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Daniel Evans

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Daniel Evans last won the day on April 27 2014

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  • Car Model and Year
    2003 SLS
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

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  1. I know enough to do basic repairs. Since the starter is under the manifold how do you test starter cranking voltage and amps without being able to access starter connections? First year in this cold weather my 03 Seville cranks over real slow. Ran scan tool on system and voltage and cold cranking amps at battery and alternator is charging are good. I have 265k miles and one change this year is I no longer drive 150 miles for work every other day. Now I drive 4 miles so I am not getting the miles or getting the motor up to temperatures for prolonged periods much.
  2. I have a new one. I have not done a WOT in some time and my 03 SLS started really rattling on start ups after sitting for several days. So I took it out today found open road and manually shifted down to second and pulled her up and when I hit 5800 it shifted into third gear. I was manually in second but the car shifted itself. Maybe in WOT exercises prior I never hit 5800 but I tried it several more times and each time it shifted when I hit 5800. One other note, once the car slowed down to 50ish and the RPM went below 2000 it down shifted back into second. Is this a RPM limiter, and normal?
  3. Getting ready to change out fuel pump. Looks pretty straight forward so only one question. To eliminate the fuel pressure in the line pull the fuse and start the car till it stalls? Any suggestions on replacement. Some are more expensive then others, are some better? Mine is 14 years old and the gauge started sticking a year ago so instead of pulling and fixing the float I figured it was time to replace the whole unit.
  4. Thanks for the info. pulling the 20 Amp MR CVRTD did the trick. I checked the connections on what I assume is the ELC module mounted to the lower control arm on the left rear and it looks ok. do some more digging.
  5. woke up this morning to a dead battery. Found the air pump for rear suspension was staying on. Pull the relay so it would not drain the battery and released the air in shocks (all the way up). Bad sensor? Bad relay?
  6. Question, When I drive down to less than 2-3 gallons left in the tank the gauge starts moving upwards till it hits about 3/4 of tank. The computer monitor works fine and is always within a .2 gallon when I fill up. Not sure if this is a symptom of something to come.
  7. I too went through the P0741 after a tran flush. Which I have been told in the future not to do by a reputable Cadillac mechanic. In my situation the torque convertor started going out and I did not react, or the transmission shop did not react and it cost me not only a new convertor but a transmission replacement. maybe you can catch it before the guts in the convertor destroy the transmission internals. I am pretty in tune to my car and when the code would come up I could feel a slight hesitation in power. Good luck.
  8. question, i do a lot of dark highway miles and am considering spending the extra money and put zenon lamps in my 2003 SLS. any feed back appreciated. will i need additional resistor or capacitor to work? any brand stand out for quality?
  9. Love my 03. transmission change at 126k, put in second transmission at 201k (faulty convertor) will have 210k this week. I have put in AIR pump, air compressor and rear shocks. front struts and springs. repaired leak in crossover tube, does burn oil as expected, minor oil leaks bottom end. do brakes about every 30k, just did cat convertor. still rides great, easy to drive, great in snow. seriously considering having barczy rebuild motor this summer for another 200k. Words of warning, every now and then you have to drive her hard, Northstars don't like being babied.
  10. thanks for the info. i had no codes, (yet) but when i accelerated I could tell i was losing power. the shift points were erratic at best. at first i thought it was a vacuum leak but by feathering the accelerator i could get the car up to speed. After letting the car sit i drove it to the trans shop that did the replacement with no problems and they told me the convertor was slipping. they are inspecting the transmission now to see if further damage occurred. I asked the same question why a convertor with 78k would go bad and he said they see it all the time on this style of convertor.
  11. long story short, TCC solenoid replaced under warranty 89k. failed again because of the oil seal at 129k replace trans and convertor convertor started slipping at 205k, shop is telling me this is common with this style of convertor. I only drove it 3 miles when it started slipping, no service lights, drove to the shop 6 miles and had no issues. How are these convertors different? and why did it go out so quick? being tore apart now to inspect for trans damage, what are the odds? and what would you do?
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