MAC Posted June 4, 2006 Report Share Posted June 4, 2006 I just tried to replace the hub assembly on my Eldorado but I was unable to loosen the hub nut, which is torqued to 110lbs. I heated it with propane and sprayed WD40 but it wouldn’t budge. I didn’t heat until it was glowing but I felt it was hot enough. Is the nut loosened by counterclockwise rotation or is it a left handed thread? I would appreciate any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 4, 2006 Report Share Posted June 4, 2006 Use an 18 or 24 inch breaker bar, it will come off, I did my LF last week and I am doing the RF this week, I ordered the RF from gmotors. Visit the gym first and do some bi-cept and tri-cept exercises.... DO IT... Get mad... Mine is torqued to 140 ft lbs. Get mean By the way, on my 91 Seville, I used a 4 foot pipe as leverage to remove the hub nut and IMMEDIATELY broke my favorite 1/2" Craftsman ratchet, LOL (lucky it had that lifetime warranty, ) Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted June 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2006 OK, I'll get mean I didn't want to exert too much torque because I didn't want to snap something. But believe me I was exerting a lot of torque and it still wouldn't budge. But, If you say go for it, I will. I'll soak it all weak with WD40. I’ll also not raise the car until I actually break the bond. This way the hub nut will be completely stationary. I'll take my 1/2 in socket and buy 4ft.of metal pipe at Home Depot. The extra leverage should do it. Hopefully, I won't break my driver. Thanks for the input. By the way, my socket driver is a K-Mart special. I'll let you know if it holds up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 5, 2006 Report Share Posted June 5, 2006 Get some good penetrating oil - PB Blaster, Cyclo Break Away, etc. WD-40 is not a good penetrating oil. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted June 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2006 Get some good penetrating oil - PB Blaster, Cyclo Break Away, etc. WD-40 is not a good penetrating oil. OK, I'll do that. I think I saw one of the products you mentioned in Wal-Mart a while back. I'll buy it tomorrow so I can soak the nut through the week. Maybe by the weekend, it will be a piece of cake--Maybe! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 5, 2006 Report Share Posted June 5, 2006 Mac, think about it, if the shaft doesn't snap on WOTs and pulling hard away from the curb its unlikely that you will be able to muscle a snapped shaft, .... Just make sure you are turning it the right way (you know lefty loosy, righty tighty), buy an 18 inch breaker bar if you don't have one (and extend it with a pipe if you have to). I was actually surprised how easy mine came off my Deville with the breaker bar, but I will be honest, my 91 was a bear... Good Luck, you will get it One tip, put a screw driver into the brake rotor vent, so that it contacts the caliper acting like a stop so that you are not twisting the axle which can be springy....and make removing the nut harder. If you don't understand what I mean, let me know I will post a photo out of my manual Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDK Posted June 5, 2006 Report Share Posted June 5, 2006 BBF, I'm glad you added which direction to turn the nut (which he had wisely asked). I recall a story about a couple gals changing a tire, in which one held the 4-way and the other jumped on it until they broke all the lugs nuts off... Determined nut busters - those gals A guy (read stout) at our facility broke a few 1.125" nuts on purpose because the were galled stainless on stainless (insead of using an air-arc). Until one broke too quick and he fractured his ankle as he fell on the wrench/cheater pipe. Needless to say the investigation quickly determined that he shouldna outa done that. Ah yes... BFH technology. Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted June 5, 2006 Report Share Posted June 5, 2006 Who was it that said "Give me a big enough lever and I'll move the world"? Put a pipe on the breaker bar and you'll be surprised at how easily it will yield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDK Posted June 5, 2006 Report Share Posted June 5, 2006 Ranger, As I recall (although I was not present), Archimedes also asked for a ...place to stand", meaning a fulcrum point for the lever. Granted, this is a technicality, but without it , the lever often becomes a hammer of sorts. Effective none the less and probably more satisfying in some respects - regardless of the outcome. Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted June 5, 2006 Report Share Posted June 5, 2006 To change the tire on my father-in-laws endloader, I used a breaker bar and a 5' pipe. On the first nut I had to stand on the pipe and when it broke loose I fell and twisted my ankle. When I recovered I decided to grab the pipe and put all of my 250 pounds on it, well when it broke loose the shockwave sent pain through my right hand and wrist feeling like it broke it. Sort of like getting stung by a baseball bat only 1000 times worse. On the third one I decided to jump on it again and twisted my other ankle. I managed to get the other 5 off, but I hobbled around wore a wrist brace for 2 weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted June 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 I appreciate the replies. I just bought an 18" breakerbar today about $13 with a lifetime warranty at PepBoys. I figure if I need more leverage I can lengthen it with some pipe. Would anyone happen to know the Torx bit size needed to loosen the three hub bolts? It looks like either T-50 or T-55. One last thing, do I absolutely need a hub puller? The hub is getting louder and I'm concerned that it may not last until this weekend and I certainly don't want it to seize. I'm thinking that tomorrow evening I should take care of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 You are correct its either T50 or T55, I have a whole set so I didnt pay too much attention. The problem with using a puller is that there is nothing to push against. The splined axle shaft will break loose easily, its the rear of the bearing that occasionally is a problem to get out of the knuckle. Mine came off easily, tapping toward me on the flange. If you have a slide hammer and you can attach it to the flange, that would be helpful. There is a thread where someone used a three arm puller and they were pushing against the axle shaft to pull the hub bearing, I would be afraid that I would damage the CV joints doing that. You can make a slide hammer with an all thread and some big old sockets. Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Hall Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 I used one of those $20 Harbor freight 12v electric impact wrenches to remove this nut both on my 88 Eldorado and 93 Allante. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 The hub may slide out of the axle half shaft or it may need to be removed using a puller - you can use a three jaw gear puller - it won't hurt the CV joint. The Kent-Moore tool in the shop manual bolts on to the lug studs and pushed against the axle to remove the hub from the axle. Using a three jaw puller basically works in the same manner. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Oh this is a different situation. In this scenario the axle shaft is stuck in the hub bearing, that has not been a problem for me in the past, in that instance, I can see why a puller is necessary. The other scenario is where the hub bearing won't come out of the knuckle, in that instance, a slide hammer would pull it out of the knuckle easy. I am under the impression that trying to pull the hub bearing out of the knuckle (different than loosening the shaft from the hub bearing) by pushing on the loose axle shaft could damage or at the minumum put too much pressure on the CV joint. I hope I explained my thinking a little better. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 If the hub is stuck to the shaft, try having someone hold the flat end of a ball peen hammer on the shaft face and whack the ball end with a sledge hammer or a large mallet. One hit is all it should take to break it free , then it should slide right off. That has worked for me in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfreezn Posted June 9, 2006 Report Share Posted June 9, 2006 I just tried to replace the hub assembly on my Eldorado but I was unable to loosen the hub nut, which is torqued to 110lbs. I heated it with propane and sprayed WD40 but it wouldn’t budge. I didn’t heat until it was glowing but I felt it was hot enough. Is the nut loosened by counterclockwise rotation or is it a left handed thread? I would appreciate any suggestions? VW axle nuts are torqued to over 250 ftlbs. When I need to get a tough one off I spend $4 for a new nut and slot the old one with a dremel or such. I have even split them with a 1/8 inch drill bit in a cordless drill while at a junkyard. 3 holes close together in a line will do it. You just get it close to cut through and it will pop open with a loud bang. The older you get, the more careful you get about jumping on bars, etc. Regards, Jim in Phoenix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 9, 2006 Report Share Posted June 9, 2006 If the hub is stuck to the shaft, try having someone hold the flat end of a ball peen hammer on the shaft face and whack the ball end with a sledge hammer or a large mallet. One hit is all it should take to break it free , then it should slide right off. That has worked for me in the past. That is what I do, there is a dimple in the center of the axle shaft, I use a brass rod and a heavy hammer and it usually breaks loose. I am doing my RF hub bearing this morning will advise. I needed to buy a torque wrench that has more than a 100 ft. lb. capacity. It is important to properly torque the big nut otherwise you can get moaning if the bearing is not properly tightened and possibly shorten the bearing's life. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted June 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2006 Well, tomorrow is my big day; I hope it goes smoothly. I should have everything I need. Once I replace the left side I think I'll take care of the right as well. I received an e-mail coupon for 10% off car parts from AutoPartsGiant.com. I could save over $16 on the right side hub assembly (ACDelco). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Posted June 10, 2006 Report Share Posted June 10, 2006 I suppose this thread has covered the topic rather well already, however there was a lot of discussion about jumping on extension bars. Cleary some people have already found out why this is a bad idea. Lots of injuries can be attributed to this practice. The unfortunate part is that it is not necessary or even desirable to do it this way. When you push down on an extension bar, you can only apply your body weight to the bar (unless you hold yourself down with something). Conversely, if you lift the bar, you can apply much greater force, with less risk of injury. Just remember to lift with your legs so you don't hurt your back. Don't forget, your legs can easily lift much more than your body weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 10, 2006 Report Share Posted June 10, 2006 I suppose this thread has covered the topic rather well already, however there was a lot of discussion about jumping on extension bars. Cleary some people have already found out why this is a bad idea. Lots of injuries can be attributed to this practice. The unfortunate part is that it is not necessary or even desirable to do it this way. When you push down on an extension bar, you can only apply your body weight to the bar (unless you hold yourself down with something). Conversely, if you lift the bar, you can apply much greater force, with less risk of injury. Just remember to lift with your legs so you don't hurt your back. Don't forget, your legs can easily lift much more than your body weight. Good point Phil, you have much more control with that technique. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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