OldCadTech

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About OldCadTech

  • Rank
    CaddyInfo Reader

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    1998 Seville STS - 2002 Seville STS
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Washington State

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  1. I think you are spot on. Hard to tell, and I'm not familiar with the tool either but it looks like "Cylinder A" was tapered a lot more than "Cylinder B"... If you can post a pic of the tool and model number or a reference to their website I'll see if I can figure out the readings.
  2. It will either be on #1 cylinder or it will be on #6 with the timing marks aligned see above response. You have a 50 - 50 chance to get it right.
  3. To clarify, you will need to have the rotor pointing CClockwise or to the left of the #1 cyl position cuz when it drops it will turn Clockwise as it drops into place.
  4. One other thing b4 you do that is to make sure they installed the gear correctly to the distributor shaft. The "dot" on the gear must be aligned with the rotor "pointer"
  5. Yes, use a long flat edge screwdriver and turn the oil pump drive shaft to match, if it won't drop in, lift the dist and turn the oil pump shaft a little at a time until it does drop in.
  6. Yes, that is the correct procedure. With the timing marks aligned you will be on cyl #1 or cyl #6. if it starts you're good, if it doesn't start lift the dist enough to turn the rotor 180 degrees and align it up to #1. You have a 50 - 50 chance to get it right. finding TDC is a pita... If it STILL doesn't start we will have to regroup.
  7. P012 is no distributor reference, with no dist reference the fuel pump will not turn on because the pcm does not "see" the engine cranking. Are you sure the new distributor was "complete" ? Did it have a drive gear on the bottom. was the drift pin installed through the shaft. Did it have the hall effect and the ignition module installed? Very few are truly "complete" and ready to install. Your original P041 was no hall effect switch signal - you have to push down on the dist cap retainers and then turn C-Clockwise to remove. With the old distributor out crab the retainers from the bottom then pull and turn. Check the old and new distributor connector and make sure all the parts are the same and the wiring and the connector pins are good.
  8. There are several things that can cause this, it should have set a code though. Assuming this is your 95 deville, please hold the "OFF" and "WARMER" buttons simultaneously, hold until all the segments on the display panel light up, copy the codes and post them here. How many miles on the vehicle? Any recent work done to the engine or other components?
  9. As Logan and I both stated, you seem to be trying to correct a normal condition. If you can capture a cell phone video and audio post it here. I'm more convinced than ever, you're hitting the rev limiter. Save your money, the fuel pressure regulator does NOT need to be changed. If the FPR was defective it would happen in gear under load, or most likely at cruise speeds.
  10. Yes, I did misunderstand your statement about the DIC showing the 10 degrees. BUT, a backfire is fuel being ignited at the wrong TIME. The 4.9 is a port fuel injected engine so fuel is not pooling in the intake. If you're talking about a lean miss and not an actual backfire, fuel pressure would be more of an issue. If you increase rpm past around 4500 in park or neutral it will hit the rev limiter which may sound like a backfire, especially with the intake assembly off the engine. Is it intermittent or can you make it happen if you want?
  11. @barczy01 Yea, I remember the balancer problem now that you say that. I personally only had one in my stall but I pulled it for a front seal R&R or a front cover reseal and noticed it was bad, so it didn't have anything to do with a timing issue. @dbc2065 I'm still convinced it is timing. I put a 4.1 HT back together and it backfired on accel - no load, the same as yours is. Reset the distributor and timing, worked fine. I don't remember a 92 being timed through the DIC either, not that I would have done it that way anyway. I would highly recommend checking the balancer and see if it has moved. First though, for giggles, I would connect a vacuum gauge and set timing for highest vacuum and see what happens.
  12. @Bruce Nunnally Is there two of these post? I replied on one.......
  13. Poor engine timing is almost always the cause of intake backfires, but can also be responsible for exhaust backfires. Backfire in the exhaust can also be caused by a rich condition but this will usually set a code. Does it backfire through the exhaust or the intake? When does it backfire, accel no load or accel under load, at idle or on decel? Was the computer in set timing mode when you checked the ignition timing at 10 degrees? With the engine off, align your timing marks at TDC #1 cylinder ( be sure you're not aligning on #6 ), raise the distributor cap and the rotor should be pointing directly at the #1 cylinder terminal on the dist cap, not just close, but dead on. If it is not, mark the distributor directly under the #1 cylinder so you have a reference point, raise the distributor and move the rotor one tooth in the direction you need until it lines up directly. When the static timing is set, reconnect the dist cap and wires, put the ECM in set timing mode and start the engine. You can NOT put it in set timing mode with the engine running. Set the timing at 10 deg, turn engine off then remove the jumper and restart. Note: Firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 A lot of people think that because the oil pump drive is slotted you can't get the timing to move one tooth. Use a long flat edge screwdriver and dial it either way to align the slot. Notice: When you are turning the crankshaft to align the timing marks, make sure you are on the drive side of the timing chain.