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Project: 1939 Jaguar SS100 Replica Classic Roadsters, LTD. "Duke"


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At a certain point you realize you prefer your health to paying someone to do this job. After several events that any of which could have been disastrous and 4 days at it(?)

I have learned that springs and I prefer a professional touch. Now have to sort out whether it is going back on a trailer or I can get someone to come here and R&R

I know "HOW" to do almost anything to a car or truck but some thing I am willing to let someone that has more knowledge and better specialty tools, do it for me.

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I do recall that the greatest danger of serious, perhaps permanent, injury in my dad's suspension line of business was working with compressed coil springs. The amount of energy in a compressed coil spring is truly dangerous, and is comparable to that of 10 mg of TNT (MathCAD spreadsheet on request), about what would be required to send a 1-lb hand out in the street at 25 mph. This is second only to the danger of working under a car with improperly placed jack stands, which is why my dad's shop used a drive-on pit rather than a rack or any jack strategy for all under-car work that did not involve removal of a wheel. In addition, he approved specific people to do any work with any serious hazard, such as placing jack stands for brake work or driving onto the pit for undercar work. He never had a serious injury in his shop.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Put on a new clean 2.5" air filter housing and filter and ran the engine to validate while I try to figure out a spring mechanic.

Discovered a new fuel spray from the carb fuel line clamp; dried, repaired. The fuel pump seems fine lol.

Glad it happened while I was looking at the area anyway!

Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black

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Yes, it is starting right away now, just can't go anywhere with the front end partially disassembled.

Justin Edwards from Edwards Mechanical is on the way over Sunday afternoon to install the springs.

I am still stacking up parts that need to go to Wylie Vintage Garage when I can get in there -- the rear drum brake re-build, the brake master cylinder replacement, etc.

I have been corresponding with a local Toyota Tuner on a staged plan for the engine tune-up. A 2nd 3TC rebuilt engine would be $895, and then new hi-compression

pistons, a performance cam, port and polish the heads, stainless steel valves and ...

But first thing is get the suspension repaired. So front springs, then see if I can get the Spring shop to look at it, or order custom leaf springs for Wylie Vintage to

put on.

Bruce

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Yes, it is starting right away now, just can't go anywhere with the front end partially disassembled.

Justin Edwards from Edwards Mechanical is on the way over Sunday afternoon to install the springs.

I am still stacking up parts that need to go to Wylie Vintage Garage when I can get in there -- the rear drum brake re-build, the brake master cylinder replacement, etc.

I have been corresponding with a local Toyota Tuner on a staged plan for the engine tune-up. A 2nd 3TC rebuilt engine would be $895, and then new hi-compression

pistons, a performance cam, port and polish the heads, stainless steel valves and ...

But first thing is get the suspension repaired. So front springs, then see if I can get the Spring shop to look at it, or order custom leaf springs for Wylie Vintage to

put on.

Sounds like a good plan... :)

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Correct 2.5" filter and housing arrived and installed. The 'hot ticket' for this engine is dual Weber 45DCOE side drafts but not certain they will fit the space.

Bruce

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The 45 DCOE setup should come with its own manifold, and what makes that setup so special is that it turns the intake into a tuned set of runners with the carbuetor as two velocity stacks. The key to all this working as it should is keeping everything short. With the manifold change, the carburetor will shift toward the engine and it just may fit. You do want some room at the horns on the ends of the stack, which, for a street setup, will be in a plenum chamber surrounded by the air cleaner. I would measure everything before I ruled out the 45 DCOE setup.

Then, there's the possibility of adding a side-scoop to accommodate an air cleaner, sort of like a side power hump.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I am thinking sidescoop if needed too. With timing, headers, DCOE racing carbs we might get to 95 hp! Lol

There was also a 3TC-EU Japanese market with EFI that is rare but might be same price-ish as new 45DCOE's ($1400)

Edwards Mechanical called and they are enroute, so please everyone think simple coil spring install!

Bruce

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Nice visit with Justin Edwards from Edwards Mechanical on his house call today. We could not put the springs in because the lower control arm bolt is 'sprung' -- on examination it is not a uniform circumference along its length, which means it has stretched or warped and is no longer of a known strength or durability. Justin will source some new bolts Monday, and determine if a local shop can put new bushings in the lower control arms. If they can we'll go ahead and do that this week; if not we'll live with the bushings until resolved.

Summary:

Justin,

Thank you for coming by to replace the front coil springs on the Jaguar Replica. Although
we were delayed in needing a new lower control arm bolt from the store on Monday, I am
excited about getting your assistance with the restoration.

I understand you will

  • source 2 new lower control arm bolts, and
  • research to determine if we can rapidly get the lower control arm bushing pressed.
  • If we can, you will come take the lower control arms off and take them for new bushings.
  • If we can't you will come and put the new springs in with new bolts and old bushings
    until we can resolve.
We discussed doing Energy Suspension bushing replacements for all the list of maintenance
items (see today's list below).

Our goal is to keep the 39 Jaguar Replica in working condition as we do various
improvements, upkeep, and restorations.

I have tried to include more info below to assist in sourcing / researching. Please let me know
if you have specific questions. So far the "79 Pinto" has been spot on for front suspension issues.

Roadster background

The Roadster was made by Classic Roadsters, Ltd as the "Duke" model. From the factory
they came with the 2.3L Mustang II 4, or as a $995 option the 98hp 2.8L V6 Cologne.

The chassis, body, interior, and wheels were provided in the kit. The user added engine,
transmission. The front brakes, springs appear to be Pinto (I have used 79 for reference).
I am betting the rear drum brakes also Pinto. Surprised the rear leaf springs not Pinto, but
they are same width, same A, only 6" shorter B.

The engine in my Roadster is a 81 3TC 1.8L inline 4. It has a 5-finger intake manifold with
a new 32/36 Weber carb mounted. It has log manifold (headers on the way) connected to
a 2.5" exhaust back through a borla muffler. It has been to Arizona, Kentucky, Arkansas,
and now Texas.

Today's list of things you noted on the front suspension:
  1. Tie rod ends inner and outer
  2. Ball joints
  3. Control arm bushings
  4. Stabilizer bar bushings and links
  5. Stabilizer bracket bolts - cut off
  6. New lower control arm bolt x2
  7. Shock mtg bolt left okay
  8. Rear control arm bushings (angle arm bushing)
  9. Toyota engine cross-member?
  10. Energy suspension control arm bushings pn 4-3130R (red)
  11. study welds to see if we will need to redo them

My plans by stage:

Roadster Stage 1 is suspension work
to restore ride height, correct twist under
acceleration, and improve ride. The factory ride height was 6"; current is 3.5".
  • replace front coil springs (in hand)
  • rebuild / restore front suspension -- see list
  • remove rear leaf spacers
  • rebuild / restore rear leaf spring suspension
  • Maintenance: brakes, cooling system after storage.
  • Rear leafs are 2.5" wide. A=19.5 or 19.75, B=23. 3 leafs (may have been 4 orig?),
  • 1/4" thick. Front bushing 1 3/4 and rear bushing 1" on a shackle
  • Rear U-bolts are A=5/16 x 3" width x 7" height
Roadster Stage 2: bolt-ons performance tuning -- goal 95-100 hp
  • Headers
  • Weber dcoe sidedraft carbs, manifold $1,400
  • wideband o2 setup for tuning & jetting $200
  • carb jets $50
Roadster Stage3: (Opt2) R&R powertrain
  • Stage 3a: cam, port & polish heads, pistons, valves - goal 150 hp
  • Stage 3b: swap transmission A40 3 spd auto to T50 5 spd manual
Overall plan:
I plan to restore the Roadster and enjoy it as a hobby car.
We think it might weigh 2,800 lbs. Our target is 150 hp to
provide performance similar to the 39 Jaguar SS100.

Thread on Caddyinfo thread about the 39 Jaguar Replica

Photo albums on google+:
1939 Jaguar Replica replacing front springs & shocks
1939 Jaguar Replica new Exhaust

Bruce

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Delay until Wednesday for parts and mechanic schedule for installing the front coil springs.

We ran the engine for a bit Sunday and it was declared the smoothest running Toyota 4, with no characteristic valve clatter.

I went by Hubcap Homer's today and got a very very rusty version of the wheel covers on the SS-100. I am hoping I can remove the spoke piece and re-use where my spoke piece was lost on left rear wheel. Due to the overall condition of the new one Homer was kind enough to gift it to me. Capital fellow, and a fun place to visit with stacks of hubcaps.

Bruce

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If you could give a good description of the hub cap, I and others can look locally for examples that you can use for spares and parts.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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The hubcaps are 14" universal wire wheel hubcaps as one might have bought at general department or auto stores in 1980s.

They are marked "Special Edition" in the center cap, and have a silver colored metal wheel cover behind a plastic wire basket.

The wire basket bolts on to the metal wheel cover, which presses on to the Ford 14" wheels.

IMG_0858.JPG

Differentiating characteristics are the center hub shape, the depth and number of the spokes, and the presence of the

silver backing cover to hide the black wheels below.

Eventually I would prefer to replace the wheels and wheel covers with appropriate wheels. However, the actual

SS100 used 72 spoke wire wheels and I am un-excited about going to a traditional tube/wire wheel setup.

Bruce

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We're having new upper/lower control arms with bushings and ball joints from Speedway

9103431_L.jpg

Also new tie rod ends, stabilizer bar bushings, stabilizer bar end links, tie rod bushings, and stabilizer strut bushings

Re-install of the front suspension rescheduled for Friday afternoon.

Bruce

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Edwards Mechanical coming tomorrow to install a new front suspension (basically).

IMG_1045.JPG

IMG_1047.JPG

Meanwhile, the stainless headers arrived for the 3TC inline 4 in the SS100

Bruce

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IMG_1042.JPG

The 1939 Jaguar SS100 Replica has some general store type of 2-piece plastic wire wheel wheel covers on it. I lost one of the plastic wire baskets along the way before I studied the zen of how the wheel caps were held together and attached to the wheel.

Hubcap Homer had one sad, rusted wheel cover to match far in the back of his timeless, fun-to-visit shop. He was kind enough to GIVE it to me. It is not in perfect shape, but looks much better than the one that is missing.

Ebay store: http://stores.ebay.com/HUBCAP-HOMERS-888-4-A-WHEEL

I'll get some reflective paint and touch up the one spot on them and mark it done for now.

I would like to get real wire wheels for the SS100, but there appear to be several disadvantages in terms of weight, aero, and attention needed, and I have many other things to sort out in the mean time.

IMG_1044.JPG

Bruce

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The whole point of wire wheels in original designs is weight, and is why they are still used on bicycles and some motorcyles, wheelchairs, and other applications where low weight is worth the extra cost and maintenance. If real wire wheels would weigh more than what you have, then, to me that's a deal-breaker, even for a car that is as much a visual statement as a daily driver. But, since it *is* a visual statement, it's a viable choice to make, although I do believe that aftermarket wire-wheel hub caps are a better solution.

I see scads of wire wheels and wire wheel hub caps on eBay. One excellent set of wire wheels, item 370825650314, is near Philly, and I could pick them up and ship them to you.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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readyforinstall.jpg

Speedway upper and lower pressed steel control arms with bushings and ball joints, new OEM springs, Monroe Shocks,

Moog stabilizer bar end links and new bushings with brackets all ready to go into the 1939 Jaguar SS100 Replica later today.

Basically a front suspension refresh, (then we'll start to think about the rear suspension...)

Bruce

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Thanks Goran. We are still out in the garage hammering away. One side done the other side in disassembly. Tweeting pics but will summarize with a photo essay after.

Bruce

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Pause for a shop run for a grease gun then hopefully winding down soon on the new front suspension install. Left is done, right parts are in but not all bolted together yet. Stabilizer bar is out, and bolts have to be repaired there yet.

Bruce

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Photo album for the front suspension refresh: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/111669618335209044868/albums/5905163312615252993

IMG_1075.JPG

New vs old upper control arm

IMG_1088.JPG

Cutting out a difficult ball joint

IMG_1100.JPG

Getting close to wrapping up the right front

IMG_1102.JPG

from 3.25" before to 6" (stock) ground clearance before creeping over to get it aligned Sat morning.

The front sits higher than the rear, until we can fix the rear suspension.

IMG_1103.JPG

There is a ton of wheel gap -- raised the body to improve ground clearance, so we'll have to address other ways.

Bruce

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You can probably addess the wire wheel and "dead cat space" together by getting 16" wire wheels.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Alignment delayed til Monday -- shop is too busy on Saturdays to take a chance on a hobby car blocking a bay while the techs fiddle with it.

Capturing this for later reference:

91031001_R_18479b29.jpg

Looking at this 5x4.5 bolt pattern rotor which appears to be a direct replacement for the SS100 front rotor, and would allow a swap to

a Truspoke wheel, which is available in 5 on 4.5", 5 on 4.75", 5 on 5 and 5 on 5.5".

16X7TS342012.jpg

Then would need similar solution for the rear hubs, (drum brakes in rear)

$(KGrHqMOKpoE6WtzOGFfBOwSPwsbe!~~60_12.J

Shop manual set off ebay and on the way -- this will help document most of the suspension.

I have the shop manual for the 3TC engine/transmission.

$(KGrHqEOKpwFHcVK2kc5BR5euHE6hQ~~60_57.J

Long-neck distributor to allow easier clearance for future side-draft carbs.

This one was prepared for a build that didn't end up getting used, and is actually

a bit newer than mine as well.

Bruce

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