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Front pads replacement question


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Err yea you can.. I'd put a couple 2x4's on top of it or something to prevent it from scratching the car. Oh and use the block on the side, not standing up.

The special tool sure helps, and i'd advise using it, but you can do it with makeshift tools if you have to

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Also do I need that specail tool to compress the piston on the fronts?

You mean C-clamp? You don't NEED to use one, but it helps. If you don't have one, you can use a large screwdriver and use the caliper support as a fulcrum. Install the inboard pad or keep the old one in place. Use the screwdriver, through the hole in the caliper and against the outside of the caliper support, to "pull" the caliper out...thus compressing the piston using the inboard pad against the rotor. Very easy, and no C-clamp needed. If not clear now, it'll be clear once you get in there. As I think about it, I think it would have the added benefit of almost guaranteeing you get the piston straight in the bore and don't wedge it or screw up the seal. Just keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder so you don't lose much (or any) while you do this. If the fluid level approaches the top of the reservoir, and you still have some distance to go on the caliper still, syphon some fluid out to prevent spillage.

My Nissan truck has dual-piston front calipers, so short of using 2 C-clamps, this is the only way to do the job. That's how the service manual for it recommends you do the job.

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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If you are talking about a Concrete Masonry Unit (the hollow block type), I would advise against it. The weight of the car can easily shatter one. When it breaks it will be sudden and could easily hurt or kill you.

You would be much safer just blocking with wood.

-George

Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................

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use the block on the side, not standing up.

Yes, and make sure the holes (voids) in the block are vertical rather than horizontal. Concrete has excellent compressive strength, but lacks tensile strength. The 2x4 on top is a good idea...that or anything soft would do (like a couple of thick rags, etc). A good jack stand would definitely be the best idea though.

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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Yes, on the side with the holes vertical or it will shatter when you least expect it. IT has to be used in the way it was designed to be used for a wall which is on the side holes vertical :) 2x4's or plywood makes it easier and gives more room for the car to rest on, but since this could be a potentially dangerous job, although it's just a brake change, if i was going to be working UNDER the car at all, jackstands are only $20-30 each and well worth it not to lose a leg over or something. These cars are reallllll heavy :> (not quite as a 68 sedan deville, but still)

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I used to have a freind that used a concrete block all the time. He was poor, not real well educated, but would do anything for you, like change your brake pads for $10.00. One hell of a nice guy. When the car fell on him it broke his back and crushed his chest. His sister found him about an hour later.

Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed.

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do I need that specail tool to compress the piston on the fronts?

I believe the "special tool" you are talking about is a "brake cube". No, you don't need it for the fronts. The front piston is simply compressed. C-clamp is the easiest. The rear piston screws in and that's where the brake cube comes in handy.

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Ya.. Like I said, if i'm under the car, it better be on a flat (AND LEVEL) surface and either up on jackstands or a lift :) Period.

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Yup larry hit it on the head. Brake cube. Ok just wondering. I finally get my car back from the body shop tomorrow (parents wrecked it :( ...Good thing is that the body shop is going to patch up my rust spot as best as they can and they also fixed the cig burn in my seat! Nice. Ive got a TO83 code and ABS light and brake light t\c off. Im hoping a new set of pads will remedy the prob. Also gonna need to take a look at the lines and such just to be safe...not sure how i lost so much fluid. Cant just be low pads can it?

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You would be better off taking a chance on not replacing the brakes than to use a concrete block. At least if you hit something w/no brakes you got an airbag. The block breaks and you got Big trouble. Jack stands are cheap. The greater wieght they are rated for the wider the base and therefore more stable. Even the cheapest ones are better than a block. Please dont use blocks.

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A GOOD FRIEND OF mine who was a trumpet player in the US AIR FORCE BAND decided one weekend to change his frount brake pads. AT the moment he reached around to loosed the back caliper bolts with a ratchet, the cinder block with the holes vertical , and a wood block on top blew out. HE HAS NEVER PLAYED A NOTE AGAIN , WHEN THE CAR fell it traped his hand and he lost three fingers. IF a block is dropped at some time in its life it could be cracked on the inside so small you could not see it . Remember walls are a built with rows of blocks staggered so you do not have two stacked verticle with end seams directly in line. IT IS NOT WORTH THE RISK. X BLOCK LAYER

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Balls,

....just DO NOT DO THAT! a concret block (properly oriented) cracked right under my car when I was out...

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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It should be a fairly easy job for you to do. However I would not use cement blocks of any kind..Heck I would trust a good floor jack over a cement block or even the car jack on a with a jack stand. A jack stand would be your best bet to hold the car They are fairly cheap about $20 bucks a set on sale. If you look hard most major discount stores usually have they on sale.. I have seen a few cars fall off jacks and cement blocks crushed If I was doing a brake job I would do one wheel at a time unless you have the rite jacks and stands to support the car It's easier to do 1 wheel at a time so if you screw up you have the other wheel to look at as an example how to put it back together.When I do a brake job I usually just use a floor jackdoing 1 wheel at a time but I am always thinking and careful if it come down I'm not where it could hurt me No legs or feet or arms under the wheel or body that could get me I just stick my arms in the wheel well and I'm careful.I have even had cars fall off jack stands in the past so caution is key..

Good Luck

Jim

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Well the problem here is that I am a broke college kids who needs to take a look at his brakes today or tomorrow. What I was planning on doing is jacking the car up just as much as necessary and then sliding the block under the car with a piece of wood on top. That was if the car falls off of the jack it will fall less than a half inch. That would probably crush the block but it may give me a seconf to get my hand out of the way. It may not be the smartest thing ive ever tried but I just dont have the money. I wish I did

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Ask around. One of your friends has the proper jacks and stands.

You should never use the car's own jack to lift it for mechanical work. It simply isn't robust enough to trust. It may be enough to change a tire but you don't want any body part under a car raised by the factory jack. To check the thickness of the pads you are going to stick your head into the wheel well of at least very close.

I believe the inadvisability of using concrete blocks has been well stated but I want to point out I have had two factory jacks collapse over the years. The are not suitable for repeated use and the screw mechanism will strip causing collapse.

I would be very supprised if one of your friends doesn't have the proper equipment.

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FLAMINGGOATBALLS,

I saw Mack Jackstands @ Walmart for ~$8.88 per Pair! You HAVE TO Agree your hand, foot, or HEAD is worth skipping a rented movie, or meal @ MickeyD's, or FOUR GALLONS OF GAS. Think about it! PLEASE! I just lost a friend 3 months ago who was replacing a rear brake line, had his wife come out to pump the pedal...she ran in to catch the phone...came out to find my former '94 Town Car on his head...He was 28 years old...what a needless loss of life for his two kids...iF ONLY HE'D HAVE BORROWED MY STANDS...think about it...PLEASE...listen, send me your address and I'll send you the money for the jackstands...what do you say....I know money is tight right now, but your health is worth every penny it takes to keep it at your age... we don't want to miss someone who goes by FLAMING GOAT BALLS! ;)

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I was thinking the exact thing as CadiKing. $10-$20 is not worth losing any part of your body or even your life.

Good luck on your decision!

Ken

1994 STS Pearl White 260,000 KM (163,000 miles)

<img src="http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v137/caesar/caddycaesar.jpg" border="0" class="linked-sig-image" />

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OK ok ok I think CadiKings generous offer finally did it. I cant take anybody money but I do know of a friend whos dad has stands. Im sure I can at least do my brakes over there. He back from school this weekend so im sure i can get a hold of him. Hard part will be getting a hold of my car! Its 1:36 on a fri and im still waiting to hear from the body shop about my car. They ordered the wrong fender something or other so.... I am supposed to have it back today they said. I just got off the phone with the,. Of course they said that last wednesday.

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