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Everything posted by navion

  1. Possibly a power steering pump going bad, or just low on fluid.
  2. My 94 SLS had the same leaking oil problem. I tried cleaning the area and applying a high temp RTV sealant to all of the relevant areas. My advice is to forget about this approach. It will result in minor blood loss from the back of your hands from working in tight places and NO difference in the oil leaks. I later switched the engine oil to Pennzoil High Mileage that comes in copper colored containers. While changing the oil type didn't cure all the leaks, it did seem to decrease the severity. Instead of a large puddle on the garage floor, the puddle was much smaller. As I said, the Pennzoil High Mileage didn't cure it completely, but it did lessen the leak to something that I could live with. The reduction in leakage amount wasn't immediate, but by the second oil change with the High Mileage oil I began to notice that the amount of oil on the garage floor was significantly less. If you read the label propaganda on the High Mileage oil, it says that it has an ingredient that causes seals and gaskets to swell slightly, helping to control leaks. I was very skeptical of that claim, but thought that I would try it. As I said, it didn't completely cure the leakage, but it did bring it down to a level that I could live with. The High Mileage oil is slightly more expensive, but not prohibitive. If I were you, I would give it a try. Good Luck, Britt
  3. Check to see if your car has a vacuum brake booster. If it does, I believe that your car does not have the "hydroboost" unit. If you see hydraulic lines running from the power steering pump to the brake booster, then I believe that you would indeed have the "hydroboost" system.
  4. In my experience, a transmission flush is a bad idea. Especially if there are no issues with the transmission. This particular Cadillac dealer seems to be an exceptional one, passing up an opportunity to perform an unneeded service! Follow KHE's advice and drain & refill the transmission. Then reset the transmission life display on the DIC. NEVER flush a properly operating transmission. It is a device to generate income for repair shops and can cause more problems than it solves.
  5. Mike, I see that you referenced cleaning terminals with emery (emory). Abrasives made from emery are conductive and the dust can cause high tension arcing to ground. I use maroon Scotchbrite for such tasks.
  6. Mike, I would replace the inline fuel filter before I did anything else. If the owner got one tank of contaminated fuel, it could be partially plugged. It does not matter if the filter was changed last year or last month. A partially plugged filter would still allow the pressure to be read, but the restriction may contribute to the lean conditions that you describe. I would do this first as it is relatively cheap and easily changed. I had a similar problem on my '94 SLS Nstar. When I removed the inline filter, I found that it was full of fine sand. Take Care, Britt
  7. As a rule of thumb, the lead cylinder on GM engines is the #1 cylinder. By lead cylinder, I mean that if you look at the "front" of the engine, meaning the end opposite from where the transmission/trans axel bolts on. You will notice that one cylinder head is slightly forward of the other. The forward head side contains cylinders #1, #3, #5, #7. .
  8. I would not change the viscosity that you have been using. The engine in your Cadillac is designed for that weight oil. Remember, once your engine is running and up to temperature, it dosen't know if it is in Florida or in the Finger Lakes! The 5 weight aspect of your oil helps insure lubrication during the critical time following a cold start in any climate. If you were North of the Artic Circle, I would think about a 0-20 weight. I hope that you enjoy Florida. Britt
  9. No one told the North Koreans that the casket is supposed to go INSIDE the hearse!
  10. The very first thing that I would do would be to change the fuel filter. The next thing would be to check the fuel pressure at the engine. It is possible that the fuel pump is failing.
  11. Another CAUTION! If a rim is badly corroded, exceeding the recommended pressure is an invitation to a potential disaster! If you have ever seen one of these rims that has bee broken in an accident, you would be very careful with the inflation pressures. The cross section thickness is not much. 80 or 90 psi may work OK on a good rim, but a corroded rim may blow with the force of a hand-grenade.
  12. One question and a caution. The question: Has anyone had any luck with "SLIME" tire sealant? The caution: Were taught to never use steel wire brushes to clean aluminum. Stainless steel or bronze brushes were OK. The reason is that small particles will transfer from the brush and imbed into the wheel. The imbedded steel particles will rust and cause a corrosion problem of their own. That kind of corrosion will eventually ruin the aluminum part.
  13. OOPS!, I was confusing my present '03 SLS with the '94 SLS! My apologies.
  14. I'm assuming that you just bought this vehicle. The very first thing that I would do is get the battery checked and replace it if it is the LEAST bit questionable. A marginal battery in these vehicles will give the computers all kinds of headaches! The best battery is the Delco, which is original equipment. If unable to find one, my next choice would be to go to Sam's Club and get one of their Energizer batteries. NOTE: As these batteries are located under the rear seat, the battery HAS to be the manifold vented kind. Do not let anyone convince you otherwise. As for the oil leak, the early Northstars were notorious for seeping oil. My 94 Seville SLS had that malady. The proper fix is to have the engine removed and the lower crank case resealed. The cost of this "fix" could easily exceed what you paid for the car. What I did was switch to Pennzoil High Mileage 10w30 oil. While it did not "cure" the leak, it reduced the amount substantially. My SLS went from leaving small puddles to a few drips. I always kept a sheet of cardboard in the garage to catch the drips. My '94 SLS was the most comfortable car that I have ever owned. It was more comfortable than the 2003 SLS that I have now. Good Luck with your new car. If it rides anything like my '94 SLS, you will enjoy it.
  15. I had a 1994 SLS that seemed really strong and got very good mileage. I replaced it with a 2003 SLS. The 2003 is not as strong as the 1994 and the mileage is not quite as good. BUT the 2003 will run on regular while the '94 was much happier with premium fuel. The bottom line is that the 2003 has a better MPD, (miles per dollar) than the '94. Other than not being as strong as the '94, my main complaint is that the 2003 seats aren't nearly as comfortable as the '94's were.
  16. I also vote for changing the oil hot. I do it on everything from aircraft to large diesel engines. And to add another aspect, if possible I will schedule an oil change so I can drain it in the evening and let it drain all night. Then the next day, I will prefill the filter, replace the drain plug and add the correct amount of oil. Just don't forget and have someone drive off with no oil! That would NOT be beneficial.
  17. Congrats!! I changed the engine in my 94 SLS from the top. The main reason that I did it that way was I didn't want to fool with the steering, alignment or the brakes. You are right, it was a BIT*H! But now that I have done it once, I wouldn't hesitate to do it again IF needed. The '94 manual had very specific step by step instructions. I just made a check list & checked the item off as I did them. I only had a couple of minor glitches which were my fault for getting in a hurry.
  18. Texas Jim, On the main Caddy Info page, there is a CTS floating in clouds. Below that there is a light blue bar that shows where you are. In this case it says "CaddyInfo.com Cadillac Forum > General Cadillac Help and Discussion > General Cadillac Forums > G Force Chips" The ads are directly under that light blue bar. The first ad says Ask a Cadillac Mechanic.
  19. "G Force (Farce?) Chips", "Ask a Cadillac Mechanic" and others advertise on this site. Their ads show up under the header bars. I believe that I read about someone complaining about the "Ask a Cadillac Mechanic" because they charged his credit card and never answered his question. Is there anyway that CaddyInfo can vet these advertisers so people won't get ripped off?
  20. The rear calipers are different than the front in that they "screw" back in. There is an inexpensive tool that is available from most auto parts stores that work with most designs of rear calipers. The tool has projections on it that engage with holes or slots in the surface of the rear calipers piston. Using a 3/8 ratchet and the tool, you can easily turn the piston back in to reset it and install your new pads.
  21. I'm curious if anyone has tried one of the "G Force Chips" in their Cadillac? I see that they are advertised on the CaddyInfo site and I am curious. They claim "Up to 60 HP increase. (I suppose a 1/2 HP increase would fall under the "up to" description. They also claim a 4 to 7 MPG increase in fuel mileage. along with 25 to 40% decrease in emissions! I think that the is called for here, but I hope that I am wrong. Even a 2 MPG increase in fuel mileage would be welcome with $4.00/gallon gas! So has anybody tried one out? One can only hope that there is some truth to their claims. But if the claims are true, then these guys should be working for GM!
  22. My first inclination when I hear a car alarm is to put a .44 magnum projectile through the battery of the offending vehicle! Some of them are set so sensitive that a strong breeze will set them off. We had a car left in our parking lot at the airport that was going off every 30 minutes or so. We finally had the local police come out. They unlocked the car with a slim jim and popped the hood. We disconnected the battery. End of problem! When he came back in a couple of weeks, we hooked the battery back up for him. We also suggested what he could do with that alarm, and it wasn't pretty!
  23. I've had an Energizer from Sam's Club for over a year and so far no problems. One hint. The batteries at Sam's all have a round sticker with the manufacture date. Look toward the rear of the rack & see if there are newer batteries that the one up front. I got one that was a month old, while the one up front was 7 months old. I told the gentleman that I would by one IF he got me the newest & he said "No Problem!" I think that a battery that has been sitting for a half a year would be subject to early failure just from sitting.
  24. Whatever you do, DO NOT put the wrong type of battery in your vehicle! It is dangerous and could cause an hydrogen explosion under the rear seat. Due to the under seat location, the battery must be the manifold vented type. At the very least the corrosive out-gassing that is the result of normal recharging will attack the electronics and wiring that is found under the seat.
  25. I believe that the 4100 can be easily replaced by a 4.5 or a 4.9. These engines are much better that the 4100 and are usually available used at a reasonable price.
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