MAC Posted October 15, 2009 Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 I spent almost $100 for an oil change because I couldn't remove the oil pan plug. I even applied some heat and it still wouldn't budge. I had 4% oil life left, so I brought it to a dealership and had them deal with it. They replaced it with a plug I bought. Is this a common problem? The last time the oil was changed was at a Cadillac dealership before I bought the STS. Luckily no stripped threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted October 15, 2009 Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 Usually that means whoever tightened it the last time overtorqued it. Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 15, 2009 Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 Retorque it now, so you have no problems later, this is very odd, does the bolt have a seal in it? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 15, 2009 Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 Someone put it back on the a 1000 ft/lb impact wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 Someone put it back on the a 1000 ft/lb impact wrench. 1000 ft/lb?! I think you're probably right. The new plug has a rubber seal so that should help keep it from seizing again. I had just bought 10 qts. of Mobile1 0W-30 and an extended life filter for $50 and thought I had a good plan to take care of the oil change over the weekend. Unfortunately, the plug wouldn't budge. I'll run what the dealership put in and put the Mobil1 in next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 Someone put it back on the a 1000 ft/lb impact wrench. 1000 ft/lb?! I think you're probably right. The new plug has a rubber seal so that should help keep it from seizing again. That gasket can be damaged easily if the plug is overtorqued. If it happens you will see drops of motor oil on the ground right under the plug. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 I was surprised that the factory procedure actually calls for removal and replacement of the oil plug gasket with each oil change. That's not something I do when I change the oil. Install the oil pan drain plug and NEW O-ring seal. Tighten the oil pan drain plug to 20 N·m (15 lb ft). Also, for the CTS 3.6L with the oil filter cartridge, the oil filter cap threads are supposed to be lubricated with engine oil: Lubrication must be applied to the threads of the oil filter cap prior to installation. Failure to lubricate the oil filter cap threads can hinder later removal and cause possible oil filter cap damage. Lubricate the oil filter cap threads with clean engine oil. Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtone Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 It's only common because so many so called mechanics feel the need to muscle the plug. I just give it a twist with my wrist to tighten it with a short combination wrench, and in over 30 years of changing oil I never had a plug come loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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