lacseville Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 I was in the middle lane, I poked the accelerator to get up to speed to get into my lane. i got in the lane, and my car died suddenly. it didn't stumble around or choke, just died. I coasted to the gas station, and tried to crank it. First time, it didn't turn over, like it was binded, then I tried again, and it spun freely. It doesn't really sound like it has much compression or something. It's getting fuel alright. I took the rotor cap off and it looks pretty charged, but it's been doing fine. I scraped the crap off and put it back on, but it still wouldn't start. But I wouldn't think that would cause it to suddenly die anyhow. Oh geeze, I'm sooo broke what are you guys' opinon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 If it needs a basic tune up -- for that year new cap, rotor, wires, and plugs -- that seems a good start. Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 I'll be happy to do that when I get home. I'm in college and I need to get that car out of the gas station parking lot! Would any of this cause it to suddenly die? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 Did you try checking for codes. http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html http://www.caddyinfo.com/stscodes.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 I wouldn't think a needed tune-up would cause such a sudden shut down. There are likely some stored codes that will give some clues or answers. That is the place to start. Pull them and post them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdwright67 Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 So far, I'm hearing exactly what it was like to lose a timing chain on my old car. Do post your codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 I would check the alternator. I had a similar situation when my alternator went bad. Also, check the alternator for secure connections and the possibility that a wire was severed or burned. Also, check fuses, especially for the ignition system. Before spending money on things you may not need, I suggest doing some troubleshooting. You said you tried again and “it spun freely.” Does this mean you were able to start it or it just cranked a little? If your not able to start it then, again, I would check the alternator, etc. You may have a bad alternator and weak battery? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 Okay here are my codes: E053 History B122 History No Sir then it went to ECM? I could scroll through BCM? IPC? SIR? not related to the problem, but what all do this do. I kinda looked through all of them. Looked liek some nifty stuff! I somehow fumbled around and clear the ECM codes after I took the history one down. stupid me. what kinda stuff can you do with these things anyhow? i remember seeing a cool oil pressure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 B122 = Panel Lamp Dimming Pot Circuit Problem E053 = Distributor Signal Interrupt Check the following link for the E053 Code (which can be found in the old discussion archive by searching for "Distributor Signal Interrupt"): http://caddysearch.netgetgoing.com/mbarchi...?id=IMPORT-2689 Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinW Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 E053 - Distributor signal interrupt Disconnect the distributor 6-way harness, jumper connector terminal 'B' to distributor terminal 'B', then do the same for 'D'. Connect your digital voltmeter positive lead to 'B', negative to 'D', crank engine and observe the meter. 0.0-0.4 volts means the pick-up coil may be at fault. ___________________________________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 i did the screw driver thing and I am not getting any spark. The engine does spin pretty freely IMO. I check out that code, and I'll do what was suggested tomorrow. It was a history code though. Is it likely that i happened again? I'm hoping it's a jumped chain, not bent valves! Chains are pretty expensive, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinW Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 I check out that code, and I'll do what was suggested tomorrow. It was a history code though. E053 will set if engine RPM is greater than 568 rpm followed by no distributor reference pulses for 0.4 seconds, so if it can't start (or be cranked faster than this speed!), it may not be "current". I suggested the timing chain before seeing this DTC had been set. ___________________________________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 lacseville Read the below comments by Bruce regarding E053. I believe he is telling what the problem is. At this point, it looks like your having electrical or connection problems, not burnt valves or a jumped chain. Posted By: bruce Subject: re: EO53 Date: 7/19/2000 3:35:45 AM You can find the codes online by system at web2.airmail.net/nunnally/sts/stscodes.html EO53 Distributor signal interrupt. Set if the PCM does not receive distributor reference pulses from the HEI for more than 0.4 seconds. Since the PFI system requires HEI pulses in order to activate the injectors, most occurrences of Code EO53 will be accompanied by stall. Do not attempt to diagnose code EO53 unless the customer symptom is stumble, stall, miss, or other driveability condition that could be caused by loss of spark, ignition, fuel. Code EO53 can be caused by: 1) loss of battery power to B+ terminal of the distributor 2) a pickup coil that has an intermittent short, open, or poor connection at the module 3) Check PCM connector for improperly seated terminals and mating to the PCM connector. good luck, bruce 92 STS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 Yes, what Mac said. Plus while you are working with the distributor you should replace the cap and rotor. You can get it for less than $20. If you have AAA or some types of insurance, (like USAA) you might be able to have the car towed for free or next to free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 yeah, my typing is bad tonight. that is the stuff i was going to check in the morning. i'll also jumper those things and use a volt meter. I'll also get new plugs, wires, rotor and cap, and reset the timing to 12 (i noticed in the diagnostics that it was at 8 degrees) Does the timing chain happen to be on the same side as the water pump that i've been having so much trouble with??? hmmm, maybe i'll get to kill 2 birds tomorrow, but hopefully not:) thank you guys for your suggestions!! you all are great! (was that just a weak moment? hahahaha!) I'll let you know what happens. I'm sure I'll have more questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinW Posted March 13, 2004 Report Share Posted March 13, 2004 I'll also get new plugs, wires, rotor and cap, and reset the timing to 12 (i noticed in the diagnostics that it was at 8 degrees) The ECM has no way of knowing the actual ignition timing; it just makes adjustments relative to the base or reference setting. When it's placed in Set Timing mode, the ECM does not control the spark timing, allowing you to rotate the distributor and use a timing light to settle on an appropriate base setting. ___________________________________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 15, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2004 i took my car to the cadillac dealership. they've had it for a couple days now. called me today and told me that my timing chain was broken. (no big surprise) now, the surprise: about $600 for parts, $400 labor. that's $1000 and then they don't know if there's anything else wrong! Could there be bent valves or something cool like that? what would you guys do? fix it, or sell it for what it's worth (sell wheels/tires, system, etc, then part the car) and get another car. it's got 125,xxx miles on it. keep in mind that i need my water pump fixed too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted March 15, 2004 Report Share Posted March 15, 2004 Sounds like you need to get a second opinion first on what is wrong with the car. Certainly I would not agree to $1K down then whatever else they find. Next, price having the engine rebuilt. Also look at local ads for what a replacement car would cost. Then you can decide which path to take. I recommend that you just go buy a new CTS Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 15, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2004 wow! i just checked out the local paper and ebay... everything costs more in the spring/summer!! it's cheap in the winter! anyhow, i've heard that rebuilt cadillac motors just aren't as good or sompthin... any truth to this? I'd LOVE to have a new or used CTS! !! I'm still in college tho, and can't afford that little note right now!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted March 15, 2004 Report Share Posted March 15, 2004 When you crank the engine, is the cranking speed consistent or does it vary? Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 15, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2004 it sounds like there is compression in only 2 cylinders or something. I just found out another option. I can get a used 4-9 with 40,000 miles on it for $850, and installed for $2000 (all through Cadillac). I thought this might be better because I have a tapping lifter, and need some water pump work and I'm starting to hear bearing thump. Is there a better price on this used motor somewhere? I just can't justify spending the money for a crate motor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted March 16, 2004 Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 the timing chain for seville 91 is $19.99 at Advance Autoparts. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted March 16, 2004 Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 i would take the car to a regular shop, and have the chain replaced. it might solve all problems. if the guys want 450$ for 20 bucks part they will definitely "find" more problems and try to fix them for a couple more grands. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacseville Posted March 16, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 $20.00?!!! that's great if that's all it needs! cadillac told me that their price included some sprockets and gears and stuff. what, if any other parts do I need to get besides the chain? does the engine actually have to be pulled or dropped to change it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted March 16, 2004 Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 I agree with adallak - get a second opinion. The parts should run in the $200 range. $2850 is pretty steep for a used engine... You need to replace the sprockets when replacing the chain. Replacing the tensioner is also a good idea. Definitely use the OEM head gaskets and intake gaskets if you need to remove the heads to replace bent valves. An independent shop familiar with the 4.9 should be able to repair your existing engine for about $800. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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