Ramps

[JimD]

I chock the rear wheels first.  Then use a floor jack under the engine cradle frame member and jack up the car as far as possible.  I then slide the ramps as far under the tires as possible, lower the jack and then place a piece of 4x4 on top of the jack.  Slide the jack under the cradle member and jack up the car again - this time, the tires will be high enough to slide the ramps fully under the tire.

With all that rigamaroll, I still don't understand why you guys don't just DRIVE up on the ramps. Why screw around with blocking wheels, jacking it up half way, adding a spacer block to the jack, etc etc etc. For 30 bucks, safe yourself the hassle and get the plastic ramps that will last forever and be safer to boot.

Amen. My Rhino Ramps work like a hose and weigh only 7 lbs. each.

[JIMDTS]

Since you are in doubt about the ramps I would not use them. Do you know what weight they are rated for? If not I would pass. I use a heavy floor jack and sometimes jack stands If I'm doing brakes one wheel at a time then I am guilty of using no jack stands just the floor jack but that is bad but I have good floor jack that locks into position on the hydraulic cyl. to keep it up. If I have to get under the car then I will use jack stands. I never used ramps but I imagine if you have a good set they are ok to use. Most of the time I never had a use for ramps. Everyone has their way of doing things..I need to purchase a good set of jack stands I have real old ones probably 50 or more yrs. old real heavy duty but the problem with them is they are huge even on the lowest setting they are much too high for the newer cars I put the dts on them one time and they was too high Most of the jack stands I look at I don't like the top of them they are sort of U shaped which makes it hard to put on certain places under the car..I'll keep looking until I find the ones that I like..Problem is most of these new Jacks,Stands,Ramps etc are crap that is made in china, india or some other off the wall place.Which I don't trust that stuff I may go to a big flea market this weekend to hunt for jack stands as long as they are not bent or badly rusted I will take an old set of made in the USA over that import crap..

Cheers

Jim

[Scotty]

I use ramps for everything except for work where I need to remove the tires. It's so much more convienent and safer (IMHO) to drive up on a ramp vs. jack up and insert jackstands. The car was designed to permanently sit on the wheels and tires...I agree that using jackstands are safe and proven, but why not let it sit on the wheels and tires...it'll be MUCH more stable that way.

Your statement reminded me of my 74 Eldorado Convertible. That it was a convertible is the key here.. When I jacked up that car, the space at the doors would close as the body flexed.. In the reverse, if you put a jack stand under the frame behind the wheel the entire front end drooped... THAT was a scary car to work on and support... But your point about the car being designed to sit on its tires reminded me of that, I could have damaged the frame jacking it up improperly.

[Scotty]

Amen. My Rhino Ramps work like a hose and weigh only 7 lbs. each.

I just bought those, not at walmart but I have them, they are some sort of dense material they are light but still very strong.. I like them a lot and bought them to do my compressor.

Is anyone besides me afraid of driving off them? EVERYTIME I drive up them I sweat! Like MATT said, fear is good...

[Scotty]

Since you are in doubt about the ramps I would not use them. Do you know what weight they are rated for? If not I would pass. I use a heavy floor jack and sometimes jack stands If I'm doing brakes one wheel at a time then I am guilty of using no jack stands just the floor jack but that is bad but I have good floor jack that locks into position on the hydraulic cyl. to keep it up. If I have to get under the car then I will use jack stands. I never used ramps but I imagine if you have a good set they are ok to use. Most of the time I never had a use for ramps. Everyone has their way of doing things..I need to purchase a good set of jack stands I have real old ones probably 50 or more yrs. old real heavy duty but the problem with them is they are huge even on the lowest setting they are much too high for the newer cars I put the dts on them one time and they was too high Most of the jack stands I look at I don't like the top of them they are sort of U shaped which makes it hard to put on certain places under the car..I'll keep looking until I find the ones that I like..Problem is most of these new Jacks,Stands,Ramps etc are crap that is made in china, india or some other off the wall place.Which I don't trust that stuff I may go to a big flea market this weekend to hunt for jack stands as long as they are not bent or badly rusted I will take an old set of made in the USA over that import crap..

Cheers

Jim

Good Point JIM... Adallak for $40 you can buy those RHINO Ramps, I like them, they have a gradual slop, they don't appear to be stressed in the least, I don't remember the capacity but it is high, they are light.... DO IT!

Here are the ones I bought at Auto Zone (not a bad store I might add)

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?U...7EBLZ%7C%7Etrue

Way off topic but Auto Zone carries this line of bushings also that I am installing on my front and rear stabilizer bars

http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/swaybb.html

[JasonA]

In the reverse, if you put a jack stand under the frame behind the wheel the entire front end drooped... THAT was a scary car to work on and support...

That's why I never liked using jack stands. My old '84 Cutlass would do that. Put the jack stand on the strong point of the frame just behind the front wheels. Let the hydraulic jack down and the front end would "sag" and the rear would lift up a little bit. The whole weight of the car was basically pivoting on that jack stand. Safe? Maybe. I never liked them. Ramps are the only thing I'll use because I KNOW the car is safe sitting on the suspension. If I have to use jack stands to do something like take the tires off, I'll do it...but I don't like it...

Those Rhino ramps are wonderful. Since I got those, it's a breeze to get under the car. They are low enough for everything I've never worked on...'cept for my brother's C5. We had to use TWO different pieces of wood to ramp up to the ramps. That car was so low I couldn't even GET the hydraulic jack under it.

[Scotty]

Yes I know the Corvette is hard to get up, my wifes 85 was a PIA, I got a low profile floor jack because of it...

[KHE]

I chock the rear wheels first.  Then use a floor jack under the engine cradle frame member and jack up the car as far as possible.  I then slide the ramps as far under the tires as possible, lower the jack and then place a piece of 4x4 on top of the jack.  Slide the jack under the cradle member and jack up the car again - this time, the tires will be high enough to slide the ramps fully under the tire.

With all that rigamaroll, I still don't understand why you guys don't just DRIVE up on the ramps. Why screw around with blocking wheels, jacking it up half way, adding a spacer block to the jack, etc etc etc. For 30 bucks, safe yourself the hassle and get the plastic ramps that will last forever and be safer to boot.

Jason,

It sounds like more work than it really is.. It doesn't take much time at all to place the car on the ramps as I described. I don't drive up on the ramps because they slide on the concrete unless I use 2x4s to block them against the back foundation wall of the garage. Maybe the plastic ones don't slide. How high are the plastic ramps that you have?

I have had the steel ramps for years - they are not the type in the photo- they are braced and rated for 8000 lbs..

[Scotty]

I have experienced that slide as you brake on the way up...

[67coupedeville]

I've been away from the computer for a few days, wow did I miss out on some good forumming...if that is a word, hmm maybe Caddyinfoing, that's better. Anyways, we have the red metal ramps that are sold in every auto parts store in the world. My friend brought his 72 Chevy 2WD truck over to my place right after a fresh paint job and engine and tranny swap and he had an oil leak coming from under the motor. So I said "I'll grab the ramps." Drives the truck up and the left ramp CRUMPLED! The front part of the ramp folded back and those little "supports" that were on either side twisted like a pop can. We didn't bother looking for the oil leak after that.

My dad took the ramps apart and used really heavy guage angle iron as supports, but after that neither of us really use them now. I have been meaning to buy a set of these ramps that are made in Estevan, Saskatchewan out of used car tires. They are solid rubber, a little heavy but solid. They are $30CDN each ramp but I am going to be buying a set. I have a weird little hang up about using plastic to lift my car and crawl underneath.

We have been using railway ties for blocks around here, just jack the car up, slide a railway tie underneath the frame and lower it back down. If they can support a train, why not a car?

P.S. E-Z Rizer Car Ramps Link

[Ranger]

I don't drive up on the ramps because they slide on the concrete unless I use 2x4s to block them against the back foundation wall of the garage. Maybe the plastic ones don't slide.

I have had the steel ramps for years - they are not the type in the photo- they are braced and rated for 8000 lbs..

Kevin,

I have the same ramps and expirience the same problem but even worse, the air dam hits the ramp before the tires. That has cause me to use them even less. One of these days I have to get a couple lengths of 2X10 and lay them infront of the ramps. That may solve the problem of height.

[adallak]

yes, my Seville cannot get on the ramps without some additions. Looked at the plastic ramps at Wal-Mart, well they look even less convinsing them the metall one Perhaps, I'll end up buying jack stands, though I do not like them much.

[KHE]

I don't drive up on the ramps because they slide on the concrete unless I use 2x4s to block them against the back foundation wall of the garage.  Maybe the plastic ones don't slide.

I have had the steel ramps for years - they are not the type in the photo- they are braced and rated for 8000 lbs..

Kevin,

I have the same ramps and expirience the same problem but even worse, the air dam hits the ramp before the tires. That has cause me to use them even less. One of these days I have to get a couple lengths of 2X10 and lay them infront of the ramps. That may solve the problem of height.

Larry,

The air dam/front fascia are the primary reason I jack up the front of the car and slide the ramps underneath. I can only drive up the ramps with my Fleetwood as it has the traditional chrome bumper and no fascia below the bumper. Years ago, when we bought the Park Ave., it had the lower fascia and that's when I started jacking the front up and sliding the ramps under the tires. I found that method easier and faster than using a 2x4 to block the ramps and then waiting for my wife to come out to the garage to watch/guide me so I didn't overshoot the ramps....

I like ramps for oil changes, trans. fluid changes, etc. as they leave the entire underside clear.

[JasonA]

KHE, the parking pad of the ramps I have (not sure if they're Rhino brand) is only 6.5" above the ground level. No problem for any of the vehicles I work on (save for the Corvette understandably). There's a large 2" bumper molded into the front of the parking pad, so it'd be nearly impossible to drive off them if you're making a reasonable effort to feel for it. The ramps I have also have thick pads on the bottom (reminds me of a square-shaped body bushing), so they don't slide on the garage floor. I used to use the metal ramps and they'd slide all the time. That's why I picked up the plastic ones as soon as I saw them. I've had 'em for years.

Another thing about the plastic ramps...they have "treads" molded into the ramp part so the tires don't slide on them. I've experienced that with the metal ramps before...the tires would slide on the slick metal, especially when they were wet. Plastic ramps are miles ahead of their conventional metal counterparts.

[KHE]

KHE, the parking pad of the ramps I have (not sure if they're Rhino brand) is only 6.5" above the ground level. No problem for any of the vehicles I work on (save for the Corvette understandably). There's a large 2" bumper molded into the front of the parking pad, so it'd be nearly impossible to drive off them if you're making a reasonable effort to feel for it. The ramps I have also have thick pads on the bottom (reminds me of a square-shaped body bushing), so they don't slide on the garage floor. I used to use the metal ramps and they'd slide all the time. That's why I picked up the plastic ones as soon as I saw them. I've had 'em for years.

Another thing about the plastic ramps...they have "treads" molded into the ramp part so the tires don't slide on them. I've experienced that with the metal ramps before...the tires would slide on the slick metal, especially when they were wet. Plastic ramps are miles ahead of their conventional metal counterparts.

I'll have to look into those plastic ramps. The metal ones I have are 9" high and have ribs/extruded holes on the "ramp" part but they still slide. There is a 1" formed stop at the back side.

What I'd like to have is a hoist.....

[JimD]

Until you get a hoist.....

Blitz USA, Inc.

Miami, OK 74354

877-922-5489

model # 11903

[JIMDTS]

My neighbor has those blitz ramps and from time to time I see him trying to drive up on them and they slide forward while he's trying to drive up on the ramps He gets out of his car repositions the ramps and does it again until he makes it up on them.

Me I still like a floor jack and jack stands I like these the best works for me I guess we all have are own methods what ever is safe and works for you..is the wat to go.I like to use 6 ton stands they are a little high for a car but work great on SUV's

Jim

[adallak]

Jack stands are good but their support area is U shape, and my car does not accept U's. Did anybody (Scotty) use starndard jacks on a Seville 1991?

[navion]

Jack stands are good but their support area is U shape, and my car does not accept U's. Did anybody (Scotty) use starndard jacks on a Seville 1991?

Your car does not accept U's?????????

Pray tell, just what do you mean by that? The support area of those stands will work on just about any Caddy that I have ever seen. I used them on my 1988 all the time that I had it. Every oil change, brake job, tire rotation. It accepted the U's just fine. I used them on my 94 for all of that plus when I changed the engine. Granted, you have to use some common sense when you support any car with stands. You also have to have a stable, hard surface for ramps or stands. Concrete is best. Asphalt is not so good, I would use some 1/2" plywood under whatever I was using on asphalt. Dirt or grass, forget it! Compacted gravel, get out the plywood or better yet, find some concrete!

Britt

[adallak]

Jack stands are good but their support area is U shape, and my car does not accept U's. Did anybody (Scotty) use starndard jacks on a Seville 1991?

Your car does not accept U's?????????

Pray tell, just what do you mean by that? The support area of those stands will work on just about any Caddy that I have ever seen. I used them on my 1988 all the time that I had it. Every oil change, brake job, tire rotation. It accepted the U's just fine. I used them on my 94 for all of that plus when I changed the engine. Granted, you have to use some common sense when you support any car with stands. You also have to have a stable, hard surface for ramps or stands. Concrete is best. Asphalt is not so good, I would use some 1/2" plywood under whatever I was using on asphalt. Dirt or grass, forget it! Compacted gravel, get out the plywood or better yet, find some concrete!

Britt

OK. Here is my jack and thereis matching groov on the car. If I position a jack stand with U it will most likely damage the metal sheet or I should move it deeper to the frame.

[JIMDTS]

The jack you posted is a scissors jack good for changing a tire but I would not get under a car with that jack. Floor jacks and jack stands should always be placed on the frame , sub frame or heavy structure such as an engine cradle I always use the frame using sheet metal is not a good jack point although some cars have the cut out on the rocker panel area for changing a tire You should catch the frame if you can it's better to safe than sorry..I guess the scissors jack would work to lift the car but then I would use a jack stand to hold the car but the problem with the scissors jack is you probably won't be able to lift the car high enough to slide the jack stand under the frame.

Good Luck

Jim

[adallak]

The jack you posted is a scissors jack good for changing a tire but I would not get under a car with that jack. Floor jacks and jack stands should always be placed on the frame , sub frame or heavy structure such as an engine cradle I always use the frame using sheet metal is not a good jack point although some cars have the cut out on the rocker panel area for changing a tire You should catch the frame if you can it's better to safe than sorry..I guess the scissors jack would work to lift the car but then I would use a jack stand to hold the car but the problem with the scissors jack is you probably won't be able to lift the car high enough to slide the jack stand under the frame.

Good Luck

Jim

Jim,

I have a floor jack as well, but really did not find a safe point for a stand jack to apply. I'll look closer tomorrow when I get under the car.

[JIMDTS]

Hi adallak

Take a look around you will find a spot to put the jacks

Good Luck

Jim

[navion]

The jack you posted is a scissors jack good for changing a tire but I would not get under a car with that jack. Floor jacks and jack stands should always be placed on the frame , sub frame or heavy structure such as an engine cradle I always use the frame using sheet metal is not a good jack point although some cars have the cut out on the rocker panel area for changing a tire You should catch the frame if you can it's better to safe than sorry..I guess the scissors jack would work to lift the car but then I would use a jack stand to hold the car but the problem with the scissors jack is you probably won't be able to lift the car high enough to slide the jack stand under the frame.

Good Luck

Jim

Jim,

Well said.

I hear of at least one or two incidents a year where someone gets himself killed by working under a car using only the jack that came with the car. A decent floor jack and a pair of decent stands can be had for less than $300.00. Real cheap insurance! Stay away from stands that look like they were made from exhaust pipe, those will kill you also. Your floor jack and stands should look similar to the ones that JIMDTS posted pictures of.

Choosing a place for a jack stand or floor jack is not hard. Just avoid sheetmetal areas, oil pans, exhaust systems, steering linkage, or anything that looks like it is made of aluminum or plastic.

The frame or cradle is best on the FWD Caddies. I will position a floor jack under the center of the cross member and jack the car up to the height that I want. Then I will pick a spot on each side to place the stands. I pick something substantial and adjust the stands as close as possible to minimize the loss of height when I lower the car so the stands take the weight. I will watch the stands as I let the car down to make sure that they are not tipping. All jacking and work should be done on a flat surface. You should chock the wheels after the stands have started taking the load. If you have the wheels chocked & the brakes set it will cause the jack stands to be side loaded as you let them take the weight. Before you remove the jack & while it still has a little weight, I would shake the car to see if it is stable. That way you can avoid a nasty surprise later when you are under the car pulling on a wrench!

If anyone is not comfortable about placement of jacks and jack stands, then they should get someone knowledgeable to show them.

I have been around cars trucks and heavy equipment all of my life, and I sometimes forget that some people may not have any experience in this area. Some people don't know any better because they have never been exposed to these situations.

Adallak, I apologize if I sounded a little short on my previous answer. I forget that I went through a learning process also many years ago. Looking back, I sometimes wonder how I made it this far.

Britt

[adallak]

I would like to thank everybody for sharing their insight on the subject. Safety is not something to overlook. Unfortunately, specs on the boxes does not guaranty anything. Testing and listening carefully to people who "was in businessis" for many years that's the most important part.