Tampa caddy 1998 Posted December 28, 2009 Report Share Posted December 28, 2009 I had my wifes 98 Deville out today and at idle the wheel is very hard when turning left and jerkey. It turns ok to the right, I did add a little fluid, any feedback. This last 2-weeks the alternator and starter went out just hit 83K is this what I can expect from now on, maybe time to get it sold! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted December 29, 2009 Report Share Posted December 29, 2009 Slipping serpentine belt? Check out the tensioner. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tampa caddy 1998 Posted December 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2009 Belt is almost new and not making any noise, issue is only when turning left. Anyone ever bleed and flush the rack, if so any hints? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted December 29, 2009 Report Share Posted December 29, 2009 Belt is almost new and not making any noise, issue is only when turning left. Anyone ever bleed and flush the rack, if so any hints? Bleeding: 1. Ignition OFF 2. Raise front wheels off ground 3. Turn the steering wheel full left. 4. Fluid level FULL COLD. Leave the cap OFF 5. Turn steering wheel lock-to -lock 40 times (engine OFF) 6. While turning wheel check the level constantly, add as needed 7. Start engine. Maintain the level. Reinstall the cap. 8. Return the wheels to center. Lower the front wheels to ground. 9. Keep engine running for two minutes. 10. Turn the steering wheel in both directions to see how it works. I got rid of old fluid by disconnecting one of return lines and running the engine for a while. You need an assistant to turn the engine off as soon as the fluid is gone. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted December 29, 2009 Report Share Posted December 29, 2009 Belt is almost new and not making any noise, issue is only when turning left. Anyone ever bleed and flush the rack, if so any hints? Worn belt tensioner: If the tensioner is worn, it cannot keep the pressure on the belt and the belt slips. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tampa caddy 1998 Posted December 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2009 Fluid has been changed and the problem still there when turning to the left. This is what the manual says: A high internal spool valve or steering gear leakage A sticking or damaged pinion spool valve Insufficient pump pressure A low fluid level Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted December 29, 2009 Report Share Posted December 29, 2009 Fluid has been changed and the problem still there when turning to the left. This is what the manual says: A high internal spool valve or steering gear leakage A sticking or damaged pinion spool valve Insufficient pump pressure A low fluid level Gear leakage is easy to notice by turning the wheels lock to lock. As for the rest, you probably need to see a mechanic. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tampa caddy 1998 Posted December 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2009 I have rebuilt 4 -928 Porsches and a 68 Vett so I can do this job. Seems like it maybe the spool valve but the rack will have to come out to do it ,looks like a fun job. Just don't want to replace the rack if it's not needed so I am asking if anyone had this same issue. http://www.direct.ca/trinity/NHTSA-1998-GM...-compliants.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 Those NHTSA self diagnostic complants are something..seen those before. "I would of died if that oil leak wasn't fixed." I think you need a new rack. Sounds like the spool valve leaking. Most likely cheaper and faster to simply replace the rack rather then repair the spool valve. IF parts are even available.. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 I had my wifes 98 Deville out today and at idle the wheel is very hard when turning left and jerkey. It turns ok to the right, I did add a little fluid, any feedback. This last 2-weeks the alternator and starter went out just hit 83K is this what I can expect from now on, maybe time to get it sold! With a 1998 and 83,000 miles you are going to have repairs. If you dont do the work yourself, you SHOULD sell it rather than begin complaining about it or feel like its a lemon, its routine maintenance with a 10 year old car. Replace the rack we have seen this before, you will need to drop the rear of the carriage slightly to access it, be sure you know how to drop the carriage so you dont damage anything Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 31, 2009 Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 It is probably the rack & pinion but I would still check the belt tensioner - even if it is just to rule it out - insert a 1/2" breaker bar in the tensioner and exercise it to make sure it is free and exerting the proper tension on the belt. Starter failures are rare on the Northstar due to the location - it is clean, cool, and dry. That makes them last far longer than starters in the traditional location next to the hot exhaust manifold and exposed to the elements. My Sevilles have 152,000 and 141,000 miles on the original starters. I usually calculate the cost per month of the repairs for the last 24 months and compare that to the payments on a new car. The repair costs usually pale in comparison to a new car payment - even with a large repair. Say you had a transmission failure and it cost $2200 to rebuild the transmission. That is less than $100 per month over two years. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tampa caddy 1998 Posted December 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 I replaced the rack, a good job but not that bad. It was 3 major repairs in two weeks, this is my wifes car and it's not something I enjoy working on, thats why I am complaining. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 31, 2009 Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 I replaced the rack, a good job but not that bad. It was 3 major repairs in two weeks, this is my wifes car and it's not something I enjoy working on, thats why I am complaining. I hear ya....glad you fixed it Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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