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00 Seville SLS runs hot after 1 hour


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Good Day,

Just had a friend call me after he purchased a 2000 Seville SLS that showing only one code. The current code was pcm p1002, and the car ran hot after 1 hour of driving. He pulled over waited a few minutes, then all was fine but it still ran hot. He replaced the water pump, thermostat, flushed coolant and new radiator cap. Still ran hot. After reading a post I will tell him about disconnecting the overflow tube. He then decided to call the dealership who serviced the car in Jun by the sticker in the window only to be notified that it has a blown head gasket. I told him the seller may have put some blue devil in the system and when it was flushed it could have been removed.

Current code p1002

History codes

IRC 6327

u1003

u1064

u1000

u1065

u1160

u1016

p1258

Not sure what he paid for it but any suggestions would be helpful

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Its the purge line, and there is a bolt with a hole in it that may be clogged. That seller knew the car had a serious documented problem, and knowingly concealed it during the sale. Causing the buyer to invest hundreds into the car diagnosing! Time for a court date with all receipts the. Hopefully the dealer records can be had. Just go with the registration to the dealer, and show it, and you may get the papers.

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If the headgasket(s) are blown, there is little to do other than fix the car or part it out. Taking the seller to court wouldn't get anywhere since used car sales are as-is.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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If the seller knowingly hides a problem, there is a case. As is would be if an alternator just fails. But if the car was just diagnosed at a dealership with a major problem. If the problem is not fixed, or is temporarily hidden by adding stop leak, this needs to be disclosed during the sale. This sounds like fraud.

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I gave him the information and said he only paid $500 for the car. He also said the another mechanic said no signs of a blown head gasket, but it still over heats. The hoses and engine gets hot as normal, but the reservoir stays cold. Has to be clogged or the thermostat was placed in backwards. The code he had was PCM P0102 which I think points to Throttle body (MAF Sensor). The wires that plug into the air intake was not plugged up, so that could also be the reason for the code.

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$500.00 is a deal - even with bad headgaskets.

Get the kit from Autozone and perform a hydrocarbon test on the coolant - that will indicate the condition of the headgaskets.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I gave him the information and said he only paid $500 for the car. He also said the another mechanic said no signs of a blown head gasket, but it still over heats. The hoses and engine gets hot as normal, but the reservoir stays cold. Has to be clogged or the thermostat was placed in backwards. The code he had was PCM P0102 which I think points to Throttle body (MAF Sensor). The wires that plug into the air intake was not plugged up, so that could also be the reason for the code.

If the reservoir stays cold, the purge line is stopped up.

Clear the blockage and the overheating problem may go away.

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Yep for $500, thats a great price for a blown head gasket car. Price reflects a known problem. I also suspect a blocked surge line or a backwards thermostat or running without antifreeze but instead just 100% water. Bottom and top radiator hose should both get hot. Does the heat work? Possible stop leak was put in and some passages are blocked?

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Both hoses are hot, but the top hose is hotter than the bottom. I thought the thermostat was in backwards at first, but leaning more towards a block hose. The heat blows cold"Ice Cold". The car was sitting for 6 hours after it was started and when the reservoir cap was removed, antifreeze started running out. Engine cold....

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Both hoses are hot, but the top hose is hotter than the bottom. I thought the thermostat was in backwards at first, but leaning more towards a block hose. The heat blows cold"Ice Cold". The car was sitting for 6 hours after it was started and when the reservoir cap was removed, antifreeze started running out. Engine cold....

1-1/2" diameter hoses don't get plugged... Verify the purge line is flowing - if it is not, then remove the restriction (most likely at the water pump crossover area/ - hollow bolt nipple) If the purge line is flowing, then get the kit fromAutozone and test the coolant for exhaust gasses.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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ok...I'll drain some coolant and remove the tank and clean it out...Gonna start this afternoon..Thanks

No need to drain the surge tank - just disconnect the purge line that connectes near the top of the surge tank. It comes from the throttle body area. Place the disconnected line in the neck of the surge tank and start the engine. There should be a steady stream of coolant "peeing" out of the hose. If not, then trace it back to the water pump crossover and remove the hollow bolt and clean the blockage.

If the purge line is flowing, then it is time to test the coolant for combustion gasses with the kit from Autozone. You can't add coolant as new coolant will give a false negative test result.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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WOW, I started by draining the coolant and then pouring it back into a jug threw strainer funnel which clogged up with this white type film. I, then removed the lines from the reservoir which included the over-flow line (purge) and the main line from the bottom. I then removed the reservoir after seeing this whit chalk gook floating around as I added water. The reservoir had 2 inch size blocks (several) that couldn't be removed which I thought was the master mine of the overheating and no heat. Told the owner he needed a new reservoir which he purchased from a local auto store and will deliver in the morning. I disconnected the heater core lines and blew them out with burst of high pressure water and also noticed white gook coming out for a short period of time. I removed and blew out the line from the bottom of the tank and all was fresh. Short story, the reservoir was so clogged up, that it wouldn't let coolant out of the blocked hose. to flow to the T metal line which also runs to the heater core. I also noticed and straight line from left to right of this white film on my driveway after I flushed the entire system. Improper use of BLUE DEVIL.

Thank you for helping out again.

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Installed new thermostat and filled the unit with water. Drove vehicle for a few blocks and temp hand never went pass 1/2 mark (STAYED IN THE MIDDLE). Pulled in the driveway and checked hoses. Top hose hot and the bottom hose still cold and water leaking from the seam of the radiator. The heat was blowing very well, however, the bubbling (boiling type) was still in the new reservoir. All the lines were cleaned and water flowed through. No check engine!

Question?

1. Could a faulty thermostat cause the radiator to crack

2. Could a blowing HG cause the coolant reservoir to boil of bubble?

3. Could the coolant sealant that was washed out prevent the radiator from leaking (cheap fix)?

Vehicle has no smoke, oil clean, and no funny smell. I did remove something from the engine flush either for the radiator or head gasket.

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All you mentioned is normal for a cooling system filled with water. The water is boiling, and the steam is being pressurized into your overflow tank. I would disconnect the lower hose or open the bottom drain, and see if more of the gunk pours out. Then fill it up with 1.5 gallons of straight orange gm approved dexcool. Then and only then. Can you see if your flush was a success. Also keep an eye on that surge line. That stuff might be breaking loose for a while. If the radiator is cracked, no stop leak will repair it, and it might burst without warning.

Yes a blown hg will cause coolant to bubble, and a normal engine will cause water to bubble.

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Thank you for the reply. Yes, the radiator is cracked and new one on hand to be installed. With thermostat working correctly, would that cause the radiator to crack. Could more junk be in the system as well? Flushed the system for a while through each line and with connected after I blew out heater core, If the head was blown I should also be able to tell by pulling the plugs as well.(question) I'm not adding any fix in the bottle to this system, just trying to understand why and how. I guess a pressure test would be a like after I install the radiator?

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After driving a few days on the new radiator, and 50/50 coolant, the free rented radiator gas tester from autozone with the dye (you have to purchase this from autozone) is the true test. If you are going to replace the plugs, i guess you can sneak (if you have one) one of those scope cameras down into the spark plug hole to inspect the top of the cylinder. Usually if there is a head leak, the cylinder top is super steam cleaned, or its covered in a thin white powder. Compared to the others which will be covered in black carbon, you will be able to tell which cylinder has the gasket breach (if any). Whenever the car overheats, it stress tests the entire cooling system. Guess for your car, the radiator was the weakest link, and ruptured. Is that stop leak chalky or like a stone - Just thinking it might plug the purge line bolt, or it might have temporarily plugged a head gasket leak. I guess i am saying you are going to have to watch your temps for a while.

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The stop leak that came out was a white chalk and stone type element. I will pull the plugs in the morning and check each cylinder for the material or super clean as you stated. When I remove and replace the radiator, do you think the pressure will clear from the reservoir and stop the bubbling?I checked each line again this morning before I installed the new reservoir with high pressure water and all flowed good. If i'm missing something please let me know. Just saw the tester on you tube and operation. ....Thanks for your reply

I fixed my 05 deville off this site and trust your value opinion in this and all matter concerning any CADDY!

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I suspect the bubbling was the water quickly turning to steam, or alot of air left in the system. Did you smell exhaust gases in the surge tank? Careful pulling the plugs, i am not sure if they are ok to pull out without replacing. They have a microencapsulated thread compound on them, and also they are tricky and the torque needs to be correct. This can all turn out to be a pulled head bolt, so be prepared for this case also.

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