germany17@msn.com Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I HAVE BEEN READING ALL THE POSTS REGARDING MY ISSUE. THEY ALL SOUNDED REAL CLOSE TO MINE. MY FANS DO WORK, I HAVE SERCULATION, AND WE DID A PRESSURE TEST FOR THE HEAD GASKET. SO, WHY AM I STILL OVERHEATING??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyG Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 But did you check the resrvoir for exhaust gasses? That's the true test, since the Northstar fails in such a way that it forces combustion products into the coolant, and NOT the other way around, the leak can be SO TINY, that most engines can pass a pressure test, and still have a leaking head gasket. If air or combustion products are forced into and accumulate in the cooling system, and they cannot be purged from the system quickly and fully on each run, the engine will eventually overheat. That's the failure mode I've seen time and again from accounts posted on his board. You can get by some of the time, for a while, but eventually it catches up to you. Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
germany17@msn.com Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I HAVE BEEN READING ALL THE POSTS REGARDING MY ISSUE. THEY ALL SOUNDED REAL CLOSE TO MINE. MY FANS DO WORK, I HAVE SERCULATION, AND WE DID A PRESSURE TEST FOR THE HEAD GASKET. SO, WHY AM I STILL OVERHEATING??? HOW DO I CHECK FOR GASES? SMELL IT?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 1) Please stop typing in caps it = yelling 2) The gas test is done with a test you can purchase at an auto parts store. it's a definative test that costs about $50 for the kit 3) Not sure how you performed the pressure test (was it done on each cylinder with the cylinder at the proper position) I cannot provide details on each, but all have been discussed on this board in detail. Please do a little more searching. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I HAVE BEEN READING ALL THE POSTS REGARDING MY ISSUE. THEY ALL SOUNDED REAL CLOSE TO MINE. MY FANS DO WORK, I HAVE SERCULATION, AND WE DID A PRESSURE TEST FOR THE HEAD GASKET. SO, WHY AM I STILL OVERHEATING??? Have you checked the air purge line? There should be nice flow of coolant when you take it off. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
germany17@msn.com Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I HAVE BEEN READING ALL THE POSTS REGARDING MY ISSUE. THEY ALL SOUNDED REAL CLOSE TO MINE. MY FANS DO WORK, I HAVE SERCULATION, AND WE DID A PRESSURE TEST FOR THE HEAD GASKET. SO, WHY AM I STILL OVERHEATING??? Sorry i was yellin! I think the tentioner is is need of replacement. Could that be it? We did a pressure test on the coolant. And sorry, i dont know what the air purge line is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I HAVE BEEN READING ALL THE POSTS REGARDING MY ISSUE. THEY ALL SOUNDED REAL CLOSE TO MINE. MY FANS DO WORK, I HAVE SERCULATION, AND WE DID A PRESSURE TEST FOR THE HEAD GASKET. SO, WHY AM I STILL OVERHEATING??? We did a pressure test on the coolant. And sorry, i dont know what the air purge line is. Read this up: http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...0line&st=15 The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hacarman Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 But did you check the resrvoir for exhaust gasses? That's the true test, since the Northstar fails in such a way that it forces combustion products into the coolant, and NOT the other way around, the leak can be SO TINY, that most engines can pass a pressure test, and still have a leaking head gasket. If air or combustion products are forced into and accumulate in the cooling system, and they cannot be purged from the system quickly and fully on each run, the engine will eventually overheat. That's the failure mode I've seen time and again from accounts posted on his board. You can get by some of the time, for a while, but eventually it catches up to you. It there a product tat can repair the problem. ?? r do you think its time for head gaskets. If so how much should it cost to repair?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 But did you check the resrvoir for exhaust gasses? That's the true test, since the Northstar fails in such a way that it forces combustion products into the coolant, and NOT the other way around, the leak can be SO TINY, that most engines can pass a pressure test, and still have a leaking head gasket. If air or combustion products are forced into and accumulate in the cooling system, and they cannot be purged from the system quickly and fully on each run, the engine will eventually overheat. That's the failure mode I've seen time and again from accounts posted on his board. You can get by some of the time, for a while, but eventually it catches up to you. It there a product tat can repair the problem. ?? r do you think its time for head gaskets. If so how much should it cost to repair?? No snake oil can fix this. I wouldn't be in a hurry to jump to conclusions & want a HG replacement. In addition to HG, your engine will need a timesert job - totaling around $2,500. if there is reason to suspect the tensioner, (a physical inspection reveals an obvious fault, then I would fix it first). sometimes it is a simple fix (tensioner, purge line, etc.) take this one step at a time, and you will save big $$ again, the $50 exhaust gas test will probably be your cheapest first step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEldo97 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 "the $50 exhaust gas test will probably be your cheapest first step. " I agree. The waterpump is located on the right side of the engine (standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay). As you look into the engine bay you will see, right in front of you, a small belt, tensioner and pulley under a black guard. That is the water pump drive belt, pulley and tensioner; the water pump itself is housed in the aluminum housing. Do a manual check of the belt, pulley and tension to try to ascertain the operational integrity of it - does it look damaged, wornout or not... You're sure you have coolant circulation? Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 But did you check the resrvoir for exhaust gasses? That's the true test, since the Northstar fails in such a way that it forces combustion products into the coolant, and NOT the other way around, the leak can be SO TINY, that most engines can pass a pressure test, and still have a leaking head gasket. If air or combustion products are forced into and accumulate in the cooling system, and they cannot be purged from the system quickly and fully on each run, the engine will eventually overheat. That's the failure mode I've seen time and again from accounts posted on his board. You can get by some of the time, for a while, but eventually it catches up to you. It there a product tat can repair the problem. ?? r do you think its time for head gaskets. If so how much should it cost to repair?? This is your first post, you didnt provide any details of your problem and are assuming head gaskets. There are a whole host of problems that can cause overheating. At the beginning of EVERY summer since I have been here, we get more perceived 'overheating' problems. The important thing to do is to make sure that the cooling system is 'tuned up'. 1) Make sure the system holds pressure, if you smell coolant its not holding pressure, fix all leaks 1) The cooling system can leak pressure from; crossover seals, water pump body seal, heater pipes and associated hoses and clamps, radiator end tanks, coolant tank and associated hoses and clamps and heater core. 2) Flush it every two years and use the cooling supplement, I dont care that GM no longer recommends it, they stopped recommending it for a BAD reason 3) Check the purge line 4) Check the WP Belt 5) Check the operation of the fans 6) Blow out debris from the radiator and AC condenser 7) Change the thermostat 8) Check or replace the radiator cap 9) Make sure the coolant is at least at at 50/50 concentration 10) Check the WP belt tensioner Know the NORMAL operating temp ranges. In the summer highway driving will range between 192 and 212, stop and go will often see 217 to 230, if you see 240 with a GOOD cooling system in hot summer traffic, that is fine. Someone confirm these temps for me. I seem to FEEL that my temps are a little warm, for me to see 222 for any length of time after being in traffic on the highway in 75 degree weather is unusual, but I have pressure leaks from the water pump body seal. However, I have been known for being nervous about temps myself. Members please post what you feel are normal summer temps, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEldo97 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 My '97 Eldorado runs right in the middle of the temp. gauge or very slightly to the right side but not off the "N" in the middle. When it sits intraffic on a HOT Tampa Bay day the temp will rise to the point of turning the fans on which will cool things down quickly. The only time I ever had a problem temperature wise was when I blew the headbolts out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 My '97 had a digidash so I was able to read the temps. I ran a consistent 205 (summer) to 213 (Winter). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyG Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 I totally agree with winterset and BBF on this. BBF's list is very concise and in the correct order. However, you did finally give us another clue with the tensioner comment, which you need to follow up on immediately! The Water Pump belt tensioner controls the tension of a very small (short) belt with very little or no stretch. Therefore it can "freeze" into one spot and eventually, with normal belt wear, begin to slip. Your fix may be as simple as exercising the belt tensioner, and lubricating it with a penetrant solvent like WD40! Other than that, follow the advice posted, and you wil eventually determine if you need to replace the HG's or not. One word of caution, resist the urge to overheat the engine in any way until you determine the cause of the elevated temps. Overheating to the point of boiling the RAD almost certainly will lead to more costly repair, regadless of the cause! Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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