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Need some advice,

last week I had the 03 SLS in for her 200k fluid and filters change.

Today I changed front stuts and on the drivers side i find fresh grease, (gun, green)(no oil or trans fluid) covering the area at the upper boot seal at the CV joint. it does not look like it was pushed out during service, it looks like as the car was driven the centrifugal force threw the grease out. there is a circle of grease built up around the boot area on the control arm and frame. If i had to guess i would say 15 pumps worth.

Need I be worried, did the tech just overfill the boot?

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Inspect the CV joint boot for cracks - You will probably find a crack in the boot which allowed the grease to be expelled. A CV joint "re-greasing" is not part of a normal service - the axle half shaft needs to come out and the boot removed which wouldn't be done as part of an oil change and chassis lube.

If you caught it in time (before dirt/crud entered the CV joint, the boot can be removed, the CV joint cleaned and re-greased and a new boot can be installed.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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good catch. Definately dont let it go. you do not want to run the axle without grease in it for long as it will surely fail

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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If a boot is on the weak side, putting the car up on a lift where the boot is in the extended down position for some time will surely break or severely compromise further that point that's already weak. Not the fault of the mechanic or shop.

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You are better off buying a good, low mileage used factory half-shaft vs. one of the chain-store garbage with soft boots that tear open in about a year. Aftermarket axles are not held to the same standards as the OE parts are - if you place the units side by side, you'll often see differences between the two.

If you get a boot, make sure it is the molded thermoplastic type that is comparable to the OEM. You will need band clamps and the pliers to crimp them plus a container of the grease to pack into the CV joint.

The half-shaft will pull out of the trans. You might need to use a circular motion while pulling out. There shouldn't be any fluid that leaks out - possibly a few drops but I've never had one leak on me.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I also dont recommend a aftermarket. they tend to be prone to failure, and without warning sometimes.

If possible your best bet would be to buy a repair kit and repair your current one.

Some aftermarket ones are not balanced like the oem ones either.

They can be a pain to pop off the shaft in the trans but not usually too bad.

Should not leak more than a few drops or so

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I haven't had any issues from aftermarket axles from Advanced Auto parts or O'Reillys. I use two prybars and pry against the transmission to disengage it from the transmission, a little tranny fluid might seep out.

Take out the two strut bolts at the knuckle and the tie rod nut and you can sneak the axle out.

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I haven't had any issues from aftermarket axles from Advanced Auto parts or O'Reillys. I use two prybars and pry against the transmission to disengage it from the transmission, a little tranny fluid might seep out.

Take out the two strut bolts at the knuckle and the tie rod nut and you can sneak the axle out.

I had nothing but trouble with the half-shafts from Autozone on a Buick I used to have. The boots were so soft, they tore in less than a year and there was a vibration. After three replacements (lifetime warranty), I asked for my money back and bought a low mileage used unit from the junkyard. The vibration was gone and that was the last time I needed to replace the half-shaft. It's possible the quality of the aftermarket units have improved.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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You need to mark the bolts on the lower strut and return them exactly, they are for alignment. An alternative is to remove the lower ball joint and turn the steering wheel so the tie rod on the side you are working on is extended then you can get the shaft out. You will need a helper to push the A arm down to get the ball joint out. I have done this alone but its a chore.

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