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Ed Hall

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Everything posted by Ed Hall

  1. 1965 Cadillac with a Cummins turbo diesel. These engines can put out in excess of 1000 hp. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t05rmTKx_-M
  2. You would also need HID housings to take full advantage of the HID bulbs. HID bulbs in non-HID housing just scatter the light everywhere.
  3. You could also have the cylinder heads rebuilt with hardened valve seats. On top of that, you could install thicker head gaskets to lower the compression ratio.
  4. The only other thing I would add to the things mentioned would be a set of exhaust headers. GM must have been counting pennies because these simple mods really wake up these old diesel engines.
  5. A good substitute for the sulfur is 2 cycle oil. I mix 1 oz oil to 1 (gallon) diesel fuel. I also buy my 2 cycle oil at Walmart in the gallon jug.
  6. At least you used a credit card so you can always cancel if it doesn't show up.
  7. Yes, should be pretty close. However, codes would be near the bottom of the list of things I would look for. Drive train parts and sensors are relatively inexpensive for this car. It's the Allante specific stuff that can kill you. Those things are Bosch Brakes, headlights, taillights, glass, window switches, seat switches, sheet metal, bumpers, weatherstripping, etc.
  8. There's probably a reason why it's that cheap so tread carefully. Check the brakes very carefully. If you get any brake messages, prepare to spend $$$'s. Also, check the tail light's very carefully. If the wrong bulbs were used, they will melt. Tail lights for these cars are extremely expensive. The same can be said for head lights. Check the header pull down mechanism very carefully. It's almost impossible to find parts for these. Anyways, good luck. These are very nice cars but can also eat a hole in your wallet.
  9. The seat bottoms were welded to the base. In fact, several of the welds had cracked so I went in and re-welded them. Fortunately, these seats were correct in terms of height for the Suburban. I also bought a set of seats out of an Audi V8 Quattro that will go into the Eldorado. The seats look like new and the car that it came out of was so clean inside that you could eat off of it. Apparently, it must of had some type of mechanical problem that cost more to fix than the car was worth. I could tell that the car would be a nightmare to work on.
  10. Here's a picture of the Cadillac Sixty Special seats installed in my 1990 Suburban. These were ideal seats to install because they are true bucket seats rather than the 60/40 seats commonly found in other Cadillacs of the same vintage. The width of the seats were perfect and there is even a narrower spot on the seat to clear for the Suburban seat belts. I welded a flat bar across the seat rails so I could use the existing holes on the Suburban. The next thing I've got to do is dye the seats black and install the Cadillac seat switch adjusters. I'll probably install those on the door panel just like the Cadillacs. As far as comfort, they are by far the most comfortable seats I have even sat on for a long trip. I felt a lot less fatigue on the 2300 mile return trip with the seats installed and towing a 1972 Chevy behind. Both vehicles were loaded to the hilt. The whole setup would have probably tipped the scales at around 16k lbs. If I delayed anyone on this board who got stuck behind, I apologize. The 1972 truck had old tires so I kept the speed down to under 60 mph. The Suburban handled the load very well and was able to handle Deadman Pass which is known as the top 10 toughest tows in America just fine. The Cummins engine pulled it in overdrive at 50 mph with some throttle to spare. I got just a hair over 20 mpg average while towing. http://www.dieselpow...ca/viewall.html
  11. Whew! I guess I'm fortunate that I bought the stud kit several years ago for hot stand bye. It is sitting on my shelf just in case the head gaskets fail on my 1993 Allante. It's definitely a very good product that helps keep our Cadillacs alive.
  12. Actually, it's not that hard to achieve a nicer paint job than factory. Factory paint jobs tend to have lots of orange peel and the paint is so thin that it doesn't take much time to buff through the paint. This paint job was what I call a quick paint job. I did not bother to pull off all the trim, chrome and bumpers. I just masked it and painted right over the old paint. It looks very good to the untrained eye but an expert could quickly identify that it has been repainted. If you want a top quality paint job, you would strip all the old paint off down to bare metal then prime with epoxy primer. Afterwards, you would do all your body work and prime with 2k primer. You would then block sand it and repeat the process until all the panels are perfectly smooth and straight. Then would come the basecoat paint then finally 6 coats of clear. Afterwards, you would cut and buff the entire car so that the paint is as smooth as glass. So what would it cost for this type of paint job? Between $6k and $20k. There is a lot of labor involved to do this level of work. Believe it or not, the actual painting is the easy part. I've never had issues with airborne dust painting outside. The thing is 80% of the dust is caused by the operator. To minimize dust issues, I do pressure wash the car before I start the project and I also blow off the car very thoroughly before I paint it. The biggest issue painting outside is bugs. I keep a pair of tweezers in my pocket to pull out bugs between each coat. When I painted my Suburban, I must have had to pull out 30 bugs. I also had to repaint the hood because a bee landed on the hood while it was still drying. Here's a photo of the hood right from the gun and the final product. The paint job is much better than factory.
  13. I got these seats installed in my 1990 Suburban and they fit so well that it appears like they were built for the vehicle. However, the mounting holes on the tracks were a bit off so I had to use some ingenuity to get it to all work. Also, these seats are the most comfortable vehicle seats I've ever sat on. I just completed a 2200 mile trip and did not suffer any soreness like I usually do from such a drive. Anyways, I'm pretty sure that had I not bought these seats, they would have been sent to the crushers. Very few people are aware of how rare they are and how much they cost when new. I'll post some pictures once I find my camera.
  14. It's the 2nd repaint. This time, I used much higher quality clear coat so we'll see how long it lasts.
  15. No, I did not add the special solution. The previous paint also did not have the special solution and it held just fine on the bumper.
  16. So far, all is well with the 4.1 to 4.9 conversion. It just needs a little tweaking with the tuning. I'm currently using 350 injectors but it's causes it to run a little bit too rich. So I'm looking for a set of 305 injectors.
  17. It's not worth fixing the old seats when you can buy very nice seats at the junkyard for not much cost. However, it does take some ingenuity to get them to fit. For example, I'll have to modify the brackets so that I can bolt them down to the Suburban floor pan. Another challenge is the controls for this seat. Everything on this seat is electric control like the headrests. There is a switch to move the headrests up and down / forward and backwards.
  18. You are correct for the Sixty Specials from 1989 to 1992. These seats were also offered as an option in 1993 for $3550. Yes I pulled them from a 1990 Sixty Special at the local junkyard. There was nothing wrong with the car except the engine was missing (probably from a bad injector). The car was complete when I pulled the front seats out. The back seats were in fair condition. They are just one seat but a lot fancier than in the Fleetwoods. They are still available and the junkyard wants $40 for them. The seats are in the process of being installed in my 1990 Suburban. The Suburban seats are not bad but these are more comfortable. I'll eventually dye them black. Here's some information: For 1989, Cadillac produced 2,007 Sixty Special sedans and were priced at $34,840. The 1990 Sixty Special was priced at $36,980, and 1,817 were manufactured Cadillac manufactured 879 Sixty Specials for 1991, with a base price of $38,325. For the 1992 model year, only 554 Sixty Special sedans (priced at $39,860) were produced. In 1993, the Fleetwood name went onto a new, rear-wheel-drive vehicle (a replacement for the Cadillac Brougham), so the 1992 front-drive Fleetwood merged with the Sixty Special to become the 1993 Sixty Special (available only as a four-door). This was a step-down in furnishings and standard equipment for Sixty Special, as the car was similarly equipped to the 1992 Fleetwood it had replaced. Velour upholstery was now standard, leather optional. While Sixty Special retained genuine American walnut trim on the doors and dashboard, the custom seating that made the Sixty-Special unique since 1989 was now optional, available as part of a $3,550 "Ultra" package. Only 686 of the 5,286 Sixty Specials (priced at $37,230) built in 1993 were ordered with the "Ultra" interior. A 1993 Sixty Special Coupe was planned, and is referred to in the "Advance Preview Book" (a supplement that Cadillac dealer's received in July 1992 offering information about the upcoming 1993 model year). However, by September 12 of that year, the coupe was dropped from production after just one model was built (in Royal Maroon Metallic). Sixty Special sedan production (by color) is as follows: 3 Mary Kay Pink / 59 Dark Plum / 110 Light Sapphire Blue / 206 Slate-Bronze / 220 Academy Gray / 228 Carmine Red / 250 Platinum / 310 Sapphire Firemist Blue / 326 Taupe / 445 Royal Maroon / 477 Light Beige / 518 Slate Green / 578 Black / 707 Navy Blue / 849 White. While it was based upon the deVille, the Sixty Special included eleven items as standard equipment that were optional on deVille. In addition, there were options for the Sixty Special not available on the deVille, such as a driver's side 2-position memory seat and individual power recliners for the front seats. On the exterior, the most noticeable difference were the rear wheel fender skirts, giving the Sixty Special a more formal look than the deVille. The last one rolled off the assembly line on June 18, 1993
  19. For all you Cadillac enthusiasts, what kind of car did these seats came out of? Yes they came out of Cadillac, but what model and which years?
  20. Diamond White Tri-coat should not be that much different from the pearl blue that I sprayed. The biggest issue is tiger striping. There are different tricks to alleviate the issue such as fogging the panel just after laying down the final coat. I got a slight amount of tiger striping on the hood so I used the fog trick and that took care of that issue. Regarding spray guns, the Harbor Freight gun I listed is pretty much identical to a highly respectable Devilbiss Finishline. If you want a better gun, then you would have to spring for an Iwata or Sata which are over $500. Yes, paint can be expensive however, it's possible this diamond pearl white might be identical. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/kirker-ultra-glo-diamond-pearl-series-acrylic-urethane-enamel-arctic-blast-pearl-ua-81044-p-16262.aspx
  21. I'm using a 3 hp Craftsman air compressor (15 gallon tank) behind a Harbor Freight $50 spray gun (http://www.harborfre...-kit-94572.html). I also have a digital pressure regulator right at the gun so I can monitor and adjust pressure accordingly (http://www.harborfre...ator-68245.html). Having the correct pressure at the spray gun is very important for atomization. I also use a good carbon filter so I don't have to breath any of that stuff. However, the paint and clear coat I use has very little VOC so I get very little smell compared to the old stuff. Also, I used a quarter sheet orbital sander to sand the whole car (http://www.harborfre...nder-95020.html). I sanded with 220 followed by 400. Anyways, as you can see it takes nothing special or expensive to paint a car. It takes mainly patience. Once you start painting your own car, it grows on you and it actually becomes something fun and enjoyable. This is about the 5th car I've done so far. Each time, I get a little better. Thanks
  22. The paint on my 1988 Eldorado was getting a bit ratty so I decided to give it a quick paint job. This time, I painted it a darker shade of blue called Royal Blue Pearl for something slightly different. I painted it outside right where the picture was taken under a tarp canopy to keep the sun off. It was painted as soon as the outside temperature got to around 75 degrees. I painted 2 coats of base coat (Royal Blue Pearl) and 1 thick coat of clear coat. It took about 1 quart of base coat and 1 quart of clear to cover the car. I used Kirker base coat paint and SPI production clear. Total cost for the materials was around $50. Labor was about 3 days. 1 day for the sanding, 1 day for removing and re-installing trim, rubbers, etc. and 1 day for the painting. This time, I used much higher quality clear so I expect it to stay looking nice for a lot longer. Next on the agenda is installing new seats from an Audi. The original seats have seen better days and the Audi seats are of much better quality.
  23. To set things straight, the car that the work was performed on was my parents 1987 Cadillac Sedan DeVille. It had 270k miles on the 4.1 and was running pretty shabby. Other than that, the rest of the car was in good shape. The 1988 Eldorado still runs very good. The Cadillacs built from 1988 and up had much improved 4.5 engines compared to the earlier 4.1. The major improvement was roller cams and much more power. Also, the intake manifold gaskets were much improved which decreased the likelihood of coolant getting into the oil and wiping out crankshaft bearings. The Cadillacs that could benefit a lot from the conversion would be FWD Cadillac's with the transversely mounted 4.1 built from 1985-1987.
  24. Here's how the 4.9 engine sits in the car. It runs very smoothly and has tons more power than the HT4100. So far, I'm very pleased with the results and I'm glad that I saved this very well built car from being sent to the crushers and recycled into a Smart car. With only 80k miles on the heart transplant, it should last for a very long time. Also, my homemade exhaust fits like a glove and sounds like some of the more expensive exhaust systems out there. It was easy to do with the engine out. I don't know if anyone else is interested in saving an old car like this but if someone is, I would be willing to write something up on how to do this. The job was not difficult but there was someone planning and homework that went into this to make the conversion successful.
  25. Got it running. I'm currently working out some of the kinks. The exhaust was a major success. It sounds very good and produces just the right level of noise.
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