advise customers that additional OBD system repair costs could become necessary after a retrofit, if additional service is necessary due to illumination of the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) once the U.S. Federal OBD II calibration or engine control module is installed.

Proof of Retrofit

Once a vehicle has been properly retrofitted, dealers should complete the form below and provide a copy to the customer as evidence of a vehicle conversion. Dealers should also state on the repair order that the "vehicle has been retrofitted to meet U.S. Federal OBD II requirements."

[Bruce Nunnally]

Nice catch Dave!

Reads like the dealer may choose to charge the customer $200-$400 for the service also, $200 for the VCI and an hour of diagnostics. But this sounds like the right solution for the problem.

[nigel]

Swyne posted that he had took his car to a 'certified GM dealership' and they had it for 2 1/2 weeks.

in the light of the TSB it would appear that the dealer has charged him $463 for unrequired work.

time for a serious word with someone.

i reckon they should update your car, carry out any extra work that may become apparent after the upgrade (as per the TSB), get you a state inspection pass and throw in a basic service all for free.

you've had quite a few weeks of unneccessary worry.

if they care about customer service they'll be happy to oblige