winterset

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About winterset

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    CaddyInfo Participant
  • Birthday 07/23/1974

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  • Car Model and Year
    96 DeVille

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    Male
  1. The purple wire is the data line. Check for splices that might be shorting out. Also, any work done recently like a radio, or alarm.
  2. For the oil flicker, if the sensor does not fix it, you can try a bottle of motor honey. Both fixed my flicker that I was plagued with for over 5 years. Once solved, it never came back, and that was about 3 years of having a flicker free car. i wonder if a brake fluid drain and fill from each caliper would help free up the pump?
  3. We were getting a camera error which locked up the hvac, radio, and onstar when present. Then the screen had touch dead spots which prevented some hvac controls, and onstar. Volume touch was not working correctly. Dealer called back, and said he had to order a new unit, and will take 3 days to repair. We have a loaner with Apple car play, and we love it. Wish the 2014 could have been upgraded with that option via software.
  4. Sorry the new wheels did not fix the vibration. Based on the title, I thought you were doing a brake job - and putting shoes on the rear calipers I would have liked to see the photos.
  5. Oops. Yes, I do not have my 2014 ATS4 2.0T in my profile. it is my daughters car. I was looking at getting the remote start for her. I was supposed to get the option for $175 but since I picked up the car Christmas Eve, no one was there to set it up. When I went back a few weeks later to finally have the car prepped, the price changed to $450. I purchased the car new, and I suspect the programming was already done for the option, but I just need the fob with the remote start button. the procedure to program a new fob is very easy, and the car allows up to 4 key fobs per vehicle. I think I am going to purchase a new oem fob for ~$40, and try it out. If it doesn't work I have an extra one. And if I do get the remote start option kit for $206, I will have 5 fobs total. I never had so many for one car.
  6. Why did it take you 13 years to reply? Hope the guy finished his fuel pump fix.
  7. I can purchase a pair of new oem fobs with the remote start option for as little as $60 on eBay. The remote start kit which is 2 fobs with the remote start button in a box along with what I understand is a code costs $225 on eBay. My question is what exactly is on that piece of paper that makes the fobs so expensive? Is it the same code for all cars, or is it a paper unique to the fobs in the box? I bought my ats new, and at the time of sale the remote start option was verbally $175 which I agreed to, but when I went back a month later, the salesman who I bought the car from had left, and the price ballooned to $450 i am thinking of buying a single fob on eBay for $30, and programming the car to accept the fob, and see if the remote option was already programmed into my car. Maybe that's why it was supposed to be so cheap at the time of purchase - that is it was already programmed for the option. I understand that the car is delivered with the option turned off, but maybe the dealer already programmed it. My car was shipped from another out of state dealer because of the unique color, and options on the ats4 2.0t
  8. Where on earth are you going to find a car newer than 22 years? Good luck
  9. Also, is any brand of 134a better than the other? I can get the cans for about $5.00 for a 12 oz can. Inter interdynamic, Johnsons, national, and DuPont.
  10. My 1996 deville is about to get its first ac service ever. The last 3 years or so, the system required 1 can of 134a to get running again. I have the tools to vacuum out the system to 0, and all the gauges to perform a refill to specs. Do any of the ac experts on here have any advice or anything else I should do? I take a while to do things, but I like to have lots of time to plan and order any additional parts, etc. btw, what are the specs? How many small cans do I need? Any oil? Should I put dye in just in case I developed a leak? Replace any known parts that break after 20 years of use? (Sensors and not compressors). THANKS?
  11. I have my gold keys on a fob that served as my spares and were unused for years. When I went to use them the other day, I had to squeeze the fob, and press hard to get it to work. I was our getting a battery for it when I decided to open it with a dime and scratch the battery contacts, and bend the battery contacts gently out a little. Then I took the circuit board out, and wiped down the button contacts. After I put it back together, I tried it from a distance, and it worked! Compared to my daily fob, this "new" one is a pleasure. It's amazing how when something goes bad over time you just get used to he degrading quality. Maybe the metals oxidized by sitting on the key holder in th garage?
  12. The last thing you want to do is overheat this engine, or have a steam pocket form near the thermostat or water pump. Yes, do not drive the car, and replace the radiator. If it was the original radiator, you did yourself a favor by damaging it. It was questionable as it was. Check your surge tank for leaks or hairline cracks as well.
  13. I am leaning towards some bound up rings where excessive blowby is entering the crankcase and creating excessive pressure causing oil mist to be blown into the intake and thus getting mostly consumed during combustion. Usually people who overfill their crankcase experience this problem. I know additives are not recommended by the manufacturer, but on a 20 year old car, I feel all bets are on for these solvents. I would start by cleaning the intake and pcv, then adding Marvel Mystery oil to the crankcase when it is low. Keep the crankcase 1/2 qt low. At the next oil change, add Motor honey to the crankcase. I suspect if you check your intake, it'll have a thick tar like substance around the throttle body.
  14. If you recently cleaned your intake, check it out, and see if you have sticky deposits all on the throttle body. While you are in there, clean it out again with intake cleaner, then clean and check your PCV.
  15. On many of these cars, the filler tube (the pipe the gas cap screws on to) rusts out somewhere on it's run to the gas tank. You should crawl under there, follow the filler tube, and look for rusted out sections. Also, check the rubber lines that they are all tight. I don't know if it can be as simple as a faulty gas cap. I never heard a hiss or air when I took my gas cap off on my '96.