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Mailbag: 1996 Deville FPR R&R, No Start


Cadillac Jim

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in short it wont start and the codes its showing is c0001 p0001 v0001 p0300 p0l07 p0l08 p0325 p0306 can uplease help me thank you

P0001 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit/Open

V0001 [is possibly U0001?]

U0001 Controller Area Network (CAN) Bus Communication (ECM)

P0300 Engine Misfire Detected

P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage

P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage

P0325 PCM Knock Sensor Circuit

P0306 [is possbily P0326?]

P0326 Knock Sensor Circuit Excessive Spark Retard

It looks like the wiring harness to the sensors under the beauty cover is pulled off. The MAP sensor is in the center of the intake manifold toward the rear. The spark sensor is under the intake manifold in the "lifter valley" (where the cam and lifters are in an OHV V8).

I would start by looking for wiring harness damage or things disconnected when your friend pulled off the FPR.

Run the codes again, and this time note which ones are CURRENT.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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no its not his fault al the wires r hooked up far as I know I don't know anything bout caddys but I knew something was wrong with it when I bought it ,that's how I got it so cheap .I only paid 500 for the car and wish I new how to put some pics on here I thought I could fix it pretty quick me an my family only have one car so im trying to hurry ,with very low funds .I have a 02 that was wrecked and I cant get papers on and it runs very good can I swap motors there the same motor and even the vin # on both cars have a y in them .thanks for the fast reply ,and please if you or any body else has any impute feel free to share.......

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no its not his fault al the wires r hooked up far as I know I don't know anything bout caddys but I knew something was wrong with it when I bought it ,that's how I got it so cheap .I only paid 500 for the car and wish I new how to put some pics on here I thought I could fix it pretty quick me an my family only have one car so im trying to hurry ,with very low funds .I have a 02 that was wrecked and I cant get papers on and it runs very good can I swap motors there the same motor and even the vin # on both cars have a y in them .thanks for the fast reply ,and please if you or any body else has any impute feel free to share.......

I answered the motor swap question in your other post - long story short - the '02 engine will not work in the '96.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Run the codes again and mark down which are CURRENT. Then we can tell you what *is* disconnected from what *was* disconnected.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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so i went back and pluged up my scanner and no codes came up and i dont know how to do with the buttons in the car could u send me a play by play on that ? also the alternator is bad and i have to jump it to crank it could this be a problem?i no on some cars if it dont have enough volts it they wont start but the guy that i bought it from said it just started running bad ond day and its had a water pump put on it to but hey says it never ran hot is it possible i have a blown head gasket ?i have all reciets and even the sticker from when it was bought brand new it only has 119xxx miles on it and was owend by an old couple one died and they sold it to the guy i got it from and he is n his 50's so raw hideing is out of the question the car has been well cared for .and how hard is it to change censors that you refired too

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With the key on, simultaneously press and hold the OFF and WARMER buttons on the climate control panel. The codes for all systems will be displayed on the information center. When you see PCM?, use the fan up/down button. Fan up = YES and fan down = NO. The OFF button will back up one step.

When you see PCM? press the fan up to answer "Yes". The system will then display PCM CODES? Press fan up to answer "yes" and only the PCM codes will be displayed. Then CLEAR PCM CODES will be displayed. You can erase them or answer "no". Press AUTO or turn off the key to exit diagnostics.

If you want to check/display other system codes, press OFF to back up to the PCM? prompt and then you can press fan down to scroll to the system you want to display and repeat the above.

Whenever the Northstar engines act up or run hot, it seems that inexperienced mechanics throw a water pump and/or a radiator at it. Why, I have no idea... - the pump either works or it doesn't (leaks out the weep hole).

Before throwing parts at it, I think the first thing to do is to charge the battery and load test it. If it is bad, replace the battery. Then evaluate the charging system. You state the alternator is bad but how do you know this for certain? If the alternator is not charging, there will be a light on and a message on the information center.

Once you get the engine to start and run, you can test the cooling system for hydrocarbons with the kit from Autozone to determine if the headgaskets are bad or OK.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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The OBD codes will also tell you if the alternator is acting up. When you run them, be sure and mark down which ones are CURRENT and which are HISTORY.

Since you have all the receipts, you can evaluate how likely it is that you have head leakage by looking through them for a coolant change or flush. If you can't find one in the last five years, you are more likely to have head leakage than if you *do* find coolant changes in the receipts. But it's simplest to just get the car to start. Once it starts, the "nose test" can tell you - the signs are a smell of coolant in the exhaust, or of exhaust in the surge tank.

In old all-iron engines with brass radiators, the list of things that cause overheating has a different order of highest likelihood. It begins with low coolant, slipping fan belt, bad viscous clutch on the fan, etc. Older water pumps could such air through the packing and the impeller could erode due to cavitation in some cars, so water pump replacement sometimes fixed overheating. Excessive stop-leak over long periods of time and/or rust due to very stale or no antifreeze could cause clogging of the radiator, heater core, and even the bypass.

With modern all-aluminum engines with aluminum radiators that use plastic tanks, the top of the list is a clogged bypass, low coolant, and bad fan motors or relays.

Another problem that began with the use of long-life coolant in 1996 is that dealers and mechanics stopped recommending coolant flushes because coolant is good for 150,000 miles. But long-life coolant also goes acid in about five years, which happens a lot sooner than 150,000 miles. Stale coolant in any engine with aluminum heads, block, intake manifold (in some cars), radiator, water pump, etc.will cause expensive problems. Note that just about *all* cars with engines designed in the last 20 years fall into this category.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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well that is the problem i dont really know what to do to get it started ive charged the battery and wined on it till it ran down .when it was running it smoked white and smelled like raw fuel there might have been a little collant smell but im not sure but it turned from white to blue and when i hit the gas u couldnt see *smurf* then if u let it sit there and idel it whould stop .but when we put that stuff in the collant jug and filled it back up with water started it up lrt it run for bout a half hour i shut it off tried to start it up and no go it hasnt ran sence i just really dont know what to do i no a little bout older motors but i know nothing bout caddys or front wheel drives .... but i do want to thank you for all yaul imput keep it coming ..ill try the dash scan tomorrow after work and let yaul know what codes are there..

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What was added to the coolant surge tank? Does the engine turn over but just not fire up?

Have you tested for spark to make sure the ignition system is working properly?

You have come to the right place - we do know about Cadillacs - both the FWD and the RWD models.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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No I haven't had time to touch it and I don't know what the name of the stuff was but it was something like block seal its fireing cause it tries to start but it just won't smell like it flooded out I think the fpr is stuck open but I'm gonna try and get one this week I'll let u no the out come

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No I haven't had time to touch it and I don't know what the name of the stuff was but it was something like block seal its fireing cause it tries to start but it just won't smell like it flooded out I think the fpr is stuck open but I'm gonna try and get one this week I'll let u no the out come

If the fuel pressure requlator was stuck open, it would not cause the engine to flood - it would not have enough fuel pressure and would not run. I have never heard of a FPR sticking open. The internal diaphram will rupture which is the only failure mode that I have heard of. Before throwing a FPR at it, check the fuel pressure with the key on, engine off. Also, remove the vacuum hose and there is fuel in the hose or leaking out of the FPR nipple, then the FPR needs to be replaced.

I wouldn't throw a FPR at the car unless it failed the diagnostic steps outlined above.

If the engine is in fact flooding, press and hold the accelerator to the floor while cranking as doing that will put it in "clear flood mode" which shuts off the injectors so no additional fuel will enter the combustion chamber.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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so you have gas coming out of the vacuum nipple of the regulator? If so then yes replace it. fairly easy job when done correctly.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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If you put "block seal" into the coolant, then when you get it running you might consider having the car's cooling system reverse-flushed and put fresh coolant in it. No hurry. But nothing should be in the coolant of an aluminum engine except water, anti-freeze, and, in some, a small amount of sealant for seeps around the hose clamps and such.

"Block sealant" could patch an all-iron engine with minor head leakage in some cases.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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We'll I no gas was draining into the throstle body cause if u pull off the vacume hose gas is leaking out of it that's how I had the first fire so I think it really needs a fpr hell they can't be that much huh?

There was an engine compartment fire? That would have been nice to know in the diagnostic process....

Based on your description, I'd say the FPR is bad.

What do you mean by, "We'll no gas was draining into the throstle body"???

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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The vacuum line that goes from the fpr to the throtal body I'm sorry it's were map sensor is it was leaking out the vacuum line into the what every that is its hooked to and when I hit the key it backed fired and boom it didn't eve burn a wire I had a fire ext close by got lucky I priced the part today it's 45$for that little thing.

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The MAP sensor has nothing to do with fuel - did you mean the FPR? I'm sorry but your posts are very confusing to follow in attempt to help you get your car fixed.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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