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About winterset

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    CaddyInfo Participant
  • Birthday 07/23/1974

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  • Car Model and Year
    96 DeVille

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  1. A few years ago, we had a member here diagnose the drain to a bad battery cable. A tiny pin hole in the shielding caused the copper wire to corrode, turn green, and cause battery drain. Not sure how. My suggestion is to check both the + and -. Cables for damage.
  2. Try opening up the hood at night, and look under the hood for any flashes. I agree that this might all be solved with new plugs and wires. Did the problem go away when it was dry out, then it rained, and the problem came back?
  3. I purchased a new fob with the remote start button for $23 on eBay. Unlike the ones that came with the new car, this one is painted black aluminum, and not plastic. I followed the procedure of turning the emergency door key 5 times to bring up the key programming menu to add fob 3. Although the fob now works to open doors, and start the car, the remote start button does not function. At least I have a replacement fob.
  4. I don't think mine leaks, but it either seeps or consumes the ~quart every 1000mi. I drive it very little, and it has been parked mostly inside a garage bay since 2004. The garage floor is still pretty clean under there and I am glad because it was a new house. I think whatever does leak ends up in the alternator though. Although I was able to charge up my AC recently, replacing the seal is purposly being put off till I feel better. I figure adding a fresh quart or three between oil changes has its benefits. I drive about 2000 miles a year except when I took the fl trip, I drove 3000 or 4000 miles that year. I might try a bottle of snake oil next topping off. I would never think of having the engine torn apart to fix my mild issue, as I believe an oil supplement will work. The cam seal will have to wait for me though, but maybe the snake oil will help there a little.
  5. I get 1000 miles per quart. I am not sure if it is mostly leaking or burning out. I perform only mild WOT's due to engine age. I might have a leak at the cam shaft bearing? Behind the harmonic balance?. I believe it was mentioned that it is also a common leak point. in either case, in NOV 2015 with about 110k, I drove nonstop from NY to Miami FL without any issue. I must admit that I do a slight pressure wash on the underside of the engine every 2 years or so. I do not like the smell or thought of bringing a oily engine into the garage bay.
  6. The 36 degrees is for a short bit on a really hot sunny day with the fan speed on low. Most of the time it is about 42 degrees with the fan on low. With the fan speed on auto, the temp is in the mid lower 40's. I understand that sun sensor on the dash controls how cold to set the air. But it's good to know that it can get that cold if it gets hot outside. I recall hearing that charging up an AC is an art. The investment in this set of low end but good quality tools was well worth the money.
  7. Back in April, I used my vaccum pump and gauges to pull -30 on the system. I let it sit overnight, and no leaks. I then added dye to the system, and as KHE mentioned added 2lbs of 134a. I also used my thermometer probe to monitor the temperature from the vents. So far, the system is working great, and On a hot day, I see temps blowing out of the vents at 36 degrees. I have not connected the gauges up to check the levels of refrigerant, or checked for leaks with my uv flashlight, as I didn't realize how hidden up in the engine the ac compressor was! vaccuum pump and gauges from eBay $79 with free shipping digital ac vent thermometer from eBay $2.00 uv flashlight from eBay $3.00 the dye I got from advanced auto, and it was the can with the ac charge adapter $9.00 the 3 cans of refrigerant cost me ~$18.00 hopefully this charge lasts me 20 years, but with a 20 year old system that was never serviced, I am doubtful. But at least I have the tools to keep it in service.
  8. I am looking at this as an engine concern. Is there coolant in the radiator surge tank (coolant should be about 2 or 3 inches from the top) Does your engine temperature needle ever move? Did this happen suddenly? I am thinking an air pocket from a clogged purge line? One of the symptoms when air is in the coolant is no heat. I just do not understand why the engine temp gauge is at noon from a cold car start. btw, making sure you know to only open the surge tank cap when cold because that is pressurized from the radiator.
  9. From what I understand if you only have the one code, then it is the seals, and this method would not solve anything. but if you have both codes together, then the Solenoid is most likely the cause.
  10. I remember your handle. There are some YouTube videos out there with ways to fix this.
  11. The purple wire is the data line. Check for splices that might be shorting out. Also, any work done recently like a radio, or alarm.
  12. For the oil flicker, if the sensor does not fix it, you can try a bottle of motor honey. Both fixed my flicker that I was plagued with for over 5 years. Once solved, it never came back, and that was about 3 years of having a flicker free car. i wonder if a brake fluid drain and fill from each caliper would help free up the pump?
  13. We were getting a camera error which locked up the hvac, radio, and onstar when present. Then the screen had touch dead spots which prevented some hvac controls, and onstar. Volume touch was not working correctly. Dealer called back, and said he had to order a new unit, and will take 3 days to repair. We have a loaner with Apple car play, and we love it. Wish the 2014 could have been upgraded with that option via software.
  14. Sorry the new wheels did not fix the vibration. Based on the title, I thought you were doing a brake job - and putting shoes on the rear calipers I would have liked to see the photos.
  15. Oops. Yes, I do not have my 2014 ATS4 2.0T in my profile. it is my daughters car. I was looking at getting the remote start for her. I was supposed to get the option for $175 but since I picked up the car Christmas Eve, no one was there to set it up. When I went back a few weeks later to finally have the car prepped, the price changed to $450. I purchased the car new, and I suspect the programming was already done for the option, but I just need the fob with the remote start button. the procedure to program a new fob is very easy, and the car allows up to 4 key fobs per vehicle. I think I am going to purchase a new oem fob for ~$40, and try it out. If it doesn't work I have an extra one. And if I do get the remote start option kit for $206, I will have 5 fobs total. I never had so many for one car.