coolnesss Posted August 3, 2010 Report Share Posted August 3, 2010 I can move the dogbones around by grasping them - laterally within the housing brackets. The bushings don't completely fill the space between the brackets. Does that mean they need to be replaced? THANKS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted August 3, 2010 Report Share Posted August 3, 2010 It doesn't sound good to me. The dogbones are relatively inexpensive and changing them is just about the simplest DIY job there is. Just be sure and make sure that the mounting bolts are tight when you are done. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott y Posted August 3, 2010 Report Share Posted August 3, 2010 I replaced both of them last summer sinc e they were as you described...$40 for the short one and $30 for the longer one??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted August 3, 2010 Report Share Posted August 3, 2010 The correct position is the "just loose" position fore/aft. This is to be adjusted before tightening the mounting bolts to the radiator support. Once the bolts that pass through the rubber portion are tightened to the proper torque spec, there shouldn't be any side/side movement. As long as the rubber is not deteriorated, I wouldn't worry about it. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 4, 2010 Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 I agree with Kevin. My '97 always had a little play. No big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolnesss Posted August 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 The correct position is the "just loose" position fore/aft. This is to be adjusted before tightening the mounting bolts to the radiator support. Once the bolts that pass through the rubber portion are tightened to the proper torque spec, there shouldn't be any side/side movement. . There fore/aft is "just loose". But, there is side to side movement. It seems like the rubber bushings that the bolts pass through are not as wide as the brackets. It doesn't look right, somehow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted August 4, 2010 Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 There fore/aft is "just loose". But, there is side to side movement. It seems like the rubber bushings that the bolts pass through are not as wide as the brackets. It doesn't look right, somehow. How much clearance is there? If it is 1/16" or less, maybe the bolts need to be torqued to specification? Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolnesss Posted August 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 There is probably 1/8 of an inch clearance on either side of each dogbone - but - there are brackets that hold the bolts and the bolts are tight against them - so there's no room to tighten. Here are some fotos where I've pushed the bones to one side and then another - does this look right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolnesss Posted August 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 Another Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolnesss Posted August 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 More Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolnesss Posted August 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 Last THANKS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott y Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 Well, mine are completely snug, no sideways movement whatso ever...if you are as picky as I am replace them,they're not that much to buy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsevillests Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 I replaced the driver side 1 of mine a few months ago. There is about an 1/8 inch gap between the Bracket and the rubber. Also grabbing the dogbone and moving it side to side the dogbone itself will move over top the rubber part about 1/16 of an inch side to side until it hits the rubber edge. The rubber part does not move to touch the sides of the Bracket. Hope this makes sense, hard to explain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 With the car in an open area (nothing within at least 10 feet (3 m) in front of or behind it, raise the hood so that you can see the engine from the driver's seat. Start the car and, with the brakes firmly on so that the car does not move, put the car in D and gently press the accelerator to see if the engine rotates. Repeat in Reverse. If the engine movement is limited to a fraction of an inch (a cm) the dog bones are working. It wouldn't hurt to torque them. They need to be quite tight, a very hard pull from an ordinary 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet socket drive wrench. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 A little play on the sides is normal and won't hurt a thing. Their only purpose it to prevent the engine from torquing too much on throttle up. Those are fine. Relax and enjoy the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolnesss Posted August 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 It passed Jim's test. THANKS!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldo98 Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 I am trying to remove the PAX side dog bone from the engine. The dog bone is firmly set into, what appears to be, teeth on the inside fixed bolt head. The strut is firm in its place and will not move what-so-ever. Does the old strut need to be forced out with a pry bar or what is the proper method to remove ?? Any help is appreciated. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 Use only sockets or wrenches on the bolt head and nut on the other side. The teeth you see on the fixed bolt head are it's built-in lock washer. These bolts need a lot of torque, and they need a lot of muscle to remove too. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldo98 Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 Use only sockets or wrenches on the bolt head and nut on the other side. The teeth you see on the fixed bolt head are it's built-in lock washer. These bolts need a lot of torque, and they need a lot of muscle to remove too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldo98 Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 Thanks for the quick reply. By alot of "muscle to remove", implies force of some type. How much force, and of what type, can I use ?? Is it OK to use a pry bar to pop it out ?? I will put the new one in the freezer over-night if it does not slide right in. I don't want to damage the arms that the strut bolts too. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 Tap the bolt out. Remove the bolt from the other end of the dog-bone too. You can tap the bolt out of the hole. Then you should be able to tap the dog-bone away from the anchors on either end, then work it off of the other end. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldo98 Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Tap the bolt out. Remove the bolt from the other end of the dog-bone too. You can tap the bolt out of the hole. Then you should be able to tap the dog-bone away from the anchors on either end, then work it off of the other end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldo98 Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Hi, After 24 hrs, I added "nut buster" to the lock nut washers again. And then using a large screw driver, applied pressure to the left side of the seated strut, and it moved easily. The new strut fit in smoothly and in a few minutes it was all completed. (Note: I purchased the 2d strut from www.Rockauto.Com, the first one from Auto-zone locally. RockAuto was $6.00 less including shipping. It matched the original to a T.) Thanks for your responses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Be sure that the mounting bolts are really tight. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprucegoose Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 Finally replaced both of my aging dogbones today. Bought aftermarket ones from Orielly's for $46 total. Parts were made in India, but I'm sure will be fine for what they are intended for... Man, was that drivers side one bad! Literally fell apart as i was taking it out! The shorter one was really dry rotted and loose also. I'm sure the heat under the black hood contibuted to the failures here... '09 Cadillac CTS-4 3.6 direct injection, 128 K mi. '15 Chevy Tahoe LTZ, 5.3i V8, 125 K mi '70 Firebird Formula 400, Bored+.04, RAIII heads, M21 4spd., in-process restoration! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.